bartley

Post 30:  Eyebolts and Cleats
 
there are a number of eyebolts and several cleats to be installed and this has occupied me for the last few days.  I am always concerned about these commercial eyebolts pulling out when the tension is axial. When the tension is at right angles there is not a b problem of course and here most of the deck ringbolts are not used.

It has only really happened to me a couple of times but can a real pain if it happens late in the rigging process when the deck is not so accessible so I make my own by the "twisted pair" method.  This is copper which is a bit soft but I cannot access brass in very many diameters. After they are made they are chemically blackened of course

These were made from 24 gauge wire twisted around a 1.4 mm drill.  For bolts with a ring.  For bolts with a ring a 1.0 mm drill was used with the ring in the eye of the bolt.  Rings were made by winding 24 gauge wire around a 2mm drill to form a spiral and then snipping it down the center.

For the gun tackle eyebolts  again a 1 mm drill was used.
 
Here is a picture showing the  the deck eyebolts

There are several cleats along the bulwarks and for these Syren cleats were used with a bit of shaping to give a reasonable appearance. (see the image in the previous post).
 
John
 
 
 

Glen,
Your planking is excellent.  Much better than mine which has a few deficiencies but because I was using boxwood and my supplies were limited I could not afford to rip off too many planks!
 
On the subject of beveling - I am sure you know this as your planking is so good but perhaps for the benefit of others over beveling can be as bad as no beveling if you have to sand the hull much.  So I think it needs to be reasonably correct.
 
                               
 
 

Post 30:  Eyebolts and Cleats
 
there are a number of eyebolts and several cleats to be installed and this has occupied me for the last few days.  I am always concerned about these commercial eyebolts pulling out when the tension is axial. When the tension is at right angles there is not a b problem of course and here most of the deck ringbolts are not used.

It has only really happened to me a couple of times but can a real pain if it happens late in the rigging process when the deck is not so accessible so I make my own by the "twisted pair" method.  This is copper which is a bit soft but I cannot access brass in very many diameters. After they are made they are chemically blackened of course

These were made from 24 gauge wire twisted around a 1.4 mm drill.  For bolts with a ring.  For bolts with a ring a 1.0 mm drill was used with the ring in the eye of the bolt.  Rings were made by winding 24 gauge wire around a 2mm drill to form a spiral and then snipping it down the center.

For the gun tackle eyebolts  again a 1 mm drill was used.
 
Here is a picture showing the  the deck eyebolts

There are several cleats along the bulwarks and for these Syren cleats were used with a bit of shaping to give a reasonable appearance. (see the image in the previous post).
 
John
 
 
 

Post 30:  Eyebolts and Cleats
 
there are a number of eyebolts and several cleats to be installed and this has occupied me for the last few days.  I am always concerned about these commercial eyebolts pulling out when the tension is axial. When the tension is at right angles there is not a b problem of course and here most of the deck ringbolts are not used.

It has only really happened to me a couple of times but can a real pain if it happens late in the rigging process when the deck is not so accessible so I make my own by the "twisted pair" method.  This is copper which is a bit soft but I cannot access brass in very many diameters. After they are made they are chemically blackened of course

These were made from 24 gauge wire twisted around a 1.4 mm drill.  For bolts with a ring.  For bolts with a ring a 1.0 mm drill was used with the ring in the eye of the bolt.  Rings were made by winding 24 gauge wire around a 2mm drill to form a spiral and then snipping it down the center.

For the gun tackle eyebolts  again a 1 mm drill was used.
 
Here is a picture showing the  the deck eyebolts

There are several cleats along the bulwarks and for these Syren cleats were used with a bit of shaping to give a reasonable appearance. (see the image in the previous post).
 
John
 
 
 

Post 30:  Eyebolts and Cleats
 
there are a number of eyebolts and several cleats to be installed and this has occupied me for the last few days.  I am always concerned about these commercial eyebolts pulling out when the tension is axial. When the tension is at right angles there is not a b problem of course and here most of the deck ringbolts are not used.

It has only really happened to me a couple of times but can a real pain if it happens late in the rigging process when the deck is not so accessible so I make my own by the "twisted pair" method.  This is copper which is a bit soft but I cannot access brass in very many diameters. After they are made they are chemically blackened of course

These were made from 24 gauge wire twisted around a 1.4 mm drill.  For bolts with a ring.  For bolts with a ring a 1.0 mm drill was used with the ring in the eye of the bolt.  Rings were made by winding 24 gauge wire around a 2mm drill to form a spiral and then snipping it down the center.

For the gun tackle eyebolts  again a 1 mm drill was used.
 
Here is a picture showing the  the deck eyebolts

There are several cleats along the bulwarks and for these Syren cleats were used with a bit of shaping to give a reasonable appearance. (see the image in the previous post).
 
John
 
 
 

Post 30:  Eyebolts and Cleats
 
there are a number of eyebolts and several cleats to be installed and this has occupied me for the last few days.  I am always concerned about these commercial eyebolts pulling out when the tension is axial. When the tension is at right angles there is not a b problem of course and here most of the deck ringbolts are not used.

It has only really happened to me a couple of times but can a real pain if it happens late in the rigging process when the deck is not so accessible so I make my own by the "twisted pair" method.  This is copper which is a bit soft but I cannot access brass in very many diameters. After they are made they are chemically blackened of course

These were made from 24 gauge wire twisted around a 1.4 mm drill.  For bolts with a ring.  For bolts with a ring a 1.0 mm drill was used with the ring in the eye of the bolt.  Rings were made by winding 24 gauge wire around a 2mm drill to form a spiral and then snipping it down the center.

For the gun tackle eyebolts  again a 1 mm drill was used.
 
Here is a picture showing the  the deck eyebolts

There are several cleats along the bulwarks and for these Syren cleats were used with a bit of shaping to give a reasonable appearance. (see the image in the previous post).
 
John
 
 
 

Post 30:  Eyebolts and Cleats
 
there are a number of eyebolts and several cleats to be installed and this has occupied me for the last few days.  I am always concerned about these commercial eyebolts pulling out when the tension is axial. When the tension is at right angles there is not a b problem of course and here most of the deck ringbolts are not used.

It has only really happened to me a couple of times but can a real pain if it happens late in the rigging process when the deck is not so accessible so I make my own by the "twisted pair" method.  This is copper which is a bit soft but I cannot access brass in very many diameters. After they are made they are chemically blackened of course

These were made from 24 gauge wire twisted around a 1.4 mm drill.  For bolts with a ring.  For bolts with a ring a 1.0 mm drill was used with the ring in the eye of the bolt.  Rings were made by winding 24 gauge wire around a 2mm drill to form a spiral and then snipping it down the center.

For the gun tackle eyebolts  again a 1 mm drill was used.
 
Here is a picture showing the  the deck eyebolts

There are several cleats along the bulwarks and for these Syren cleats were used with a bit of shaping to give a reasonable appearance. (see the image in the previous post).
 
John
 
 
 

Post 30:  Eyebolts and Cleats
 
there are a number of eyebolts and several cleats to be installed and this has occupied me for the last few days.  I am always concerned about these commercial eyebolts pulling out when the tension is axial. When the tension is at right angles there is not a b problem of course and here most of the deck ringbolts are not used.

It has only really happened to me a couple of times but can a real pain if it happens late in the rigging process when the deck is not so accessible so I make my own by the "twisted pair" method.  This is copper which is a bit soft but I cannot access brass in very many diameters. After they are made they are chemically blackened of course

These were made from 24 gauge wire twisted around a 1.4 mm drill.  For bolts with a ring.  For bolts with a ring a 1.0 mm drill was used with the ring in the eye of the bolt.  Rings were made by winding 24 gauge wire around a 2mm drill to form a spiral and then snipping it down the center.

For the gun tackle eyebolts  again a 1 mm drill was used.
 
Here is a picture showing the  the deck eyebolts

There are several cleats along the bulwarks and for these Syren cleats were used with a bit of shaping to give a reasonable appearance. (see the image in the previous post).
 
John
 
 
 

Post 30:  Eyebolts and Cleats
 
there are a number of eyebolts and several cleats to be installed and this has occupied me for the last few days.  I am always concerned about these commercial eyebolts pulling out when the tension is axial. When the tension is at right angles there is not a b problem of course and here most of the deck ringbolts are not used.

It has only really happened to me a couple of times but can a real pain if it happens late in the rigging process when the deck is not so accessible so I make my own by the "twisted pair" method.  This is copper which is a bit soft but I cannot access brass in very many diameters. After they are made they are chemically blackened of course

These were made from 24 gauge wire twisted around a 1.4 mm drill.  For bolts with a ring.  For bolts with a ring a 1.0 mm drill was used with the ring in the eye of the bolt.  Rings were made by winding 24 gauge wire around a 2mm drill to form a spiral and then snipping it down the center.

For the gun tackle eyebolts  again a 1 mm drill was used.
 
Here is a picture showing the  the deck eyebolts

There are several cleats along the bulwarks and for these Syren cleats were used with a bit of shaping to give a reasonable appearance. (see the image in the previous post).
 
John
 
 
 

Post 29: Seats of Ease, Knees etc
 
There are three parts to the seats of ease, top, side and front.  There are some tricky angles involved.. I had taken an overhead photograph of my hull and I used this to obtain the profile of the top:
 
.One has to be careful about using such photos.  Most zoom lenses and phones suffer from barrel distortion.  So if you photograph the end of your room for example the walls will bow outward.  Clearly, this makes taking a profile from  such photographs inaccurate.  I used a prime lens which suffers less from distortion and then Photoshop knows which lens you used and can correct for any distortion remaining. Anyway I did make a card template first but the profile was so close that I went straight to the 1/32  timber.  For the sides I used the profile from the transom frame Y and this was accurate enough as well.  For the ends I first made a long piece extending from port to starboard matching the deck profile and making sure it was the same height on each side.  Then I cut the required section next to the bulwark on each side.

 
After assembly I checked that the heights were equal using my digital protractor.  One of the advantages of these is that the hull does not need to be exactly level.  I know my gunwales are level so I first placed the level between the gunwales and zeroed the device then bridging across the seats I could check the angle

 
In fact the angle flicked between zero and 0.05.  So even in the higher angle the difference in height works out to be only 0.06 mm
 
The curve of the transom knees was obtained from the plan and the approximate angle from my overhead photo but the biggest challenge was shaping them to fit the angle of the internal transom frames.  This was trial and error and I found that a had to do a bit of reshaping of the transom frames themselves.  obviously this should have been done earlier but I did not predict the problem until I tried to fit the knees.  so here is the inboard of the stern showing those features.

The horse for the boom sheet was fashioned from 1.2 mm wire and washers were made from light card as  suggested by Chuck.  The cleats are from siren and have been left natural at this stage.  I know Chuck point out that contemporary models show them painted red.  However, any any boat I owned which had wooden cleats we found it impossible to keep any protective coating, paint or varnish on thembecause of the friction from the rope.  Modern synthetic rope is not so bad but hemp is like sandpaper.  I can always decide to paint them later.
 
John
 
 
 

Post 28: Timberheads
Once again Chuck describes how to make these.  I made them in pairs (oort and starboard) so that they matched as closely as possible.  I measured the angle with my digital protractor:

This got me started but in the end I eyeballed it.  It is surprising how a very small difference in angle is noticeable.

You will also notice that I have installed the scuppers. Here rather than just use a hole as indicated on the plans I used rivets to fill the holes .  These are used on electronic circuit boards and have an internal diameter of 1 mm and fit into a 1.6 mm hole. I blackened them first of course.
 

 

Post 27:  Boom Crutches
 
I found these tricky.  The procedure for constructing them is well described in Chuck's post so as I tried to follow this I don't see a point in repeating his excellent description.  Nevertheless, several attempts ended up in the bin before I obtained something reasonable and even now they are far from perfectly matched.  Fortunately the black paint hides a multitude of sins!
 

John

Post 29: Seats of Ease, Knees etc
 
There are three parts to the seats of ease, top, side and front.  There are some tricky angles involved.. I had taken an overhead photograph of my hull and I used this to obtain the profile of the top:
 
.One has to be careful about using such photos.  Most zoom lenses and phones suffer from barrel distortion.  So if you photograph the end of your room for example the walls will bow outward.  Clearly, this makes taking a profile from  such photographs inaccurate.  I used a prime lens which suffers less from distortion and then Photoshop knows which lens you used and can correct for any distortion remaining. Anyway I did make a card template first but the profile was so close that I went straight to the 1/32  timber.  For the sides I used the profile from the transom frame Y and this was accurate enough as well.  For the ends I first made a long piece extending from port to starboard matching the deck profile and making sure it was the same height on each side.  Then I cut the required section next to the bulwark on each side.

 
After assembly I checked that the heights were equal using my digital protractor.  One of the advantages of these is that the hull does not need to be exactly level.  I know my gunwales are level so I first placed the level between the gunwales and zeroed the device then bridging across the seats I could check the angle

 
In fact the angle flicked between zero and 0.05.  So even in the higher angle the difference in height works out to be only 0.06 mm
 
The curve of the transom knees was obtained from the plan and the approximate angle from my overhead photo but the biggest challenge was shaping them to fit the angle of the internal transom frames.  This was trial and error and I found that a had to do a bit of reshaping of the transom frames themselves.  obviously this should have been done earlier but I did not predict the problem until I tried to fit the knees.  so here is the inboard of the stern showing those features.

The horse for the boom sheet was fashioned from 1.2 mm wire and washers were made from light card as  suggested by Chuck.  The cleats are from siren and have been left natural at this stage.  I know Chuck point out that contemporary models show them painted red.  However, any any boat I owned which had wooden cleats we found it impossible to keep any protective coating, paint or varnish on thembecause of the friction from the rope.  Modern synthetic rope is not so bad but hemp is like sandpaper.  I can always decide to paint them later.
 
John
 
 
 

Post 29: Seats of Ease, Knees etc
 
There are three parts to the seats of ease, top, side and front.  There are some tricky angles involved.. I had taken an overhead photograph of my hull and I used this to obtain the profile of the top:
 
.One has to be careful about using such photos.  Most zoom lenses and phones suffer from barrel distortion.  So if you photograph the end of your room for example the walls will bow outward.  Clearly, this makes taking a profile from  such photographs inaccurate.  I used a prime lens which suffers less from distortion and then Photoshop knows which lens you used and can correct for any distortion remaining. Anyway I did make a card template first but the profile was so close that I went straight to the 1/32  timber.  For the sides I used the profile from the transom frame Y and this was accurate enough as well.  For the ends I first made a long piece extending from port to starboard matching the deck profile and making sure it was the same height on each side.  Then I cut the required section next to the bulwark on each side.

 
After assembly I checked that the heights were equal using my digital protractor.  One of the advantages of these is that the hull does not need to be exactly level.  I know my gunwales are level so I first placed the level between the gunwales and zeroed the device then bridging across the seats I could check the angle

 
In fact the angle flicked between zero and 0.05.  So even in the higher angle the difference in height works out to be only 0.06 mm
 
The curve of the transom knees was obtained from the plan and the approximate angle from my overhead photo but the biggest challenge was shaping them to fit the angle of the internal transom frames.  This was trial and error and I found that a had to do a bit of reshaping of the transom frames themselves.  obviously this should have been done earlier but I did not predict the problem until I tried to fit the knees.  so here is the inboard of the stern showing those features.

The horse for the boom sheet was fashioned from 1.2 mm wire and washers were made from light card as  suggested by Chuck.  The cleats are from siren and have been left natural at this stage.  I know Chuck point out that contemporary models show them painted red.  However, any any boat I owned which had wooden cleats we found it impossible to keep any protective coating, paint or varnish on thembecause of the friction from the rope.  Modern synthetic rope is not so bad but hemp is like sandpaper.  I can always decide to paint them later.
 
John
 
 
 

Post 29: Seats of Ease, Knees etc
 
There are three parts to the seats of ease, top, side and front.  There are some tricky angles involved.. I had taken an overhead photograph of my hull and I used this to obtain the profile of the top:
 
.One has to be careful about using such photos.  Most zoom lenses and phones suffer from barrel distortion.  So if you photograph the end of your room for example the walls will bow outward.  Clearly, this makes taking a profile from  such photographs inaccurate.  I used a prime lens which suffers less from distortion and then Photoshop knows which lens you used and can correct for any distortion remaining. Anyway I did make a card template first but the profile was so close that I went straight to the 1/32  timber.  For the sides I used the profile from the transom frame Y and this was accurate enough as well.  For the ends I first made a long piece extending from port to starboard matching the deck profile and making sure it was the same height on each side.  Then I cut the required section next to the bulwark on each side.

 
After assembly I checked that the heights were equal using my digital protractor.  One of the advantages of these is that the hull does not need to be exactly level.  I know my gunwales are level so I first placed the level between the gunwales and zeroed the device then bridging across the seats I could check the angle

 
In fact the angle flicked between zero and 0.05.  So even in the higher angle the difference in height works out to be only 0.06 mm
 
The curve of the transom knees was obtained from the plan and the approximate angle from my overhead photo but the biggest challenge was shaping them to fit the angle of the internal transom frames.  This was trial and error and I found that a had to do a bit of reshaping of the transom frames themselves.  obviously this should have been done earlier but I did not predict the problem until I tried to fit the knees.  so here is the inboard of the stern showing those features.

The horse for the boom sheet was fashioned from 1.2 mm wire and washers were made from light card as  suggested by Chuck.  The cleats are from siren and have been left natural at this stage.  I know Chuck point out that contemporary models show them painted red.  However, any any boat I owned which had wooden cleats we found it impossible to keep any protective coating, paint or varnish on thembecause of the friction from the rope.  Modern synthetic rope is not so bad but hemp is like sandpaper.  I can always decide to paint them later.
 
John
 
 
 

Post 29: Seats of Ease, Knees etc
 
There are three parts to the seats of ease, top, side and front.  There are some tricky angles involved.. I had taken an overhead photograph of my hull and I used this to obtain the profile of the top:
 
.One has to be careful about using such photos.  Most zoom lenses and phones suffer from barrel distortion.  So if you photograph the end of your room for example the walls will bow outward.  Clearly, this makes taking a profile from  such photographs inaccurate.  I used a prime lens which suffers less from distortion and then Photoshop knows which lens you used and can correct for any distortion remaining. Anyway I did make a card template first but the profile was so close that I went straight to the 1/32  timber.  For the sides I used the profile from the transom frame Y and this was accurate enough as well.  For the ends I first made a long piece extending from port to starboard matching the deck profile and making sure it was the same height on each side.  Then I cut the required section next to the bulwark on each side.

 
After assembly I checked that the heights were equal using my digital protractor.  One of the advantages of these is that the hull does not need to be exactly level.  I know my gunwales are level so I first placed the level between the gunwales and zeroed the device then bridging across the seats I could check the angle

 
In fact the angle flicked between zero and 0.05.  So even in the higher angle the difference in height works out to be only 0.06 mm
 
The curve of the transom knees was obtained from the plan and the approximate angle from my overhead photo but the biggest challenge was shaping them to fit the angle of the internal transom frames.  This was trial and error and I found that a had to do a bit of reshaping of the transom frames themselves.  obviously this should have been done earlier but I did not predict the problem until I tried to fit the knees.  so here is the inboard of the stern showing those features.

The horse for the boom sheet was fashioned from 1.2 mm wire and washers were made from light card as  suggested by Chuck.  The cleats are from siren and have been left natural at this stage.  I know Chuck point out that contemporary models show them painted red.  However, any any boat I owned which had wooden cleats we found it impossible to keep any protective coating, paint or varnish on thembecause of the friction from the rope.  Modern synthetic rope is not so bad but hemp is like sandpaper.  I can always decide to paint them later.
 
John
 
 
 

Post 28: Timberheads
Once again Chuck describes how to make these.  I made them in pairs (oort and starboard) so that they matched as closely as possible.  I measured the angle with my digital protractor:

This got me started but in the end I eyeballed it.  It is surprising how a very small difference in angle is noticeable.

You will also notice that I have installed the scuppers. Here rather than just use a hole as indicated on the plans I used rivets to fill the holes .  These are used on electronic circuit boards and have an internal diameter of 1 mm and fit into a 1.6 mm hole. I blackened them first of course.
 

 

Post 28: Timberheads
Once again Chuck describes how to make these.  I made them in pairs (oort and starboard) so that they matched as closely as possible.  I measured the angle with my digital protractor:

This got me started but in the end I eyeballed it.  It is surprising how a very small difference in angle is noticeable.

You will also notice that I have installed the scuppers. Here rather than just use a hole as indicated on the plans I used rivets to fill the holes .  These are used on electronic circuit boards and have an internal diameter of 1 mm and fit into a 1.6 mm hole. I blackened them first of course.
 

 

Post 28: Timberheads
Once again Chuck describes how to make these.  I made them in pairs (oort and starboard) so that they matched as closely as possible.  I measured the angle with my digital protractor:

This got me started but in the end I eyeballed it.  It is surprising how a very small difference in angle is noticeable.

You will also notice that I have installed the scuppers. Here rather than just use a hole as indicated on the plans I used rivets to fill the holes .  These are used on electronic circuit boards and have an internal diameter of 1 mm and fit into a 1.6 mm hole. I blackened them first of course.
 

 

Post 28: Timberheads
Once again Chuck describes how to make these.  I made them in pairs (oort and starboard) so that they matched as closely as possible.  I measured the angle with my digital protractor:

This got me started but in the end I eyeballed it.  It is surprising how a very small difference in angle is noticeable.

You will also notice that I have installed the scuppers. Here rather than just use a hole as indicated on the plans I used rivets to fill the holes .  These are used on electronic circuit boards and have an internal diameter of 1 mm and fit into a 1.6 mm hole. I blackened them first of course.
 

 

Post 28: Timberheads
Once again Chuck describes how to make these.  I made them in pairs (oort and starboard) so that they matched as closely as possible.  I measured the angle with my digital protractor:

This got me started but in the end I eyeballed it.  It is surprising how a very small difference in angle is noticeable.

You will also notice that I have installed the scuppers. Here rather than just use a hole as indicated on the plans I used rivets to fill the holes .  These are used on electronic circuit boards and have an internal diameter of 1 mm and fit into a 1.6 mm hole. I blackened them first of course.
 

 

Post 28: Timberheads
Once again Chuck describes how to make these.  I made them in pairs (oort and starboard) so that they matched as closely as possible.  I measured the angle with my digital protractor:

This got me started but in the end I eyeballed it.  It is surprising how a very small difference in angle is noticeable.

You will also notice that I have installed the scuppers. Here rather than just use a hole as indicated on the plans I used rivets to fill the holes .  These are used on electronic circuit boards and have an internal diameter of 1 mm and fit into a 1.6 mm hole. I blackened them first of course.
 

 

Post 28: Timberheads
Once again Chuck describes how to make these.  I made them in pairs (oort and starboard) so that they matched as closely as possible.  I measured the angle with my digital protractor:

This got me started but in the end I eyeballed it.  It is surprising how a very small difference in angle is noticeable.

You will also notice that I have installed the scuppers. Here rather than just use a hole as indicated on the plans I used rivets to fill the holes .  These are used on electronic circuit boards and have an internal diameter of 1 mm and fit into a 1.6 mm hole. I blackened them first of course.
 

 

Post 27:  Boom Crutches
 
I found these tricky.  The procedure for constructing them is well described in Chuck's post so as I tried to follow this I don't see a point in repeating his excellent description.  Nevertheless, several attempts ended up in the bin before I obtained something reasonable and even now they are far from perfectly matched.  Fortunately the black paint hides a multitude of sins!
 

John

Post 27:  Boom Crutches
 
I found these tricky.  The procedure for constructing them is well described in Chuck's post so as I tried to follow this I don't see a point in repeating his excellent description.  Nevertheless, several attempts ended up in the bin before I obtained something reasonable and even now they are far from perfectly matched.  Fortunately the black paint hides a multitude of sins!
 

John