Phill Elston

Thanks for the compliments guys.  No, it doesn't take up much space (about 10 square inches) on the desk and thus far (2 afternoons) it has been really good.  My thought is to cut some wooden triangles to fit into a couple of the shelves and drill the wood out to hold various drill bits and dremmel accessories/cutting heads etc.

Hi there,
 
I've recently got back into model making.  I've never made a wooden model ship (or any other type for that matter!) My forté was 54mm - 75mm scale figures and dioramas.  However, a 20 year career in the RN left me with a liking for the sea and I'm now part way through an Amati HMAV Bounty (there's "dust" everywhere in my work area at the moment as I'm filling and fairing!) 
When I was modelling before, I had a little compartmentalised "tunrntable" that came from a graphics shop that I once worked in.  I used it for standing a lot of my tools and things in.
The better part of thirty years, umpteen house moves and a couple of kids (now adults) have left my turntable heaven knows where! 
 
So now that I've "returned from the cold', I need some way of storing my modelling tools whilst having them easily to hand.  This will not only keep my workspace clear, but also keep my tools in better condition and keep me from injuring my self on needlepoint sharp kit!
 
I searched everywhere in stationery stores and suppliers, graphic art shops...  Allsorts. Nothing.  So I turned my attention to E-Bay.  Eventually, I found something...  in "Health & Beauty"/"Make Up"/ "Make up tools & accessories"
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201479390299?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=500659444906&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I'm not sure that the full link will show so it was described on E-Bay UK as
"360-degree Spinning Cosmetic Organizer Display Makeup Box Case Cleanup Rotating"
 
It arrived in just a few days and I set to, "adapting it" to my needs.  It's not finished but I have managed to clear a BIG space on my work table!
 
I thought it might work for someone else, so I've posted it here...
 
I hope it helps someone else.

So over the past week or so I've been working on the first planking of my Bounty...  Please remember that this is the very first ship build that I have done, Admittedly, in my youth, I made a LOT of models, but not one wooden one.  Miniaturised wood butchery is turning out to be pretty good fun though!
 
Luckily, I was reading another build log that urged other builders to exercise caution when planking the hull and to plank port and starboard sides equally - otherwise there is a chance that the hull could buckle or warp with the uneven shrinkage of the planks set.
I've planked the hull down six planks from the bottom of the bulwarks and a similar number up from the false keel.  I'm now reaching the point where there is no hard frame at the forward end of the planks to pin them to while they are drying... 
 
So the method that seem obvious to me to pinion the planks in position whilst they dry - either from soak/forming or gluing.  I have several pieces of 1mm plywood scrap that will pin to a hard point on the keel frame and then bend over the setting plank until it's dry (as seen in the first photograph below)
 
Throwing a question out there to all you more experienced builders now...  I was able to work out deck planking because I have real life experience of deck planking.  However, all the ships I ever served in were steel...  So I have no Idea what lengths to cut the secondary planking for the hull, and I have even less Idea of how the joints between those planks were staggered?
As I type this, I'm thinking I should simply "google" or "YouTube" it...  Nothing though, in my opinion, beats hard experience from first hand, so please readers...  Throw me a tip or two?
 
Many thanks

Looks like a great workable idea. Thanks as I am also in tight quarters.

Looks like a great solution for extra storage which I need desperately.  Will check this out, thanks for posting.

Hi there,
 
I've recently got back into model making.  I've never made a wooden model ship (or any other type for that matter!) My forté was 54mm - 75mm scale figures and dioramas.  However, a 20 year career in the RN left me with a liking for the sea and I'm now part way through an Amati HMAV Bounty (there's "dust" everywhere in my work area at the moment as I'm filling and fairing!) 
When I was modelling before, I had a little compartmentalised "tunrntable" that came from a graphics shop that I once worked in.  I used it for standing a lot of my tools and things in.
The better part of thirty years, umpteen house moves and a couple of kids (now adults) have left my turntable heaven knows where! 
 
So now that I've "returned from the cold', I need some way of storing my modelling tools whilst having them easily to hand.  This will not only keep my workspace clear, but also keep my tools in better condition and keep me from injuring my self on needlepoint sharp kit!
 
I searched everywhere in stationery stores and suppliers, graphic art shops...  Allsorts. Nothing.  So I turned my attention to E-Bay.  Eventually, I found something...  in "Health & Beauty"/"Make Up"/ "Make up tools & accessories"
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201479390299?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=500659444906&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I'm not sure that the full link will show so it was described on E-Bay UK as
"360-degree Spinning Cosmetic Organizer Display Makeup Box Case Cleanup Rotating"
 
It arrived in just a few days and I set to, "adapting it" to my needs.  It's not finished but I have managed to clear a BIG space on my work table!
 
I thought it might work for someone else, so I've posted it here...
 
I hope it helps someone else.

Hi there,
 
I've recently got back into model making.  I've never made a wooden model ship (or any other type for that matter!) My forté was 54mm - 75mm scale figures and dioramas.  However, a 20 year career in the RN left me with a liking for the sea and I'm now part way through an Amati HMAV Bounty (there's "dust" everywhere in my work area at the moment as I'm filling and fairing!) 
When I was modelling before, I had a little compartmentalised "tunrntable" that came from a graphics shop that I once worked in.  I used it for standing a lot of my tools and things in.
The better part of thirty years, umpteen house moves and a couple of kids (now adults) have left my turntable heaven knows where! 
 
So now that I've "returned from the cold', I need some way of storing my modelling tools whilst having them easily to hand.  This will not only keep my workspace clear, but also keep my tools in better condition and keep me from injuring my self on needlepoint sharp kit!
 
I searched everywhere in stationery stores and suppliers, graphic art shops...  Allsorts. Nothing.  So I turned my attention to E-Bay.  Eventually, I found something...  in "Health & Beauty"/"Make Up"/ "Make up tools & accessories"
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201479390299?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=500659444906&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I'm not sure that the full link will show so it was described on E-Bay UK as
"360-degree Spinning Cosmetic Organizer Display Makeup Box Case Cleanup Rotating"
 
It arrived in just a few days and I set to, "adapting it" to my needs.  It's not finished but I have managed to clear a BIG space on my work table!
 
I thought it might work for someone else, so I've posted it here...
 
I hope it helps someone else.

Hi there,
 
I've recently got back into model making.  I've never made a wooden model ship (or any other type for that matter!) My forté was 54mm - 75mm scale figures and dioramas.  However, a 20 year career in the RN left me with a liking for the sea and I'm now part way through an Amati HMAV Bounty (there's "dust" everywhere in my work area at the moment as I'm filling and fairing!) 
When I was modelling before, I had a little compartmentalised "tunrntable" that came from a graphics shop that I once worked in.  I used it for standing a lot of my tools and things in.
The better part of thirty years, umpteen house moves and a couple of kids (now adults) have left my turntable heaven knows where! 
 
So now that I've "returned from the cold', I need some way of storing my modelling tools whilst having them easily to hand.  This will not only keep my workspace clear, but also keep my tools in better condition and keep me from injuring my self on needlepoint sharp kit!
 
I searched everywhere in stationery stores and suppliers, graphic art shops...  Allsorts. Nothing.  So I turned my attention to E-Bay.  Eventually, I found something...  in "Health & Beauty"/"Make Up"/ "Make up tools & accessories"
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201479390299?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=500659444906&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I'm not sure that the full link will show so it was described on E-Bay UK as
"360-degree Spinning Cosmetic Organizer Display Makeup Box Case Cleanup Rotating"
 
It arrived in just a few days and I set to, "adapting it" to my needs.  It's not finished but I have managed to clear a BIG space on my work table!
 
I thought it might work for someone else, so I've posted it here...
 
I hope it helps someone else.

Thanks for the compliments guys.  No, it doesn't take up much space (about 10 square inches) on the desk and thus far (2 afternoons) it has been really good.  My thought is to cut some wooden triangles to fit into a couple of the shelves and drill the wood out to hold various drill bits and dremmel accessories/cutting heads etc.

Hi there,
 
I've recently got back into model making.  I've never made a wooden model ship (or any other type for that matter!) My forté was 54mm - 75mm scale figures and dioramas.  However, a 20 year career in the RN left me with a liking for the sea and I'm now part way through an Amati HMAV Bounty (there's "dust" everywhere in my work area at the moment as I'm filling and fairing!) 
When I was modelling before, I had a little compartmentalised "tunrntable" that came from a graphics shop that I once worked in.  I used it for standing a lot of my tools and things in.
The better part of thirty years, umpteen house moves and a couple of kids (now adults) have left my turntable heaven knows where! 
 
So now that I've "returned from the cold', I need some way of storing my modelling tools whilst having them easily to hand.  This will not only keep my workspace clear, but also keep my tools in better condition and keep me from injuring my self on needlepoint sharp kit!
 
I searched everywhere in stationery stores and suppliers, graphic art shops...  Allsorts. Nothing.  So I turned my attention to E-Bay.  Eventually, I found something...  in "Health & Beauty"/"Make Up"/ "Make up tools & accessories"
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201479390299?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=500659444906&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I'm not sure that the full link will show so it was described on E-Bay UK as
"360-degree Spinning Cosmetic Organizer Display Makeup Box Case Cleanup Rotating"
 
It arrived in just a few days and I set to, "adapting it" to my needs.  It's not finished but I have managed to clear a BIG space on my work table!
 
I thought it might work for someone else, so I've posted it here...
 
I hope it helps someone else.

Hi there,
 
I've recently got back into model making.  I've never made a wooden model ship (or any other type for that matter!) My forté was 54mm - 75mm scale figures and dioramas.  However, a 20 year career in the RN left me with a liking for the sea and I'm now part way through an Amati HMAV Bounty (there's "dust" everywhere in my work area at the moment as I'm filling and fairing!) 
When I was modelling before, I had a little compartmentalised "tunrntable" that came from a graphics shop that I once worked in.  I used it for standing a lot of my tools and things in.
The better part of thirty years, umpteen house moves and a couple of kids (now adults) have left my turntable heaven knows where! 
 
So now that I've "returned from the cold', I need some way of storing my modelling tools whilst having them easily to hand.  This will not only keep my workspace clear, but also keep my tools in better condition and keep me from injuring my self on needlepoint sharp kit!
 
I searched everywhere in stationery stores and suppliers, graphic art shops...  Allsorts. Nothing.  So I turned my attention to E-Bay.  Eventually, I found something...  in "Health & Beauty"/"Make Up"/ "Make up tools & accessories"
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201479390299?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=500659444906&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I'm not sure that the full link will show so it was described on E-Bay UK as
"360-degree Spinning Cosmetic Organizer Display Makeup Box Case Cleanup Rotating"
 
It arrived in just a few days and I set to, "adapting it" to my needs.  It's not finished but I have managed to clear a BIG space on my work table!
 
I thought it might work for someone else, so I've posted it here...
 
I hope it helps someone else.

That's pretty much where I am at the moment. Looking at a Caldercraft 1:64 23' launch and the supplied Amati "lifeboat" (with changes to the internal fit.) adding scratch built mast booms and spars as well as sails.
 
Thanks for the thoughts all.

When you start shopping for boats, keep in mind that there isn't much difference between a 23 foot cutter and a 30 ft. cutter as far as design.  If some company's 30 ft. cutter in a different scale comes out to 23 ft. in your scale, that could be the one for you.  Figure out what yours need to be in inches or mm so you can compare the offerings available.

Hi Allan,
 
I'm sure it is and I may be capable... But I wouldn't know quite where to start!

Yes it's double planked. 1st layer is 1.5 X 5, second layer is 0.5 X 4. Not SO concerned about that layer as they should bend really quite easily (watch this space to see me eating my words!)
 
 
Not doing holes from here on in as I've changed to a flat based map pin as you can see from the keel / bow view above.

Oh you want clamping?  I've been camping/wedging/tying/pinning/taping... you name it!
 
So I got the first planks onto the hull frames at deck level today, with both good results and OK results...
For some reason known only to the gods of sleep deprivation, I started on the port side with a plank that was way shorter than the hull.  (I thought "I shall'nt be making that mistake again")  I glued the dry plank from the stern, drilling it so that the map pin wouldn't split it... but the map pin drove through too far and split the bugger anyway!  I glued this plank (and a corresponding plank on the stbd side as well as adding an extra piece of planking on the "short" side) on each frame up to the third from the bow (where the curvature starts to get harsh)
Once this glue had gone off, I then stood the remainder of the planks in hot water for a few minutes before gently teasing them round the bow curve.  On one side, again, I'd drilled holes to allow map pins to pass through... but again, it split - re-think required!
So I changed tactic and I changed map pin type from conical type pins to flat bottomed pins which i could position each side of a plank to hold it in place.  I gave the planks that I'd formed around the bow time to dry (a couple of hours). Before lifting them slightly, squirting some glue underneath and then pushing the wedging pins back down. and again setting aside to dry.  Planking the hull won't be a quick thing, but if the results I got from the first two planks are anything to go by... It'll be worth it.
I set the next two planks in place from the stern fwd and clamped them up.  They could be drying while the bows set too.
 
Then I thought, looking at the plans, Planking also starts from the keel...  So I cut and sanded a pair of planks to fit one each side of the false keel.  I glued these at their contact points and once that glue had gone off, I bent them round and down to be glued on the curvature.  Getting there I believe...
 

Thanks Dave,
 
Oddly, last night, I started reading Bligh's diary.
 
Need to find out about that stern though...

I've also planked, "Caulked" and "nailed" the upper deck.  A long and arduous, though ultimately, rewarding job!  I made up an end-stop on my plank cutter to ensure that all the upper deck planks were of uniform length, which at this scale, I think I worked out to be 8cm.  It seemed to work really quite well!
Time in the RN taught me that traditionally there were a couple of planking patterns used in the days that Bounty was afloat.  I went for the "three butt shift".  I started on the Centre Line of the deck and worked from there.  I was quite chuffed that when I had reached the stern, I was only anout a quarter of a mm off the line.  I only had to sand about 8 planks to get them fitting flush and nicely...
 
Then it was a question of how do I show the caulking between planks.  I thought that picking oakum and forcing it between the planks was taking things just a LITTLE too far, so had the thought to rub one edge and one end of each plank on the graphite edge of a 4B pencil...  It worked to a degree, but not as well as I'd liked.  So, it was yet another tedious task of stepping in the edges of the planks.  This time, I used a 4H pencil as the B grade were just too soft.  I also used the 4H pencil to "dot in" all the nails...
 
I don't think that the results I have achieved are too bad - for a newbie!
 
 

Well things are progressing. 
The bow and stern are pretty much blocked and faired.
 
I would as that if anyone can guide me as to the way the plywood blocks (supplied with the kit) on the stern need to be faired, please contact me and describe?
 
 
 

As of this evening, the bow and stern are blocked and filled. The frames, I believe are all faired correctly, the transom is fitted and faired and the stern bulwarks are glued, pinned and set to dry. The main deck is ready to be planked as I believe that once I have done that, the hull should be ready for initial planking...
 
Oh and I went with my gut feeling on the cutwater. Sanded it down and re-planked it and will sand it once the glue has fully gone off.

Time to re-read the instructions and plans, then look at other build logs to glean more tricks & tips before making a hash of things!

Feeling quite satisfied

I bought this model years ago... Then "life" got in the way.  So it has languished in lofts and cupboards in three houses as well as in a "Lock'n'Store" facility.
My father often asked me how "the build" was going, only to be given a Caribbean "soon come mon!".  Sadly, my father "crossed the bar" last November, so he never got to see any part of the build.   Now I find myself laid up with a plaster on my leg and unable to walk my two dogs (or do much else truth be told...) but what a perfect time to start building!?
 
I went and bought a 'Model Slipway' "Fair-a-frame" that I thought would help me build better...  Then I found out how poor the laser charring is on the parts, as well as the poor fit of some of the parts... and don't get me started on the instructions!  Add to that the fact that on the Amati Bounty, there is so little false keel, the clamp part has trouble holding it.
If you are thinking of getting one of these "tools", save your money!  Suffice to say that I haven't labelled it as "money well spent" and I'm hoping to get a refund through the retailer.
 
Anyway... the build.
 
I found the quality and precision of the joint cuts on this kit to be very good - if anything, some had to be filed open a little to allow the free flow of glue or the joints were simply too tight!  Dry fitting was good, sometimes needing a little "deck-ape" force to separate them before glue fitting!
 
I've actually pretty much finished block filling and fairing the bow and stern, but haven't taken shots of those yet.  Once that task is finished, I'll get the camera out again.  I've taken onboard the advice from many other builds and I'm taking my time as I realise that it is going to pay dividends in later stages.
 
Whilst glues were going off on the fairing blocks, I made use of the time to start constructing some of the deck fittings, ladders, hatches etc.  I have found though, that I have made a couple of boo-boo's... One which will stay as is because it'll take a real nerd to find it (I planked the half deck under the ladder "thwartships" rather than fore & aft) The other, I'll put a call out for advice on... In line with the instructions, I planked the "Cutwater Keel piece" that is to say, the bow part of the keel.  Then realised that with the supplied bow blocks, the cutwater will no longer fit!  My thought is to sand off the planking that I have fitted to the cutwater, dry fit it and mark where it butts the bow sections and re-plank it in accordance with the instructions.  The thought of sanding out the slot where the cutwater sits by an even 1mm each side is not one I really want to put into practice.
As I say, I'd appreciate any steering in the right direction from the more experienced builders out there?
 
Many thanks and I look forward to reading your comments and LEARNING from all of you.
 
Phill

Yes it's double planked. 1st layer is 1.5 X 5, second layer is 0.5 X 4. Not SO concerned about that layer as they should bend really quite easily (watch this space to see me eating my words!)
 
 
Not doing holes from here on in as I've changed to a flat based map pin as you can see from the keel / bow view above.

I bought one of these and it is good:
http://www.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-380-Tabletop-Carousel/dp/B001BC49TY/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1457870607&sr=1-1&keywords=tool+carousel

Hi there,
 
I've recently got back into model making.  I've never made a wooden model ship (or any other type for that matter!) My forté was 54mm - 75mm scale figures and dioramas.  However, a 20 year career in the RN left me with a liking for the sea and I'm now part way through an Amati HMAV Bounty (there's "dust" everywhere in my work area at the moment as I'm filling and fairing!) 
When I was modelling before, I had a little compartmentalised "tunrntable" that came from a graphics shop that I once worked in.  I used it for standing a lot of my tools and things in.
The better part of thirty years, umpteen house moves and a couple of kids (now adults) have left my turntable heaven knows where! 
 
So now that I've "returned from the cold', I need some way of storing my modelling tools whilst having them easily to hand.  This will not only keep my workspace clear, but also keep my tools in better condition and keep me from injuring my self on needlepoint sharp kit!
 
I searched everywhere in stationery stores and suppliers, graphic art shops...  Allsorts. Nothing.  So I turned my attention to E-Bay.  Eventually, I found something...  in "Health & Beauty"/"Make Up"/ "Make up tools & accessories"
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201479390299?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=500659444906&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I'm not sure that the full link will show so it was described on E-Bay UK as
"360-degree Spinning Cosmetic Organizer Display Makeup Box Case Cleanup Rotating"
 
It arrived in just a few days and I set to, "adapting it" to my needs.  It's not finished but I have managed to clear a BIG space on my work table!
 
I thought it might work for someone else, so I've posted it here...
 
I hope it helps someone else.

As I am looking at Coppering the hull of my build, can I ask... Did you run the pounce wheel onto the copper plates AFTER sticking them down? If so, was that after EACH plate was fixed or after each row?
I'm building in 1:60 so I guess I'll have to work out what width tape to get.
Last questions... Did you make your copper chopper or was it bought? If you made it, what from/how?
 
Sorry for being a pain but I want to do the best I can. I'd already thought that butted plates just didn't seem to be authentic and had considered copper tape - which I'm thinking is going to be far less expensive than buying pre-made plates, easier than using CA adhesive and in the long run, be more pleasing to the eye.
 
Looking forward to reading the rest of your build. It looks impressive as hell!