aliluke

Hi Rob

If you single plank the planks need to be thicker to get the right thickness on the upper works for the cap rails and gun ports. For this reason alone, even though I painted, I double planked. I would definitely recommend upgrading the decking - my kit supplied stuff was not good and I've seen several others regret not doing this simple upgrade.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Ron

Great work. I'm guessing that the bulwarks at the bow were difficult but your result looks very crisp and clean. Look forward to more updates.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Jason

You are way ahead of me in understanding rigging - these answers are more by intuition:

1. - I'd leave off all rigging and blocks directly associated with the sails if you aren't going to add them. (I may be wrong here). However I would include the various eyes that go with the sails. There are plenty of spare eyes on my AVS that are about sails.

2. - No idea

3. - I'd glue the mast in. I remember this discussion in the past and I would not like to rely on the shrouds to make things just right. Why add that complication to a complicated element. Epoxy glue the masts when every instrument you can have at hand that can satisfy you that they are plumb port starboard and to the correct rake. They will never move again at their base so get it right...

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Richard

You are moving along very well. One suggestion is to make the gun ports narrower than the pattern suggests. I take this from my Fly pattern where the ports are arguably too wide. That might not apply to Mercury though however it is easy to widen a narrow port and much harder to make a wide port narrower.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi rob

Looking good in all respects.

One thing I've realised from my photos and memory is that I fitted the false poop deck (cabin deck or whatever it should be called on this type of ship) before fitting the stern extensions. That is too late in your case but no worry. I would definitely suggest you dry fit, if not permanently fit, that deck soon. I'm not saying it is a critical part of the sequence but getting that deck into sync with the stern and its lower edge is much easier, in my opinion if it is fitted earlier. I think my log shows it and all other false decks going in very early in build. For instance, I put in the main false deck before doing the bow fillers. I have found some more photos if you want and can forward them by a PM.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Bill

I'd be inclined to do the opposite of your approach. I'd lower the bulkheads by deepening the slot until their top edge is flush with the centre keel. If, on their lower edge, they are still too high above the bearding line I'd add shims to those edges until they all lined up. Test the shimming and fairing with a random plank and see how it flows. I think messing with the false keel is dangerous and getting the bulkheads to settle flush with it is as much about the outer planking as it is about the deck sitting properly. I had all of these issues on my AVS and never altered anything other than the bulkheads (and I had to alter them severely - shims and fairing).

That's my opinion - it is an interesting dilemma and I wonder what others think?

By the way, very nice lines on this ship - looking good.

Cheers

Alistair

P.S. I also add the keel and stem post before fixing the bulkheads in place. This allows this addition to be done on a flat surface and too be made very strong. Leave off the stern post until later. Others disagree with this, others agree with it...a coin toss and personal preference.

I have to join the chorus of applause. Truly stunning work Ron. Incredible accuracy, a pleasure to admire.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Bill

I agree with Lou in all respects. The plans are just plans. You can be very intuitive about the build around the planking. Get the planking flow right with respect to the frames you have and go for it. If the hull shape doesn't exactly match the plans; no one will know.The biggest lesson, that I still forget, is getting the relationship between the deck, wale and gun port sills right...but that is later. Good work on the keel flattening - you are underway and your woodworking skills make this one to watch.

Cheers

Alistair

Looking really good Ollie - you are on to it - the flow of the planks looks just right.

My preference is to fix the keel and stem well before the first planking is in place but I might be a rare voice for that opinion. Certainly I'd lay them before laying the second layer so that you have something to dress the second layer to, Leave off the stern post though until after the second layer is finished. It is very difficult to dress and sand that layer to the stern if the stern post is already in place. My opinion and many might disagree...

Cheers,

Alistair

Hi Richard

I look forward to this one unfolding as well. Good call on the plywood gun port pattern - mine, on the Fly, is still causing me grief well after the second planking is finished and I'll take your approach should I come across another one on a future build.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Rob

The whole stern area is perhaps the most tricky part of the AVS in my experience. The windows are tiny and very fragile but you need to use them as a template for the framing pieces. One small tip - after removing them from the billet, I separately labelled them in in small containers as it quickly becomes very difficult to tell the inboard windows from the outboard ones!

As all AVS builders will all so tell you, you really need to fair the frames up to the stern counter. If it not faired enough the planks will tend to snap as they bend up. I'm looking at your last photo with the filler - the frame forward of that needs to be heavily faired, much more so than you'd expect.

Look forward to more - a trip down memory lane.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Dave

Good miss on the break-in!

Couple of thoughts for you as you continue planking:

- Add balsa fillers at the bow and stern - it is not too late to do this and will really help at these stressed areas.

- Your very next planks should taper upwards. Start the taper quite far back from the stem and stern. You need to get the planks rising as soon as possible especially at the bow.

 - Lay the garboard plank early - that will give you a real feel for the planks in between the wale and the keel.

I haven't planked Granado but the above advice gave me a good go at HMS Fly and I don't think the hull shapes are too much different. I might be trying to teach you to suck eggs but I see planking here go astray for a lack of a few simple tips. Equally, I also see planking here that blows me away for its accuracy!

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Bill

If that false keel is still warped after it is joined you must flatten it. I had this problem and got the keel flattened by wetting it, heavily weighting it and drying it several times over. It finally flattened. DO NOT put the bulkheads onto a warped keel - it will cause you no end of problems later. I'm sure you know this.

Look forward to your build and the interesting timbers you are planning to incorporate into it. I used boxwood for my hull and it is a very nice timber to work with, so much better than walnut which is, comparatively, brittle and splinters more easily.

Cheers

Alistair

A stunning model Doug, so crisp and clean, worth much more than a "Like This"!

Cheers

Alistair

A very fine lantern there. As a diversion I'm going to have crack at my Syren Models lantern kit this week. We'll see how I go. I'll be very happy if it ends up as good as yours. Your whole model looks fantastic and getting these little parts right makes it sparkle.

Cheers

Alistair

Well Bob looks like we finished our second layer at the exactly the same time. Like you I'm glad it is behind me. You have done a great job there - nice and tight (much tighter than my efforts).

One issue I have had is a slight discolouration of the boxwood where the planks butt together. I'm guessing this is because the glue (I use CA) is soaking into the end grain of the plank. It is not too bad but will not sand out. You don't appear to have this problem. Any tricks there that you could share? I think next time I will lacquer the cut ends before gluing - do you do that?

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Larry

I agree get that garboard plank in now. I usually install that plank and several rows above it much earlier than you have. Perhaps also shorten it at the bow so that it is parallel to the keel and doesn't rise up the stem at all. That will increase the space for subsequent planks. Definitely you'll need stealers, maybe more than are shown on your plans, and if you make them and the adjoining planks full width the gap at the stern should close quite quickly. The only other choice - which is harder - is to take off a few rows of planks at the bow and taper them further back along the hull to increase the rise of the planks at the stem. From the photos it appears the lowest rows of your planks are parallel to the keel or even turning down slightly when they should still be rising.

Although the above may not be heartening, I hope it helps.

Cheers

Alistair

Good to see another AVS underway. It is a great kit and makes a very nice finished piece. I would recommend that you fair the bulkheads after you have fixed them to the false keel. I found with my AVS that I had to add material to some bulkheads rather than removing it and it is impossible to tell which requires what until they are all in place and you test the flow of the planking. That said your kit may be more accurate than mine was.

I'll follow your log.

Cheers

Alistair

As Capt. Haddock might say - "Great snakes" (Snake) that is really good work. You are on the finishing straight to a fantastic model. I'll be looking and learning here for my next rig. Hats off to you.

Cheers

Alistair

I'm still following Glenn! Your work is great and I really liked your planking tutorial. Having nearly finished planking the Fly I can't imagine doing a hull this size - in fact I probably won't. Doesn't mean I'm going to stop following your progress though. Please keep posting.

Small question - an opinion? - you paint the trucks on your cannons black. Many leave them natural. Is there a right way from a historical point of view?

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Ron

The lower deck looks good. I agree with Steve - ignore the bulkheads when nailing. May I also suggest a lighter touch with the caulking and treenails on the upper deck? At the scale you working caulking and nails would be very faint. I use wood paste for the nails and a pencil for the caulking. It is all personal preference of course...

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Ken

Don't look for Uhu, just look for a universal glue. Uhu is the brand we can get here but I'm sure there are much better brands where you are. The trick is to find a glue that sticks to non-absorbent surfaces, cleans up easily and doesn't fog acetate. Maybe some one else here knows the right stuff in the USA????

Cheers

Alistair

Jason - I reckon you are well on your way to exceeding my first go at rigging ten times. Your work looks great - perfect in fact. I don't know about Hypo glue but suggest a toothpick is the gentlest way to remove any excess glue. The toothpick doesn't sand or gouge but can remove stuff you don't want . I've found that little tidy ups are a constant and a constant battle. The further you get on in the build the more gentle you need to be with the fix.

That said - you are making a model that I'd aspire to. Brilliant work!

Cheers

Alistair

Ken

You should be able to get a clear, thin acetate sheet from an art supply shop. It is quite rigid even when very thin. Also very easy to cut. The next trick is to find a glue to fix it in place as CA glue will make it go foggy (in fact even using CA close to it can make it fog so it pays to mask off the windows after glazing if you are using CA nearby for other pieces). I use a universal glue called Uhu Glue in NZ. It sticks quite well and is easy to get any excess off with a toothpick. No idea what name it will have in the USA...

The other choice is a liquid glaze like Microglaze. Comes out of the tube like a white glue but dries completely clear. Difficult to apply evenly though and sits between the window frames rather than behind them.

Them's my thoughts.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Ron

I think 65mm is much too short. The AOTS for Endeavour at 1/96 has them at about 88mm which translates to 150mm, more or less, at 1:54. The rule of thumb is about 26 feet which equals about 145mm at 1:54. Somewhere in that region - 140mm to 150mm is right for your scale. I also reckon a 3 butt shift is better than a 4. The deck layout is actually really complex so given that the deck is a simulation a more intense shift suits better in my opinion. However the short plank lengths are much too intense.

Just my thoughts - looks good and I'll keep up with your build.

Cheers

Alistair