Steve 12345

Hi graham I resize my photos with a program called faststone it's completely free to download no adds no third party involed I've been using it from I joined msw with no problems there is even a tutorial on utube give it a try hope this helps 
 
Steve 

Bulkheads faired - thanks Scott!
More photos:
 




 
 

Glad to see you have started another build I will follow with interest 
 
cheers 
steve

Hi Nigel
 
Am following your build and am impressed with how she is coming along. I have already decided to do the Bounty as my next build....... I already hinted to the Captain what I want for Christmas!
 
The paint work is beautiful and those cannons have come up a treat. Keep up with the postings.
 
Cheers..........Fernando
 
 

I've managed to install the wales.  

 
The outer bulwarks need planking.  Although I had stained the strips with walnut I decided that I'd prefer to go with a painted surface.


 
This is 3 coats of yellow - a couple more to go at least.  It turns out that I'm not a good painter but I'll live with it.  
 
Joshua go me focussed on the gunport frames.  I'm going to have to frame them in - I can't live with them the way they are despite my best intention to do just that!

 
 

Ahoy frankie love your work thanks for the pics on the bounty

Ahoy Shipwrights
                                  Okay long time no see but still here okay fellas here is the final reveal of the Isabella she is finally completed now for Norske Love I will post update pictures of the build I started on her about a month ago so I will start another build thread on her The Love is a older kit 1970s issue like that of Isabella everything has to be cut out by hand I would not have it any other way old school kit verses old school dude.
Frankie Day

Thanks again for likes, views & comments everyone. Hammock netting progressing with three runs left to do (last two on poop deck will be a pain to cut out)! Also got a bit o paint on ye olde bowsprit. The piece of white plastic nestled in the starboard netting is to stop me going boss eyed while threading the near most run of netting!




have fun as always all- got visitors this week coming so shipyard time at a minimum.
 
Keith
 

The next step was to smooth off the ends of the planks.  Once again the shape of the section makes this a very easy process.
 

 
I 2nd planked the  outer hull for the experience.  I am planning to copper plate below the waterline and paint above so it wasn't necessary but I wanted this to be my testbed for various procedures I haven't done before (like getting in the shallow end rather than diving into the deep end!)
 
Next was to cut out the gun ports.  A bit nerve wracking but I thought I could turn the 1st one toward the wall if I botched it too badly.  It worked out ok.
 

 
You might notice in the last photo that the 3 gun ports further from the camera have been framed in while the 3 closest have not.  They are all done now.
 
This is where it stands at the moment.
 

I have do a bit of work on this project before I started this build log - so I'll catch it up with the current state with a couple of posts.
 
The 1st planking of the outer and inner hull is such a breeze - not a taper or a bend in any of the strakes. 
 

 
It was going so easily I forgot to stop on the inner planking to leave a gap for the deck to sit on.  I only had to remove a couple of planks to fix that since the width of deck gap was an integer multiple of the  plank width.  Very considerate if the designer - thank you whoever you are!
 

Hi Don and Steve.
 
Don, the kit as provided suggests painting the lower hull copper coloured.  I've ordered some copper foil tape so that I can try out coppering.  I'm considering copper for the Prince de Neufchatel and for the Syren so a warm up is in order.  
 
I think this is a fun looking build and it has several positives associated with it:
-  it is easy to plank so I can get to other aspects of the build
- it is going to take up a lot less display space when complete
- it has significant but not overwhelming standing rigging
- the cross-section lets me see what goes on below decks since most POB kits don't bother.
- it will be a a great test bed for steps I have to learn - rigging the cannons, 2nd planking, copper plating, and square rigged mast configuration.  
 
 

This is a older kit picked up from a estate - someone with a large stash of model ship kits.  I bought 2 of the last 3 available - I didn’t need the wood for a  scratch build Essex so I only purchased the 2 kits.
 
I gather Aeropiccola has been out of the model ship kit business for many years but I can't be sure of the date of the kit.  The plans indicate they were published in 1984.  
 
Since this an old kit I'll show the contents.  I am quite satisfied with the quality of the parts.  The plans consist of 2 sheets of detail images and construction expansions.  The instructions are very brief but I think the plans are going to guide the build quite well.
 
 


 
 

Hello Everyone,  
 
I've managed to squeeze in some building time whilst watching the Tour so here's the latest progress report.
 
This part is about my experience with the castings along the side of the hull. They ended up looking very impressive, better than I had first expected and once again I'm pleased with what Euromodel had done here especially with old technology.
 
I first copied the relevant part of the plans to help identify and make sense of the many cast parts. The casting was crisp and very good indeed needing little cleaning. Most of the pieces needed adjusting to make them a good fit, on some I cut out the figures themselves and fixed them into position separately. Once the fit was established I cut out the gun ports in them. I found doing all this difficult as the many parts needed to be accurately held in place without glue so that the cutting and filing resulted in a good fit.
 
That's the good part, now the not so good. I had made the hull as near to the plan as possible thinking that was the right thing to do, however when I offered up the castings along the waist I saw that they did not match up with the plan by a fair amount!  The lower trim of the casting should have lined up with the centre of the gun ports, my castings were not the same as the plans but were too deep by about 5mm and ended up level with the lower edge of the gun ports. It was not possible to reduce their height, I had the choice of putting them on as they were or adding to the height of the sides. Not knowing how raising the height would effect the rest of the castings I mounted them as they were. With that wonderful thing called hindsight I should have, when building the hull made the planking higher then, after putting on the castings sanded it level with them. I can live with it as they look good and only those that are in the know will notice anything wrong.
 
I painted all the castings gold and painted the hull behind them black before fixing them into place. I scraped the paint away from the glue contact surfaces so that a good bond would be made. After they were fitted I rubbed a little filler into the joints then touched up the paintwork.
 
I fitted the rail capping using 4 x 1 mm strip, using my soldering iron to get the curved ends, again it worked well.
 
I also touched up the red port linings as they were looking a bit jaded and cleaned up the hull. I also couldn't resist putting on a first coat of diluted poly. I wanted to see how it would take after all the glue that had been spilt on it before deciding whether to paint bellow the water line or not.  The good news is that it went on perfectly with no staining issues, just a lovely even colour of the wood, looks great so the decision is made, natural wood finish. There are no pictures of this stage yet, I'm waiting until it's properly dry before I handle it.
 
I have decided not to use the stand provided so got I nice piece of mahogany to use as a plinth, I'll sort out some columns as well to stand it on. I know I should have arranged a fastening in the keel for this at an early stage but I'm sure that I can come up with something pretty secure.  Watch this space.
 
 
Ken
 

Hello Everyone,
 
The tour isn't on for another hour so I've got a little time with the build.
 
I copied the plans again, This time to try and sort out the cast ornamentation. I managed to identify and place it on both the plan and the hull. I realize that it's not a simple task, it's again pretty nice casting but nothing will fit together without quite a bit of work, again I'm unsure of the best way to tackle this part but I'll chip away at it.
 
Nice picture Dilbert, looks like a great place to stop for lunch, boats and bikes what's not to like.
 
A couple of bike pictures as I'm in that mood. I'm usually one of the idiots waving big green hands at stage finishes and one of me crossing the Alps to get to the race, but I have to carry my own luggage. 
 
Sjors,  I'll put a Victory beer on ice for you.
 
 
Ken
 
 

 

 

Hello Everyone,
 
Just a little more progress, bit by bit it's getting done.
 
I have now finished the upper strakes, nothing of interest to report there. I then did the side fenders, I always try and find an easy way to do things and the fenders were no exception. They are made from 3x5mm walnut, I felt that these would be extremely difficult to bend to the shape of the hull, some builders make up templates and cut them from larger stock to shape, most soak them for a long time, but that would still be difficult to bend. I decided to use 3x2mm strip instead, using two, layered for each fender, sticking one down and then the other on top. Being much thinner they were easy to bend to shape without any soaking or aids and when done and sanded you would be hard pressed to tell that they weren't one piece, it was simple. I stained them a dark oak again for the contrast. 
 
Photos shows the results.
 
I'm sorry to say that I'll be doing much less building for a few weeks so there'll be fewer posts. I'm a keen club cyclist and until recently still raced as an amateur so you will understand that whilst the Tour de France is on I will be giving that my full attention.
 
 
Ken
 
 
 

thanks Don.....plastic used to be my medium.   I feel I've lost a little of the touch,  since moving on into wood,  but I still enjoy it.   planes and cars seem more plausible to me though....the admiral might be rubbing off on me.......they just don't have the look,  unless they are of wood     thanks for the very kind comment.   thanks to all who hit the like button     I haven't made any more progress on her........and I'm running the gambit with the work week at the moment.   I was {still am till they are done} at the table with the sails,  sewing them using the helping hands.   there's only two more left...once they are done,  cemented on the model and rigged....the all that is left,  are the braces,   the tack lines,  and the anchors.........oh.....and the yo ho ho pirate flag too  
 
while I was sewing the main course sail.........I did something that will be added on another project {not a new one........one in progress  }   that will be coming soon.   I appreciate you all look'in in........the best thing I'm finding with this hobby,  is sharing it with friends!   

Bowsprit rigging is complete! Sprtisail yard was added as well as the braces and now an area of the ship is complete. I've moved on to rigging the braces on the foremast yards now. They are fairly simple to rig just a lot of blocks to place first which brings me to a possible annoyance; I may be running short on blocks. I'm going to get a count on how many I still need and see how many I actually have left but as the drawer with the blocks for this ship is looking rather bare, I fear I may be short. At this point though I will probably see if I can rob some off of another kit or I may get lucky and have some of the right size in the extras cabinet. Worse case I can always make a few as I don't think I am going to be missing that many, maybe 6 or so. Casualties of the build as several were split or otherwise damaged beyond use, some were ate by the carpet monster, I'm sure some were lost during the move and who knows what else. Not the worst thing to happen just annoying at this point.
 
Enough of all that, enjoy the pictures and I will probably have some more soon!
 

thanks Scott for the kind comment.........I'm not that good with weathering and stuff.   it's just something I tried out........happy to see that it came out good and well received.  as for the ship's boats,  they were the same....the smaller one inside the larger one.......looked terrible.  I was going to leave it at that,  not being able to come up with a good solution.....but then I stumbled onto that thwart part in my plastic bin {I have a small collection of plastic spare parts}.   with a little modification,  I was able to fit it into the large boat and add the chocks.  I've seen these chocks in other logs...that's where I got the idea from in the first place     I hope it works for you as it did me.
 
I dunno Carl........a quicky to me,  is something you throw together fast....no mods and extra stuff to slow you down.   I wasn't even going to paint it at all     then the crazy thoughts came and blew all that out of the water.  I don't regret though....the model did come out looking better for it.   I'm waiting for the finish to come.......I have other fish to fry  
 
 
OK......what did I do yesterday?   well.......I did the rigging for the fore top and top gallant sails.....

...and then tied the main course sail to it's yard........cementing it in place on the main mast.

so,  now I'm down to two sails {cripes........I'm beginning to sound like the count on Sesame Street}......three billowing sails..........TWO billowing sails!........ {and then you hear Sonny and Cher.....
....and the beat goes on...........
.....the beat goes on.        NA-NU..........NA-NU!

Whilst waiting for the glue to dry on the on the keel and bulkhead frames I thought I should start on some of the deck furniture. The quality of some of the furniture is pretty good but I thought some of it I would try my hand on doing it from solid wood rather than the kit plywood (eg. the tiller and barrel base). I've never done this before but, hey, I can only botch it up and try again! I did complete the cargo hatch as the grating supplied was very good. Below are some pictures of the reasonably simple process of putting it all together. I've already put one coat of matt satin finish and will give it a slight sanding before another coat is put on. I've also started on the companionway. When building this I realised that the walls would need some bracing whilst building it and hence I have put some bracing on the inside of the companionway....perhaps over engineered however it is very solid and ready for the outer planking. The kit provides silver ash strips for this but am thinking that I may use walnut planking which I have left over from my Mermaid build......just thought it would contrast nicely to the silver ash decking.

So, after a couple of very chilly days in Hobart I've started in earnest on the Norfolk. Below are a few photos of the start of the build. I must say that the laser cuts are very precise and needed very little in terms of sanding to fit in the bulkheads to the keel. I only had to do some very minor sanding for one or two to slot in nicely. The bow fillers were a little more work and , although not completely sanded I am happy with the way they are turning out. 

Hi Popeye yeah think I'll keep the snake it seems rather a unique feature to me now that you have showed your like for it , as for the rat lines I love tying those things for some reason it sorta gives me a free evenings work where no brain power is required now getting the shroud line deadeye all the same height I find that frastrating it's a very very fine balance trying to leave a we bit to Allow for tension but not to much that there not level or leave to much and there to low I have tried every jig in the book for deadeye and ratline but have had no success so I try to eyeball both 

Popeye you have a very keen eye I think you are 100% right on the rat lines I knew there was something bugging me about them , I had went with billings suggested 10mm gap and the line I'm using is slightly smaller than the billings stuff I don't think that helped either ,don has suggested the 8 mm and I checked mine some even creep away to eleven mm in places so that 3mm difference could easily equate to six inches in the real world thanks for calling me out on this I played about a bit with them earlier to see if they will still move about which they actually can but if  I have any trouble with that I will redo them thanks 

hello all lastnight I rather casualy wrote ill just need to do the ratlines tomorrow evening and that will complete the foremast ,I thought about that statement this morning and thought again but however the ratlines were not that big of a deal and are infact complete
 
first pic shows how I waste more thread than use but I get frustrated trying to use small pieces and would rather buy more than worry about wastage
 

little dab of watered down white glue on the outside knots only its not necessary to glue all the knots

and here they are trimmed up and my little delicate knot tying fingers

here is a drawing I keep near by for when I have brain  freeze and forget how to tie

I also added this detail to the forestay copied from my victory plan and as far as I know not used on bounty I just liked the look of it and felt it added something but on reflection may cut this back out
not sure so I will sleep on it

thanks again for viewing and commenting
 
 
steve
 
 

Hi Popeye yeah think I'll keep the snake it seems rather a unique feature to me now that you have showed your like for it , as for the rat lines I love tying those things for some reason it sorta gives me a free evenings work where no brain power is required now getting the shroud line deadeye all the same height I find that frastrating it's a very very fine balance trying to leave a we bit to Allow for tension but not to much that there not level or leave to much and there to low I have tried every jig in the book for deadeye and ratline but have had no success so I try to eyeball both 

Popeye you have a very keen eye I think you are 100% right on the rat lines I knew there was something bugging me about them , I had went with billings suggested 10mm gap and the line I'm using is slightly smaller than the billings stuff I don't think that helped either ,don has suggested the 8 mm and I checked mine some even creep away to eleven mm in places so that 3mm difference could easily equate to six inches in the real world thanks for calling me out on this I played about a bit with them earlier to see if they will still move about which they actually can but if  I have any trouble with that I will redo them thanks