wrkempson

Nathan; haven't settled on drafting from the ground up or importing a scanned copy.
Don't choose between use both on different layers. On your ground up work use a grid, I always use the North East Quadrant so my coordinates are all positive. I also work in real size in cad, Being a land surveyor I use decimal feet and convert everything to that including inches and fractions. The advantage of using full size is that scaling to any scale later is easy. Pick some good dependable and commonly agreed dimensions like deck length, overall length to base your coordinate system on and start with even numbers that allow you to relate it to the ship, frame 34 being 123 feet from the stem, I would make that frame's station as 223.00, the keel at that frame might be 16 feet below the waterline that coordinate would be 84 if my baseline was the waterline, so the 2 D choord would be 223.000, 84.000 on the side view, A surveyor trait of using E-W as the X and N-S as Y so some will be wondering what I am saying. Use what works for you, but you get the idea. You can slide your scanned layer around under your drawing as you build it, expect to kind some discrepancies. Make this into an enjoyable time, you will be gaining in spurts between frustrations, normal, just backup on different layers so you have a point to go back to if something goes poof, also keep an eye on point numbers and destinations, clean them up occasionally, don't need data with 20% being useful and you will without housekeeping.
 
jud

Nathan, For the style of text it will depend on what font's are available with the cad software you are using.  I use Autocad and use their 'simplex' font for the majority for the dimensions and text.  As far as text height I prefer text that is 3/32" high for dimensions and text, for titles I scale the 3/32" text up by 1.5 or 2 times.
 
For drafting the ship I've found using a scanned drawing as an overlay works well.  It's also easier to pull dimensions off the scanned drawing than the hard copy. these are just my opinions and seem to work well for most cases.

The scarphs were indeed taken off the plans directly; they were on the sheer plan. I am pleased I did not have to guess the location...

I am interested to know if you have taken the scarph arrangements from your plans.  In a brief review last night, it seems that the scarphs were not usually drawn in.  For Euryalus they were drawn in.  I am attaching the keelson pieces from Euryalus that indicates the orientation of the scarphs.  I could never make a great deal of sense out of it.  The only thing I could come up with was that the keelson pieces were installed in the order 4,5,6,1,2,3.  This would allow two gangs to fit the pieces in situ (4&1, 2&5, 6&3 being done simultaneously).  Your arrangement, of course, would install 1,2,3,4,5,6.  This is no big deal, but I thought I would mention it in passing.
 
Wayne
 

Next little update is the Keelson plan. I will do the Stemson Knee and Stemson on a seperate sheet later. Not particularly exciting admittedly. Plans have slowed as of late as I have been spending a lot of time on the deck of my Bounty. Unfortunately I am suspecting it has been too much time as I am getting the distinct impression I have gone overboard with the treenails. It might be the scale (1:64) makes it more intrusive than the Triton Cross section (1:48). I am hoping that when the holes are filled and the deck is caulked that it will not look quite so in your face but we will see..It currently looks a bit like that pinhead monster from that old horror film.
 

Thank you Jack, Bug, Eddie, Mark and Grant - much appreciated.
 
As Kits go this is one of the better ones, especially at the price . I found my Invoice which I'd left in the bottom of the box - $AU145.00 (plus Postage from USA of $AU190.00 - the cross we bear in the Colonies ).
 
The Laser Cutting was superb, except for one small piece of 1/32" ply which was a bit "how ya goin' " compared to the rest but still better than most laser cutting I've come across before. The Plans - 4 large sheets with to-scale drawings on most stages plus a lot of Isometric Views, a separate sheet for the wheels, 5 smaller sheets to identify the parts, and a 31-page full colour booklet containing the step-by-step Building Instructions - written in PERFECT ENGLISH BY A MODEL-MAKER . Most parts fitted together with a minimum of extra work needed.
 
My only complaints are minor - 1. A couple of pieces of the Roof Sheeting timber missing, and nowhere near enough of the 8-gauge brass nails from which to make the Suspension Pins etc.                2. The PE for the Rooftop Seat Brackets is far too flimsy and bends easily without a lot of care. A thicker material would have been more suitable.
 
I give the kit a 9.5 out of 10 .
 
  Danny

A few minor things added, like the Running Gear, Brake Lever and Wheels and she's all done and FINISHED. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out :
 



 
  Danny

Danny, I have finished my Conestoga Wagon so I hope you don't mind if I pinch a space on your log to show the finished article.
 
 

Dan, when you first purchased your Stage Coach I followed suit.  I even spent time on the Scale Horse Drawn Vehicle web site (which makes me enjoy this forum all the more).  I have now built ME's Stage Coach, Conestoga, Doctor's Buggy and Chuck Wagon.  The carriage works shown by Mike seems to be the common method of supporting all kinds of wagons.  If I were to put a New England whale boat on wheels, that is the arrangement to be used.
 
I posted a few videos on YouTube on building the Conestoga that can be found by searching for "Building the Conestoga Wagon."  I append one photo just for fun.
 
I love what you are doing on the Stage Coach.
 
Wayne
 

making progress in hold area... 
 
 

 
 
and some more screenshots from Unreal Engine 4.... starts to feel like walking through the ship ... ;-))

cheers!
Denis
 
 
 

Thanks Eddie and Cristi.
 
I've fitted the upholstery to the cabin sides and doors :
 

Last job for this phase is hinging the doors and finessing the door locks. Here are the hinges epoxied in and swinging :
 



And just to prove that the door locks do actually work :


I had a few minor problems after epoxying the hinges in, mainly on one door that didn't quite want to close without a bit of sanding to the edge - a bit of touch-up paint will be needed, but no big deal. One lock mortise also needed re-positioning slightly. Without actually fitting the doors properly it was nearly impossible to predict what would happen later .
 
  Danny

Dan, when you first purchased your Stage Coach I followed suit.  I even spent time on the Scale Horse Drawn Vehicle web site (which makes me enjoy this forum all the more).  I have now built ME's Stage Coach, Conestoga, Doctor's Buggy and Chuck Wagon.  The carriage works shown by Mike seems to be the common method of supporting all kinds of wagons.  If I were to put a New England whale boat on wheels, that is the arrangement to be used.
 
I posted a few videos on YouTube on building the Conestoga that can be found by searching for "Building the Conestoga Wagon."  I append one photo just for fun.
 
I love what you are doing on the Stage Coach.
 
Wayne
 

I thought you might like to see how I have been getting on.
 
 

I look forward to your progress.  It looks like an exciting project.
 
One very small thing.  The box shows two pins at the ends of the spokes set into the felloes.  I don't believe these are at all right.  There are no pins or fasteners in the wheel.  Everything was held together by the iron tyre (rim).  If you consult photographs you should see there are no such pins.  
 
I feel like I am being more dogmatic than I should, so I am open to correction and reproof.
 
Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder while building.
 
Wayne

And now for one of the most tedious pieces of the model - the Upholstery. This is about as much fun as tying the Ratlines on a HMS Victory (well, maybe a Brig ).
 
48 parts in the seats, each one needs rounding off from flat stock. The individual pieces are then glued to a base :

The seats assembled and ready for primer :

There are 7 pieces of upholstery for the Jump Seats, Driver's Seat and rooftop Passenger Seat. There are also 24 panels for the sides and doors. All these pieces needed rounding off as well, and three of the door panels had to be recessed out for the internal escutcheon plates :

 
  Danny

Goodwin and Lavery are entirely different books.  Goodwin is the resource for building the ship.  Lavery tells you what to put in it.  Both books are necessary resources.  Add to them Lees' book on Masting and Rigging and you will have a nice trilogy for building these ships.
 
Wayne

Goodwin and Lavery are entirely different books.  Goodwin is the resource for building the ship.  Lavery tells you what to put in it.  Both books are necessary resources.  Add to them Lees' book on Masting and Rigging and you will have a nice trilogy for building these ships.
 
Wayne

I look forward to your progress.  It looks like an exciting project.
 
One very small thing.  The box shows two pins at the ends of the spokes set into the felloes.  I don't believe these are at all right.  There are no pins or fasteners in the wheel.  Everything was held together by the iron tyre (rim).  If you consult photographs you should see there are no such pins.  
 
I feel like I am being more dogmatic than I should, so I am open to correction and reproof.
 
Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder while building.
 
Wayne

Goodwin and Lavery are entirely different books.  Goodwin is the resource for building the ship.  Lavery tells you what to put in it.  Both books are necessary resources.  Add to them Lees' book on Masting and Rigging and you will have a nice trilogy for building these ships.
 
Wayne

I look forward to your progress.  It looks like an exciting project.
 
One very small thing.  The box shows two pins at the ends of the spokes set into the felloes.  I don't believe these are at all right.  There are no pins or fasteners in the wheel.  Everything was held together by the iron tyre (rim).  If you consult photographs you should see there are no such pins.  
 
I feel like I am being more dogmatic than I should, so I am open to correction and reproof.
 
Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder while building.
 
Wayne

Here are two pictures of a 6-pr gun.

Onwards and upwards! Anyway I have adjusted the stem closer to Druxeys ever helpfull hints and have moved onto the rear deadwood. This is just a first attempt as I may play around with the tops of the sternposts slightly as I dont think I have enough detail on the plans to make an accurate attempt. The wing transom also looks a bit severe to my eyes but it is supposed to be at an angle so I may just have to check things through.
 

Dan, when you first purchased your Stage Coach I followed suit.  I even spent time on the Scale Horse Drawn Vehicle web site (which makes me enjoy this forum all the more).  I have now built ME's Stage Coach, Conestoga, Doctor's Buggy and Chuck Wagon.  The carriage works shown by Mike seems to be the common method of supporting all kinds of wagons.  If I were to put a New England whale boat on wheels, that is the arrangement to be used.
 
I posted a few videos on YouTube on building the Conestoga that can be found by searching for "Building the Conestoga Wagon."  I append one photo just for fun.
 
I love what you are doing on the Stage Coach.
 
Wayne
 

Dan, when you first purchased your Stage Coach I followed suit.  I even spent time on the Scale Horse Drawn Vehicle web site (which makes me enjoy this forum all the more).  I have now built ME's Stage Coach, Conestoga, Doctor's Buggy and Chuck Wagon.  The carriage works shown by Mike seems to be the common method of supporting all kinds of wagons.  If I were to put a New England whale boat on wheels, that is the arrangement to be used.
 
I posted a few videos on YouTube on building the Conestoga that can be found by searching for "Building the Conestoga Wagon."  I append one photo just for fun.
 
I love what you are doing on the Stage Coach.
 
Wayne
 

Beautiful work.  
 
One word of caution:  the thin gasket material works well for the braces.  But later on it is used to cover the luggage rack and to close in the storage space beneath the driver's seat.  On my coach the thin gasket material has dried out over time resulting in annoying curls.  By now it is too brittle to work back into place.  It is not impossible but I would look for a different material to use when coming to that part of the build.  
 
If I can I'll edit in a photo later.
 
Wayne