6ohiocav

Gents,
 
Thanks guys for setting me straight. You are all right, and I was wrong and appreciate the clarification. I have removed my photo from this post so as not to perpetuate the error for future viewers.
 
I apologize to MarkJay for sending you in a wrong direction.
 
Frankie, your reference to the Niagara plans points us to the upper shrouds, and I followed those directions completely. The upper shrouds have an even number of shrouds, and I created the Burton Pendant separately as set forth in your highlighted section of the plan (although I did not use a cont splice - way to difficult at this scale and above my pay grade).
 
My confusion however came from the lower shrouds, and the fact that there is an odd number of shroud lines. There is no diagram in my plans that tells us landlubbers what to do with the odd line, and the large rigging sheet creates the illusion that the odd shroud line is "tipped off" with the burton pendant. I posted a question in my log about the lower pendant before I chose the method I did. It is a reasonable conclusion to a "modeler." However, after considering your note, and Druxey's, and thinking about it, It makes perfect sense that this was wrong for a real ship, which is what I am realistically trying to recreate.
 
I can add another obscure bit of information in my growing bag of 19th Century shipwright knowledge.

Dave,
 
Would you mind sharing with me the source of your plans for your this exciting build? Are they available for purchase to others with scratch built Constitution fever?

Dave,
 
Would you mind sharing with me the source of your plans for your this exciting build? Are they available for purchase to others with scratch built Constitution fever?

Dave,
 
Would you mind sharing with me the source of your plans for your this exciting build? Are they available for purchase to others with scratch built Constitution fever?

Hey there Mark,
 
Your inquiry was very timely for me.  I just assembled the Burton Pendants required on the Niagara last evening and posted photos on my log.  There are an odd number of shroud lines on the Niagara.  The plans call for the forward shroud line to be lashed with a Burton Pendant, it being the first line to be placed over the mast head.  I served the entire shroud and with a whipping, created a simple thimble.
 
Not sure if this is the correct method, but it is what is called for in my less than clear plans. 
 
Hope this helps.

MAIN MAST SHROUDS, MAIN STAY AND MAIN PREVENTER STAY, COURSE HARNESS
 
I spent the evening serving the forward main mast shrouds, main and preventer stays, and assembling the course yard harness.  All of these have to be placed over the main mast top before attaching the cap.
 
I used a served .035 rope for the forward shroud and tied a burton pendant on the end per the plans. I also used a .035 served rope for and preventer stay and a served .045 rope for the main stay. On those, I turned the mouse on my wood lathe using the same process I use for the bullseyes. I then glue them to my rope and use the serving line to cover them.  I have found that it helps if you put a small amount of CA glue around the mouse to hold the serving line from slipping off.
 
With these done, I can place them over the mast head and attach the top and the cap. As I did with the foremast, I will then work my way up.
 

CATHARPIN
 
One other task on the foremast that I should have done earlier was the installation of the catharpin on the lower shroud. That should have been done as soon as I did the lower shrouds and futtock shrouds. By waiting to do this after more of the rigging had been put in place made this harder than it needed to be.
 
I used a .025 rope and tied 2 small measured pieces, routed through a small blackened ring, on each side of the staves. Once set, I tied the two rings together to create the tension that tightened up the shrouds and futtock shrouds. A very nifty method to keep everything taut.

I sheepishly reenter the water with my fellow Niagara shipwrights.  I have been "lost at sea" for the last three years after my Niagara build (and as I later found my build log) took a raking broadside in a work bench accident causing damage to its stern and keel. More on that later, But I start with a short introduction.
 
I am an amateur woodworker in Northeastern Ohio with a keen interest in military history.  I am a true landsman, with no sailing experience.  I built styrene models as a kid, including Revel's Cutty Sark, and gained an interest in building ship models, albeit in plastic. In the late 80's after graduating from college, and with a misguided motion that I would have plenty of free time, I purchased a POB kit, the La Toulonnaise. My unsuccessful efforts to negotiate the poorly translated, and nearly non-existent instruction manual, coupled with my lack of proper tools and modeling skills, doomed the project from the start. I kept that unfinished kit (I hit a road block at the construction of the stern fillers) for many years.  I now regret that I must have thrown that kit away during one of my many moves and life changes. I sure wish I had it today.
 
In 2011, I rediscovered my interest in wooden ship building after a visit to a tall ships event on Lake Erie where I toured the Niagara. That fall, Model Shipway put the kit on sale, and alas. I found myself back at it. There was one big difference however, While surfing the Model Shipway site, I came upon the link to this Forum. This was a real game changer. I found build logs from expert modelers like Bahama Diver and others that were building the Niagara. While the Model Shipways Niagara has a pretty good instruction manual, the color pictures on this site and the ability to ask stupid questions gave me the confidence to forge ahead.
 
I started my build and the build log in January 2012. I completed the framing and bulwarks (and got past the dreaded stern fillers) by May of 2012. Then disaster! My bench table, an antique drafting table with a swivel top, somehow gave way, and my Niagara in its stern vice, and all of the material, tools and everything you can imagine we carry on our benches, was dumped onto the concrete floor. The fall crushed the stern fillers (of course) and broke off half of the keel.  Surprisingly, there was no other damage, but the mess was extreme. I had just enough energy to clean up the mess, but not enough to continue the build. 
 
Fast forward to today. I was in Boston in December and had the privilege to see the Constitution in dry dock. What an experience. The inspiration of witnessing such a beauty gave me the initiative to take my Niagara out of ordinary and get it back to the shipyard. Of course, I attempted to access my build log, and discovered my ship was not the only thing that took a raking broadside. It was gone by way of the big crash (the administrators need to use live oak to build their hard drives). Since all of my photos were on an old computer that is long gone, I thought the log was a lost cause.
 
I have been hard at work since January.  I fixed the damage, finished the bulwarks, planked the hull and the deck, built the guns and most of the deck furniture, and just about finished the masts and yards.  Here are some photos (forgive the poor quality) of where I am. Nothing is glued down, and is set in place just for the photos.
 
I wasn’t going to post a log, but guilt and finally some luck pushed me otherwise. Over the holiday, I got my camera out for a family picnic and lo and behold, the shots of my build log were still on the camera disc. Since I spend so much time getting tips and help from others logs, I felt compelled to give back. Over the next several weeks, I will be adding the old pictures and recreating the narrative (that is truly gone). And as I go forward, will humbly place myself along side my fellow Niagara builders for the end run.
 

MAIN STAY AND MAIN PREVENTER STAY
Shifting my attention to the main mast, I began work on the lower shrouds and main and preventer stays. Of course, reviewing the plans reminded me that the main stay is attached to a closed heart that is lashed to the fore mast – and I SHOULD HAVE DONE THAT BEFORE I STEPPED THE FOREMAST. The preventer stay is seized to an eye bolt on the forward bit.
 
With the pin rails surrounding the foremast, and running rigging all over the place, lashing a closed heart to the foremast was a challenge.  Here is how I accomplished this.  AGAIN, this should have been done while working on the foremast.
 
1.      I started with a .045 rope that I served. I stropped it around the closed heart and created two eye splices, per the plans.
 
2.      I then took a long length of .035 unserved rope and seized the end to one of the eye splices with a standard whipping.
 
3.      Here is the tough part. I then positioned the heart around the mast, and ran the .035 rope through the other eyes splice. I choose a long enough strand of rope to allow me to pull the end out away from the ship to reach my spring clamp mounted in my vice.
 
4.      I then tied a standard whipping, keeping the knot loose.
 
5.      I took the rope out of the vice, and carefully, by alternating gentle pulls on both sides of the rope, eventually snugged the lashing up to the mast. Once done, I attached a small drop of CA on the knot, and very carefully cut off the tail.
 
The photos below show this process.
 
The preventer stay was much easier, but again, should have been installed before I stepped the foremast. The plan provides that the preventer stay is wound to a closed heart that is attached to an eyebolt secured in the forward bit. I again started with a served .045 rope. I ran it through a hand twisted eyebolt, then wrapped it around the heart. Because the rope is very thick, I decided that I did not want to lash it to “itself” – making a overlarge and cumbersome knot. I elected to cut the end, and fuse it with a lashing. 
 
I drilled a hole in the bit, applied a drop of CA on the eyebolt and installed the completed assembly.
The photos better describe this process.

Thanks Mike and Mike for stopping in.
 
I am trying to leave a trail for future Niagara builders that will help with the rigging process. No sense having to recreate the wheel each time.

CATHARPIN
 
One other task on the foremast that I should have done earlier was the installation of the catharpin on the lower shroud. That should have been done as soon as I did the lower shrouds and futtock shrouds. By waiting to do this after more of the rigging had been put in place made this harder than it needed to be.
 
I used a .025 rope and tied 2 small measured pieces, routed through a small blackened ring, on each side of the staves. Once set, I tied the two rings together to create the tension that tightened up the shrouds and futtock shrouds. A very nifty method to keep everything taut.

MAIN MAST SHROUDS, MAIN STAY AND MAIN PREVENTER STAY, COURSE HARNESS
 
I spent the evening serving the forward main mast shrouds, main and preventer stays, and assembling the course yard harness.  All of these have to be placed over the main mast top before attaching the cap.
 
I used a served .035 rope for the forward shroud and tied a burton pendant on the end per the plans. I also used a .035 served rope for and preventer stay and a served .045 rope for the main stay. On those, I turned the mouse on my wood lathe using the same process I use for the bullseyes. I then glue them to my rope and use the serving line to cover them.  I have found that it helps if you put a small amount of CA glue around the mouse to hold the serving line from slipping off.
 
With these done, I can place them over the mast head and attach the top and the cap. As I did with the foremast, I will then work my way up.
 

​
LOWER MAIN MAST SHROUDS
 
I worked on preparing the lower shrouds for the main mast.  I have used .035 rope.The ENTIRE forward shroud will be served. For the remaining 4 shroud lines, I only served that portion of the shroud that wrapped around the mast.  As I showed in an earlier post regarding the foremast, that ended up being exactly 2 inches.
 
Here are the shots of those back shroud lines. After serving the 2 inch section, I mount it in the vice and lash 1/2 inch from the ends and cover up the serving ends. The picture explains it better.  This leaves enough space in the loop to go over the end of the mast head.
 
 
 

1.Rope .008, .012, .018, .025, .035, and .045 in black and brown
 
2.5mm and 7mm closed hearts (I have not used any of the 5mm hearts yet)
 
3.3/32, 1/8 and 5/32 single and double blocks.
 
4. Brass hooks
 
5. 7mm wooden cleats
 
I can tell you that I have used a ton of .012 tan rigging. The plans call for nearly all running rigging and lanyards to be of .010 to .014 tan rope, so I have used .012 to do the trick. I strop all blocks with .012 black rope
 
I have also used a lot of the 1/8 blocks, double and single.

MAIN STAY AND MAIN PREVENTER STAY
Shifting my attention to the main mast, I began work on the lower shrouds and main and preventer stays. Of course, reviewing the plans reminded me that the main stay is attached to a closed heart that is lashed to the fore mast – and I SHOULD HAVE DONE THAT BEFORE I STEPPED THE FOREMAST. The preventer stay is seized to an eye bolt on the forward bit.
 
With the pin rails surrounding the foremast, and running rigging all over the place, lashing a closed heart to the foremast was a challenge.  Here is how I accomplished this.  AGAIN, this should have been done while working on the foremast.
 
1.      I started with a .045 rope that I served. I stropped it around the closed heart and created two eye splices, per the plans.
 
2.      I then took a long length of .035 unserved rope and seized the end to one of the eye splices with a standard whipping.
 
3.      Here is the tough part. I then positioned the heart around the mast, and ran the .035 rope through the other eyes splice. I choose a long enough strand of rope to allow me to pull the end out away from the ship to reach my spring clamp mounted in my vice.
 
4.      I then tied a standard whipping, keeping the knot loose.
 
5.      I took the rope out of the vice, and carefully, by alternating gentle pulls on both sides of the rope, eventually snugged the lashing up to the mast. Once done, I attached a small drop of CA on the knot, and very carefully cut off the tail.
 
The photos below show this process.
 
The preventer stay was much easier, but again, should have been installed before I stepped the foremast. The plan provides that the preventer stay is wound to a closed heart that is attached to an eyebolt secured in the forward bit. I again started with a served .045 rope. I ran it through a hand twisted eyebolt, then wrapped it around the heart. Because the rope is very thick, I decided that I did not want to lash it to “itself” – making a overlarge and cumbersome knot. I elected to cut the end, and fuse it with a lashing. 
 
I drilled a hole in the bit, applied a drop of CA on the eyebolt and installed the completed assembly.
The photos better describe this process.

Mike and Pete,
 
No special tools. I use a set of bent end tweezers, small bent needle nose pliers, (for when I need to clamp down on something like a loose end that needs tightening), my portable vice  where I mount a small wooden block with two wire ends used to seat blocks for stropping on one end, and on the other end of the vice, a spring clamp ( I will shoot you a photo when I get back from the office. I call it my stropping and lashing station), and the Syren Serving Machine. I frequently use my hackle vice to keep lines tight when necessary, or when I need to lash deadeyes and bullseyes, as indicated in previous posts.
 
As for rope, all of it is from Chuck Passaro's Syren Company.  You can find a link on this website. All of the size references are to his products..  I also purchased all of the blocks, open and closed hearts, brass hooks and wooden cleats from him. I have been able to mill my own bullseyes.
 
I have probably doubled the cost of the kit with all of the aftermarket parts, but the quality is outstanding, makes the end product look much cleaner and sharp, and therefore in my opinion, worth the cost.
 
We are absolutely getting hammered with a winter storm this weekend in NE Ohio.  It is a good time to work in the shipyard.

MAIN MAST UPPER DEADEYES
Having now done this on the Foremast, I sort of fell into a technique that may be of some help to the family of Niagara builders out there.
 
The Niagara calls for four, upper shroud 3/32” deadeyes, port and starboard, to be seated in the top with a loop underneath to accept the futtock lines and hooks that are tied off to the main shrouds.
Here is how I did mine.
 
I use a .26 gauge wire for the stropping process.  It is the same wire I use for my eyebolts. I also use the same drill bit I use to do holes for the eyebolt.
 
The pictures tell the story.

Hey there Mark,
 
Your inquiry was very timely for me.  I just assembled the Burton Pendants required on the Niagara last evening and posted photos on my log.  There are an odd number of shroud lines on the Niagara.  The plans call for the forward shroud line to be lashed with a Burton Pendant, it being the first line to be placed over the mast head.  I served the entire shroud and with a whipping, created a simple thimble.
 
Not sure if this is the correct method, but it is what is called for in my less than clear plans. 
 
Hope this helps.

Thanks Mike and Mike for stopping in.
 
I am trying to leave a trail for future Niagara builders that will help with the rigging process. No sense having to recreate the wheel each time.

CATHARPIN
 
One other task on the foremast that I should have done earlier was the installation of the catharpin on the lower shroud. That should have been done as soon as I did the lower shrouds and futtock shrouds. By waiting to do this after more of the rigging had been put in place made this harder than it needed to be.
 
I used a .025 rope and tied 2 small measured pieces, routed through a small blackened ring, on each side of the staves. Once set, I tied the two rings together to create the tension that tightened up the shrouds and futtock shrouds. A very nifty method to keep everything taut.

MAIN MAST SHROUDS, MAIN STAY AND MAIN PREVENTER STAY, COURSE HARNESS
 
I spent the evening serving the forward main mast shrouds, main and preventer stays, and assembling the course yard harness.  All of these have to be placed over the main mast top before attaching the cap.
 
I used a served .035 rope for the forward shroud and tied a burton pendant on the end per the plans. I also used a .035 served rope for and preventer stay and a served .045 rope for the main stay. On those, I turned the mouse on my wood lathe using the same process I use for the bullseyes. I then glue them to my rope and use the serving line to cover them.  I have found that it helps if you put a small amount of CA glue around the mouse to hold the serving line from slipping off.
 
With these done, I can place them over the mast head and attach the top and the cap. As I did with the foremast, I will then work my way up.
 

Hey there Mark,
 
Your inquiry was very timely for me.  I just assembled the Burton Pendants required on the Niagara last evening and posted photos on my log.  There are an odd number of shroud lines on the Niagara.  The plans call for the forward shroud line to be lashed with a Burton Pendant, it being the first line to be placed over the mast head.  I served the entire shroud and with a whipping, created a simple thimble.
 
Not sure if this is the correct method, but it is what is called for in my less than clear plans. 
 
Hope this helps.

​
LOWER MAIN MAST SHROUDS
 
I worked on preparing the lower shrouds for the main mast.  I have used .035 rope.The ENTIRE forward shroud will be served. For the remaining 4 shroud lines, I only served that portion of the shroud that wrapped around the mast.  As I showed in an earlier post regarding the foremast, that ended up being exactly 2 inches.
 
Here are the shots of those back shroud lines. After serving the 2 inch section, I mount it in the vice and lash 1/2 inch from the ends and cover up the serving ends. The picture explains it better.  This leaves enough space in the loop to go over the end of the mast head.
 
 
 

1.Rope .008, .012, .018, .025, .035, and .045 in black and brown
 
2.5mm and 7mm closed hearts (I have not used any of the 5mm hearts yet)
 
3.3/32, 1/8 and 5/32 single and double blocks.
 
4. Brass hooks
 
5. 7mm wooden cleats
 
I can tell you that I have used a ton of .012 tan rigging. The plans call for nearly all running rigging and lanyards to be of .010 to .014 tan rope, so I have used .012 to do the trick. I strop all blocks with .012 black rope
 
I have also used a lot of the 1/8 blocks, double and single.

MAIN STAY AND MAIN PREVENTER STAY
Shifting my attention to the main mast, I began work on the lower shrouds and main and preventer stays. Of course, reviewing the plans reminded me that the main stay is attached to a closed heart that is lashed to the fore mast – and I SHOULD HAVE DONE THAT BEFORE I STEPPED THE FOREMAST. The preventer stay is seized to an eye bolt on the forward bit.
 
With the pin rails surrounding the foremast, and running rigging all over the place, lashing a closed heart to the foremast was a challenge.  Here is how I accomplished this.  AGAIN, this should have been done while working on the foremast.
 
1.      I started with a .045 rope that I served. I stropped it around the closed heart and created two eye splices, per the plans.
 
2.      I then took a long length of .035 unserved rope and seized the end to one of the eye splices with a standard whipping.
 
3.      Here is the tough part. I then positioned the heart around the mast, and ran the .035 rope through the other eyes splice. I choose a long enough strand of rope to allow me to pull the end out away from the ship to reach my spring clamp mounted in my vice.
 
4.      I then tied a standard whipping, keeping the knot loose.
 
5.      I took the rope out of the vice, and carefully, by alternating gentle pulls on both sides of the rope, eventually snugged the lashing up to the mast. Once done, I attached a small drop of CA on the knot, and very carefully cut off the tail.
 
The photos below show this process.
 
The preventer stay was much easier, but again, should have been installed before I stepped the foremast. The plan provides that the preventer stay is wound to a closed heart that is attached to an eyebolt secured in the forward bit. I again started with a served .045 rope. I ran it through a hand twisted eyebolt, then wrapped it around the heart. Because the rope is very thick, I decided that I did not want to lash it to “itself” – making a overlarge and cumbersome knot. I elected to cut the end, and fuse it with a lashing. 
 
I drilled a hole in the bit, applied a drop of CA on the eyebolt and installed the completed assembly.
The photos better describe this process.