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Stage Coach 1848 by Eddie - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:10


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Hey howya goin all, this is my first non ship build log. I've always wanted to build this long ago but forgot the company that made it then I forgot about it all together till not long ago I saw a pic of this in someone ship build log so I bought this the next day. Here is what is in the Kit.  


Size: Lenght 410mm = 16-1/14"

         Height 290mm = 11-13/32"

         Breath 160mm = 6-310"


Scale 1:10  6/5"=1 Ft


Stagecoaches in the United States’ from 1716 onwards, used to cover the route from Boston to Rhode Island, although the design was not developed until the mid-18th century. The stagecoach as we know it today was developed much later. In 1820, its oval-shaped box, with a round roof, a door on each side and a seat outside for the coachman. Suspension was also added, reinforced by a triple spring. Some ten years later, an employer of “Concord Coaches”, namely J.S. Abbott and the company “Troy Coaches”, came up with almost identical modifications at the same time. They were virtually the only means of transport in existence for most of the populace when it coming to travelling across the country. But it was during the growth of the West when they really came into their own, long before the arrival of the railroad. Most of the stagecoaches in the West were under contract with the Government of the United States to carry the Mail and news of the new laws, but passengers would travel in other stagecoaches. The company “Wells Fargo” used many of these stagecoaches to carry not only passages, but also money, gold and silver. This type of stagecoach was to be produced and used in the United States up to 1910, and in the more outback regions, it was still being manufactured 10 years later.














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I look forward to your progress.  It looks like an exciting project.


One very small thing.  The box shows two pins at the ends of the spokes set into the felloes.  I don't believe these are at all right.  There are no pins or fasteners in the wheel.  Everything was held together by the iron tyre (rim).  If you consult photographs you should see there are no such pins.  

I feel like I am being more dogmatic than I should, so I am open to correction and reproof.


Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder while building.



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I'm off to Colonial Williamsburg, in Virginia. It's a reproduction of the city as it was around the times of the American War for Independence. They do very authentic work, so I'll get some pictures at the wagon-makers shop. It's most likely a bit early for your Butterfield stage, Eddie, but can't be too far off.

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Hey Eddie, Welcome to the Wagon Train!   Looks like we're onto a new trend here for the Sailors who hit the shore leave.


Good luck with the kit!  I've pointed out some challenges over in my build - my biggest advice would be to soak just about all the wood if it needs to be bent, even it just slightly. It's pretty brittle (to say the least).  Also, keep an eye on inventory, not all the quantities, etc, seemed to match up and I've had to dip into my back stock for few pieces.


Good luck!

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Hey howya going all, I've decided to start on the cabin first there is a little tension in the wood but I think it will be ok to bend it a little the glue should be enough to hold it. The bottom part of the side of the cabin there is a little more material so I'll need to heat bend that part when I got to glue on the floor.  :bird-vi:





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Hey howya goin all, here im working on the wheels while the glue drying on the cabin. Here I have the frames of the wheel in a vise to sand the joints a little on the angel because they dont join up tight together.  :bird-vi:





Here you can see the wheel axle housing the hole through the housing is not drilled straight so I filled it with a peice of dowel and will redrill it later, you can also see one of the spokes slot in the axle was drilled in the wrong spot so I filled it and redrill it later aswell.



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Hey howya goin all, ever now and then you have to get out the handsaw and just start hacking into the wood hahaha. I'm starting to work on the floor for the cabin.  :bird-vi:



Here is a little something some people might not know you can get little dispoable tips for your CA glue bottle that can give you better control on how much glue comes out of the tip, these ones are made by Zap the same brand as my CA glue I think they come in packets of 12 i got a couple of packets so long ago.








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Hey howya goin all, now to heat bend the bottom of the cabin, I had some brass rod lying around and decieded to put some pins in the cabin to hold the floor up and keep the clamps from slipping off, by the way DON'T BUY THIS BRAND OF CLAMPS that are in the last 3 pics THEY ARE CRAP they are cheap chinese made they dont even hold that good.  :bird-vi:






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Hey howya goin all, here I've started the lining of the inside of the cabin they want you to put the cabin together before the lining there is no way in bloody hell I can get my big hand inside of something that small to line the inside like they want you to do in the manual, also in the manual they show you where my thumb is they show you that they lined it but the don't tell you what to use I wasn't going to sit here for a couple of hours going through everthing to try to work out what timber I had left over to use so I said WTH and use some walnut stain I had left over from another job.  :bird-vi:



This is the glue I'm useing to line the cabin with.


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Hi Eddie, good to see the build log up :) . Off to a flying start.



DON"T BUY THIS BRAND OF CLAMPS THEY ARE CRAP they are cheap chinese made they dont even hold that good


Yep, gotta agree. I bought a couple of these years ago, they went into the bin not long after :D .



you can get little dispoable tips for your CA glue bottle


Are the tips steel or plastic? If they're steel you can unclog them by running them over a gas flame for a couple of seconds :) .


One point for now - I got the tip when I saw Moonbug's coach - sand smooth and use a clear Sanding Sealer, couple of coats with a sand between, on the outside (and the inside if you feel it necessary) of the cabin sides BEFORE gluing on any Moldings. It's near impossible to get right into the corners later to clean them up properly. Also do the same to the Moldings before gluing them on, same reason. PVA glue will stick to the Sealer. After all is attached you should only have to topcoat it all. Will you be painting or leaving it in natural wood colour?


:cheers:  Danny

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16 hours ago, Eddie said:

I've started the lining of the inside of the cabin they want you to put the cabin together before the lining there is no way in bloody hell I can get my big hand inside of something that small to line the inside like they want you to do in the manual.

Hey howya goin all, for new people starting out with model kits, what I said ^here^ in post 15 don't always follow the instructions manual step by step just use it as a guide, try to plan out what you need to do first.  :bird-vi:

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13 hours ago, Dan Vad said:

Are the tips steel or plastic?

Hey howya goin Danny mate, sorry mist that question mate they are plastic if they get cloged I just cut the cloged part off they are long enough so you can cut it quite a few time.


13 hours ago, Dan Vad said:

use a clear Sanding Sealer

What would you or someone else recommend to get for this here in Aussie Land or somewhere in the world? :bird-vi:

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14 hours ago, Dan Vad said:

If they're steel you can unclog them by running them over a gas flame for a couple of seconds

Yeah I know this little trick I got one of these for those little itty bity tiny brass photo etch part you know the ones that go flying off into nowhere and you spend hours looking for on the bench and floor, you can put the smallest amount of CA glue anywhere, you can make a cheap version by getting a peice of wood for the handle getting a sewing needles put the pointy part in the wood and cutting just next to the top of the needle hole look at the second pic.  :bird-vi:



Heres is a macro look at it.


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Hey howya Mike mate, I got some magnet wire I forget what gage it is but its thin and I might get a push switch like this one and run the wire between the ply and the lining of the roof and put the switch in the trunk on the roof since the truck has working hinges. I just notice there are bags on the sides of the drivers set if I can get one small enough I might put it in there or I can jury-rigged something in there so I just squeeze the bag, I will have to think about this a bit more and see what I can get. Whatya think Mike.  :bird-vi:



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Hey howya goin all.   :bird-vi:


2 hours ago, Dan Vad said:

Thanks Danny mate. will goto Bunnings and get one.



1 hour ago, reklein said:


Irwin brand slide clamps are the best here in the states.


Bill you know if I can get them in 150mm - 6" long.

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