mcpwilk

Looking very good so far. I built my cutter with a clinker hull out of basswood (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/gallery/album/668-hm-cutter-andromeda/). Personally I find clinker building easier than carvel. Good luck with your build.

Happy modelling,

Mike

Will you clinker build the hull like cutters of the period?

Mike

Very nicely done. If you soak the flag in water it will hang better, rather than stick out.

Mike

I use thin black paper between the planks to give the tarred oakum effect.

Mike

Superbly done so far.

Mike

Any more progress?

Mike

Progressing well. Good to see you getting into the clinker planking.

Mike

Beautiful to date. I find a clinker hull easier to plank than a carvel one....

Mike

Superb sea scape.

Mike

"Well then here's for you in Australia. "

Why the Kiwi flag, not the Aussie one?!

Mike

"It's easy for Chuck with his new laser cutter"

Superb work so far. I have convential modeller's bench and fret saws, but would like to get my hands on a laser cutter!

Mike

Good luck with this one. I find clinker planking easier than carvel, so hopefully will you.

Happy New Year,

Mike

Awe inspiring - a true work of art.

Happy New Year,

Mike

A very nice build. She should fly a red ensign rather than a Union Flag at the stern (see GB03, http://www.becc.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d31.html).Flags can be made to hang more naturally if you soak them in water and bend them to the required shape. Once dry they should keep the natural hang of the flag.

Happy New Year,

Mike

A very nice looking model. It is very easy to make things overscale. I would suggest that you use much finer thread for the rigging in future. Some modellers put a scale figure on their models at different stages during the build. I think an imaginary figure is also a good idea when it comes to size of ribs, tiller, oar handles, 'ropes' etc.

happy modelling,

Mike

WOW!!!

Just remember when you are working out what thickness of wood to use that you will be rubbing down the hull and deck to get a smooth finish and that the original planks would have been produced with an adze and not machined. The width of the planks is more critical for scale, and this is down to the modeller if sheet wood is bought.

I'm interested that your cutter is carvel built, I've always found clinker easier....

Mike

That mizzen gaff ought to be at a higher angle.

Mike

Interesting that you chose a carvel hull, I prefer clinker..... I also display my finished boats/ships in a glass case mounted over a mirror, and I would agree that a natural wood finish shows off the workmanship better than a painted one.

Mike

How's progress?

Mike

Beautifully done. I always mount my ships/boats over a mirror in their cases.

Mike

Staggeringly superb.

Mike

You have been doing this beautifully. I have the same kit and am also hoping to use wood for the decks. However you have the shift of butts only one plank apart on your decks. They shoud be three or four planks apart on Victory. I think this is clearly shown in the Anatomy of the Ship volume of the Victory and on http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/thread2959-Notes--False-Butts-on-a-Planking-.html

Best wishes,

Mike

A superb build. However surely the top one or two rows of copper plating should be full width, running parallel to the waterline, and only tapered in below this?

Mike

Beautifully modelled and finished.

Mike