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Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. Good luck with your build. Be VERY exacting with placement when constructing the frame - especially in the stern - and in sanding the curved profiles in the stern per the plans. Time and care invested there will pay dividends down the road.
  2. So cool to have 3 build logs of the Confederacy going on at different stages now! I learn a lot, even if too late for my build at a later stage.
  3. Thanks for the comments. The gundeck coamings are too thick and a bit too tall - they were the first ones I did nearly a year ago. I will not be revising them as I am not driven for perfection here to that degree while I fully respect those who are. This monster of a model has fully stretched and often exceeded my abilities and I have learned much about following the plans and measurements more carefully. My model building career is time limited both in time in the day, time in the main house with the shipyard and tools, and by advancing age/degrading near vision. Assuming I am able (big assumption) to do a reasonable job on the ships boats and make sure the rail stanchions for this coamings are not too high this will be less evident to the discerning. There are a number of errors I’ve had to work around and rather than tear down and redo I’ve compensated as best I can. Will take my lessons forward to my next and almost certainly last complicated build, currently planned to be Dusek La Real reimagined as a Maltese galley. I appreciate your attention to my build.
  4. Thanks for the "likes" all. I have done some work on the beakhead, getting as far as the cheeks. Really fiddly work that shows up every small asymmetry in one's work. I hope I've mitigated these. The next work is worrying, as Chuck's instructions state that the head timbers are the really difficult part. Sheesh. Anyway, 2 weeks now at our place on the east coast, so no ship modeling for a while.
  5. No, rigging her fully at this scale would result in a monstrously sized model and I’m already nearly out of display space. Also I’ve constructed this as an admiralty display model with partial decking to show structure and lower deck detail so full masts and rigging don’t seem appropriate to me. Happy to build as intended.
  6. Note: put pins or a bit of monofilament to anchor the timberheads on the cap rail around the foredeck. You WILL snap them off multiple times as you work otherwise.
  7. My lesson to me: measure don’t eyeball midline when placing carlings and hence coamings. I’m always working from the starboard side and parallax betrayed me. I didn’t get my eye directly over the midline which shifted things to starboard a bit.
  8. Finished the Fore Deck today. No real problems except some adjustments due to my midline issues. Re-adjusted the building board clamps to allow access to the beakhead which is next.
  9. Sorry about the midline. Unfortunately I did the same thing both front and back. It took a lot of fussing to make things look ok but a few unpleasant asymmetries remain although the admiral insists that only I will notice them. She is loyal! (And wrong - not a competition model)
  10. Finished the quarterdeck completely. I decided to go with a look allowing maximal views of the main deck structures, planking along the mid-line as far as to enclose the coamings. Added a small area of planking next to the port bulwarks to mount 2 six pounders (the viewing side will be the starboard), and 2 small pieces for the binnacles. As is my wont, I am my own worst enemy. I discovered (not until adding the piece for the deck planking to abut against) that somehow I drifted off the mid-line with my coamings and carlings as they moved forward. Arrgh. So a fair amount of jiggery-pokery to mitigate to the extent possible the resulting disruptions of the symmetry of the planking and the main rail. I guess it's my next build that will be perfect. I'll take a bit of a short break before starting on the fore deck, as I have several packs building up for my Agora 427 Cobra model crying for my attention.
  11. Finished the inner bulwarks and their painting, and then the cap rails, volutes, and associated decorative molding. That's it: all of the internal structure is now hidden! I think I'll take a step back at this point to touch things up. A fair number of dings and rubs from clamps, so some spot painting and renewing of stain in some rubbed spots. A few infelicities that I may be able to improve upon, and I need to see if I can salvage the rudder that seems magically to have lost all its pins. Then on to working of the quarterdeck.
  12. Did up the stove, which was a fun little project. Then put the additional foredeck detail in place, and added the beams and knees. This wouldn't be a project of mine if I didn't make a silly mistake along the way - I placed the stove a bit too far aft so that the lower stack is not centered right with respect to the beams/carlings. Won't really matter, and it would take a nitpicker to notice that the upper stack will be slightly out of line with the stove, but bugs me nevertheless. Next up: planking the inner bulwarks.
  13. Finished the quarterdeck beams, knees, and carlings, as well as the underlying gun deck structures and details. A milestone of sorts. Now time to turn attention to the bow area.
  14. I've got most of the quarterdeck beams on (up to the mainmast area. Hanging and lodging knees in place. Here is where the eccentricities of the kit wood can bite you. I snapped the ends of several of the lodging knees off with minimal pressure while sanding due to the grain of the basswood running across that end (the smooth curved end). Thank goodness extras were provided! I saw on the Winnie thread the beams in front of the cabins painted red on the front and back. Loved the look so I'm going with that. With the eight beams and their attendant supports done I'm now more in the phase of a bunch of sequential small projects rather than mind-numbing repetition, at least for a while. I love this part, and it fits well with the time periods I've allotted to building. The mainsail jeers were fun. Next, the pumps.
  15. Good thinking. did you substitute brass cannon? and if so how did you drill for the eye bolts in the breech? I have some for the 8 pounders and not sure how to approach that. Or for the white metal ones if it comes to that.
  16. A bit more progress, with both bulkheads now in place, including the speaking tube (not glued) and the supports for the first three beams. Capstan next according to the instructions. So far, other than the use of Syren resin 12 pounders and the carriage changes that necessitated, everything pretty much out of the box, including all the wood. I chose those cannon to make it easier (much!) to drill the holes to glue the eyebolt into the breech of each cannon. Not sure what I'll do for the 8 pounders when I get that far since the resin cannon don't come in the right size. I have brass ones but haven't decided how I'll deal with the eyebolts.
  17. Looks great! Building those gun deck cannons looms in front of you. Or have you done those already? Glad to have that behind me. I had never done the hook scarf edging before either. Worth the effort as it looks much better than nibble tapering.
  18. Darn, I wish I hadn’t seen this! Now I’ve got this little voice in my head saying “wouldn’t this be nice to alternate working on the Confederacy?”…. truly a beautiful model.
  19. I noticed the absence of the stern post installation in the instructions as well. I pm’d Chuck about it and he said straightforward, sand to fit the counter once the planking is completed. looking good. I’m already anxious to get back to work but that will be Memorial Day.
  20. Thanks all. Since this build is right at the edge of my abilities I’m very pleased with it so far. The admiral thinks it’s my best so far.
  21. I have managed to get the cannon placed and breech ropes rigged. It was surprisingly difficult to persuade the eye bolts at the ends of the breech ropes to seat in the pre-drilled holes. In the end, it took two tweezers - one curved - and my optivisor to manage it, and even then often two or three tries before success. Because of all the fumbling I didn't put any glue on the ends of the bolts to avoid smearing it all over (as everyone says, don't ask me how I know). I dribbled a bit of white glue diluted with water on each where it protruded from the hole to secure them. After drying, nothing visible. I wanted to finish this part before shutting things down for 6 weeks, so I wanted to place the out-haul anchors. I was reluctant to use the brass eye bolts and split rings due to the hassle of blackening them and the probability of some of the blackening disfiguring the deck. Since a nice roll of 28 gauge black wire came with the kit, I made the split rings and eye bolts with that. I've never done that before and I have to say (with the proper tools including a good cutter with sharp points and a fine needle nose pliers) it was surprisingly easy and an hour's work provided me with 28 nice black rings with attached bolts. Put those on the deck and I'm pleased with the look. That's it for now. Cleaned up the shipyard, put away the tools and vacuumed the carpet monster. Will start on the additional deck structures when I return.
  22. Well, I've finished 28 12 pounders! I love the resin cannon from Syren. I wish he had a size suitable for the upper deck 6 pounders. Going to be able to get them installed before leaving the shipyard for 6 weeks or so to travel and stay east. I have definitely decided not to install the cannon tackle, and therefore probably will not install the (upper) eyebolts beside the cannon ports. The thought of blackening and installing 56 eyebolts to no purpose led me to this decision. Judge me if you must. Touched all the cannon up, and will drill the holes for the ring/eye bolts tomorrow and then glue the cannon in place and insert the breech line bolts. Excited that when I return I can leave the tedium of the last several weeks behind and start on more varied construction projects. By the way, if you follow the Manual's procedures, there are not enough split rings and eye bolts included with the model. I requested more and received them quickly from Model Shipways. Unfortunately, the split rings were a smaller size and passing the breech line through them was a nightmare, using every trick in my book. Ended up using the kit rope (stiffer and slightly smaller) on those few I had left to do. On the positive side, the smaller rings - joined with eye bolts - were perfect for the pull handles on the forward hatch covers, replacing the bent over eye bolts I had used per instructions but the look of which I simply wasn't happy with. Will be back in 6 weeks or so.
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