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Brucealanevans

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Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. Going to take a break for a bit. The house is filling up with ships. I think I’ll eventually be diving to the bottom of my stack and take on the Confederacy. I need something that will take a while to do well and I’m still not anxious to take on a big rigging job. I do wish Chuck still had some of the nice figureheads....
  2. OK I think I'm done now. Maybe a bit of touch up paint but I'll wait for that till I have a case. Here are some pictures.
  3. I like these because the small ones are very light and don’t cause any sag in the rigging.
  4. Yeah, just there to keep tension on the line while I adjusted the position of the stage by fussing with the lines in turn. They are for holding small electrical wires in contact - pushing a button in the end extrudes a small copper hook which retracts when button released. I use them to hold rigging line under tension when seizing.
  5. Getting real close now. With the cargo and main deck people in place I could finally add the bull rails. It really helped to paint the whole set of wood strips (24") ahead of time. Then I could measure for each interval and cut 5 pieces off with a sharp x-acto chisel and immediately place them on/in the brackets, and then glue a bunch of them in place at one time. Put together and installed all the rigging for the stage. I used Syren Co. small hooks (the older black plastic ones I had from the Morgan build) which worked really well. I used epoxy for all of the cleats - learned m
  6. Kurt Many thanks to you. Without your series of articles this build would not have been anywhere near what it is. I strongly suggest that anyone undertaking building the MS Chaperon kit have copies of those articles in hand. The suggestion of scratch building turnbuckles rather than using the supplied flat brass pieces alone added significantly to the appearance. Gluing card to the inside of the cabin walls that are bent 90 degree curves was truly a lifesaver. To say nothing of the modifications to the pilot house and the boiler that add greatly to the realism. Thank you ag
  7. Moving along... Finished the rigging (except for the boats). Got the railings all in place. I had a lot of trouble with the brass roof decorations for the pilot house and Texas. Decided to try a different brand of CA (Bob Smith Industries) and it worked much better - no problem with placing and gluing the railings which I had been dreading. Here's some pictures of current status. Most of the people are in place. Awaiting some cast seed/grain bags to fill out the cargo areas, after which I'll place the main deck rails. Other than that, the boats and their booms and rigg
  8. Took a break and made up some cotton bales for cargo. Painted my cuspidors to look like brass. Touched up some of the people I've been collecting for the voyage. I have a few barrels left over from previous builds, and have some white metal grain/seed sacks coming. I think that will complete the cargo loaded onto the main deck.
  9. My wife just pointed out that if I don’t move the pilot house door handle to the other side no one will be able to get in or out due to the narrowness of the landing ...
  10. Finished and glued in place the pilot house staircase. This was fiddly - getting the alignment of the staircase and the pilot house landing correct - and many of the glue spots were small so really quite fragile. Took 3 days to give the glue (used Tite-Bond carpenter's glue to allow adjustment during the setup time) time to securely set before advancing to the next step and then finally painting. I was glad to finally get it glued securely in place. Next will be the bits and bobs that go on the texas deck as well as placing all of the eyebolts on that deck prior to putting the r
  11. Finished the stacks and put them in place and glued. Wondered about the running lights as when placed per the plans I thought "well, how do they fill/light them?" Apparently the brackets had a small sheave in the end so that the lamp could be lowered and raised by a halyard. Interestingly, the picture on the cover of the box shows such a halyard although the rigging plan sheet does not. Anyway, I did mount the lights on the stacks, and will approximate the function of the halyard when rigging. You can just make them out in these views from behind since apparently they were
  12. Finished the Hog Chains today. I found this the hardest thing I've done so far on this build. If I had 3 hands it would have been easier to make and attach everything while maintaining a taut appearance. I went with a black coated 20 gauge copper wire and home made turnbuckles. Decided to go with black rather than white (design decision). Some paint to touch up where copper bright showed at cut ends and abrasions. Then coated the wire with matt finish to get rid of the plastic shine. Glad to have this done. Next the stacks, which will finish articles 1-5 of 6 in Kurt's Ship
  13. Now the not so good ... It seems with every build I screw something up that needs a work around. Each model has something my eyes go straight to with regret. In this case, I managed, way back at the beginning, to install the pieces that the wheel rests on UPSIDE DOWN! So they are curved on the top, and straight on the bottom. I fussed a bit, but there was no way to unglue/pin them without risking major destruction. I noticed this when looking at the template for the stern timbers and saw they expected a straight line attachment. The curve not only meant the timbers had to b
  14. OK, first the good. Made the stacks and primed them - put in place without glue pending painting and blackening the rod connecting them. Then on to the paddle wheel. Fiddly but not really hard. Also took some time to make turnbuckles as I don't like the flat brass ones that come in the kit (Thanks Kurt). These are a half inch long. Will touch up the paint once they're installed. I found a long bit of copper chain in my stash and I believe I will (at least try) to use chain for the hog "chain" - I gather cable was most often used instead of chain but I think I like the look
  15. Finished the Pilot House except for a bit of white touch-up here and there. Made the modifications as per Kurt and the Steamboat Cyclopedium (see first post this topic) - sliding windows on the sides partly open and visor and folded breastboard in the front rather that the latticed window. Put in a wheel (which should be 50% bigger but that's the largest I could find), a pilot figure holding the wheel and a guy lounging in the back next to the stove. Next up is the stairway to the Pilot House and the railing around the Texas deck.
  16. I got the silk-span procedure from Kurt Van Dahm's Ships in Scale series on the Chaperon build when I was able to get the back issues involved before they ceased operation. I had some silk-span on hand since I had used it for sails in a previous build. I really like the effect. The silk span is cut into strips 3/4 by 5-6 inches and fastened down with Acrylic Mat Medium, with 1/8 inch overlap. When dry, painted (airbrush works well) with flat black and when dry covered with dull-coat type spray. The strips need to be cut with a sharp x-acto blade, and the cutting works best when the s
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