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Brucealanevans

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Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. OK I think I'm done now. Maybe a bit of touch up paint but I'll wait for that till I have a case. Here are some pictures.
  2. I like these because the small ones are very light and don’t cause any sag in the rigging.
  3. Yeah, just there to keep tension on the line while I adjusted the position of the stage by fussing with the lines in turn. They are for holding small electrical wires in contact - pushing a button in the end extrudes a small copper hook which retracts when button released. I use them to hold rigging line under tension when seizing.
  4. Getting real close now. With the cargo and main deck people in place I could finally add the bull rails. It really helped to paint the whole set of wood strips (24") ahead of time. Then I could measure for each interval and cut 5 pieces off with a sharp x-acto chisel and immediately place them on/in the brackets, and then glue a bunch of them in place at one time. Put together and installed all the rigging for the stage. I used Syren Co. small hooks (the older black plastic ones I had from the Morgan build) which worked really well. I used epoxy for all of the cleats - learned m
  5. Kurt Many thanks to you. Without your series of articles this build would not have been anywhere near what it is. I strongly suggest that anyone undertaking building the MS Chaperon kit have copies of those articles in hand. The suggestion of scratch building turnbuckles rather than using the supplied flat brass pieces alone added significantly to the appearance. Gluing card to the inside of the cabin walls that are bent 90 degree curves was truly a lifesaver. To say nothing of the modifications to the pilot house and the boiler that add greatly to the realism. Thank you ag
  6. Moving along... Finished the rigging (except for the boats). Got the railings all in place. I had a lot of trouble with the brass roof decorations for the pilot house and Texas. Decided to try a different brand of CA (Bob Smith Industries) and it worked much better - no problem with placing and gluing the railings which I had been dreading. Here's some pictures of current status. Most of the people are in place. Awaiting some cast seed/grain bags to fill out the cargo areas, after which I'll place the main deck rails. Other than that, the boats and their booms and rigg
  7. Took a break and made up some cotton bales for cargo. Painted my cuspidors to look like brass. Touched up some of the people I've been collecting for the voyage. I have a few barrels left over from previous builds, and have some white metal grain/seed sacks coming. I think that will complete the cargo loaded onto the main deck.
  8. My wife just pointed out that if I don’t move the pilot house door handle to the other side no one will be able to get in or out due to the narrowness of the landing ...
  9. Finished and glued in place the pilot house staircase. This was fiddly - getting the alignment of the staircase and the pilot house landing correct - and many of the glue spots were small so really quite fragile. Took 3 days to give the glue (used Tite-Bond carpenter's glue to allow adjustment during the setup time) time to securely set before advancing to the next step and then finally painting. I was glad to finally get it glued securely in place. Next will be the bits and bobs that go on the texas deck as well as placing all of the eyebolts on that deck prior to putting the r
  10. Finished the stacks and put them in place and glued. Wondered about the running lights as when placed per the plans I thought "well, how do they fill/light them?" Apparently the brackets had a small sheave in the end so that the lamp could be lowered and raised by a halyard. Interestingly, the picture on the cover of the box shows such a halyard although the rigging plan sheet does not. Anyway, I did mount the lights on the stacks, and will approximate the function of the halyard when rigging. You can just make them out in these views from behind since apparently they were
  11. Finished the Hog Chains today. I found this the hardest thing I've done so far on this build. If I had 3 hands it would have been easier to make and attach everything while maintaining a taut appearance. I went with a black coated 20 gauge copper wire and home made turnbuckles. Decided to go with black rather than white (design decision). Some paint to touch up where copper bright showed at cut ends and abrasions. Then coated the wire with matt finish to get rid of the plastic shine. Glad to have this done. Next the stacks, which will finish articles 1-5 of 6 in Kurt's Ship
  12. Now the not so good ... It seems with every build I screw something up that needs a work around. Each model has something my eyes go straight to with regret. In this case, I managed, way back at the beginning, to install the pieces that the wheel rests on UPSIDE DOWN! So they are curved on the top, and straight on the bottom. I fussed a bit, but there was no way to unglue/pin them without risking major destruction. I noticed this when looking at the template for the stern timbers and saw they expected a straight line attachment. The curve not only meant the timbers had to b
  13. OK, first the good. Made the stacks and primed them - put in place without glue pending painting and blackening the rod connecting them. Then on to the paddle wheel. Fiddly but not really hard. Also took some time to make turnbuckles as I don't like the flat brass ones that come in the kit (Thanks Kurt). These are a half inch long. Will touch up the paint once they're installed. I found a long bit of copper chain in my stash and I believe I will (at least try) to use chain for the hog "chain" - I gather cable was most often used instead of chain but I think I like the look
  14. Finished the Pilot House except for a bit of white touch-up here and there. Made the modifications as per Kurt and the Steamboat Cyclopedium (see first post this topic) - sliding windows on the sides partly open and visor and folded breastboard in the front rather that the latticed window. Put in a wheel (which should be 50% bigger but that's the largest I could find), a pilot figure holding the wheel and a guy lounging in the back next to the stove. Next up is the stairway to the Pilot House and the railing around the Texas deck.
  15. I got the silk-span procedure from Kurt Van Dahm's Ships in Scale series on the Chaperon build when I was able to get the back issues involved before they ceased operation. I had some silk-span on hand since I had used it for sails in a previous build. I really like the effect. The silk span is cut into strips 3/4 by 5-6 inches and fastened down with Acrylic Mat Medium, with 1/8 inch overlap. When dry, painted (airbrush works well) with flat black and when dry covered with dull-coat type spray. The strips need to be cut with a sharp x-acto blade, and the cutting works best when the s
  16. Now have added the Texas cabin and glued it down after finishing the LED lighting. No real problems with this phase of the construction. Now I put the ship aside to work first on the pilot house. With the modifications to the front and side exposures and the subsequent exposure of the interior there will be a fair amount of detailing work to do. I have a scale stove, one of Syren's ships wheel kits, and a figure that will do for the pilot to add. Also need to figure out the best way to reproduce the small "Chaperon" label - likely will use what I did on the Morgan printing in Wo
  17. Added the hurricane deck. Followed the instructions in Kurt's Ships in Scale article to simulate tar paper covering with silkspan strips. Put in all of the hurricane deck supports. Before adding the skylight structure I put in 3 LEDs leading to holes in the deck within where the skylight would go to provide some lighting to the main cabin structure. It's not bright - good simulation of several kerosene lamps being lit I think. Tested the lights - all levels working so far. The skylight structure was next. A lot of windows but easy to glaze with strips of clear Lucite on the insi
  18. Added the stationaries and the supports for the bull rails on the main deck, but will hold off the bull rails till later to make adding some cargo and figures easier. The boiler deck cabin was definitely a lot of work! Firstly, the deck shear was a bit off, so I had to do some selective sanding of the cabin sides on the bottom. This also necessitated shortening some of the doors in the sanded area. The there were the scores of battens to add. I found the round bends at the corners difficult. Thankfully I came across the hint of gluing some card to the inside of the areas to be b
  19. I have installed lighting LEDs for the main deck. Testing to make sure everything works from my external power connector to the individual lights prior to finalizing with shrink tubes on the main power lines where the five lights connect - temporarily held together with the visible red and black clips - and neatinizing the wiring, all of which will be covered by the deck structure. The main power line will go up to the next deck to provide stateroom lighting. I may put a small light in the floor of the pilot house, but I wonder if that was done since it might affect the night vision
  20. I'm going with a somewhat used look rather than full-bore grunge. Using a light grey pastel rub over the white cabin walls. Light rust on the smoke hood and boiler ends where the heat would have blistered the paint.
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