FriedClams

I have added the air and communication lines using beading strips of two different sizes. They are linked together every 3 inches with a piece of heat shrink tube that was shrunk with heat from the soldering iron barrel.
I made the adjustment valve in the air line starting with hex bar and turning two parts that were soldered together and then added the knob on a locating pin. Lines were attached to the helmet and junction on fore deck. I talking with Chuck he stated that the main amount of work by the lineman was done on the fore deck when the diver was in the water. He said the boat was not anchored and that the diver at times would pull the boat to a new location.
 
I also added the window glass to both the boat and the helmet, so look for reflections in the pictures. I used 1 mm acrylic sheet and cut each to fit. I laid the the clear acrylic over the plans and made each score with a Xacto blade and broke on the cut lines. Then the edges and corners were sanded to fit. For the helmet I used a circle guide to scribe a circle and then cut and sanded to fit each window.
 
Here is a series of pictures, I am finished with the boat at this point unless I discover an additional detail that would further enhance the presentation. So far the only ones that comes to mind are a retrieval rope that attaches to the diver that is hanging on the cleat right now and a gathering net for the abalone.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now back to writing and the Constitution and wait to find out the next step for the Dirty Dozen with the Museum folks. My wife suggested that if the diver is displayed sitting on the engine compartment near the ladder there is no need to build an engine.
 
This has been a fun build and I have learned a great deal about abalone fishing, boat building and added a new skill of working with Sculpty.

Pat, Bob, Jack Thank you!
 
Jack it is a polyester based cast part. The reason I suspect this is because back in college I use to take automotive body putty and thin it with Fiberglas resin and use the amount of the body putty hardener to set the cure rate based upon the mixed color. Also the viscosity can be adjusted by the amount of resin used to thin the body putty. One thing to also keep in mind is that the more resin the greater the shrink rate. Mold release is needed for mold material other than silicone. 
 
This was way before cast urethane materials. When sanding the fiquire it has the same polyester smell and feel as the parts I used to cast. The figures being cast in China this combination makes sense. With the numerous bakings at 275 degrees there was no perceivable impact on the cast figure.  

Ken, beautiful job on the dive suit. It sure looks real.  Question: What material is the figure made of? It looks like plastic, but I doubt it is since it would probably melt or deform under the temperatures required to bake the Sculpty.

Whilst waiting for some supplies to arrive, I got to work on the pilot house. The house sits on a raised base and that was the first order of business.
 
Here is how I made the base. I made it this way to be able to more easily and in the round up of the bulkhead frame tops into the bottom of the base.
 
Russ 

Lawrence:
Thanks for the kind words. I also find the lines of these boats very appealing, especially up forward. The planking should be fun.
 
Russ
 
 

Michael:
Thanks. The sheer line is an important design feature of these luggers. If it is not correct, it will show.  
Russ
 
 
 

I like the sheer line of this hull, a graceful curve, Looking forward to the planking Russ.
 
Michael

Well, I have done it now. No guts, no glory. The bulkhead frames are glued in. No turning back now.
Russ

Pat:
Thanks. I am very pleased with the shape thus far.
 
Russ

Kees:
Thanks. I also think she has nice lines. The upright stem is an attractive feature on these boats.
 
Russ

...and slowly she emerges That is really looking like the form of yet another very nice set of lines Russ
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice lugger and I especially like the sharp curved lines of the ship. A real wave cutting bow. You can find these shapes back in modern ships today like the new SAR boats of the KNRM and pilotboats.

Here we have the framing almost complete. The knightheads will go in next. Once the framing is complete, I will spend some time fairing the hull. That process will take several days to make sure I have a good fair surface for planking. Once that is complete, I can begin lining off the hull for planking.
 
Russ

Pat:
Thanks. Little by little it is moving along.
 
Russ

That's great progress Russ with a nice transition for the rabbet.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Some more progress. The two pieces of the profile former have been glued together and the reinforcing spline attached to one side. Once the keel, stem, and sternpost have been attached, the other side of the profile former will get a reinforcing piece as well.
 
The stem has been shaped and glued on, and the deadwood and sternpost have been attached to the keel.
 
The profile former is nice and straight so I am glad I made it in two pieces.
 
Russ

Popeye:
Thanks. There are 28 bulkhead frames, including the transom. I had to keep telling myself to take it easy sanding the bevels.
 
Russ 

Hi Russ, just discovered your build. Pulling up a seat in the back to follow along.

Thanks Patrick.  Glad to have you aboard.
 
 
Ron, I'll be building at 1:32.  

What scale are you going to build her in?

Hey Frank - Trust me.  There's no chance of you disappointing us!  I'm gonna be following along as well.  
 
I just have this feeling that she's gonna be a beauty!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Thanks Druxey - thanks Brian. 
 
I hope I don't disappoint!

Having seen the drawings that you are creating to make this build, I am really looking forward to seeing you execute it in wood.  Going to be good!

Lovely subject, Frank. Looking forward to the episodes as they are posted.

Thanks Ron, Jack, and Michael - welcome aboard!