hopeful

Also, quickly made me some more planking clamps...the first ones were to bi using the 1/4 x 20 inch bolts...would not fit between some of the frames..
So used some 6/32 screws and made these....
 

 

Yippe, my Smack and Dinghy arrived yesterday. Now I'll be watching even more intently to your and Dee Dee's builds/bashing. Also with Marios completed pic's I love the bashing details going on.
Funny story. We went to the auction last night and some person bought this old wall clock. When everything was over it got dropped and the glass face plate broke, you could hear everyone sigh in sadness as the sound of glass breaking filled the room. Later while leaving I saw it sticking out of the trash. So... to my wifes dismay I pulled it out and it looks like its solid mahogany, so I snagged it to salvage wood. At least it won't become land fill.
 
Keith

Thanks for posting the links Dee Dee, now I want a flattie kit also.
When will it end?
Mario's done a beautiful job on those 2, especially with the wood accents. I think alot can be learned from these small kits before jumping into a Victory or Wasa. The completion rate seem to help with confidence also.
 
Looks like I need to maybe get a copy of Chappelle's American Small Sailing Craft book also.
 
Here's a great site I've found for books.
http://www.alibris.com/booksearch?qwork=280091&qsort=p&matches=16&cm_sp=works*listing*buyused
 
$21.98 and I have a 15% coupon for alibris. First Kits, then tools, now books.... does it ever stop?
 
Keith

Hello all,
 
An update, as promised.
 
I placed and glued the headpanels on the hull.  The front end isn't glued yet.
 
I decided to cut off all the bulwark tops, because the difference in size was just too much to correctly place the 'new' inner bulwarks.
The inner bulwarks were then glued in place.  I put in a waterway, wide enough to cover the spots where the bulwark tops used to be.
So, the waterway may be just out of scale.
 
Still have to decide what to do with the finish of the hull.  See last picture.
I think I will go for the one with the pore filler and stain.  That has a nice colour and smooth surface.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks for looking in and take care,
 
Anja
 

Forecastle Bulkhead Lights
 
I've just about finished all the Forecastle Bulkhead, just a bit of cleaning up and Minwaxing to go.
 
I've made the two Lights, as well as the two hinged panels under them. They are hinged for the anchor cables to pass through as I previously mentioned. There is no real documentation that supports the design of these - I fitted them the only logical way I could guess at.
 
The Lights are made from 1.2mm x 2mm Boxwood rebated to accept the acrylic "glass". The filler and munion strip is only 0.4mm x 0.8mm - this was glued in and then sanded flush with the framing :
 


 
The bulkhead with the Starboard side Light and Cable Panel fitted. I'll fit the Port side ones when I have completed the forecastle deck framing as these will both be fitted in the open position :
 

 
Viewed from Aft :
 

 
Viewed from Forward :
 

 
  Danny

Hi mates,
 
I'm a bookaholic so have  most of the books mentioned in this forum. The best general overall building book I have is Model Shipbuilding from Stem to Stern by Milton Roth ISBN-13: 978-0-8306-2844-5......$20USD from amazon.com. The book contains 288 pages of great stuff and many illustrations. If I had to get rid of all my books but one, I would be happy with Roth's "how to" book.
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David

Ok, quick someone tell me what I did wrong. This is my very first rat line, used clove hitches for knots and it only took me about 5 min.....from everything I have read this is supposed to be a really difficult part so what am I missing?
 

Planked the inside of the bulwarks. I used here white glue and clamped the thin planking all the way in order to prevent  warpage.
Next I fitted the wales at the deck level and above it.
 

I’ve cut out the portholes at the poop and planked the counter with 2x5 mm pear strips. The inner frames of the portholes are 1x5 pear bent in a mold with a round soldering iron tip.
For the curved planking of the forecastle I made a packet of short strips of 0,5x6 pear and I shaped this packet by sanding. But after releasing the packet every plank needed a further fine adjustment one by one. Then I finished the second planking of the forecastle and poop.
 

Aft Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
 
This bulkhead was made in similar fashion to the preceding one. The only differences are in the height and width, with the outer panels significantly narrower due to the width of the hull at that point. The doors and central panel are the same sizes as the forward bulkhead (camera distortion makes them look different to each other) :
 


 
  Danny

Well, I hope this (re-issued!) build log has been helpful. 

I can say that when I was building the Phantom I followed ALL the current build logs, without commenting! So If that is you, doing that, with this build log, I'm very proud to thank YOU for taking the time to read though my verbose "b-log". 
 
I also found myself, on many sleepless nights, reading through all the other MSW build logs and simply enjoying the gorgeous pictures posted by other builders, and fantasizing about someday attempting to build such wonderful things, knowing well enough that it might be impossible, then drifting off runing through various fabrication steps in my mind. Maybe I'm weird but I bet others on this site are the same!
Fodder for wonderful dreams, none the less. 
 
 
Here are some photos of the completed Phantom. I would describe the overall build as "clean" or maybe even "sterile" without rope coils, weathering, etc. Maybe a consequence of the time crunch (build for free program), but I do enjoy the timeless clean, non-cluttered lines of the gorgeous, historic, and now personal vessel. 
 








 
 


 
Cheers
--cb
 
PS in closing, I would like to sincerely thank Mr Chuck Passaro for so much. For encouraging me through his writing to enjoy this hobby, for creating a practicum truly written for beginners, for managing this website that has given me so much inspiration, and for simply building gorgeous model ships. Also, thanks to the entire MSW community for the (now lost) comments on this build. 

At this point, the hull proper was essentially complete, and the build moved on to the masting and rigging phase. 
 
After having the temporary bowsprit mounted, it was time to create the real bowsprit. This is actually a very complicated piece and took a while to build. Several others have said that building spars and the bowsprit in particular is their favorite part of the build and I cannot agree more. It is such a central part of a real sail boat as well as a visual draw in a model that you can't help but love it. The symmetry of the tension on the various lines running through it, as well as the complex changes in cross section make it a wonderful example of visual interest. Also it is TINY!  It still amazes even me, who fabricated the part, that it is even possible to make things like this.


 
All masts and spars were carefully made as follows:
-Measure diameters on the plans using digital caliper, and check for accuracy frequently during fabrication.
-Chuck up dowels in cordless drill, and sand to match by hand. One hand on drill speed, other on sandpaper. Feel is everything. 
-When in doubt, make spars and masts UNDERsized. Chunky spars and masts on a model look weird and ruin the effect
-If it is messed up, or breaks, throw it away and start over. Dowels are cheap. 
 
Eyes at the mast heads were made by making tiny loops of wire, then gluing into tiny holes in the mast. Mast bands were left over copper sheeting that I didn't paint, adhering to my policy of shiny=interesting (I'm a very simple creature!)
When drilling holes in the top of a mast that you already spent like 10 hours making, you DO NOT want to snap the thing off and start over. 
See above: GO VERY SLOW. Like, take 10 minutes to drill a single, tiny hole about 1/16" deep. If something feels "off" for WHATEVER reason, STOP. Take a break, and come back. 10 hours to totally re-make a part instead of waiting another 10 minutes to figure out what is going on is silly, to say the least!



 
After building up the masts (fore and aft virtually the same way) the spars were created. These, again, are absolutely tiny so go slow. Much, much thinner than toothpicks. Drilling tiny holes in parts that you already invested hours in fabricating is tedious. Go slow. Can I say GO SLOW enough!? Despite all this, making these tiny, intricate parts was the most satisfying part of the build!



 
The cleats at the base of the main boom are chunky and oversized at this scale. It would be better to make scale ones instead of using the kit provided ones, but, eh, I was lazy? More importantly, the hole in the boom needed to mount them is about 75% the diameter of the boom itself! Go VERY SLOWLY when drilling these holes. A fraction of a millimeter either way means flaking out through the side of the boom. Maybe it would be best to file the "pin" in the cleat to a tiny diameter, then drill a hole for that. 

 
With all the "fo-real" fabrication done, the only step left is running the lines.  See next post!
cheers!
--cb
 

Oops!  First thing I did this morning when I got the Stag out at the museum was to start 'sweating up' the shrouds prior to finally securing them.  Blow me down if the lower deadeye strap pin on number two starboard didn't carry away when I put a bit of pressure on it!  
 

 
I've no real idea what happened as it was fine last time I touched it, and when I went to try and drill the old pin out of the upper end of the chainplate there didn't seem to be a pin in there.  Very strange!!
 
Oh, well!  A bit of fiddling with some copper wire for a strap and another piece for a pin and I was back in business.
 

 
A little black paint and all was well again - just don't tell the foreman rigger or there'll be hell to pay!
 

 
Once the shroud was back on and they were all tensioned correctly on both sides, I put in some time making a start on the ratlines.  Hopefully I can finish them off next time I'm in.
 


 
John
 
 

Kats,
 
Her's wishing you a full and quick recovery!
 
Cheers,
Hope aka David

Katz,
 
Its so good be watching you build again. Wish you well from here.  BTW what happened to the terrific shirts you used to wear?
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

HI,
 
Russ, thanks looking in on the build, much appreciated.
 
Post 7 of my Phantom Build Log.
 
As I will not be using copper plates to copper the hull of my Phantom my next step is to taper the bulwarks from about 1/4" to 1/32" in three steps. The first step for me is to carve and finish sand the bulwarks from the inboard side to a uniform 3/32" all around. 
 
My tools of choice is a set of 4 block cutter gouges from 1/8" to 3/8" wide. The gouges are stainleess steel, 5 inches long, and very, very sharp. These cutters should never be used as levers!  Block cutters are avaiable at good art stores or through the web. I paid under $50 for the set and they will last several life times if properly cared for. The handles are Swiss Pear.
 
Photo 25
 

 
Photo 26
 
Carving the step to make sure it is perfectly square and 3.0mm deep. I pinned a piece of scrap to the deck to use as a guide.
 

 
 Photo 27
 
Final result of step one of my process. At this point the bulwarks are uniformly 3/32 thick and the correct depth per the drawings. I also smoothed the deck at this time making sure not to remove its camber.
 

 
At this point I will go ahead and make the waterways and fit the deck. They will be set aside until later in the build. Now is the safe time to construct and dry fit those pieces since the bulwarks are 3/32" thick and quite strong. making and fitting the parts when the wales are 1/32 is a prescription for disaster.....
 
Thanks for looking in on the build. Comments, questions, and constuctive input always welcome.
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David

Hey Holty,
 
Nice job on the waterline, looks great. Wish you well with the interior planking. I learned about splintering the hard way too!
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David

Thanks first of all for the tips and  encouragement, Its really appreciated.
 
I have been busy with one thing and another but I have completed second planking.
 
Mixed feelings really, parts went well other parts did not. My advise to myself for next time?
 
Firstly, really learn how to measure properly! I have been reading up on using calipers etc and It makes more sense to me now I have completed this planking. I think I mentioned before It did not make sense to me until I was actually doing it and a little too late to start tearing strips off.
 
Secondly, need to learn more on stealers! I totally winged this and I will need filler on the lower part. Its the "what type to use where bit I struggled with, the beginners guide is brilliant but my brain struggled to get round this.
 
I mentioned before about not setting up correctly using rabbets etc so I wont go over this again. 
 
I would like to mention that I don't believe there are sufficient walnut strips included considering it is touted as a "beginners model". I am yet to add the main whale and inner bulwarks and do not have enough so I have a dozen on order.
 
Couple of questions too, do gun ports tend to have rounded corners or are they more straight edged?
 
Any advice on filling, varnishing / possibly staining a little darker?
 
I can definitely see why the planking pros tend to leave the wood exposed, it is rather beautiful

I have been unable to upload pictures to my pc, hence the delay in posting.
 
Planking above the Black Strake
 
The next step was to plank the area designated for yellow ochre paint, as mentioned before I have decided to use a light wood rather than paint, and some Maple was sourced for this. First the planks were cut to length and clamped wet to the hull - following my earlier problems these were left on the hull until perfectly dry:
 

 
I then used pencil caulking and glued into place, then using holes drilled through from the inside I marked and cut the gun ports:
 

 

 

 
Next the treenails were drilled and the coctail sticks were brought in:
 

 
Lastly the treenails were cut back and sanded and the job was finished:
 

 

 
 

main mast mocked up and installed. it's amazing these ships even work with that much sail area.

 
top rail installed. sides of the rail need the stain touched up where I adjusted the fit. the rail at the transom will have to wait until I get the transom trim installed.

Worked on her a bit tonight.  I have done a bit of research on the vessels of the period and made some discoveries of recreations on the water.  I don't know how accurate the paint and other features of the modern recreations are, but they look nice to a modern eye and I plan on using some of their ideas.
 
Again, this boat is for me to learn on.  Sad, but true.
 
First of all, I finished the deck.  It came out Okay, but not great.  I have been debating making treenails, but so far I haven't decided.  Since the seams are not in line, I am concerned that the nails would make this error more obvious.  So, that continues to cook in my mind.
 

 
The edges of the cabins are unfinished plywood at this point.  I was going to simply glue on a veneer, but I found where in some of the modern recreations of the boats, the natural wood of the roof of these structures remained varnished, but the edges were painted.  I had some walnut laying around, so I made a jig for my bandsaw and made a few pieces of edging.
 



 
I am going to paint these black.  So I made a quick mock up to see what she looked like.
 

 
I think this will make a nice little edge piece.  Later, I may make a scraper and shape the edge a bit, we'll see.  Also, I have to look at how everything goes together so I can determine where I need to use a veneer edge- probably under the hatch.
 
I also surfed the site and saw some real masterpiece work today- which makes me cringe a bit about posting my limited progress- but hey.... one day, some day.... maybe I'll be good enough to at least understand how that fancy stuff is done.
 
 

Very little progress today, spent most of my night grading research papers. However, a bit of forward movement to report.
 
I created a jig to hold my deadeyes at each channel at the same distance. This is the jig with the deadeyes for the shroud lines attached to the jig. I just used the steel wire that came with the kit to attach these to the jig.
 

 
The jig placed behind the deadeyes on the channel. I used the brass nails to hold these where I need them. I figured this would make it more stable to take the strain I will put on the upper deadeyes when the shroud lines are attached.
 

 
First shroud line being pulled around the deadeye. The jig seems to be holding well so far, I am alternating sides so the mast does not get pulled out of position. Using pva to help secure the shroud line to the deadeye itself, and will let that dry overnight and then serve the lines tomorrow.
 

 
I still have a long way to go, but I have time as well. Turns out I am short 2 of the required deadeyes, so I just had to place an order from ME for some replacements. Cost me 3 times as much for the shipping than the $2.30 for the package of deadeyes, go figure!!
 
I am feeling much better tonight, nose is mostly clear now but still a bit swollen and uncomfortable.  I WILL NOT be using any CA indoors anymore!!!

Ahoy Mates
 
Thank you all for coming to my planking party, “last call for planksl”
 
Mark: If I am a master, it is of listening to others like you. Thank you, your log has been very helpful.
 
Martin: not all of us can afford mink.
 
Back to the build:
 
The last plank on my hull was installed last night. I started planking on 01/10/13 and finished 05/06/13. There was a three-week interlude and I estimate it took me no less then 120 hours to plank this hull (Best guess is 150). As much as I found planking a very enjoyable experience, I am glad to be done. The last plank went in without any resistance, which was nice; the second to last took six attempts to fit.
 
As for planking the Ratt, please find below my overview/notes.
 
1) Mark the entire hull as per the planking practicum here on MSW. This work, which I called Ratt-Lines, was long, tedious, and boring as hell when I did it: I will do this with more enthusiasm next time because now I know how much work it saves. 
 
2) Double, triple and quadruple check the fillers before starting. Especially in the stern. Once you commit it takes ten times longer to correct any problems here. The planks need to run up to the stern post and counter. Not make sharp turns into them. Test, test, test, then check them two more times. While were here the battens you use to test the fairing of the bulkheads must be right. Do not proceed unless you are good here.
 
3) Spiling is a must. I fought it and in the end, this was a mistake. Yes, it is more work and the learning curve is a little steep, but once you make sense of it, it really is not that big a deal and actually easier in the long run.
 
4) Where the planks turn up in the stern requires some difficult bends and the planks need to twist. For me, this was the most difficult part of the hull to plank. The planks also taper then flare out here. Run all these planks long, combing two plank lengths into one worked best for me. This can apply to the bow too. For this reason work towards the mid section coming at it from both ends, not from stern to bow or bow to stern. Fitting planks in the middle section are the easiest and should be done last.
 
5) Unless fitting; if possible all planks should be soaked and dried “long”, cut to the correct length only just before gluing them. Cutting them short here really hurts too, so measure twice.
 
6) Just throw away the bad planks and start again. Yea it hurts when you spend an hour on one plank and it is not right, but realize that you will look at it forever if you put it on. Basswood is cheap.
 
7) I soaked all my planks and allowed them to dry on the hull. I avoided having to forced them to make a bend or twist when it came time to glue them. Fitting the planks this way was slow but it allowed me to make sure the plank was right before I glued it in. It also made gluing much easier.
 
8) Do not forget to give yourself a break. Getting aggravated because of a mistake or problem only takes away from the experience. I had to walk away a few times. Planking was a very long process for me and I chose only to enjoy it.  
 
Sorry “no Pics”
She is in the spa, getting all pretty for her reveal

HI Mates,
 
Just back from a trip. Did a bit of work today after taking care of the lawn work, blah!
 
Post 6 of my Phantom Build Log
 
Photo 23
 
As I am not yet certain how I will display the model  I am drilling 1/16" diameter holes 1/2" deep through the keel and into the hull. To make certain the drill does not wonder when entering the wood I always make a starter hole with an awl. The keel is 1/8" wide. The blue tape is a depth gauge. I use my drill press to drill the holes perfectly straight.
 

 
Photo 24
 
Completed the rudder out of maple. I tend to sand to far on small pieces of wood. The maple slows me down.  Nanoo is always has here nose into everything.
 

 
Thanks for looking at the build. Comments and constructive advice always welcome.
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David

Hi Buck,
 
My vote is the Dallas Revenue Cutter!!!  Beauuuuuutiful!  .....28"'s of fun!
 
Seriously, build the vessel of your choice, the vessel that really rings your bell!
 
Good luck,
Hopeful aka David