RGL

Slowly fitting the topmasts. I just have to glue in the mast tops and align it properly before setting it for good.
 
I had to include the tackle first as the shrouds will run over the top of them so they fall in a single line thus it has to be spliced. The double blocks are Chucks from Syren, drilled out a bit and filed along the sheeve lines to give a little more definition. 
 
shrouds next, then numerous backstays, then stays over the top, Then I'll have to worm the jeers up between them so they hang under it all.

The fiddle block attached to the lower mast tops. These violin blocks are just beautiful, stropped and served with some 0.25mm black thread. I have to do the liners next. I originally had the kit supplied kit violin blocks which I filed down and opened them up to insert sheaves, but just cannot compete or could not reproduce these.
 
Next: It took me two days of studying the AOTS to figure out how to figure out the order and method of the next lot of shrouds and backstays. I've finally got my head around it but it's going to be a major exercise in rigging far more challenging than the shrouds on the lower masts. I spent two days with my little model shipways ropewalk making up the shroud lines in the correct thickness.

I ordered some plans today for a Viking Ship. and a Greek Bireme. Happy days

The first one is a violin block which is a lift for the main yard not two blocks joined, the second is the sheeve which is used with a tackle to pull the upper mast up into position and then a fid (a small wooden chock) is placed through a hole in the bottom of the upper mast which sits across the cross trees to hold it in place and the tackle is removed.

I thought I had just about completed the lower masts. I completed the Futtock Shrouds and hooks with ratlines, made up my Euphroes and crows feet using some 2mm blocks, (the crowsfeet will need some wax as they're fuzzy0. I discovered that i forgot a Mizzen Stay which is painful as it will be fiddly serving it.
 
After I fix this, what do you normally do next? Which mast in what order?

I thought I had just about completed the lower masts. I completed the Futtock Shrouds and hooks with ratlines, made up my Euphroes and crows feet using some 2mm blocks, (the crowsfeet will need some wax as they're fuzzy0. I discovered that i forgot a Mizzen Stay which is painful as it will be fiddly serving it.
 
After I fix this, what do you normally do next? Which mast in what order?

Hi Jeff, I am very glad that you like my work. Today I´m posting last pictures from the production of hull - lanterns. This concludes the first phase of construction.
 
After a short break I will continue with production of masts, sails and rigging.

Wow, I mean wow, Frolich would ask you to make stoves for him. You sir are one of the true artists on the forum.

Wow, I mean wow, Frolich would ask you to make stoves for him. You sir are one of the true artists on the forum.

Tops attached. Finally coming together.

Tops attached. Finally coming together.

Tops attached. Finally coming together.

Stained black and double stropped, with a beige rigging cord, I prefer this method as it is easier to see what I'm doing before I stain it black.

I then placed weights on the blocks to place them under tension so the fall is correct, then stained them which stiffens the rigging line so when I finally get around to the yards they will sit properly. Come on chaps, more Endeavor photos. the Glad Wrap or cellophane is my very cheap version of dust off.

I then placed weights on the blocks to place them under tension so the fall is correct, then stained them which stiffens the rigging line so when I finally get around to the yards they will sit properly. Come on chaps, more Endeavor photos. the Glad Wrap or cellophane is my very cheap version of dust off.

Try making one from flattened brass wire. Have a look at page 1 of my build. Bash it flat with a hammer, drill holes at either end for the side of the cannon, one in the centre for the support strut which you can solder another nail as a support, then file the edges, then blacken or paint.

Mate you are prolific! Such a fast build, well done.

Lower ratlines Complete after several days of non stop sewing.

Lower mast stays completed. All of the stays were made on the Model Shipways ropewalk, and I wormed each of them with smaller thread. I made individual mice for each on my little jig. Futtock staves and catharpins added. I think it is time for the pain of ratlines.

Ratlines! Three days work to get the Starboard side done. 

Ratlines! Three days work to get the Starboard side done. 

Hi All,
 
Well I’ve come across some interesting plans for a scratch built Bomb Vessel Granado Cross
Section over on Model Ship Builders site. Now I’ve never been known to be
impulsive, carry on more then one build at a time or unable to resist the urge
to start another scratch build.
 
Talk about going to the darkside! It’s so dark on this side I’m not sure I’ll ever see light again!  
 
The Bomb Vessel Cross Section has some interesting details both on and below the deck
(i.e. mortar pit and shell room) The plans are based on "Anatomy of the
Ship - Bomb Vessel Granado" by Peter Goodwin and original drawings by
Thomas Slade. All plans were drawn by Jeff Staudt. In total there are 63 pages
of drawings in the set and are very well done.

The scale for this build is a whopping 1:24 (½” to 1’) so it will be interesting building
something at this scale. The single frame pieces are ½” wide and a completed
frame is approximately 13 ½’ wide by 9” high. The keel is ½” wide by 14 ½” long
and over 1 ¼” high at its highest point. There are some frames that are doubled
so they will be 1” wide!
 
I have some Cherry cut offs from a furniture factory and I will be cutting them down to ½”
billets for the frames. I’ll decide the other woods as I go. The main problem I
see is turning the mortar and cannon as I do not have a lathe or mill. Oh well
I’ll cross that bridge when I get there.
 
So here is a look at a couple of sheets of plans to give you an idea of what it will look
like. You also can go to www.modelshipbuilder.com   to see more information.

 
Here is a sample of some of the rough cut Cherry I have.
 

 
You can see that the sides are rough cut so to start I shaved the sides on the
saw to clean them and then ripped them. The below pictures show I ended up with
two pieces of 1/2" x 3" x 14" and one piece at about 1/8" thick.
 


 
I will have to run them through the thickness sander to get them to their finished size.
This should be interesting and will take a good while to complete.

Lower mast stays completed. All of the stays were made on the Model Shipways ropewalk, and I wormed each of them with smaller thread. I made individual mice for each on my little jig. Futtock staves and catharpins added. I think it is time for the pain of ratlines.

Too much? My wife bought this last night on an online auction for $130. I've been in a quandry for ages about building a glass cabinet, but this kind of solved it! 

I AM REPOSTING MY LOG FROM MSW 1.0.  I HAD SAVED THIS LOG IN PDF AND WILL TRY TO SUPPLY ALL THE UPDATES AND PICS I HAVE EXTRACTED FROM THIS FILE. THE LAST COUPLE UPDATES FROM THE LOG WENT DOWN WITH THE SHIP, BUT I WILL TRY TO RECONSTRUCT THEM ALONG WITH THE LATEST UPDATES AND BUILD’S CURRENT STATUS.
 
This is the start of my build log for the partial scratch build of the Bellerophon option of the Amati Victory Models Vanguard kit scale 1:72.
I wanted to see, if it was cost effective to build this kit by first ordering the plans from Online Hobbies. After reviewing the plans and going through the parts list, I found it to be cost effective. My estimate is between 50-60% savings. Doing this way will mean much more labor though. I used an evaluation copy on Corel Draw’s site to see if I could use it for my needs of importing and making drawings acceptable for making laser cut sheets. The program could do everything I required, so I purchased it on Ebay for a very reasonable price (<$70).
Below is a list of suppliers for this build so far.
Online Hobbies – cast and etched parts sets plus additional material. They are presently working on filling that order.
National Balsa – Basswood sheets for bulkheads and other cutouts. Purchased two laser cut sheets of walnut for gun carriages plus other items that I thought wouldbe difficult to scratch build. Working with Eric at National Balsa was very easy. After a couple of emails, sending my two drawings, I received material in about five days. The laser charge was about $40 that included the price of the walnut material ($12-15 per sheet for cutting). Thanks to Chuck for giving the idea for this.
JBModel - for 18 9lb barrels. These are the best I have seen. Very representative for ships of this time period. I looked in the book Arming and Fitting Of English Ships of War and these are exactly what is shown there. From order to receiving was a week. Very satisfied and highly recommend.
Cornwall Models - ordered 2mm sheets plus a couple of other things. The ship boats are made from this size and didn’t want to mess with using 3/32” (2.4mm) instead. I will say, if living in the US, my order took just about a month to receive. They do specify this on their site just beware that it could take this long when ordering. No problem here, but you do wonder if something happened to your order.
Hobby Mill - ordered maple strips for the decking plus a couple of other items. What can be said, but his product is the best and what a gentleman. He is super to work with.
Now for the build. I'm not building this one in the normal order. I have started with the 9 and 18 lb gun carriages. Size dimensions were taken from Ship Modeler's Shop Notes book. Attached is a pic of the partially built carriages. I'm presently making the eyelets and rings for these using #32 and #28 gauge black annealed wire.
There are ten eyelets and five rings per carriage and deck mounting, so there's several hundred needed. I've almost completed all.
Next I will be building the five ships boats before I start the ships hull.
That's it for now.
Happy modeling,
 
 
P1000358.jpg
Description: Gun carriages and some examples of laser cut parts