Haliburton

To simulate the hull plating lines, I taped alternating rows using Tamiya flexible tape and then sprayed a fairly medium-heavy coat of Mr. Surfacer 500.  Once you remove the tape, you have nice simulated plating lines.
 
I then added the degaussing cables.  The Artist Hobby set gives you four pieces for each side of the hull, and then a piece for the stern.  The pieces all fit together perfectly.  I've been super impressed by the Artist Hobby update set.  Everything fits the Pit Road kit like a glove.

OK, the other day, I had my final STL file for one of the two Aubrey figures. Unfortunately, my white primer went a little 'bitty', so doesn't look the best, but you can see the general details - this will be included in the kit:
 
I also decided to design the hand pump bodies and brackets for 3-d printing, as having to make up 6 of these would be a little boring to do for the modeller.
 

My sample Surprise photo etched sheets are also now with me, all I have to do now is finish building up the hull and take pics for Jim to work from - Time is just melting away...

I thought I was at a stopping point, but when my wife volunteered her help to stain the porch. I was off to the hardware store:-)
 

 
The local store didn’t have much of a selection, luckily they had one she approved of.

Update:
 
Finally all rails attached and also the top of the hull given a few layers of WOP. Now that the top and bottom are finally in the oil it looks like a nice whole.
Long awaited to put the top in the oil, so happy to reached this stage. Also filled all the holes that were in the rails, so that it looks nice and uniform.
 
Next job seems to be the rudder  
 
I replaced the Chess tree patterns with my own, probably sanded the originals down a bit too much when removing the char. This made them a bit too narrow
 

 
This is how the Sphinx looks now:
 




 
 
 

I didn't know you could post videos here too? Here's a little reel I posted on Instagram
 
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DLXAOkSTzxy/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
 

Side view Shpinx.mp4    

Shall put some of my build log photos up to see if it helps 👍

Just taking these few photos to show you were l ended up. 

Thank you both for your wonderful and inspiring words.
 
 
Wow, Jeff, when I see your Mikasa, my heart melts. She's turned out so beautiful.
What I don't understand, Jeff, is that you're talking about three pinnaces. Where exactly would the third pinnace have been stand on Deck?
 
 
Javelin, thanks again for your compliment. It makes me very proud.
So, for my research on this ship, I'm almost exclusively using what I can find online. I do have a few books about the Mikasa and the IJN, but they're often about their historical background. Strangely, the pictures and technical information about this famous ship are very sparse.
Which, as you say, is a real shame for such a large scale, as there's so much detail that could be included.
 
I found the following page on the Internet, which helped me figure out how I wanted to display my pinnaces.
 
Steam Pinnacles, Pickets and Tenders
 
Among other things, you can see the following two photos which contributed to my decision not to change the cabin.
 

 
Here you can see the pinnace with its cabin fully fitted and without a tarpaulin. It's also not as elaborately painted as in the following photo, which reinforced my intention to paint it a warlike gray. It shows the H.M.S. Royal Sovereign.
 

 
And so I decided not to make any changes to the Micro Master boats.
I simply didn't feel comfortable removing the splash guard from the rudder and damaging the railing. The manufacturer of the 3D print is located on the other side of the planet, and another Micro Master order for me has been stuck in customs for over three weeks anyway.
I didn't want to take any chances.
 
First, the basics again. There's a narrow edge that I had to negotiate with the cradles.
 

 
So I lined the front part of the cradles with styrene.
 

 
Fits quite well.
 

 
Then the base colors were applied. As already mentioned, this one also uses the gray of the war paint.
 

 
Then a mandatory aging process.
 

 
This is the first step.
 

 
Man, those boats look great.
 

 
And put it on the deck to test it.
 

Aren’t they marvellous these boats from Micro Master Jolle, especially when you compare them to the kit boats 😂 totally different league, even if they are not strictly correct they add so so much more to the finished model. On myself having three pinnace boats , my final take on my display was  Mikasa just arriving in Japan from Britain and taking on more crew, assuming some would  be taken from other new ships from Britain already in Japanese Fleet, hence the other steam pinnace, besides had to have another shot on one of these, just indulged myself here 😂 🤛

Funnels completed and glued in place. The PE adds a nice bit of detail. The cages on top have come out well considering how fragile they are. 
I will be adding the binoculars next But not the PE ones, the plastic ones are far better. PE is mostly good but when it is a part that sits on a column it just doesn't work. They would just be flat parts that don't look right. 

Dear all,
this is my model of a De Havilland Mosquito Fighter Bomber Mk. VI belonging to the 143 Squadron of the RAF Coastal Command fighter and anti-submarine unit operating from October 1944 to May 1945 and based at Banff, Scotland.

The kit was the old Tamiya 1/48 which is dated 1998, but I found this kit very nice and it still builds into an impressive model. My build log can be found here.

The Extra Dark Sea Grey camouflage was often painted over the standard RAF grey/green camouflage and I applied the former so that the latter could be seen through the EDSG layer. The model is finished with Tamiya acrylic paints with the exception of the metallic parts that are finished with Vallejo Metallic paints.

All the pictures of this post are taken with a Nikon 3100 camera with an aperture priority mode with an indirect natural sun light illumination.









The dimensions of the Mosquito can be here compared with those of a Spitfire:

Two legends pictured together:
In conclusion, I enjoyed very much building this fine kit and I hope that you like my model. Now I am moving back to my ship model.
Best regards,
Dan

The internet can be a wonderful place! It is especially wonderful if you are searching for images to add to a post at Model Ship World. You can find thousands of images of ships online!
 
BUT (and this is a big but) you probably don't own those images! And that means you can't simply add them willy-nilly to your content! Many images you find by doing an internet search are licensed, meaning there are rules that govern how the images may be used. If you violate the terms of the licensing agreement, you are breaking the law. If you share those images to MSW, you may even be placing MSW in legal jeopardy.
 
There is a way to determine whether you can share an image you find online, and it's pretty easy to do. I will demonstrate this for you here. Let's start with a Google search for HMS Victory. The search results look like this:
 

 
 
In the upper right corner of the results page, look for the "Tools" drop-down menu and click it.
 

 
 
This action opens a second toolbar, from which you should next select the  "Usage rights" drop-down menu.
 

 
 
This brings up a menu with three options:

 
"Not filtered by license" shows all the results of a search. This is the default option. "Commercial & other licenses" typically means you're going to have to pay a fee to use the image. Images from stock image vendors such as Shutterstock and Alamy fall into this category, as do most other results. "Creative Commons licenses" is the option you want. Be prepared to see a greatly diminished set of results!  
Clicking that option brings up only images that are generally okay for you to use, but with caveats, as I'll show you shortly. Note in this image that TWO of the first three results shown in the "not filtered" set are gone now!
 
 

 
At this point, you still have some homework to do -- you need to actually read the licensing terms and see what conditions you need to fulfill in order to use the image. Let's look at the first image on its Wikimedia page.
 
 

 
Scrolling down that page brings us to the licensing information, which says that you are free to share the work. Hooray!
 

 
But wait! Not so fast! Even for this shareable image there are conditions you must fulfill! For this image, you must "give appropriate credit, provide a link to the license, and indicate if changes were made."
 

 
What does that mean? That means you must cite your source, i.e., tell us where you obtained the photo. Here's what that looks like in a kit review I posted:

 
For comparison, let's go back to our search results, set the usage rights option to "Commercial & other licenses", and then click on one of the results from Alamy, a stock image vendor. We'll follow the links until we get to the image at Alamy's website.
 
 

 
 
There are two very important things to take notice of at the Alamy image page. The first is that the image is NOT free to use! If you want to use it, you have to pay $39 for the privilege.
 
 

 
 
The second important thing to take note of is that the image is watermarked. A watermark indicates that someone is claiming ownership of the image. After you pay Alamy the $39 fee, they will send you an unmarked copy of the image. See how that works? If you share a watermarked image to MSW, that's a dead giveaway that you didn't pay the fee!
 
 

 
 
Yes, it takes a bit more work to research usage rights, but you need to do it, because
it's the honest and legal thing to do it helps ensure that our beloved forum doesn't end up in legal hot water and, probably most importantly for forum members, the staff will delete photos from your posts that they have determined violate usage rights!  
Thanks for your cooperation!

Good evening everyone
Welcome to my new build, this kit is the very same kit that was reviewed By @James H, and i would like to thank him for donating the kit to me for completion
 
day 1 Frames
No written instructions for this, its all online, but lots of it
first impressions
The frames are 2.5mm ply, and quite good quality, the laser cuts are clean, and the pieces can be pushed out quite easily, but on test fitting, all the joints are quite sloppy, and care is needed to ensure, each frame is kept as tight as possible, they are  made up of at least 4 pieces, some are five
Centre line why have one piece when you can have four. i quess it saves warping, but its a bit daft, considering as above all the joints are quite sloppy, side plates are added to add strength to the join
bow and stern sections have been made up as well, again, well glued, because as soon as they are raised vertical to the centre line the bits fall off





 
 

Far too many distractions but Ive been getting bits done here and there.
 last two bits of PE were a puzzle.

The instructions show P4 as mounted on the turret but not where. 

The helpful photos provided by Patrick once again came in very handy and confirmed that there is nothing similar on the real machine.
Again P9 is supposed to be situated in front of the driver’s hatch but the photos show nothing there so these pieces have been omitted.

That done the tank was ready for paint touch up and a gloss coat ready for the decals. The decals came off the backing paper nicely and laid down smoothly.
 spade was added and the towing cable. The kit supplies a length of braided wire for this but no indication of placement or length. Once again those photos …… Many thanks again @Baker
The wire looked under scale and too springy to use easily so I substituted a piece of rigging cord painted light grey (galvanized I assume) and added the kit supplied eyes to each end. This was added to the front deck and suddenly it was obvious what some of the PE bits were for.
ive used some diluted buff acrylic paint to simulate a light coat of road dust. I can’t imagine that peacetime tanks were encouraged to be scruffy.

I enjoyed building this kit and actually found it to be easier but still well detailed compared to the Flyhawk kits. I’m very tempted to try another Vespid kit but I’m trying to hold to a moratorium on buying anything else until the pile is reduced.
Many thanks for looking in, for the likes and very helpful support.
Over to the little drummer boy now I think.
alan

Very nice finished boat! Well done, love the colors also
 

Thanks guys!  Really appreciate the kind words!
 
One point I forgot to mention earlier.  I think someone had mentioned problems with super glue causing wood areas not to pick up stain.  I was very careful with my glue applications and sanding to make sure that I didn't have any stray CA on the stained areas.  I did have a couple of small areas that didn't pick up stain very well, despite plenty of sanding.  I think this might have been due to the fact that the kit wood is plywood.  So, it's possible that I had sanded down the top layer to the adhesive between the first and second layer, which would probably cause the same issue of the stain not completely penetrating.  Just a thought and probably worth remembering should I work with plywood in the future.

Finished!  
 
Somewhere I think I read that this kit takes about 20 hours to build.  It probably took me 40-50.  I had to backtrack a bit and rebuild the hull because the stem and stern settled off kilter.  With the super glue method of construction, it was fairly easy to pop off the planks, sand off the glue, and re-glue.  For paints and stains, I used the following:
 
Unpainted sections:  I used a combination of Minwax Golden Oak for most of the interior, and Minwax Gunstock for the rails, seats, frames, etc.  These were sealed with Minwax Polycrylic clear semi-gloss.
 
Painted sections:  I primed all painted sections with Rust-Oleum Flat Gray.  The white was done using Rust-Oleum Heirloom White, which I liked because it was a softer, almost cream white instead of a stark white.  I originally used Rust-Oleum Charcoal Gray for the black sections, but I thought it was too light for what was supposed to be carbon fiber.  So, I ended up spraying with a 2:1 mixture of Tamiya Nato Gray/Tamiya Flat Black.  I then cleared with Rust-Oleum Clear Semi-Gloss.
 
All in all, this was a really fun kit that used different construction methods than we typically use in wooden model ship building - so, I certainly learned a lot.  I would definitely recommend it (or the other CLC kits) if you're looking for a quick palette-cleanser.
 
It's a fairly long model, so my apologies for the poor pictures - best I could do!
 
Thanks for looking in!
 









 

Well that was quick, the assemblies went together better than I thought.  
So here are the final round of pictures, calling this one finished!  
Thanks to everyone who followed along and commented or liked.
 
I think I have the need for another Non-ship build, will start a log soon, a 1/48 Fairey Gannet. 😁

Good morning everyone!
 
Things have gone reasonably well over the last little while. After the lettering was finished I began to add all the extraneous little details, Propellors, landing gear, bomb bay doors, aerial masts and whatnot.
 

 

 
A not too involved process. The landing gear went better than I expected, for once the parts actually fit as designed! After a final touch up, I sealed everything with a layer of Testors' Dullcote. And then the fun of removing all the masking from the glazing. The turret glass required a little studious work with a tooth pick to get rid of a couple of spots where the paint bled, but the nose and canopy area came out clean and crisp.
 

 

 

 
From a lower angle it kinda looks like some of the photos I've seen of Bollys stuffed and mounted in museums:
 

 

 
Overall, I think I managed alight. Not the best result, but given the fitment challenges with this kit, it will do. The bright yellow paint definitely highlights things we'd rather not see. (Yeah some of those seams could have been better, but from a distance, and in natural light they don't show so badly). I would say that this is not the best kit offering from Airfix, this is perhaps one that deserves a bit of a revisit in terms of their design work and tooling, as they are reissuing the Blenheim Mk I this year, it obviously must be a somewhat popular kit.
 
Anyway, a quick final shot of my Bristol collection so far:
 

 
I may do a little weathering yet, but I'm happy to call this one done.
 
Thanks to all who have been following along, leaving kind comments and "likes", your support and feedback is always greatly appreciated!
 
Andy
 
 

good evening everyone
Track Base
 
spent the last few days working on the base,
i read that if the barrel to reduced to the correct size i will only need 3x30cm beds and the end caps so thats what i have gone with
i had been hoping to use some trumpeter rolling stock on it as well but the track width distances are quite a way out,

in grey primer and black top coat

ballast reds

 
and greys

paints used for the wood XF-78 wooden deck tan
oils burnt umber

 
 
 

 


 

Good morning everyone
 
Track bed (rail)
 
The kit comes with aluminium rails, which have been primed and then painted in Red Ochre, the running surfaces will then be cleaned off
 
I put some of the units together to see what the effect would be when complete,- the jury is out, looks far to clean

lol Maybe you are looking at the wrong modelling site, these are my slippers which have so far not been destroyed by the boi's 

Good morning everyone
Thank you for comments and likes
 
lesson learnt - Just because it is on yr bucket list- does not mean you have to buy and build
 
yep to all those who said its just a very and expensive, badly detailed kit = i fully agree
 
but i continue
 
Apart from the barrel and all the to be replaced walkways, the rest of the kit now sits on the bogies
 
Ihe two large side links are supposed to be separate units, and connected by a link system forward and aft so that they can move at different angles on curves, In the centre between the linkages are two large box sections , the after one is two halves where as the forward on is strangely only one section ( its the unit in the photo  with the three large holes(, i have left it to late to do surgery on this, in real life chains were used to keep them from separating, being one piece would prevent it whole assembly from moving on a radius  
 

 

 

 
 




i will cover the breech assembly in the next update 
 
 

Thank you all for your interest so far in the build.
 
It has gone together very well so far and I thought a few pictures of progress so far were needed before I forget to take any pictures!  One of the things I wanted to try and replicate was the linen/red dope interior look.  As discussed in post#11 above, on smaller aircraft this could be patchy, I did a base coat in a pale yellow for the linen and then a patch application of dull red for the dope.  My source for this look being an unrestored Hurricane that looks this way.  It looks a bit bright to me, but once mostly hidden by the fuselage framing and then closed up, not much will be seen anyway.
 
The tubular framing was all pre-airbrushed before assembly, as it is quite a complicated structure.  Used a little dry brush and washes to bring out some details, a handful of microscopic decals also applied, but you can hardly see them!
 
Thanks for looking in and the comments and "likes".

After a long break, I'm finally getting back to work.
Thanks to Jeff's tip, I've been thinking about the deck being too high and how to deal with it. I also created the remaining 12-pounders.
And since it's very monotonous, it took quite a while.
 

 
They stand beautifully in rows.
 

 
And again, Jeff, you're not annoying at all. I'm very grateful for your advice, as it helps me avoid such annoying mistakes. What would be the point of a model building forum if you couldn't build on the experiences of others?
And so I simply shortened the carriage of the eight guns that go below deck.
 

 
Let’s move on to the next conversion. Again, I liked the MK set better than the one from Pontos. Since I will be showing all the gun port covers open, I thought the rope shown was very nice.
What I changed are the hinges. Since they fold down when open, I simply replaced them with a narrow piece of profile.
 

 
This is what it looks like for me. I used a slightly lighter grey to accentuate it.
 

 
And attached to the gun ports.
These are the first external structures. Since it is inevitable that the gun barrels will stick out here, I wanted to have them attached already.
 

 
And so the eight 12 pounders could take their place.
 

 
A few boxes are still missing.
 

 
And so I am quite happy with the position of the guns.
 

 
Now they urgently need the protection of my sheet pile wall. After applying the clear varnish, I will screw it to the dry dock . I am curious to see if I will tear it down again before the construction is finished. 😵‍💫