VinceMcCullough
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Canute in Ship holder
Instead of screws or bolts, try using wedges/shins to snug the center board up to the building frame.
Vince
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from mtaylor in Ship holder
Instead of screws or bolts, try using wedges/shins to snug the center board up to the building frame.
Vince
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Bill Tuttle in Sherline model 4400DRO Lathe
I have a Sherline lathe that I subsequently equipped with their DRO as an add-on. It's a huge improvement on counting the number of times that I've cranked the handwheels. I end up with fewer parts spoiled when I lose track of the number of times I've turned the crank.
With regard to portability, the wires unhook readily, so that's not a problem.
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from J T Lombard in Sherline model 4400DRO Lathe
I have a Sherline lathe that I subsequently equipped with their DRO as an add-on. It's a huge improvement on counting the number of times that I've cranked the handwheels. I end up with fewer parts spoiled when I lose track of the number of times I've turned the crank.
With regard to portability, the wires unhook readily, so that's not a problem.
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
Dave
As Mickey Martell used to say, " t'aint a hobby if you gotta hurry."
You'll be back up and making sawdust soon enough.
Vince
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Canute in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
Dave
As Mickey Martell used to say, " t'aint a hobby if you gotta hurry."
You'll be back up and making sawdust soon enough.
Vince
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from mtaylor in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
Dave
As Mickey Martell used to say, " t'aint a hobby if you gotta hurry."
You'll be back up and making sawdust soon enough.
Vince
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Canute in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
Great looking space, Dave! I'm envious!
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from mtaylor in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
Great looking space, Dave! I'm envious!
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Keith Black in Miniature Russian carving tools
I'd like to have his contact info as well.
vince
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Nirvana in Miniature Russian carving tools
I'd like to have his contact info as well.
vince
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from thibaultron in MS Fair American rigging plan leaves alot to be desired.
Allan is correct. The model of the FA at the Naval Academy museum is the basis for all existing model plans. I believe the model is still on display, but if not, I'm sure the curator (Don Preul) would be willing to pull it from storage if you decide to visit.
Vince McCullough
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VinceMcCullough reacted to Matrim in UWEK Triton Build (re-post by mod)
Hallo Russ,
This kind of jig is very often used for complete "full size" models with the big advantage that all frames are really fixed until you finished the complete internal construction.
No movements or widening of the single frames is possible.
You are right with your interpretation of the small notches. These are the limber holes.
In some (really not all) books these holes are shown as the lowest part for collecting the water and the dewatering of the bilge via the Elm Tree pumps.
Have a look at the book from Dodds "Building the Wooden Fighting Ship" about which I made once a book review
Here it is shown:
And the detail in a bigger size:
I do not know if this limber holes where at each ship, or only on bigger ones like the Dodds-74-gunner, only at a special period. In no book in my library about english ships of war this detail is discussed or explained.
The Boudriot books about the french ships are describing this limber holes at most ships.
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from mtaylor in MS Fair American rigging plan leaves alot to be desired.
Allan is correct. The model of the FA at the Naval Academy museum is the basis for all existing model plans. I believe the model is still on display, but if not, I'm sure the curator (Don Preul) would be willing to pull it from storage if you decide to visit.
Vince McCullough
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from dgbot in MS Fair American rigging plan leaves alot to be desired.
Allan is correct. The model of the FA at the Naval Academy museum is the basis for all existing model plans. I believe the model is still on display, but if not, I'm sure the curator (Don Preul) would be willing to pull it from storage if you decide to visit.
Vince McCullough
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Mark Pearse in soldering iron or torch? advice please
I've been silver soldering for several years now using a butane "pencil" torch purchased at one of the big box home centers (Lowes or Home Depot). For solder and flux I buy silver solder paste from a jeweler's supply. I use Rio Grande, but all of the online suppliers carry it. Like the wire, it comes in grades from "extra easy" to "hard," with increasing melting points. The paste itself is a mixture of flux, very fine solder power and an inert grease, and comes in a hypodermic style tube. For most small fittings, I take a fine price of wire and pick up just a trace of paste and apply it to the workpiece where I want the joint (the work should be as clean as possible), hit it with the torch and pickle it once the bond has been made. You can make EXTREMELY small joints this way, like soldering a .3mm ring to the end of a peice of wire to make a railing stantion for a 1/16 scal model.
The pencil touch works for almost every job, as long as it's fairly small. However, if you're working with a larger peice of brass, use a regular plumbers torch with propane or MAP gas. I had to do this to solder blades onto a heavy propellor hub for a 1:64 scale sub. The hub was just to heavy.
BTW, if you are looking for butane, the big box stores sell it where they stock the torches. Same kind of can that you use for lighters.
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from mtaylor in soldering iron or torch? advice please
I've been silver soldering for several years now using a butane "pencil" torch purchased at one of the big box home centers (Lowes or Home Depot). For solder and flux I buy silver solder paste from a jeweler's supply. I use Rio Grande, but all of the online suppliers carry it. Like the wire, it comes in grades from "extra easy" to "hard," with increasing melting points. The paste itself is a mixture of flux, very fine solder power and an inert grease, and comes in a hypodermic style tube. For most small fittings, I take a fine price of wire and pick up just a trace of paste and apply it to the workpiece where I want the joint (the work should be as clean as possible), hit it with the torch and pickle it once the bond has been made. You can make EXTREMELY small joints this way, like soldering a .3mm ring to the end of a peice of wire to make a railing stantion for a 1/16 scal model.
The pencil touch works for almost every job, as long as it's fairly small. However, if you're working with a larger peice of brass, use a regular plumbers torch with propane or MAP gas. I had to do this to solder blades onto a heavy propellor hub for a 1:64 scale sub. The hub was just to heavy.
BTW, if you are looking for butane, the big box stores sell it where they stock the torches. Same kind of can that you use for lighters.
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Canute in soldering iron or torch? advice please
I've been silver soldering for several years now using a butane "pencil" torch purchased at one of the big box home centers (Lowes or Home Depot). For solder and flux I buy silver solder paste from a jeweler's supply. I use Rio Grande, but all of the online suppliers carry it. Like the wire, it comes in grades from "extra easy" to "hard," with increasing melting points. The paste itself is a mixture of flux, very fine solder power and an inert grease, and comes in a hypodermic style tube. For most small fittings, I take a fine price of wire and pick up just a trace of paste and apply it to the workpiece where I want the joint (the work should be as clean as possible), hit it with the torch and pickle it once the bond has been made. You can make EXTREMELY small joints this way, like soldering a .3mm ring to the end of a peice of wire to make a railing stantion for a 1/16 scal model.
The pencil touch works for almost every job, as long as it's fairly small. However, if you're working with a larger peice of brass, use a regular plumbers torch with propane or MAP gas. I had to do this to solder blades onto a heavy propellor hub for a 1:64 scale sub. The hub was just to heavy.
BTW, if you are looking for butane, the big box stores sell it where they stock the torches. Same kind of can that you use for lighters.
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Modeler12 in soldering iron or torch? advice please
I've been silver soldering for several years now using a butane "pencil" torch purchased at one of the big box home centers (Lowes or Home Depot). For solder and flux I buy silver solder paste from a jeweler's supply. I use Rio Grande, but all of the online suppliers carry it. Like the wire, it comes in grades from "extra easy" to "hard," with increasing melting points. The paste itself is a mixture of flux, very fine solder power and an inert grease, and comes in a hypodermic style tube. For most small fittings, I take a fine price of wire and pick up just a trace of paste and apply it to the workpiece where I want the joint (the work should be as clean as possible), hit it with the torch and pickle it once the bond has been made. You can make EXTREMELY small joints this way, like soldering a .3mm ring to the end of a peice of wire to make a railing stantion for a 1/16 scal model.
The pencil touch works for almost every job, as long as it's fairly small. However, if you're working with a larger peice of brass, use a regular plumbers torch with propane or MAP gas. I had to do this to solder blades onto a heavy propellor hub for a 1:64 scale sub. The hub was just to heavy.
BTW, if you are looking for butane, the big box stores sell it where they stock the torches. Same kind of can that you use for lighters.
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from mtaylor in 18th century English Longboat by Chuck - FINISHED - c.1760
I think you're right - the barrel tapers to a cone outboard of the square section. However, I have a hunch that the cone flattens out to a cylindrical cross section that is slightly smaller than the slot it rides in - small enough to fit through the vertical opening. I will probably model it that way.
BTH, I bought four kits. Will be building three as gifts for family members. I should finally know what I'm doing by the time #4 is done.
Vince
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Canute in 18th century English Longboat by Chuck - FINISHED - c.1760
I think you're right - the barrel tapers to a cone outboard of the square section. However, I have a hunch that the cone flattens out to a cylindrical cross section that is slightly smaller than the slot it rides in - small enough to fit through the vertical opening. I will probably model it that way.
BTH, I bought four kits. Will be building three as gifts for family members. I should finally know what I'm doing by the time #4 is done.
Vince
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VinceMcCullough got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th century English Longboat by Chuck - FINISHED - c.1760
I think you're right - the barrel tapers to a cone outboard of the square section. However, I have a hunch that the cone flattens out to a cylindrical cross section that is slightly smaller than the slot it rides in - small enough to fit through the vertical opening. I will probably model it that way.
BTH, I bought four kits. Will be building three as gifts for family members. I should finally know what I'm doing by the time #4 is done.
Vince
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