mojofilter

Hey Man!
Your BN frame is beautiful!!  I found that the thick first flanking on America laid pretty fair on the bulkheads if they weren't soaked.  Anyway, that's what putty is for.  
Glad to hear about the recovering digit.  Keep up the PT!!
I heard that pushups on your fingertips is good therapy 
 
- Tim

Thanks OC - things have been so busy at work that I've not had a chance to get back to the BN or my other build (the Model Shipways Syren) for quite some time....I'm hoping that over the holidays I'll be able to dedicate some time to modelling, but at that time there are, of course, so many other obligations....I'm missing the work a lot these days and will hopefully get back to it soon.......
hamilton

Thanks for the likes and the detailed picture Nenad!
The panels will be 12" X 40".  I am still a long way from there but I will use this technique on the upper bulwarks.
I will continue on with the metal work; masts with coats, bands, lugs, trees etc.
The brass bowsprit is finished except for the cheek sheaves for the fore topmast stays, which I intend to turn this morning.
 

Some more metal work.
Mainmast top

 

 
 
Bowsprit/Jib boom collar

 
Soldered

... with lugs

Experimenting with bulwark angle iron (er, brass)
 

 

I know I'm kinda jumping around a bit but I built a caddy for the old Prestolite torch.  Cleaned everything up a bit.  The Admiral is not thrilled at having the thing in her dining room - I'll wheel it into a dark corner and sneak it out when I need to.  It's not the fire and flame - she is a silversmith - it's just that the shipyard looks like it's taking over . . .
 
 

Can't seem to rotate the picture.
 
I'll be making a lot of parts of brass.  Silver soldered.   Here is an attempt at a stanchion. 
 

It's 18 gauge so it's probably out of scale.  The rings are 20 gauge - I'll try some smaller material.
Only 51 more of these
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the likes and the detailed picture Nenad!
The panels will be 12" X 40".  I am still a long way from there but I will use this technique on the upper bulwarks.
I will continue on with the metal work; masts with coats, bands, lugs, trees etc.
The brass bowsprit is finished except for the cheek sheaves for the fore topmast stays, which I intend to turn this morning.
 

Jon, My commiseration to the turkey but I hope everyone else had a good time.
 
The main topsail was the subject of last nights and todays activity.
 
I started as normal with a template. Basically as per the plans with minor adjustment as a result of offering it up to the topmast. The plans do not show the cutback of the luff to clear the top of the mainmast. As the cutback is clearly visible in the photos I decided to include it.
 

The sail was made on the template with wired edges etc etc - as previously described for other sails.
 

The topsail and jack yards were then attached and the sail spliced on. At the bottom right is my splicing (stitching) aid - the twine is cemented into a small bore tube (.08" OD) and the end is chamfered to a sharp point.
 

The sail is mounted on the topmast secured only at the top by the halliard and at the waist by the sliding ring. The tack is still hanging loose and the sheets are not yet rigged. The Halliard is temporarily secured by forceps - visible in the photos.
 

So, research has begun in earnest.
Rather than mark up my Longridge with the 1:48 to 1:78 conversions, I started a notebook for these, and also a paper log.
 
The new build-board is done.  I will apply posts spaced at mast locations for upside down work.


Longridge (and many of you) have a gammoning chain applied.  It looks like it is centered about 5mm forward of the end of the jib boom.  Any suggestions on exactly where (on this 1:78 Manoli kit)?

I plan to also install 10/32 X 1" threaded standoffs into the keel for eventual display mounts.  And I'm considering Longridge's set screws under the mast steps for final adjustment of shroud and stay tension.  Masts will be 3/8" brass tube for main and fore masts, 11/32 for mizzen mast and bowsprit.  I must say that the K&S Precision Metal tubing is perfect for nesting sizes.  the 0.3785 fits perfectly over the 0.3465 for rings about the bowsprit and mizzen mast.  The 0.408 fits perfectly over the 0.3785 for rings etc. over the main and fore mast.  I want to get everything milled on the keel before I fix the bulkheads.  I'm wondering if rabbeting a bearding line groove on the keel for the garboard strake and the strake ends is desirable and/or necessary?
 
- Tim

Thanks for the likes and the detailed picture Nenad!
The panels will be 12" X 40".  I am still a long way from there but I will use this technique on the upper bulwarks.
I will continue on with the metal work; masts with coats, bands, lugs, trees etc.
The brass bowsprit is finished except for the cheek sheaves for the fore topmast stays, which I intend to turn this morning.
 

Thanks for the likes and the detailed picture Nenad!
The panels will be 12" X 40".  I am still a long way from there but I will use this technique on the upper bulwarks.
I will continue on with the metal work; masts with coats, bands, lugs, trees etc.
The brass bowsprit is finished except for the cheek sheaves for the fore topmast stays, which I intend to turn this morning.
 

Thanks for the likes and the detailed picture Nenad!
The panels will be 12" X 40".  I am still a long way from there but I will use this technique on the upper bulwarks.
I will continue on with the metal work; masts with coats, bands, lugs, trees etc.
The brass bowsprit is finished except for the cheek sheaves for the fore topmast stays, which I intend to turn this morning.
 

Thanks for the compliment Eduardo.  Actually, a Cameron Micro Drill with a Proton XY table, and a 1/16 end mill.  
My father bought this many years ago and used it to drill holes in printed circuit boards.
From pictures it looks like the teak panels were 12" high, the white reveal 4" high and (at least some) 36" long?  Paneling over and under the reveal at 4" each?  The space between the reveal ~12" (4" 'post' in the middle of this that the topgallant rail sits on?).
I'm not going to get too carried away with this - just a point of interest.
Also, it seems that this top bulwark paneling ends forward against the heads, forward of that, on the anchor deck, it seems to be iron, painted white, with just the butt plates/angle iron to support the topgallant rail.  The aft paneling appears to end midway down the poop deck and looks to be wood planks painted black.
Any details on this appreciated!
Thanks,
 
- Tim
 
 

Thanks for the compliment Eduardo.  Actually, a Cameron Micro Drill with a Proton XY table, and a 1/16 end mill.  
My father bought this many years ago and used it to drill holes in printed circuit boards.
From pictures it looks like the teak panels were 12" high, the white reveal 4" high and (at least some) 36" long?  Paneling over and under the reveal at 4" each?  The space between the reveal ~12" (4" 'post' in the middle of this that the topgallant rail sits on?).
I'm not going to get too carried away with this - just a point of interest.
Also, it seems that this top bulwark paneling ends forward against the heads, forward of that, on the anchor deck, it seems to be iron, painted white, with just the butt plates/angle iron to support the topgallant rail.  The aft paneling appears to end midway down the poop deck and looks to be wood planks painted black.
Any details on this appreciated!
Thanks,
 
- Tim
 
 

Bedford - thank you for the offer - I'm not sure that the other side of the world is very convenient though.
 
Thank you to everyone else who looked in.
 
MAIN TOPSAIL:-
 
The manufacture of the jack and main topsail yards were not done during my mast making marathon easier in the year. Making them gave me a nice change from sail making and rigging.
 
I didn't have any photographic detail of these items and the plans were quite sparse. I decided to add a little interest in the form of brass end fittings. I had some mahogany dowel from which I intended making them but I realised that it was much too flexible at the desired diameters (jack yard = .190" dia and topsail yard .160" diameter). I did have some .200" ramin dowel that was stiffer but of course the colour was wrong. I decided that the ramin was the best bet in combination with a blend of Walnut and Georgian Mahogany wood dye by Liberon.
 
The yards were sanded to diameter on the lathe.
 
I took the opportunity with the end fittings of extending the mounting spigot to provide additional stiffness, the yards were drilled to take the spigot.
The spigots are inserted in the yard and glued in place. You can see the wood colour is far from ideal.
However it is wonderful what a bit of dye blending can achieve. The yard is laid over the deck housings to check the colour match.

A few eyelets and a bit of binding and the job was done.
 

And so back to sail making.
 
 
 
 

A trial strip.  This is 0.5mm walnut.  At 1:78, the panel is 12.5" high.  The 'slots' are 5" high by 32" long, and 14" between slots.
In looking at the treasure trove of pictures of Her Majesty, I can see a few different widths of slots.
 

Some more metal work.
Mainmast top

 

 
 
Bowsprit/Jib boom collar

 
Soldered

... with lugs

Experimenting with bulwark angle iron (er, brass)
 

 

Hello all - Can anyone tell me the dimensions shown here?  I gather not all of the panels were exactly the same but I suspect most were the same size?
Thanks,
 
- Tim
 

A trial strip.  This is 0.5mm walnut.  At 1:78, the panel is 12.5" high.  The 'slots' are 5" high by 32" long, and 14" between slots.
In looking at the treasure trove of pictures of Her Majesty, I can see a few different widths of slots.
 

That is my understanding, wefalck, in fact here is one of the photos of Young America where she is docked in New York with her main yard topped up and another of Black Hawk.  In this position the yards could also be used for handling cargo, I believe.  Comments on this last point welcome.
 


 
Ed

Yay, A Milestone
 
So I now have all of the framing done of both the hull and the deck.  I figured that milestone deserved a bit more care with the photos, even getting out the "real" camera.   In the photos below, obviously the pedestals are just stuck on the keel and the thing is balanced on the base board.  In the last, the masts and bowsprit are just balanced as well, and not trimmed to length or tapered (and yes the holes in the deck have enough wiggle room that I 'll be able to make the masts parallel).
 
This also marks a bit of a turning point....probably 90% of what I have done up to this point won't be directly visible on the finished model, but 90% of what I do from here on will be directly visible.  The pressure is on!
 
What's Next
 
The instructions call for cutting and installing the waterways, then planking the hull, doing deck furniture, planking the deck, then masts and rigging.  But me?  I think I'll likely take a bit of a break from this build, first to clean up the work bench, then maybe do some side experiments to help me decide what finish to use (natural, paint, copper?) and a few other little side projects I have in mind that I'll probably only share if they are successful.
 
Enough boring text, here are the pictures....
 

One year and she's still a puppy.  Beautiful dog, Nenad.

Ken,
 
Please add my kudos as well.  She’s looking really nice.
 
Best,
John

Some more metal work.
Mainmast top

 

 
 
Bowsprit/Jib boom collar

 
Soldered

... with lugs

Experimenting with bulwark angle iron (er, brass)