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Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. Finished the inner bulwarks and their painting, and then the cap rails, volutes, and associated decorative molding. That's it: all of the internal structure is now hidden! I think I'll take a step back at this point to touch things up. A fair number of dings and rubs from clamps, so some spot painting and renewing of stain in some rubbed spots. A few infelicities that I may be able to improve upon, and I need to see if I can salvage the rudder that seems magically to have lost all its pins. Then on to working of the quarterdeck.
  2. Did up the stove, which was a fun little project. Then put the additional foredeck detail in place, and added the beams and knees. This wouldn't be a project of mine if I didn't make a silly mistake along the way - I placed the stove a bit too far aft so that the lower stack is not centered right with respect to the beams/carlings. Won't really matter, and it would take a nitpicker to notice that the upper stack will be slightly out of line with the stove, but bugs me nevertheless. Next up: planking the inner bulwarks.
  3. Finished the quarterdeck beams, knees, and carlings, as well as the underlying gun deck structures and details. A milestone of sorts. Now time to turn attention to the bow area.
  4. I've got most of the quarterdeck beams on (up to the mainmast area. Hanging and lodging knees in place. Here is where the eccentricities of the kit wood can bite you. I snapped the ends of several of the lodging knees off with minimal pressure while sanding due to the grain of the basswood running across that end (the smooth curved end). Thank goodness extras were provided! I saw on the Winnie thread the beams in front of the cabins painted red on the front and back. Loved the look so I'm going with that. With the eight beams and their attendant supports done I'm now more in the phase of a bunch of sequential small projects rather than mind-numbing repetition, at least for a while. I love this part, and it fits well with the time periods I've allotted to building. The mainsail jeers were fun. Next, the pumps.
  5. Good thinking. did you substitute brass cannon? and if so how did you drill for the eye bolts in the breech? I have some for the 8 pounders and not sure how to approach that. Or for the white metal ones if it comes to that.
  6. A bit more progress, with both bulkheads now in place, including the speaking tube (not glued) and the supports for the first three beams. Capstan next according to the instructions. So far, other than the use of Syren resin 12 pounders and the carriage changes that necessitated, everything pretty much out of the box, including all the wood. I chose those cannon to make it easier (much!) to drill the holes to glue the eyebolt into the breech of each cannon. Not sure what I'll do for the 8 pounders when I get that far since the resin cannon don't come in the right size. I have brass ones but haven't decided how I'll deal with the eyebolts.
  7. Looks great! Building those gun deck cannons looms in front of you. Or have you done those already? Glad to have that behind me. I had never done the hook scarf edging before either. Worth the effort as it looks much better than nibble tapering.
  8. Darn, I wish I hadn’t seen this! Now I’ve got this little voice in my head saying “wouldn’t this be nice to alternate working on the Confederacy?”…. truly a beautiful model.
  9. I noticed the absence of the stern post installation in the instructions as well. I pm’d Chuck about it and he said straightforward, sand to fit the counter once the planking is completed. looking good. I’m already anxious to get back to work but that will be Memorial Day.
  10. Thanks all. Since this build is right at the edge of my abilities I’m very pleased with it so far. The admiral thinks it’s my best so far.
  11. I have managed to get the cannon placed and breech ropes rigged. It was surprisingly difficult to persuade the eye bolts at the ends of the breech ropes to seat in the pre-drilled holes. In the end, it took two tweezers - one curved - and my optivisor to manage it, and even then often two or three tries before success. Because of all the fumbling I didn't put any glue on the ends of the bolts to avoid smearing it all over (as everyone says, don't ask me how I know). I dribbled a bit of white glue diluted with water on each where it protruded from the hole to secure them. After drying, nothing visible. I wanted to finish this part before shutting things down for 6 weeks, so I wanted to place the out-haul anchors. I was reluctant to use the brass eye bolts and split rings due to the hassle of blackening them and the probability of some of the blackening disfiguring the deck. Since a nice roll of 28 gauge black wire came with the kit, I made the split rings and eye bolts with that. I've never done that before and I have to say (with the proper tools including a good cutter with sharp points and a fine needle nose pliers) it was surprisingly easy and an hour's work provided me with 28 nice black rings with attached bolts. Put those on the deck and I'm pleased with the look. That's it for now. Cleaned up the shipyard, put away the tools and vacuumed the carpet monster. Will start on the additional deck structures when I return.
  12. Well, I've finished 28 12 pounders! I love the resin cannon from Syren. I wish he had a size suitable for the upper deck 6 pounders. Going to be able to get them installed before leaving the shipyard for 6 weeks or so to travel and stay east. I have definitely decided not to install the cannon tackle, and therefore probably will not install the (upper) eyebolts beside the cannon ports. The thought of blackening and installing 56 eyebolts to no purpose led me to this decision. Judge me if you must. Touched all the cannon up, and will drill the holes for the ring/eye bolts tomorrow and then glue the cannon in place and insert the breech line bolts. Excited that when I return I can leave the tedium of the last several weeks behind and start on more varied construction projects. By the way, if you follow the Manual's procedures, there are not enough split rings and eye bolts included with the model. I requested more and received them quickly from Model Shipways. Unfortunately, the split rings were a smaller size and passing the breech line through them was a nightmare, using every trick in my book. Ended up using the kit rope (stiffer and slightly smaller) on those few I had left to do. On the positive side, the smaller rings - joined with eye bolts - were perfect for the pull handles on the forward hatch covers, replacing the bent over eye bolts I had used per instructions but the look of which I simply wasn't happy with. Will be back in 6 weeks or so.
  13. Well, went about it a different way. Firstly, discovered that if I want to use the kit carriages, I needed to modify them due to the fact that the cannon barrels I'm using (Syren resin barrels) have the trunion symmetrically placed rather than offset to the bottom. This resulted in a depressed pointing position for the barrels. So I ditched the piece above the rear axel, made the other piece 1/32 rather than 1/16 thick, and built up the trunions a bit with black shrink wrap tubing. With those modifications everything worked. Secondly, I found it easier to drill all the holes for the iron work (11 per carriage) before assembling the carriage. I then assemble the carriage and glue a small length of black monofilament line into the holes for "bolts", paint the carriage, and then cut the line flush with the carriage. Then glue in all the eyebolts and the ring/bolt combinations. Finally, seize the rope to one ring/eyebolt, pass the rope through the carriage eyebolt, the cannon ring, and then the other carriage eyebolt. Having marked the 3 1/4" on the rope, I seize it to the last eyebolt ring with the cannon dangling on one side clamped by the rope next to the ringbolt and the ring clamped on the other side of my "third hand" apparatus. I found this easier and much less messy than trying to get the carriage ring/bolt well seated in the carriage holes if I made the entire rope structure ahead of time per the instructions. YMMV but it works for me. Once I got my workflow figured out (not how the instructions do it) I am able to make 3 complete cannon every two days with the hours I have allotted for modeling. Have completed the port battery (but not attached yet). I have dithered about adding the gun tackle. Rigged some up - just to convince myself I could do it if I wanted - and decided finally that for an admiralty hull model it didn't make sense, and gave a cluttered look at this scale I did not like. So no tackle. If this were a fully rigged "sea going" model I would add it. Trying to decide whether to press ahead and finish all 28 before I leave town in several weeks or take a break and make one or more of the deck structures. I am tired of cannon at the moment.
  14. I'll make all 28 to this stage, then finish off the barrels and rig the main rope. Then back to the carriages.
  15. Faced with construction of 28 12 pounders. While waiting for some stuff to create a good finish on the cannon barrels after drilling and gluing the eyebolts in all 28, decided to work on the initial steps for the carriages. Got the idea for a jig from a Bossman (I think) post (thanks). Constructed a simple jig to hold the axle pieces and the sides in correct orientation. Four spots of Titebond in the notches of the side pieces for the axle pieces, slide the side pieces in, and as they say over there 'Bob's your uncle'.
  16. Well, a real milestone: finished the deck, added the scuppers, the stairs, and the cleats, to the best of my ability. I was very glad I had just ordered a new set of mini wood files to take to stock a (small) model workspace in our second place in Marblehead Massachusetts which included a straight file just 1/32" on edge - perfect for making the slots in the uprights for the steps. Looks OK, warts and all. The planking was tedious, and after congratulating myself on finishing it, realized the next step was drilling hundreds of little tiny holes, filling them with Elmer's wood filler, and then sanding again and again. Once the wipe on poly was put on, I'm really pleased with the treenailing - it doesn't draw the eye but clearly there when you look for it. I don't like the look when the treenails are dark or otherwise prominent. Thankfully the deck is not stained - any residual wood filler repels the stain as I learned on previous builds. Now I'll go dark for I know not how long as I take on the construction, painting, and rigging of 28 12 pounders. I probably won't finish that before we leave for a month or two in Massachusetts and I won't be working on this model there (I have a small but very complicated Fokker Triplane to feed my construction addiction there - hence the small workspace).
  17. Thanks for the input, Bossman. Yes, I have used Syren blocks on all of my models and if I decide to fully rig the cannon will definitely order those. I'll likely experiment first to see how hard it would be, but leaning to do it. Meanwhile, completed the gun deck structures except for the two small scuttle covers. Nothing glued yet. The main grate, as seen in the pictures, had a through and through laser burn that could not be sanded out and is quite unsightly. Didn't glue that one in, and requested replacement from Model Shipways. I love their replacement policy - it certainly helps make me a loyal customer.
  18. Thanks for the advice Gary. Still deciding. Meanwhile, finished the bulwark painting, placing margin planks and waterway. Constructed the floor for the quarterdeck cabin. The instructions had the alternating strips glued to a 6x6 piece of 1/32 basswood before cutting into strips. Provided however was a 4x8 piece. To get the diamond pattern, had to remove and patch parts of the completed glued strips (Thank you Byrnes saw - that walnut is HARD to cut with a knife or razor saw) to get something that would accept the pattern to fit the floor. A lot of work and difficult to match the pattern. I know basswood strips come in 4 inch widths, but I'd strongly suggest obtaining or making a 6 inch square before gluing on the alternating strips prior to cutting across to make the alternating pattern strips. I wish I had done so. At any rate, here we are now, ready to start on the coamings.
  19. Finished the inner bulwarks and painted them. Placed a few of the beams to double check that all was shipshape and symmetric. Glad to have reached this point, with mainly deck work to go for a while (to say nothing of lots of cannons). Speaking of which, I am undecided as to whether to fully rig the cannons other than the main rope, given that this is an admiralty model and I do plan on leaving half of the quarter deck unplanked to show both the construction and allow a view of the underlying quarter deck compartment. I'm sure a double take at the size of the blocks involved and the idea of placing a fabricated hook into each will not play a role in this decision. Any advice?
  20. Thanks for the likes. Each time I make a decision about what to do next I lean towards something “different”. Don’t think I’ll ever build another masted gunship. Been there done that. If I ever finish this build I believe the galley is next. After a visit to Malta a few years ago I will modify the La Real (Dusek) to at least resemble a Knights of Malta galley from the era of the Great Siege.
  21. Yup there is a lot of exacting work in the construction of this hull. I have a Dusek galley and Grenado in my stash but I don’t know if I’ll get to them. I’ll be working on the Confederacy for some time yet. would like to build the galley but may give the grenado away. I have a very fiddly Fokker triplane model I’ll eager to build. I may take that to our second home to work on when we spend time there, as I would only need a smaller set of tools and no need for my power tools or airbrush stuff. Running out of display room in the house anyway - 5 ships not including the current project. Thank goodness it’s an admiralty model. I’m not at all eager to take on another fully rigged ship or a big planking project after this monster.
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