Ray1981
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Ray1981 reacted to mikiek in Masking Problem
Kurt - that gives me the basic idea. I knew lite coverage is what is desired, but I didn't imagine that lite. I think I need to adjust the airbrush, it may be spraying too much paint. I usually end up with a lite, but solid first layer.
If I could expand on that a little, how about primer? Do you always use it? Do you want to end up with a solid coat (built up from several applications)?
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Ray1981 reacted to Harvey in Masking Problem
Hi
What masking tape are you using have you tried an anti bleed masking tape.
just a quick thought
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Ray1981 reacted to mikiek in Masking Problem
Harvey - I am using Tamiya tape in various widths. Never heard of anti-bleeding tape.
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Ray1981 reacted to Harvey in Masking Problem
Hi
have a look at this
3M 471 Blue Fine Line Vinyl Masking Tapehttp://www.amazon.co.uk/Fine-Vinyl-Masking-Painting-Residue/dp/B00CUPL8BI
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Ray1981 reacted to kurtvd19 in Masking Problem
The Tamiya tape is also very good. I use both the 3M Fine Line and the Tamiya. Both are very excellent and resist any seepage under their edges when burnished down onto the surface.
Here is something I did earlier today. Fine line tape masked off the waterline (bare eggshell) and then some frisket was placed on the fine line tape to mask off the rest of the egg. Painted the red first, removed the frisket and put it back onto the fine line tape to cover over the red - not having moved the fine line tape, sprayed the blue and then removed the frisket and then the fine line tape. Total time from first starting to mask until done was less than 20 minutes till I took the photo. Acrylics dry quickly.
I keeping with the nautical theme here, the red is Badger Modelflex Anti-Fouling Red Oxide (16-401) and the blue is their Tug Medium Blue (16-434). The white waterline is the Chicken's natural Eggshell White.
Kurt
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Ray1981 reacted to mikiek in Masking Problem
Kurt - thanks man, you're bringing up a lot of good tips. I'm learning.
Do you ever you frisket on wood? I had a post about that and did some experimenting. I had a tough time getting the frisket off the wood. The stuff I have took almost a day to dry. My impatience doesn't like to have to wait that long.
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Ray1981 reacted to kurtvd19 in Masking Problem
Mike:
I don't use liquid frisket. The frisket I use is a film with a tacky stickum on the one side. It canbe used for painting flames, etc on cars, helmets, etc. Also useful for models.
The 3M and Tamiya tapes need to go ver smooth surfaces. Wood must be sanded smooth before being painted. If it's smooth enough for the paint then the tape will stick and seal. Maybe the better way to think about it would be that if the tape sticks and seals the wood is smooth enough to paint. Choice of woods is critical. Too open a grain and you can never seal it well enough with the tape.
Kurt
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Ray1981 reacted to leclaire in Masking Problem
Kurt,
So what you are saying is either of the two tapes you mentioned work well as long as you press with enough pressure along the edge to get a decent seal. That along with painting the darker color over the lighter one will get a good result.
Bob
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in Masking Problem
Who would want to cover a wood grain. I there is something i like to see is a beautifull wood grain. I use one thin layer of primer (but this is not always needed) that I think the paint and do 1 or 2 layers. This without loosing the wood grain.
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Ray1981 got a reaction from thibaultron in Masking Problem
Well my experience with plastic kits is that when you use too much paint the wood grain dissappears. I dont know if you get this issue when you make a wooden kit like you are doing, but i think yes. Im interested what the specialists say on this question.
Grtz
Ray
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Ray1981 got a reaction from thibaultron in Masking Problem
I dont know exactly what you did before but I think it makes sense this unfortunate result because the apply another layer of paint over an existing layer. I think you painted everything sand brouwn after that the red gunports and than sand brown again. So the gunports have less paint layers as the rest of the area.
I would try to mask the gunports and paint the rest in sand brown give it a good time to dry and then mask the sand brown and paint the gunports red. I think that would give a better result.
But I'm a novice there are maybe easier ways to try to avoid your problem. Anyhow I hope I could help you a tiny bit
Grtz Ray
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Ray1981 reacted to mikiek in Masking Problem
It's funny Ray - I see some builds here where it looks like they wanted to cover the grain. Filler over the entire hull, then sanded smooth. The result is almost glass-like.
For the period builds we do, I prefer grain - the rougher the better. Sadly, after airbrushing a couple coats of primer and then a couple coats of color, most of the grain on my build is gone.
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Ray1981 reacted to kurtvd19 in Masking Problem
Mike:
One of the reasons I like acrylics is the covering ability while being a very thin paint thickness. It is important to use model type paints due to the finely ground pigment vs the stuff from the hardware store (1 micron vs 37 microns). Several very thin coats is what I do starting with the first coat thin enough that it is barely recognized as paint with subsequent coats - still very thin - adding up to good coverage while maintaining the wood grain' visibility. When I say thin coats I don't meant to thin the paint out - just apply a thin coat.
Kurt
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Ray1981 reacted to BANYAN in Beginning to Do Some Seizing
Hi Mike, to a large degree (generally speaking) the line colour was similar with any difference to the colour ususally based on the material from which the rope was made - Hemp, Sisal, Manilla etc. Most seizings (based on my time in the more modern navy) most seizings were done with sailmakers twine. As Mark said, the protective tarring was applied later.
cheers
Pat
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Ray1981 reacted to mtaylor in Beginning to Do Some Seizing
The line would have been tarred after seizing and the line put into place from what I've read. Otherwise it makes a big mess on things.
The tarring was Stockholm Tar which is a light brown when fresh. It does darken with age but from the previous discussions here on MSW, it really never goes black.
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Ray1981 reacted to mikiek in Beginning to Do Some Seizing
I've found several videos on "how to" but my questions are more "with what". In real life I'm assuming all rope starts out a similar color - none of it is black. I would think that this is also true for the yarn/twine used for seizing. For certain purposes, some ropes are then tarred. Would seizing on a tarred rope be tarred after it is lashed?
Then there is the marlin question. Google that and there are many different colors - most seem to be a variation of chocolate brown. Back in the 1812 period, would marlin have been used most of the time? If so I'm guessing that on any particular ship, it probably all came from the same source and would be the same color?
JC Frankie, I hear ya on the oversized thing. With some of the experimenting I have done, the seizing thread was so thin it didn't really add to the visual thickness at all and if it was the same color most people would never know it's there. While this is probably closer to real life, it's tough because I think most of us want people to see all the hard work we went thru. It's kinda like serving ropes at 1:64 . A lot of people say why bother? If you do it right you'll never see it. But at the end of the day, I know it, and that's good enough for me.....[step down from soapbox]
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Ray1981 got a reaction from mtaylor in Masking Problem
Well my experience with plastic kits is that when you use too much paint the wood grain dissappears. I dont know if you get this issue when you make a wooden kit like you are doing, but i think yes. Im interested what the specialists say on this question.
Grtz
Ray
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in Beginning to Do Some Seizing
I agree it would be very helpfull if there were more video tutorial on how to do any rigging. Very helpfull together with the standard books that are recommended here on the forum.
Grtz Ray
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Ray1981 reacted to overdale in Battle Scars
Perhaps I can offer my own two cents worth.
Based on my experience, if you want to build an action diorama, stay away from cutaway features. It tends to confuse the viewer. Many think they are looking at battle damage and not an interior cut away.
Some of the most effective dioramas like good oil paintings, concentrate on just suggesting what is there rather than struggling to pack everything in. Use the sea to set the scene, and the rest of the story will follow naturally.
'Less is more' in a diorama.
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Ray1981 reacted to CaptainSteve in Battle Scars
Try a search in the Build Logs for Ship Model Kits section ... Enter these two terms: 'Dafi' & 'Victory'.
Now, stand back and be prepared to be amazed !!
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Ray1981 reacted to Telp in Beginning to Do Some Seizing
There is a great tutorial on youtube which shows how to seize a block which creates loops either side so they can be wrapped to a mast and pulled tight. I got the hang of it but with my lack of knowledge on doing it correctly I was using pre waxed cottons so when I pulled the loops in the wax was pulling as well, even though it did the job close up the rigging was not very nice. The looping system is great but i'd love to see some example in here on how people do their blocks ect because some of them are superb looking. Great questions indeed.
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Ray1981 reacted to JerseyCity Frankie in Beginning to Do Some Seizing
An excellent question and an issue that is often one of my pet peeves about ship models. Too often the stuff used for seizings on models is grossly out of scale and draws attention to itself by taking up too much space, by appearing way too fat and bulky. Seizings and serving stuff and any kind of binding or lashing put onto a larger line are always made with small stuff considerably smaller than the line they are used on. You will never see something like a 2" thick line wrapped with something as large as a 1" line on an actual ship. Here is an example I pulled off the web with seizing stuff way too large and drawing attention to itself.The line marked #1 in the photo looks more like a giant sleeve. In reality it would blend into the contour of the line it was clapped onto. The stuff used in the photo on #1 looks as thick as one of the three strands of the lines it has been put onto, and this is way too thick. The line used in #2 is better. Aesthetically I like the seizings to be a slightly lighter or darker color of the line it is on, just so it is visible, since if done with stuff of a realistic size it tends to visually disappear otherwise.
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Ray1981 reacted to mikiek in Beginning to Do Some Seizing
Hi Everyone - before I get too far into seizing for my build I wanted to get a few things straight. I apologize as some of these questions are answered in bits and pieces elsewhere, but it would help me now to see it all in one place.
The build is 1813 Niagara at 1:64. The thread sizes supplied in the kit are (or at least claim to be) .008", .021", .028" and .051" .
1. Is there a rule regarding seizing thread size compared to what is being seized? I'm thinking at this scale, just use the smallest stuff I have?
2. Color. I've read twine or marlin (marline?) was used for real. But a quick search for marlin turns up all sorts of colors.
3. Do I use matching colors for seizing thread and the rope to be seized? Or use 1 consistent color for everything?
4. Number of turns? This seems all over the board.
5. What book would get me closest to rigging done in that period?
Thanks.....
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in Masking Problem
Well my experience with plastic kits is that when you use too much paint the wood grain dissappears. I dont know if you get this issue when you make a wooden kit like you are doing, but i think yes. Im interested what the specialists say on this question.
Grtz
Ray
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in Weathering a copper hull
Hi Pete yes i will post the results. I had to work for a while so im not at home (i travell a lot for work) so please be patience and I will show if this is working. Further i recommend you to check the the Log from dafi on the victory and do a search on Le Superbe from BE you will get some nice ideas.
Im new to to this hobby and this was just something I thought that might work.......who knows
grtz Ray
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