shipcarpenter

Another section has been completed, the rear timbers have been completed. I'm not 100% satisfied with the result, there are still a few corrections to be made and I hope that the result will be better, otherwise I'll have to build it again.
 

Hello and a nice evening together. Another 17 frames have found their place. Now I have 6 to the rear and 9 to the front.

 

 

 
 

Fore and main lower yards.

Before installing the yards on the mast, I added a few more details - mast and shroud cleats, spare masts and yards, rigging of the rudder.

Hello,
the carpenters laid the first planks. I'm away from the shipyard over the next weekend, so I think that the workers made nothing during that time 

Thanks Giorgio,
I did the main work on the figurehead a few years ago. It remains to finalize some details.

 
I am a professional decorator. Please contact if someone needs to make a sculpture and other decor for the model.

Hello,
it is done!
The interior of the fore castle is ready. But first I had to build the 26 12 pdr ready and some smaller things, like the ashtrays for the ovens and the fire place.

Hello and thank you for your nice comments and likes,
 
today the carpenters finished the rails, so next the painter should do his best.

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I made the base using tissue paper, woodglue and acrylic colours. Basically a papier mache with the woodglue and water that I shaped with a brush. I painted with acrylics then added another woodglue layer for gloss effect. I haven't made up my mind about the best combination of ingredients and methods for it, so each new base is slightly differently made. I went back after this stage and revised a few details on the ship even as late as this stage, but there is little point elaborating on it since I skiped taking photos on many of the stages to be honest. 

Hi 

@Wintergreen
@wefalck
Thank you very much for your interest and appreciation.
 
Completion: Main yard - Studding sail boom iron - Cercle de bout-dehors de vergue
With the production of the studding sail boom irons for the main yard, this chapter can be brought to a close.
The first picture shows the already mounted studding sail boom irons of the main yard.
In the next pictures I have gathered all the yards that have been equipped with studding sail boom irons.


For the further equipment of the yards with blocks, footropes and jackstays, various details still have to be clarified.
More about that soon ...

finished all the storage rooms in the rear of the hold,then milled out all the two piece beams midship, still need to mark out and cut in all the notches in the beams for the carlings, began working on the storage rooms in the forward part of the hold,alot of metal work in this area because of the four doors in this area.

Finally finished the pump well and mounted it permanently, there are two beams in the hold that go thru the pump well and they have to be placed so the front one is right in front of the mast when it is put in and the rear one that  the down tube for the chain pumps has to sit against,took me some time to get them exactly  where they go but I  got them,then I  moved on up to the front of the hold and installed the forward platform which numerous storage rooms will be built,and with the pump well in place I  was able to continue building the beam supports for the orlop deck.

Began cutting out the gunports,not going  to  put  in the sills until  later,stained the framing of the hull,then bolted and stained the wales.

Rebuilt the side quarter and faired (sanded). Looking considerably better this time.
I installed a temporary brace across the top of the counter timbers to try to steady things a bit while I work in that area.
Marked of the top timbers and quarter doorways.  These will be cut down/out this weekend, then I'll get the cills installed.
I am hoping to do a better job on them also!

Hi All
 
Thanks for the nice comments and Tobias what a great photo!!  So I hope you have all had a nice Xmas and are looking forward to new year.
 
Ok another update from me - I've been getting on to get the ceiling finished and at last I'm very glad to say that it is.
 
A couple more pictures of the process
 


Here's some pictures of it looking very rough and ready.  All of the planks are on but without any sanding and also all of the nails are in place.
 


Pictures of the final sanded finish - There are some gaps but overall I'm quite happy with the way its turned out.
 





Its taken ages to do but but I'm finally there - I've learnt a lot about ceiling planking and I could definitely do better next time around.
 
So next I'll be making the two other lower breast hooks and the stern sleepers.  It'll be nice to actually make a part again  
 
Cheers Mark

Standing rigging completed.

To finish up the bow timbers I had two more to go.  The first of those was done exactly like the previous three.  But the last one is a bit different.  The filler that closes the gap is just a little bit different.
 
Step one is the same.   Shape the angle that will fit against the cant frame.  No biggie there.  There is a laser reference line for that just like the others.  But that is the only reference line laser etched.
 
Once shaped to fit against the cant frame,  test it on the model.  It should fir pretty good.   Then you need to take a sharp pencil and draw the next reference line yourself.  Just trace the shape of the cant frame edge onto to the filler as shown.  This will be your outboard hull reference.  Use that line and bevel just as you did in step two for the previous bow timbers.
 

 
It will look like this when you bevel and clean it up with a sanding stick.
 

You dont have to bevel the inboard edge.  We will need to trace that in pencil against the cant frame too.  But that is kind of tricky at this stage.  Once you take a look inside there you will understand.  There really isnt much to bevel inboard actually.   It is best to just leave the inboard side as is until after we remove all of the jigs and fair the inboard side later.  That will be done after planking.
 
But now you can go ahead and fair the outside bow timbers.  Fair them into the cant frames nicely.  Use a long batten to check how true and smooth the run of planks will be.  You dont want any dips.   Dont be afraid to really sand it good with coarse sandpaper first and then switch to a finer grit on your last pass.
 
You will notice that the bow timbers are too high and the tops should be trimmed down to match the sheer.   That can be done after fairing outboard.  Almost done fairing outboard below.  The tops of the bow timbers have been trimmed down as well.
 

How do you know where to trim down the head timbers?  Well you could measure up from your build board using the plans.  But I decided to take some considerable time to create a template.  Its quite an extensive template actually.   Basically its an expansion drawing to scale that shows every last detail of the outboard hull fittings.   
 
This includes the run of the planks at the bow and all ports....swivel stocks...scuppers and fixed blocks and channels with deadeyes....etc.
 
The bottom of this helpful template represents the top edge of the upper wales.  This is in fact how we will transfer the correct lines for the wales later.   But you can also use it to check the positions of all ports and also trim down the bow timbers to the sheer.  Just make sure you put it on both sides of the hull and have them even.
 
This template lines up at the bow based on the cheeks.  You can see on the plans how the upper cheek sits right on top of the upper wales and then transitions onto the stem.  You want to line up the cheek on the template where it will transition onto the stem.  This is important because you want to have everything line up when we work on the hawse holes and bolsters and headrails.
 
It will make locating everything quite easy I think.  I dont believe any other kit or even monograph has such a template and expansion drawing like this.  I thought I would try something new.
 
Time to start the aft cant frames...yippie!!!
 

Here is a quick look at the template.  When flat the expansion clearly shows the gentle "S" curve at the bow for planking run. I folks have a hard time getting this right so this should be a life-saver.  In fact, with all the planks at the bow now shown with their shape and taper this leaves no guesswork at all.  When the time comes we will transfer those planking lines to the frames.  No tick strips needed.   Lining off will be much easier.
 

 
 

Here is another quick angle with some Photoshop.  I added some reference to where the wales would be.  I needed to check some angles and this was the perfect tool for the job.   This is of course just an estimate to where they will be.  I just eye-balled the placement of the wales best I could in photoshop.  I wanted to see what the framing would eventually look like after planking.  How much would be exposed.
 
Also, Just a note to say it would be great to have a disc sander for the bow timbers,  but I know that many of you who will be building this do not have one.  So I have been working all of these parts on this project only by hand just like all of you will have to. It is quite possible to get fairly tight joints just using a sharp chisel and #11 blade along with some sanding sticks.   Its just a matter of going slow and being very careful.  
 

Lengthy work on the cannon carriages:

Port Side Backstays
After two days hard work I have completed all the work related to all the port side backstays.
 
The first picture show the mizzen topgallant mast backstay. This belays to an eyebolt fixed to the outside of the hull via two 2.5mm thimbles.

 
The next photo shows the main breast backstay. The backstay is belayed to the main channel via three blocks and two eyebolts.

The next photo shows the main shifting backstay and the main topgallant mast backstay. The main shifting backstay is belayed to the main channel via two blocks and an eyebolt. The main topgallant mast backstay is belayed to the channel via 3mm deadeyes.

The next photo shows the work in progress, noting I have the rigging plan as a backdrop.

Moving on to the fore breast backstay which is belayed to the fore channel via a three block arrangement and an eyebolt. In terms of completing this backstay I started by adding the 5mm single block to the end of the backstay. Next I took a length of 0.5mm natural thread and seized one end to a 4mm double block. The 0.5mm thread is then fed through the 5mm single block and the free end is seized around the bottom of one of the deadeyes. I then seized an eyebolt to a 3mm single block. I also added a length of 0.1mm natural thread to the other end of the 3mm block. A touch of ga gel was added to the eyebolt before it was pushed into place on the channel. The 0.1mm natural thread was then rigged between the two blocks and the free end was then belayed around the bottom of one of the 5mm deadeyes. The completed fore breast backstay rigging is shown in the photo below.

The next photo shows a close up of the free ends (0.1mm and 0.5mm threads) seized around the bottom of the deadeyes.

Next up was to add the fore shifting and fore topgallant backstays. The fore shifting backstay is belayed to the fore channel via a double block arrangement. The fore topgallant backstay is rigged via 3mm deadeyes.

As there was a lot of sunlight coming through the conservatory windows tonight it was not possible to take a decent photo of the Sphinx. When reviewing the pictures taken I did quite liked the next photo, not sure why.

Over the next few days I will add all the backstays to the starboard side. After that I will add the top and topgallant mast stays. Hopefully I can get all this done before I take an enforced break when my wife and I embark on a trip to France to enjoy a 5 star 8 day river cruise. On my return I should be left with making the top and topgallant yards and then rigging all the yards. I also have the three small boats to make. The Erycina and Saucy Jack kits have been left unopened and it is taking a great deal of will power not to peak inside as I know if I do that I will want to make a start on the build process.
 

Gaff Halliard
After completing the mizzen topmast shrouds I decided to complete the Gaff Halliard rigging. This required two lengths (approx. 100mm) of 0.5mm black thread  rigged to the end of the mizzen gaff. I then made up two 3mm single blocks with a thimble (eyelet) on each end. The two free ends of the black thread were attached, via the thimble, to their respective blocks.  Two lengths of 0.1mm natural thread was then attached to the thimbles at the other end of the blocks.
 
Next I seized to further 2 off 3mm single blocks, adding a rigging hook to one end of each block. The two rigging hooks were fed through the two outer most eyelets on the inner stern fascia panel. It was then a simple case of rigging the 0.1mm natural thread from the upper blocks through the lower blocks and then back up and through the top blocks before being belayed to the outer most cleats on the inner stern fascia panel.
 
Next I will making up and securing the main and fore mast double yard brace block assemblies. Once that is done I plan to add the main and fore top mast shrouds lines
 



 

Hi, and thanks to all