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Everything posted by rraisley

  1. That is, the metal bands or straps around a wooden multi-piece lower mast, as on the lower masts of the Victory cross-section I am making. I assumed I'd use 1/16" tape for it, so got some in matt black to put on after painting. As my mast is a fairly tight fit through the 5 decks, I was going to use the tape as masking tape for lower decks over black paint, then paint the mast yellow orchre, remove the tape masking and add it permanently for the remainder of the mast, clearing over if required. Seemed like a good idea. I sprayed the bottom of the mask flat black today, and found th
  2. Anyone? So far, I'm leaning towards black, as there are other black details on the quarterdeck, white doesn't seem to look right, and wood/stain is unprotected. But I'd prefer to be accurate.
  3. Another question on painting the Victory: What color should the exposed cross beams be in the open area in the central quarterdeck under the small boats? On the few models I've seen painted in this area, one had black beams and members surrounding the opening, one was all yellow ochre. Videos I've seen of the Victory have this area covered with a fitted tarp, so I can't tell. In the non-open areas of the quarterdeck floor supports (the "ceiling" of the upper gun deck), the beams and underside of the decking are white, while the outer walls of this deck only were yellow ochre. Seems funny that
  4. Thanks for your thoughts. As to the step color, I've seen it done both ways: All steps black, or steps colored the same as the stripes they're in. You're right about no strain on them, of course. I'll probably muck up the painted surfaces with extra glue, but that could be touched up I think.
  5. I'm building Corel's 1:98 scale Victory cross section. I've got the basic hull section complete (unfinished) with all inside detail and painting complete, except the upper gun deck details and top deck and details. I've painted and finished the decks and details on them before putting the next deck in place, because I can't really work on them once they're covered, and that's worked pretty well. I haven't touched the outside yet, however, except for planking. My question is: When do I paint the sides (black & yellow ochre stripes) in particular? They'd be easiest before gluing
  6. I hate Pinterest. They've highjacked about every picture on the Internet, it seems, and half my searches for ship pics go there. Half the time they don't know (certainly don't care) where the picture came from, they just want you to go there to look at all the ads and such. It's really disturbing to find an interesting pic, have it be on Pinterest, then try and fail to find the original or the article that pertains to the pic. Most of my Google Searches now are like "1800s Naval Guns -Pinterest". The "-Pinterest" part will find web pages that are NOT on Pinterest.
  7. I think that's a good decision. I've always stained my decks to the dark side, just liking the look of them. But looking at photos of tall ships, including the Victory, the decks, while clean, have a very sun-bleached and natural look to them. Yours look fine. In fact, if you use a sealer, I'd make sure it's a matt finish; you just don't see shiney decks on old ships.
  8. It's disturbing to see details roughed out by hand looking better than I could do with a lathe or purchased item. Definitely disturbing.😾
  9. If you're interested in Armstrong pattern guns, this site will show scaled drawings for any size you like: http://arc.id.au/ArmstrongPattern.html I have Fusion 360 models for Victory's 32, 24 and 12-pounders. One could be modified to get the 18 pounder. I also have a model made from Hahn's standard plans, which could possibly produce an 18-pounder of that design. Are you looking for 2D plans to turn a model on a lathe, or a 3D STL model to make using a 3D printer?
  10. I've been working with Fusion 360 for a few months now, and am able to model many things fairly well. My son has 2 filament printers and one resin printer, but in printing guns for my 1:98 Victory cross section, has had a lot of problems. MANY failures in resin printing, replacing several film vat bottoms (or whatever they're called) and failed objects. Finally got enough to work for the model. Now he's tried a desktop size barrel, which also failed, and he's basically given up on them for me. All HIS stuff works great, but very few on mine. One problem I've had with th
  11. In the case of the Victory, pig iron blocks were laid between framing members, criss-crossing layers, then covered with pebbles/gravel/small stones. Certainly the pig iron would not move, and the stones had barrels and other items on them, usually held in place by ropes and such. I've included this "feature" in my Victory cross-section, while most similar models just show a bunch of (heavy) stones. I would think that Victory would not be the only warship to use pig iron, although also imagine that it was expensive and possibly not used on commercial ships. http://margaretmuirauthor
  12. I just now tried wrapping some large, soft thread around the mast with wax paper covering it so it doesn't stick, forming the general shape, then puttied in with white glue. Probably paint it a canvas or gray color when done. Making a ring that fits well to the mast, flat to the deck (a temp piece of wood with the right size hole subs for it now, again with wax paper). If it looks okay, I'll put the "ring" in place on final mast install, and think it will be a decent effect.
  13. I've been meaning to ask about mast coats myself. My Victory cross-section includes nothing, and I'd always felt there had to be /something/ to keep it solid and prevent leaks. McKay's books show relative size and shape, but as I'd also read they were covered with waterproof fabric, wasn't sure how best to model them. The wedges shown above make a lot of sense; I assume that area was just then covered with fabric. On my model, adding such a device should help finish it off better, as well as help secure the mast. I was considering using some bent soft wire, even solder, then puttyi
  14. Using the 3D models I've made for Victory's guns, in addition to making them in resin for my 1:98 scale Victory cross section, I intend to make larger desktop models of the 32- and 12-pounders. My original thought was to simply mount the two on a single cherry stand, facing each other at an angle. This would require no rigging blocks or breech line, as there's nothing to attach them to. But I'm also considering mounting each against a small wall section, in which case they would require blocks and such. Does anyone know of a source for larger scale blocks? At this point, I'm doing
  15. So, I'm not only not sure what to call it, but also where to post this. Mods, feel free to move to another forum. I'm looking at ways to support the 1:98 scale HMS Victory cross section model I've been working on, and am considering some kind of simplified wood "building support or ways" or "dry dock" made of scale lumber, such as might have been used during construction of the vessel, or possibly for repairs in dry dock. I know a "real" dry dock would be impossibly large and not add to the model, but have seen some simplified examples, mostly on imported models from China, that lo
  16. The OP's drawing appears to me to be the equivalent of a Patent Application, between Nueva Invención and the format, so may never have been done, at least exactly like the drawing. I don't understand Spanish so can't tell more.
  17. I've completed modeling of the 12-Pounder gun, based on Longridge, Bugler & McKay, as well as Blomefield for barrel dimensions. All sources in this case agree very well. Here are some 3D pics. I'll attach a 1:24 scale 3-View as well, and some other scales, in PDF format. Let me know if you want anything additional. 12-Pounder Views 1-24 Final.pdf 12-Pounder Views 1-48.pdf 12-Pounder Views 1-98.pdf 12-Pounder Views 1-24.pdf
  18. I do agree, Morgan, and that is a concern. However, a search of the Net will find dozens of carriage plans, most of which referring to the recommended plans by Robertson, and later elaborated on and copied by Hahn. Not one I have found has been specific to HMS Victory. Whereas Bugler has fairly well detailed drawings, with dimensions, and elaborate text specifying thickness of material, bolts, cheeks and more, even including what wood was used. Was he measuring the "right" or "correct" gun at the time? One would hope so, given he checked dates on cannon barrels, and seemed to know which were f
  19. I wouldn't call this a "mocked up carriage". It is modeled after drawings made from actual HMS Victory guns and carriages on the Victory during the time of the 20s refit by people interested in preserving history and taking their work quite seriously. This study and publication by Arthur Bugler, who apprenticed on the Victory in 1918, is considered the bible as far as HMS Victory information, selling for over $500 today, and he had the full support, assistance and record of the HMS Victory Society during his work and book publication. As to the trunnion diameter, they do note 6" di
  20. While I can't produce DXF or DWG files, I can produce PDFs. This is the project for the 32-pounder to date. I believe the barrel to be pretty accurate and the carriage as well, although I haven't yet put detail to the carriage, such as bolts, chamfers, capsquares, etc. The outline and such is about the best I can do at this point, and think it is quite accurate. I'll attach scale PDFs in a number of scales. Bugler 32-Pounder Views 1-24 Hidden.pdf Bugler 32-Pounder Views 1-24.pdf Bugler 32-Pounder Views 1-48.pdf Bugler 32-Pounder Views 1-72.pdf Bugler 32-Pounder Views 1-98.pdf
  21. The free-for-hobby use version that I have does not export export dwg or dxf, or I think any 2D files. I'm not doing "blueprints" with dimensions. But I'm happy to make scale PDFs or bitmaps, and can send screen captures of my sketches showing dimensions. BTW, the statement I made that you quoted is when I was working on the Hahn/Robertson style carriage, probably most used by hobbiests, but not apparently on the Victory. I'm working on the Victory carriages now, using Bugler's drawings which mostly agree with McKay.
  22. That sounds like a good idea. But I don't see a place for email in the profile. Unless you just type it in as a comment or something.
  23. The carriages on the Victory are described in Arthur Bugler's HMS Victory: Building, restoration and repair, Chapter 5, Restoration details: as identical for the 32- and 24-pounders, but quite different for the 12-pounder. Both 32- and 24- are noted as having 6" trunnions, and a complete description mentions the cheeks as being 5.5" thick. Yes, I know those dimensions are different than the "standard" proposed by John Robertson in 1775 and most often used in modeling, but all dimensions and arrangement are based on actual measurement of guns from the Victory in 1922. Apparently the
  24. For those interested in the exact profile, we have come up with the following sketch showing the side view profile of the 32- and 24-pounder brackets for HMS Victory's main guns. As mentioned above, this is based mostly on Bugler's dimensioned drawings made during refit of the Victory, confirmed with McKay's drawings, which appear almost identical, and should represent actual gun measurements of Victory weapons "at some time". I can't be specific as to era or manufacture, only that people working on Victory felt this the best representation of this gun, so that's what we're going with. Correct
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