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Brucealanevans

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Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. Finished the planking and added t-nuts to the inside to anchor screws to fasten to the base allowing easy removal and remounting. I put a base together, but won't finish it until the hull and first deck is complete and painted. Now I'm making sawdust with first rough sanding completed. Some filler here and there, then progressively finer sanding. Will paint the hull white after adding the keel strip. Researching the best way to add some dirt in the form of a mud stripe. Also, before adding the deck I'll need to decide on whether or not to add lighting. Suggested approaches?
  2. I have added all 13 (P & S) 1/8 inch wide strakes to the Chaperon, which brings me up (or down) to the flat bottom which will be finished with 3/8 inch planks. Here is the planking to date prior to any sanding. Minimal filler will be needed, mainly at the very front of the bow where the planks meet the stem, for clamping related dings, and one short area of slight separation of adjacent planks. The rest should sand smooth. I'm quite pleased with the planking job thus far. Will paint white, but I would like the planking to be subtly visible. Likely will add a "mud line" if I can d
  3. Thanks and welcome aboard. I plan on some weathering although not as much as your well-used example. Really enjoyed your log!
  4. I decided to forgo the boring pictures of gluing the false keel, faring and mounting the bulkheads, etc. The planking is straightforward only in that no tapering is required, but in order to have the (initial 13 1/8x1/16 planks lie flat against the bulkheads, careful beveling and clamping is required (as I learned to my cost in a brief and currently in hiatus build attempt of the English Pinnace, now awaiting a calmer mind and removal of a number of planks). I have fallen back on my original planking method - bevel, soak in hot water for 15-20 minutes, add any significant curves with
  5. I was planning on a galley next (La Real by Dusek) but got diverted from that diversion by steamboats. Decided to proceed with Chaperon by Model Shipways. In addition to the plans and instruction book, I managed to locate Kurt's 6 part article in Ships in Scale and at least one of the references mentioned which has some fantastic ideas for super-detailing a steamship build - right up my alley!
  6. I would definitely buy the boeier kit. I have the admiralty model and wood kit on my shelf but the prospect of free cutting all those frame pieces is still intimidating for me and I find other things to do instead. So might well buy the cross section in addition! Bruce
  7. Thanks for the kind words I like the idea of fully loading one boat on the "show side" of the model partially lowered. Without a centerboard those boats must have made a lot of leeway in a wind!
  8. Harpoons and other implements, line tubs, water barrel, etc.. probably not stored in the boats until launching. Suggest ribs, ceiling planks, fore and aft details, oars and mast with furled sail lashed to the seats, detailed seats, rudder in stored and hoisted position will give good level of detail. Wrestled with this on my Morgan build (5 whaleboats!) and was pleased with the result - see link to build below (whaleboats at the end of the log). . Bruce
  9. Hi Rossi: Really glad to see you doing La Real. This will be my next build, somewhat modified to represent a Maltese Knights of St. John war galley. I’m pulling up a chair to watch and learn. I haven’t opened the box yet as I need to plan the modifications but will extract the plans soon to compare to my "target" vessel. Great to have one to watch. Bruce
  10. The general is aboard for a final inspection, and declares this build log finished to his satisfaction. (I think he just came from a ball or some other occasion) Thank you for your likes and comments. The shipyard is cleaned up and awaiting next year's project. Happy Holidays to all.
  11. Thanks all. I'm painting a figure meant to represent General Arnold inspecting the ship. If it's acceptable I'll add it; if not I won't. Figure painting is not my forte. The uniform isn't quite right but I can live with that. Elijah: the knee doesn't matter to me, water under the bridge. I had already decided I'm not enough of a stickler to rip it out. This was a fun build. I like this scale. I had previously done Picket Boat 1 also designed by same designer.
  12. Chuck: just in time for me to bow out of this topic .... I think I'm done. Going to spend a couple of days just looking to make certain I'm happy with everything (everything that's modifiable at this point anyway) before she goes in the case and into the living room, and I officially mark this topic Finished. My wife has been gone for 3 weeks helping a daughter with a newborn halfway across the country so I've been working on this more than planned and finished "early". I appreciate the followers and likes and hope this "something different" build was enjoyable to watch. I'll ta
  13. Fascines (ad hoc additional protection for the crew) done and tied in place. A big step which took 3 days of work. When all was said and done I used the 1/32 square strips without rounding each one (of 160) off with a drawplate. The difference in appearance was minimal and I had just enough strips (each fascine contains 40) so breakage would have been problematic. Aged them with Micro Mark "Weather-It". Tomorrow the top battens for the canopy frame go on.
  14. Since I'm approaching the end of this build, I've begun arranging the next. Confederacy and Granado still on the shelf, but my head was turned after a trip to Malta. I've read a lot about "The Grand Siege" in the 16th century and decided I wanted to build a war galley as sailed by the Knights of St. John of Malta. I've ordered Daniel Dusek's model of La Real and will modify it accordingly. I found some plan views and illustrations online to help. As best I can tell at this point some changes to the fore and aft superstructure (and a change of flags) should do the trick to a reasonabl
  15. Kurt Thanks for your comments. Your articles were invaluable to me in this build. No more to say than that. Sam's model is an inspiration - his craftsmanship is a cut above mine, but (waxing philosophical) there are always those a bit or more than a bit better than one at any endeavor, and so my goal is for each successive build (this is my fourth) to be better and cleaner with fewer boo-boos and more eye candy detail. I'm pleased with this build and suspect it will be done within the next couple of weeks if my plans for the fascines work out. One comment on your article: y
  16. I have finished all the deck detail now. Playing with placement - will fasten things down tomorrow and start on the fascines. Making powder bags and hollowing out a third party barrel to accept them was the most tedious part of this. I did use some third party boxwood buckets, but had to thin them down from the inside to get the thickness to some approximation of scale. Turns out a black sharpie works great on the elevated "hoops" of commercial barrels, after "aging" them with a vinegar soak which removed the shiny finish. I wish the barrels were slightly bigger as they are a bi
  17. Put up the canopy frames and the racks for gunnery equipment for the swivels and the 9 pounders. The former rack was indicated on the Smithsonian plans but not the kit plans. Making the gunnery equipment took as long as making and installing the canopy frames, but with the racks staring me in the face I went ahead with that equipment and installed them in the racks. I also put (not yet glued) a rammer/sponge and ladle/worm in the foredeck for the 12 pounder while I was in that production mode. I have some detail (mainly chests, buckets, and barrels) to add to the deck that will be un
  18. Minwax classic Grey stain wiped on, sanded unevenly harder in traffic areas then another very light coat. I like the look too. In this case, since this is not a “pretty” boat, basswood’s tendency to take stain unevenly enhances the look for the deck and the hull. It gives a nice beat up look which is what I’m going for.
  19. Fore Rails up and anchors rigged with hawser, stop rope, lashing pendant and fish line. The stop rope should have been larger diameter but I was out of .025 and was impatient. Bad model builder!
  20. Elijah thick CA will work well, but it takes a while to set. Hold it in place for a minute or more, then carefully let go. After a minute more nudge it if it has moved and hold carefully a bit more. Once it’s in place don’t touch it for an hour. Don’t ask how I know. It fils gaps. Don’t put them on until you’ve stained the hull. That’s what I used for that piece, as well as gluing the ends on the cannons. For those make sure you have the barrels vertical so gravity doesn’t upset things. Medium CA doesn’t work near as well. Epoxy will also work if you already have that.
  21. There is a flashing piece in the brass bits that goes on the outside to simulate the flared and turned edge of the original lead pipe.
  22. Thanks John, I appreciate that. One of the bits of fun working in this scale is the ability to push the envelope with detailing. Downside: those Smithsonian plans were expensive, but I could not have done much of this without them and their wealth of detail. Not enough detail in the two books about the Philadelphia I got.
  23. Chuck:

    How and on what do you print your flags. If you've discussed it in a post I  can't find it.

  24. I've finished the rigging, except for the yard braces and the mainsail boom, which will be added at the very end. The rigging varies from the kit instructions. Firstly, due to what is necessary to handle the sails. I have used the Smithsonian plans for that. Secondly, those plans also show the topmast shrouds passing down to deck level and fastening through bullseyes tethered to the lower deadeye strops. So I did that. I might add parenthetically that this rigging job was made much easier than my previous jobs due to equipment overload: 1. Michael Mott's third hand, and especially th
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