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Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. I have finished all the deck detail now. Playing with placement - will fasten things down tomorrow and start on the fascines. Making powder bags and hollowing out a third party barrel to accept them was the most tedious part of this. I did use some third party boxwood buckets, but had to thin them down from the inside to get the thickness to some approximation of scale. Turns out a black sharpie works great on the elevated "hoops" of commercial barrels, after "aging" them with a vinegar soak which removed the shiny finish. I wish the barrels were slightly bigger as they are a bi
  2. Put up the canopy frames and the racks for gunnery equipment for the swivels and the 9 pounders. The former rack was indicated on the Smithsonian plans but not the kit plans. Making the gunnery equipment took as long as making and installing the canopy frames, but with the racks staring me in the face I went ahead with that equipment and installed them in the racks. I also put (not yet glued) a rammer/sponge and ladle/worm in the foredeck for the 12 pounder while I was in that production mode. I have some detail (mainly chests, buckets, and barrels) to add to the deck that will be un
  3. Minwax classic Grey stain wiped on, sanded unevenly harder in traffic areas then another very light coat. I like the look too. In this case, since this is not a “pretty” boat, basswood’s tendency to take stain unevenly enhances the look for the deck and the hull. It gives a nice beat up look which is what I’m going for.
  4. Fore Rails up and anchors rigged with hawser, stop rope, lashing pendant and fish line. The stop rope should have been larger diameter but I was out of .025 and was impatient. Bad model builder!
  5. Elijah thick CA will work well, but it takes a while to set. Hold it in place for a minute or more, then carefully let go. After a minute more nudge it if it has moved and hold carefully a bit more. Once it’s in place don’t touch it for an hour. Don’t ask how I know. It fils gaps. Don’t put them on until you’ve stained the hull. That’s what I used for that piece, as well as gluing the ends on the cannons. For those make sure you have the barrels vertical so gravity doesn’t upset things. Medium CA doesn’t work near as well. Epoxy will also work if you already have that.
  6. There is a flashing piece in the brass bits that goes on the outside to simulate the flared and turned edge of the original lead pipe.
  7. Thanks John, I appreciate that. One of the bits of fun working in this scale is the ability to push the envelope with detailing. Downside: those Smithsonian plans were expensive, but I could not have done much of this without them and their wealth of detail. Not enough detail in the two books about the Philadelphia I got.
  8. Chuck:

    How and on what do you print your flags. If you've discussed it in a post I  can't find it.

  9. I've finished the rigging, except for the yard braces and the mainsail boom, which will be added at the very end. The rigging varies from the kit instructions. Firstly, due to what is necessary to handle the sails. I have used the Smithsonian plans for that. Secondly, those plans also show the topmast shrouds passing down to deck level and fastening through bullseyes tethered to the lower deadeye strops. So I did that. I might add parenthetically that this rigging job was made much easier than my previous jobs due to equipment overload: 1. Michael Mott's third hand, and especially th
  10. Standing rigging for mainmast completed. On to the topmast. Lines (except forestay) not snugged down. Once topmast standing rigging in place will tighten everything down (Learned my lesson from my last rigging job).
  11. Rigged and stepped the mainmast. It will have a boom at the bottom, but as this attaches only through toggles in the lower cringles and both the boom and its rigging protrude from the side a considerable distance likely to make the work to come difficult, I will be adding that last.
  12. Daniel: I will be buying La Real in the near future, as soon as I finish my current build. Will be making a few changes to approximate a Knights of St. John galley. Is this kit going to also be upgraded to Pear? If so, at what time would that happen, as I would prefer that option if/when available. Thanks
  13. I have made two sails, which are complete except for the boltropes. I don't like the look of sewing them on, as even at this scale the stitches would be out of scale. I have experimented with gluing them on with fabric glue, and will likely do that with a few stitches with very fine fly-tying thread to tack down at least the ends at the cringle. Experimented with white ink pen and pencil line to simulate panels in the sails and ended up opting for the latter. Corner reinforcements were cut out of dyed sail fabric and put on with fabric glue with pencil lines added. The sails utilized some
  14. A detour to make sails, which I've decided to add. The oars will be stored. Need to address this before beginning the rigging, as the sails will need to be rigged to the yards prior to erecting the mast and adding the standing rigging. Will also need to order a few more blocks and more line as the model is not equipped for sails. Also noted on the Smithsonian plans there is a boom to which the lower end of the mainsail is attached, so need to make that. At this scale going to use cloth instead of silkspan. Dyed appropriate cloth with coffee and a few drops of black paint, and cu
  15. Finished and (temporarily) mounted the rudder with the tiller. Almost forgot to add the nails. That was a bit of a pain. Added details to the forward cockpit which I felt might not be terribly accessible once I start the rigging. Glued the stove in place with a couple of implements, and added a number of half barrels and a box containing bar shot and balls, as shown on the Smithsonian plans. For fun, added some fake water in the bailing well along with the water scoop also shown in the Smithsonian plans (which apparently were drawn to guide the construction of the replica). Now,
  16. Back from a great Mediterranean cruise on the worlds largest ship with sails. Back in the shipyard today - Finished the stove. Bricks made with sculpy formed in the sheet the kit "bricks" of basswood were in. Modeling paste for mortar. Set up a charcoal fire in the stove. Suitably sloppy brick work! Also added the pintels to the rudder.
  17. Noel, the stain was a mixture of 2 Minwax stains - Gunstock 1/3 and something darker 2/3. Can't find the can at the moment. Stains were suggested in the Ships in Scale series, and I liked how they looked. He was trying to match the look of the reproduction Philadelphia. Art, to this point most of my additions have been cosmetic - I have added nails (fake, see above) to all planking and fake bolts (see above) to everything attached to the hull, such as the knees, the cathead, and so on. None of this is necessary for the build - I went into this looking to detail alot. The deck in the kit i
  18. Finished up the cap rail, the catheads, and the tholes, bits, and mooring bit. Put the cleats on the cap rail as well. The forward facing 12 pounder sits a bit crooked in its carriage as you can see - I'll be fixing that later. I'm going to depart from the instruction book sequence because I mean to do some detailing on deck supplies and equipment visible on the original Smithsonian plans, and that will be easier without working around the rigging and the canopy supports. So next will be the rudder hardware, the stove, and some other deck stuff. Meanwhile tho I've tidied everyth
  19. I've rigged the guns, using blocks from Syren (Chuck) and rope from the same source. Chose to strop with line rather than wire. Appreciate advice in one of Chuck's posts about seizing with a series of carefully placed tight overhand knots rather than wrapping line, with a drop or two of dilute white glue and some compression/shaping as it dries - much easier and looks good to my eye. Constructed and set up the mast and mast band to the mast partner. At this scale I thought it would be fun to put actual sheaves in the main and topmast, and did so using discs cut off of appropriate sized do
  20. By the way, I think I made the separator character with an integral sign and strikethrough and italic styles applied. Can't recall for sure.
  21. Interior structurally done, and exterior stained. I made hauser pipes from brass tubing and glued the kit-supplied end pieces over the ends after the staining (as per the Ships in Scale series on this build, which I have found enormously helpful). Then built the carriages, glued the cannon tubes together, stained the carriages to match the exterior stain, airbrushed the cannon tubes, and blackened the various bits including the washers for the transverse bolts (I used black covered 19 gauge wire for those) and the trunion caps (used Bluejacket pewter blackener for those as brass blac
  22. Just a comment on the lettering. I used a word cell with black background and white or gold letters and put it on with modge-podge stuff, then flat clear over. One advantage is the choice of fonts to match the real Morgan. A styilized italic "s" with strikethru style added gives you that divider character on the transom. You can see the result in my build. If your ebony is true black it should work. Got the idea from John's Morgan build log.
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