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Brucealanevans

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Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. There is a flashing piece in the brass bits that goes on the outside to simulate the flared and turned edge of the original lead pipe.
  2. Thanks John, I appreciate that. One of the bits of fun working in this scale is the ability to push the envelope with detailing. Downside: those Smithsonian plans were expensive, but I could not have done much of this without them and their wealth of detail. Not enough detail in the two books about the Philadelphia I got.
  3. Chuck:

    How and on what do you print your flags. If you've discussed it in a post I  can't find it.

  4. I've finished the rigging, except for the yard braces and the mainsail boom, which will be added at the very end. The rigging varies from the kit instructions. Firstly, due to what is necessary to handle the sails. I have used the Smithsonian plans for that. Secondly, those plans also show the topmast shrouds passing down to deck level and fastening through bullseyes tethered to the lower deadeye strops. So I did that. I might add parenthetically that this rigging job was made much easier than my previous jobs due to equipment overload: 1. Michael Mott's third hand, and especially th
  5. Standing rigging for mainmast completed. On to the topmast. Lines (except forestay) not snugged down. Once topmast standing rigging in place will tighten everything down (Learned my lesson from my last rigging job).
  6. Rigged and stepped the mainmast. It will have a boom at the bottom, but as this attaches only through toggles in the lower cringles and both the boom and its rigging protrude from the side a considerable distance likely to make the work to come difficult, I will be adding that last.
  7. Daniel: I will be buying La Real in the near future, as soon as I finish my current build. Will be making a few changes to approximate a Knights of St. John galley. Is this kit going to also be upgraded to Pear? If so, at what time would that happen, as I would prefer that option if/when available. Thanks
  8. I have made two sails, which are complete except for the boltropes. I don't like the look of sewing them on, as even at this scale the stitches would be out of scale. I have experimented with gluing them on with fabric glue, and will likely do that with a few stitches with very fine fly-tying thread to tack down at least the ends at the cringle. Experimented with white ink pen and pencil line to simulate panels in the sails and ended up opting for the latter. Corner reinforcements were cut out of dyed sail fabric and put on with fabric glue with pencil lines added. The sails utilized some
  9. A detour to make sails, which I've decided to add. The oars will be stored. Need to address this before beginning the rigging, as the sails will need to be rigged to the yards prior to erecting the mast and adding the standing rigging. Will also need to order a few more blocks and more line as the model is not equipped for sails. Also noted on the Smithsonian plans there is a boom to which the lower end of the mainsail is attached, so need to make that. At this scale going to use cloth instead of silkspan. Dyed appropriate cloth with coffee and a few drops of black paint, and cu
  10. Finished and (temporarily) mounted the rudder with the tiller. Almost forgot to add the nails. That was a bit of a pain. Added details to the forward cockpit which I felt might not be terribly accessible once I start the rigging. Glued the stove in place with a couple of implements, and added a number of half barrels and a box containing bar shot and balls, as shown on the Smithsonian plans. For fun, added some fake water in the bailing well along with the water scoop also shown in the Smithsonian plans (which apparently were drawn to guide the construction of the replica). Now,
  11. Back from a great Mediterranean cruise on the worlds largest ship with sails. Back in the shipyard today - Finished the stove. Bricks made with sculpy formed in the sheet the kit "bricks" of basswood were in. Modeling paste for mortar. Set up a charcoal fire in the stove. Suitably sloppy brick work! Also added the pintels to the rudder.
  12. Noel, the stain was a mixture of 2 Minwax stains - Gunstock 1/3 and something darker 2/3. Can't find the can at the moment. Stains were suggested in the Ships in Scale series, and I liked how they looked. He was trying to match the look of the reproduction Philadelphia. Art, to this point most of my additions have been cosmetic - I have added nails (fake, see above) to all planking and fake bolts (see above) to everything attached to the hull, such as the knees, the cathead, and so on. None of this is necessary for the build - I went into this looking to detail alot. The deck in the kit i
  13. Finished up the cap rail, the catheads, and the tholes, bits, and mooring bit. Put the cleats on the cap rail as well. The forward facing 12 pounder sits a bit crooked in its carriage as you can see - I'll be fixing that later. I'm going to depart from the instruction book sequence because I mean to do some detailing on deck supplies and equipment visible on the original Smithsonian plans, and that will be easier without working around the rigging and the canopy supports. So next will be the rudder hardware, the stove, and some other deck stuff. Meanwhile tho I've tidied everyth
  14. I've rigged the guns, using blocks from Syren (Chuck) and rope from the same source. Chose to strop with line rather than wire. Appreciate advice in one of Chuck's posts about seizing with a series of carefully placed tight overhand knots rather than wrapping line, with a drop or two of dilute white glue and some compression/shaping as it dries - much easier and looks good to my eye. Constructed and set up the mast and mast band to the mast partner. At this scale I thought it would be fun to put actual sheaves in the main and topmast, and did so using discs cut off of appropriate sized do
  15. By the way, I think I made the separator character with an integral sign and strikethrough and italic styles applied. Can't recall for sure.
  16. Interior structurally done, and exterior stained. I made hauser pipes from brass tubing and glued the kit-supplied end pieces over the ends after the staining (as per the Ships in Scale series on this build, which I have found enormously helpful). Then built the carriages, glued the cannon tubes together, stained the carriages to match the exterior stain, airbrushed the cannon tubes, and blackened the various bits including the washers for the transverse bolts (I used black covered 19 gauge wire for those) and the trunion caps (used Bluejacket pewter blackener for those as brass blac
  17. Just a comment on the lettering. I used a word cell with black background and white or gold letters and put it on with modge-podge stuff, then flat clear over. One advantage is the choice of fonts to match the real Morgan. A styilized italic "s" with strikethru style added gives you that divider character on the transom. You can see the result in my build. If your ebony is true black it should work. Got the idea from John's Morgan build log.
  18. ALERT Lesson learned: stain first, THEN place the monofilament pieces. I thought I was very careful with the glue but still ended up with many halos after first staining. Had to spend time touching up with matching paint. Thank heavens this is a slapdash beat up looking ship and end result was ok. Will give stain a sanding when dry, then wipe on a light final coat as I did with the inside.
  19. Not my original idea. Chuck showed this on his barge prototype. Unfortunately here I had over 700 to do on the outside (many fewer inside. Just finished this morning. Did a google for black monofilament line and picked one supposedly 0.4mm diameter and used #76 drill bit. I think it came from Japan.
  20. It's a fun kit because of the scale, although a bit of a monster for the same reason. I have an almost neurotic love of small detail and I think this kit is going to take me down that rabbit hole! have fun. Thanks all for the "likes"
  21. Prior to staining the exterior, I've been working on placing the nails for the exterior planking. These were iron and clearly visible, as on the modern reconstruction. Drilled all the holes with a pin vise, slightly widening the entrance with a sharp awl. Placed short pieces of black mono-filament held with the needle nose pliers (tweezers don't work due to twisting or "snapping away" of the line piece) illustrated after dipping the end in a drop of CA. Then cut each nearly flush with the flush cutter illustrated. The second picture shows a row of holes, a row filled with the mono-fi
  22. Added "nails" for the ceiling and decks with mono-filament line dipped in a touch of CA, inserted into pre-drilled holes, then clipped with a flush-cutter. Stained the interior. To get the used-up look sanded the central "traffic" areas after the first coat of Minwax stain dried and applied another light coat. Put in the knees and coaming with nails and bolts simulated. For the bolts cut out small circles with a punch from a card colored with magic marker, punched a small hole in the center with an awl, and slipped over a protruding piece of mono-filament line, glued down, and clippe
  23. Finished the ceiling planking. Had a look at the Smithsonian plans which arrived afterwards, tho, and the interior planking was wider than the 1/4" (6 scale inches) the kit uses. Oh well. Put the decks in - I cut the deck pieces into individual planks as I didn't like the scribed planking which ended up really highlighting the midline join between the port and starboard pieces. The cuts "lost" enough of the total width that I had to add a small piece to either side to make up the difference. Suggested by the Ships in Scale series. Also some fiddling due to the "drift" of the false keel am
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