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Brucealanevans

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  1. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Prowler901 in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    Todd:
    The MDF used in this kit for structural pieces is great. No warping, easy to file and shape. As long as none of it is exposed in the final state of the hull since it can't be stained I'm very pleased with it as a construction material.
    Mike:
    I got those clamps from MicroMark. I find them helpful in places my regular clamps can't reach, mainly because of the reach possible between the "jaws" and the length of the jaws themselves.
     
    Mini Plastic Clamp Set (Set Of 4)
    Item #: 80383
     
  2. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from JpR62 in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    I didn't want to glue the first two planks to the bulkhead extensions since the extensions will be twisted/pulled off. Reading over some of the build logs I decided on this approach:
    I clamped the first plank (made to 2 pieces) in place, and used that as a guide to place the second plank(s), gluing them only to the sides of the false deck and not to the bulkhead extensions except at the ends where they were glued firmly to the beak head and stem. I used multiple clamps the align this second plank with the first clamped-on-only plank. Used wood glue since the extent of the glued area would have had CA drying on one end while finishing applying at the other end. Also, last minute adjustments possible with that glue. I soaked and heat-bent the planks to about the right curvature, and then clamped in place until dry. This results in a near perfect fit without the need to use nails (which wouldn't really have been possible anyway for these 2 courses.
    After that cured, I then glued the first planking in place edge-to-edge with the second plank (again with firm gluing at the ends). Multiple clamps to align the first plank with the now firmly held second plank.
    End result as of today is 2 firmly glued courses without fastening to the bulkhead extensions.
    From here on it should be more straightforward.
     


  3. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from JpR62 in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    Before beginning the planking, I tapered the edges of the filler blocks.
    Pieces of laser cut wood are glued to the sides of the beak head/keel/stem MDF, so I traced their "footprint" to guide where to end the first layer planking pieces. Once those ends are feathered the attached pieces will give a rabbet to land the second layer walnut strips.
     
     


  4. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from JpR62 in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    I like the idea of detailing the main hold so did that before fastening the false deck down. I didn't think it right to paint this area, so I just weathered the bare planks.
    I doubt they were too concerned with looks down here, so didn't try to perfectly align the drain holes in the floor, which I raised a bit above the structural piece below it which I painted black to the holes look like holes into the bilge.
    I think I will have the (drying) net stored in here, so not that much will be visible anyway. Will have to find an appropriate material for the net.
    Then glued the false deck down with a variety of long reach clamps and small screw clamps.
     
     


  5. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Prowler901 in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    I didn't want to glue the first two planks to the bulkhead extensions since the extensions will be twisted/pulled off. Reading over some of the build logs I decided on this approach:
    I clamped the first plank (made to 2 pieces) in place, and used that as a guide to place the second plank(s), gluing them only to the sides of the false deck and not to the bulkhead extensions except at the ends where they were glued firmly to the beak head and stem. I used multiple clamps the align this second plank with the first clamped-on-only plank. Used wood glue since the extent of the glued area would have had CA drying on one end while finishing applying at the other end. Also, last minute adjustments possible with that glue. I soaked and heat-bent the planks to about the right curvature, and then clamped in place until dry. This results in a near perfect fit without the need to use nails (which wouldn't really have been possible anyway for these 2 courses.
    After that cured, I then glued the first planking in place edge-to-edge with the second plank (again with firm gluing at the ends). Multiple clamps to align the first plank with the now firmly held second plank.
    End result as of today is 2 firmly glued courses without fastening to the bulkhead extensions.
    From here on it should be more straightforward.
     


  6. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Prowler901 in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    Before beginning the planking, I tapered the edges of the filler blocks.
    Pieces of laser cut wood are glued to the sides of the beak head/keel/stem MDF, so I traced their "footprint" to guide where to end the first layer planking pieces. Once those ends are feathered the attached pieces will give a rabbet to land the second layer walnut strips.
     
     


  7. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Prowler901 in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    I like the idea of detailing the main hold so did that before fastening the false deck down. I didn't think it right to paint this area, so I just weathered the bare planks.
    I doubt they were too concerned with looks down here, so didn't try to perfectly align the drain holes in the floor, which I raised a bit above the structural piece below it which I painted black to the holes look like holes into the bilge.
    I think I will have the (drying) net stored in here, so not that much will be visible anyway. Will have to find an appropriate material for the net.
    Then glued the false deck down with a variety of long reach clamps and small screw clamps.
     
     


  8. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from longshanks in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    I didn't want to glue the first two planks to the bulkhead extensions since the extensions will be twisted/pulled off. Reading over some of the build logs I decided on this approach:
    I clamped the first plank (made to 2 pieces) in place, and used that as a guide to place the second plank(s), gluing them only to the sides of the false deck and not to the bulkhead extensions except at the ends where they were glued firmly to the beak head and stem. I used multiple clamps the align this second plank with the first clamped-on-only plank. Used wood glue since the extent of the glued area would have had CA drying on one end while finishing applying at the other end. Also, last minute adjustments possible with that glue. I soaked and heat-bent the planks to about the right curvature, and then clamped in place until dry. This results in a near perfect fit without the need to use nails (which wouldn't really have been possible anyway for these 2 courses.
    After that cured, I then glued the first planking in place edge-to-edge with the second plank (again with firm gluing at the ends). Multiple clamps to align the first plank with the now firmly held second plank.
    End result as of today is 2 firmly glued courses without fastening to the bulkhead extensions.
    From here on it should be more straightforward.
     


  9. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Paul Le Wol in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    I didn't want to glue the first two planks to the bulkhead extensions since the extensions will be twisted/pulled off. Reading over some of the build logs I decided on this approach:
    I clamped the first plank (made to 2 pieces) in place, and used that as a guide to place the second plank(s), gluing them only to the sides of the false deck and not to the bulkhead extensions except at the ends where they were glued firmly to the beak head and stem. I used multiple clamps the align this second plank with the first clamped-on-only plank. Used wood glue since the extent of the glued area would have had CA drying on one end while finishing applying at the other end. Also, last minute adjustments possible with that glue. I soaked and heat-bent the planks to about the right curvature, and then clamped in place until dry. This results in a near perfect fit without the need to use nails (which wouldn't really have been possible anyway for these 2 courses.
    After that cured, I then glued the first planking in place edge-to-edge with the second plank (again with firm gluing at the ends). Multiple clamps to align the first plank with the now firmly held second plank.
    End result as of today is 2 firmly glued courses without fastening to the bulkhead extensions.
    From here on it should be more straightforward.
     


  10. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from chris watton in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    I didn't want to glue the first two planks to the bulkhead extensions since the extensions will be twisted/pulled off. Reading over some of the build logs I decided on this approach:
    I clamped the first plank (made to 2 pieces) in place, and used that as a guide to place the second plank(s), gluing them only to the sides of the false deck and not to the bulkhead extensions except at the ends where they were glued firmly to the beak head and stem. I used multiple clamps the align this second plank with the first clamped-on-only plank. Used wood glue since the extent of the glued area would have had CA drying on one end while finishing applying at the other end. Also, last minute adjustments possible with that glue. I soaked and heat-bent the planks to about the right curvature, and then clamped in place until dry. This results in a near perfect fit without the need to use nails (which wouldn't really have been possible anyway for these 2 courses.
    After that cured, I then glued the first planking in place edge-to-edge with the second plank (again with firm gluing at the ends). Multiple clamps to align the first plank with the now firmly held second plank.
    End result as of today is 2 firmly glued courses without fastening to the bulkhead extensions.
    From here on it should be more straightforward.
     


  11. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Paul Le Wol in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    Before beginning the planking, I tapered the edges of the filler blocks.
    Pieces of laser cut wood are glued to the sides of the beak head/keel/stem MDF, so I traced their "footprint" to guide where to end the first layer planking pieces. Once those ends are feathered the attached pieces will give a rabbet to land the second layer walnut strips.
     
     


  12. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from yvesvidal in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    Started new build of the Amati Fifie. Several nice build logs on the forum w;hich I have reviewed and from which I will shamelessly filch ideas. I continue my trend of always have the next project chosen by the old Monty Python line: " And now for something completely different."
    I'm out of display room here in Rochester, Minnesota, to this one will travel to our place in Marblehead, Massachusetts which seems a more appropriate home anyway.
     

  13. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from ccoyle in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    I like the idea of detailing the main hold so did that before fastening the false deck down. I didn't think it right to paint this area, so I just weathered the bare planks.
    I doubt they were too concerned with looks down here, so didn't try to perfectly align the drain holes in the floor, which I raised a bit above the structural piece below it which I painted black to the holes look like holes into the bilge.
    I think I will have the (drying) net stored in here, so not that much will be visible anyway. Will have to find an appropriate material for the net.
    Then glued the false deck down with a variety of long reach clamps and small screw clamps.
     
     


  14. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from ccoyle in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    So, onward.
    This is the first ship I've built where the whole structure is made from MDF. The keel piece(s) go together in a very firmly fixed manner with overlapping pieces and pegs. No problem. Dry fit the bulkheads which fit perfectly, glued them in, and added the additional structural pieces.
     
     



  15. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from ccoyle in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    Started new build of the Amati Fifie. Several nice build logs on the forum w;hich I have reviewed and from which I will shamelessly filch ideas. I continue my trend of always have the next project chosen by the old Monty Python line: " And now for something completely different."
    I'm out of display room here in Rochester, Minnesota, to this one will travel to our place in Marblehead, Massachusetts which seems a more appropriate home anyway.
     

  16. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Prowler901 in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    So, onward.
    This is the first ship I've built where the whole structure is made from MDF. The keel piece(s) go together in a very firmly fixed manner with overlapping pieces and pegs. No problem. Dry fit the bulkheads which fit perfectly, glued them in, and added the additional structural pieces.
     
     



  17. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Prowler901 in Fifie by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32 - Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel   
    Started new build of the Amati Fifie. Several nice build logs on the forum w;hich I have reviewed and from which I will shamelessly filch ideas. I continue my trend of always have the next project chosen by the old Monty Python line: " And now for something completely different."
    I'm out of display room here in Rochester, Minnesota, to this one will travel to our place in Marblehead, Massachusetts which seems a more appropriate home anyway.
     

  18. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from popeye the sailor in The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama) by gjdale (Grant) - FINISHED - SierraWest - Scale 1:87 (HO)   
    OK, I have to stop browsing this particular forum. I want this.
    This is exactly how I ended up with a 1 year Agora partworks Cobra Model.
    Drat.
  19. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from FriedClams in The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama) by gjdale (Grant) - FINISHED - SierraWest - Scale 1:87 (HO)   
    OK, I have to stop browsing this particular forum. I want this.
    This is exactly how I ended up with a 1 year Agora partworks Cobra Model.
    Drat.
  20. Laugh
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Keith Black in The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama) by gjdale (Grant) - FINISHED - SierraWest - Scale 1:87 (HO)   
    OK, I have to stop browsing this particular forum. I want this.
    This is exactly how I ended up with a 1 year Agora partworks Cobra Model.
    Drat.
  21. Laugh
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Old Collingwood in The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama) by gjdale (Grant) - FINISHED - SierraWest - Scale 1:87 (HO)   
    OK, I have to stop browsing this particular forum. I want this.
    This is exactly how I ended up with a 1 year Agora partworks Cobra Model.
    Drat.
  22. Laugh
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Canute in The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama) by gjdale (Grant) - FINISHED - SierraWest - Scale 1:87 (HO)   
    OK, I have to stop browsing this particular forum. I want this.
    This is exactly how I ended up with a 1 year Agora partworks Cobra Model.
    Drat.
  23. Laugh
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from mtaylor in The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama) by gjdale (Grant) - FINISHED - SierraWest - Scale 1:87 (HO)   
    OK, I have to stop browsing this particular forum. I want this.
    This is exactly how I ended up with a 1 year Agora partworks Cobra Model.
    Drat.
  24. Laugh
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Egilman in The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama) by gjdale (Grant) - FINISHED - SierraWest - Scale 1:87 (HO)   
    OK, I have to stop browsing this particular forum. I want this.
    This is exactly how I ended up with a 1 year Agora partworks Cobra Model.
    Drat.
  25. Like
    Brucealanevans got a reaction from Allamagoosa in Gunboat Philadelphia by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/24   
    ALERT
    Lesson learned: stain first, THEN place the monofilament pieces. 
    I thought I was very careful with the glue but still ended up with many halos after first staining. Had to spend time touching up with matching paint. Thank heavens this is a slapdash beat up looking ship and end result was ok. 
    Will give stain a sanding when dry, then wipe on a light final coat as I did with the inside. 
     
     
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