bartley
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bartley got a reaction from glbarlow in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
Glenn,
I have these scrapers. They are good but I find them far too big for the scale we are working at. I used jewelers files to cut a profile into the back of a annealed hacksaw blade. I think I might have also used a jewelers saw. There are several posts on this site about this technique.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Silkjc in Blackening revisited
Justin,
Yes, disposal is always an issue. I am a professional chemist and so disposal is part of our trade. Sparex once dissolved is essentially sulfuric acid. So to dispose of it you should pour it slowly into bicarbonate. It will fizz so do it slowly. Once the fizzing stops the Sparex is neutralized and you can dispose of it down the sink, The blackening solution is another matter. This, when fresh, is selenious acid. When you use it it is converted to black selenium metal and copper sulfate That's the blue colour. But you cant neutralise or destroy the selenium. or copper. So a spent solution contains selenium in one form or another and copper sulfate. Neither of these is too good for the environment but you only have small quantities. You shouldn't dispose of it down the sink so absorbing onto paper and burying it is probably OK. Over here we can take such things to a toxic chemicals disposal site.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Silkjc in Blackening revisited
I actually posted this elsewhere but it is probably more appropriate here.
This is an example of a blackening problem which others may have experienced without knowing the reason.
These belaying pins were sold as being brass so on the right I used my usual technique of treating for 5 min with sodium hydrogen sulfate then blackening. Even after about 1 min the result was poor.
On reflection they were very shiny so were probably lacquered. So on the left the treatment was: - rub with steel wool, soak in acetone for about 1 min, 5 min in sodium hydrogen sulfate then blackening. After only for 10 sec the result was excellent.
Incidentally, Sparex is just a very expensive packet of sodium hydrogen sulfate. So if you have access to the chemical itself it is much cheaper
John
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bartley got a reaction from thibaultron in Blackening revisited
Justin,
Yes, disposal is always an issue. I am a professional chemist and so disposal is part of our trade. Sparex once dissolved is essentially sulfuric acid. So to dispose of it you should pour it slowly into bicarbonate. It will fizz so do it slowly. Once the fizzing stops the Sparex is neutralized and you can dispose of it down the sink, The blackening solution is another matter. This, when fresh, is selenious acid. When you use it it is converted to black selenium metal and copper sulfate That's the blue colour. But you cant neutralise or destroy the selenium. or copper. So a spent solution contains selenium in one form or another and copper sulfate. Neither of these is too good for the environment but you only have small quantities. You shouldn't dispose of it down the sink so absorbing onto paper and burying it is probably OK. Over here we can take such things to a toxic chemicals disposal site.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Blackening revisited
Justin,
Yes, disposal is always an issue. I am a professional chemist and so disposal is part of our trade. Sparex once dissolved is essentially sulfuric acid. So to dispose of it you should pour it slowly into bicarbonate. It will fizz so do it slowly. Once the fizzing stops the Sparex is neutralized and you can dispose of it down the sink, The blackening solution is another matter. This, when fresh, is selenious acid. When you use it it is converted to black selenium metal and copper sulfate That's the blue colour. But you cant neutralise or destroy the selenium. or copper. So a spent solution contains selenium in one form or another and copper sulfate. Neither of these is too good for the environment but you only have small quantities. You shouldn't dispose of it down the sink so absorbing onto paper and burying it is probably OK. Over here we can take such things to a toxic chemicals disposal site.
John
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bartley got a reaction from thibaultron in Blackening revisited
I actually posted this elsewhere but it is probably more appropriate here.
This is an example of a blackening problem which others may have experienced without knowing the reason.
These belaying pins were sold as being brass so on the right I used my usual technique of treating for 5 min with sodium hydrogen sulfate then blackening. Even after about 1 min the result was poor.
On reflection they were very shiny so were probably lacquered. So on the left the treatment was: - rub with steel wool, soak in acetone for about 1 min, 5 min in sodium hydrogen sulfate then blackening. After only for 10 sec the result was excellent.
Incidentally, Sparex is just a very expensive packet of sodium hydrogen sulfate. So if you have access to the chemical itself it is much cheaper
John
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bartley got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
The continuing saga of the belaying pins!
I can make boxwood ones down to close to 1 mm in diameter at the lower end but for me consistency is the problem If I just had to make one I would be quite happy but 20 odd? I am not sure I have the patience or the skill. Here is a pic of mine versus the commercial ones:
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bartley reacted to MEDDO in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
The shape of the long brass ones look good but I would see if there would be a way to practice more to make your own. Maybe a justification for some new tools 🙄 fancy new lathe maybe...
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bartley got a reaction from Ryland Craze in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
The continuing saga of the belaying pins!
I can make boxwood ones down to close to 1 mm in diameter at the lower end but for me consistency is the problem If I just had to make one I would be quite happy but 20 odd? I am not sure I have the patience or the skill. Here is a pic of mine versus the commercial ones:
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
Thanks for putting this together. It is reassuring to know that what I am doing is more or less the same as what you are doing.
I think that a good safety tip is to "rehearse the cut". By which I mean push the wood through without the saw running. Especially if you haven't used the saw for a while or it is a cut you haven't done for a while. A couple of times I found that I had inadvertently moved the saw or stored something at the exit end that would have stopped the wood exiting freely.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
The continuing saga of the belaying pins!
I can make boxwood ones down to close to 1 mm in diameter at the lower end but for me consistency is the problem If I just had to make one I would be quite happy but 20 odd? I am not sure I have the patience or the skill. Here is a pic of mine versus the commercial ones:
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
It sounds like you only do ripping using the slitting blade. Of course that is what your post is about. The blade which comes with the machine is a cross-cut blade which I use quite a bit. Magic for cutting reproducible lengths. Incidentally I found that a zero clearance insert for the slitting blade improved the quality of my ripped planks enormously especial if I was cutting narrow ones,
John
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bartley got a reaction from Chuck Seiler in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
It sounds like you only do ripping using the slitting blade. Of course that is what your post is about. The blade which comes with the machine is a cross-cut blade which I use quite a bit. Magic for cutting reproducible lengths. Incidentally I found that a zero clearance insert for the slitting blade improved the quality of my ripped planks enormously especial if I was cutting narrow ones,
John
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bartley got a reaction from glbarlow in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
It sounds like you only do ripping using the slitting blade. Of course that is what your post is about. The blade which comes with the machine is a cross-cut blade which I use quite a bit. Magic for cutting reproducible lengths. Incidentally I found that a zero clearance insert for the slitting blade improved the quality of my ripped planks enormously especial if I was cutting narrow ones,
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
Thanks for putting this together. It is reassuring to know that what I am doing is more or less the same as what you are doing.
I think that a good safety tip is to "rehearse the cut". By which I mean push the wood through without the saw running. Especially if you haven't used the saw for a while or it is a cut you haven't done for a while. A couple of times I found that I had inadvertently moved the saw or stored something at the exit end that would have stopped the wood exiting freely.
John
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bartley got a reaction from glbarlow in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
Thanks for putting this together. It is reassuring to know that what I am doing is more or less the same as what you are doing.
I think that a good safety tip is to "rehearse the cut". By which I mean push the wood through without the saw running. Especially if you haven't used the saw for a while or it is a cut you haven't done for a while. A couple of times I found that I had inadvertently moved the saw or stored something at the exit end that would have stopped the wood exiting freely.
John
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bartley got a reaction from druxey in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
Thanks for putting this together. It is reassuring to know that what I am doing is more or less the same as what you are doing.
I think that a good safety tip is to "rehearse the cut". By which I mean push the wood through without the saw running. Especially if you haven't used the saw for a while or it is a cut you haven't done for a while. A couple of times I found that I had inadvertently moved the saw or stored something at the exit end that would have stopped the wood exiting freely.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
Thanks for putting this together. It is reassuring to know that what I am doing is more or less the same as what you are doing.
I think that a good safety tip is to "rehearse the cut". By which I mean push the wood through without the saw running. Especially if you haven't used the saw for a while or it is a cut you haven't done for a while. A couple of times I found that I had inadvertently moved the saw or stored something at the exit end that would have stopped the wood exiting freely.
John
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bartley got a reaction from VTHokiEE in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
Thanks for putting this together. It is reassuring to know that what I am doing is more or less the same as what you are doing.
I think that a good safety tip is to "rehearse the cut". By which I mean push the wood through without the saw running. Especially if you haven't used the saw for a while or it is a cut you haven't done for a while. A couple of times I found that I had inadvertently moved the saw or stored something at the exit end that would have stopped the wood exiting freely.
John
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bartley got a reaction from MEDDO in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
Thanks for putting this together. It is reassuring to know that what I am doing is more or less the same as what you are doing.
I think that a good safety tip is to "rehearse the cut". By which I mean push the wood through without the saw running. Especially if you haven't used the saw for a while or it is a cut you haven't done for a while. A couple of times I found that I had inadvertently moved the saw or stored something at the exit end that would have stopped the wood exiting freely.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Matrim in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Interesting Glenn,
When I innocently posted this photo in my log last year:
I got lots of PM's about how dangerous it was.
Here is one of my responses:
"Yes, You are correct. this is not the recommended way but many people use this technique and I am not an experienced user of table saws either so was a bit concerned . So I asked Jim Byrnes about this and he replied that ripping between the blade and the fence was the way to go . Apparently there is a very small offset at the rear of the fence to minimize the chances of kickback.
I used a block of wood on the left hand side behind the blade to push the billet against the fence and then used a push stick once the billet was on the table. There was no evidence of any kick back in the forty odd planks that I cut. Of course you don't need to move the fence if you do it this way and so I imagine the reproducibility is better. Incidentally, Chuck does it this way and he must have cut tens of thousands of planks."
John
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
A year ago I was new to table saws myself. If you read books or watch videos on the operation of full-sized table saws you will find that they all recommend that the safe way to avoid kickback is to cut thin strips on the outside of the blade. this was why I was concerned initially. but after the recommendations of Jim, Chuck and Jefff from HobbyMill I began doing the way you do it with some slight variations in the exact technique and have never had a problem. An important point is never yo but any sideways pressure on the back (exit end] of the blade. So for example a push stick must be pushed straight through with no sideways pressure.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Interesting Glenn,
When I innocently posted this photo in my log last year:
I got lots of PM's about how dangerous it was.
Here is one of my responses:
"Yes, You are correct. this is not the recommended way but many people use this technique and I am not an experienced user of table saws either so was a bit concerned . So I asked Jim Byrnes about this and he replied that ripping between the blade and the fence was the way to go . Apparently there is a very small offset at the rear of the fence to minimize the chances of kickback.
I used a block of wood on the left hand side behind the blade to push the billet against the fence and then used a push stick once the billet was on the table. There was no evidence of any kick back in the forty odd planks that I cut. Of course you don't need to move the fence if you do it this way and so I imagine the reproducibility is better. Incidentally, Chuck does it this way and he must have cut tens of thousands of planks."
John
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
With the longer stock all I find I need to do is to provide a bit more support at the end of a table. The problem is the longer plank tilts up as it goes off the end of the table. I just have a block of wood the same height as the table which supports the plank as it comes off the table.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Glenn,
A year ago I was new to table saws myself. If you read books or watch videos on the operation of full-sized table saws you will find that they all recommend that the safe way to avoid kickback is to cut thin strips on the outside of the blade. this was why I was concerned initially. but after the recommendations of Jim, Chuck and Jefff from HobbyMill I began doing the way you do it with some slight variations in the exact technique and have never had a problem. An important point is never yo but any sideways pressure on the back (exit end] of the blade. So for example a push stick must be pushed straight through with no sideways pressure.
John
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