garyshipwright

Thanks every one and those folks for there likes. I have got the stove further along and do think  I have come close to the cast iron look, at least as close as my skill will let me. Well back to work on her gun deck guys. Here is some updated photo's guys, and Mr Jones finally got a paint job along with the stove. Some were he seem to have picked up a slop bucket. Now I wonder where he got that from. Thanks again guy's.
 
Gary

Thanks, Sherry
 
A test to see how to make the top of the shroud chain plates. the first test was a bit rough.
after fretting out the shape on a scrap piece I annealed it then curled the loop with some round nosed pliers the taper could be longer 
on these pliers.

 
silver soldering
 

 
The loop is a little too small and I overheated the metal, also I should have closed the loop a little better the joint was not good.
 

 
Second test with a larger  and wider loop
 

 
ready to solder the small piece if silver solder is wet with the Vigor liquid flux.
 

 
soldered
 

 
cleaned up with emery and steel wool
 

 
Checking the look, I think I will taper the plates down to the wooden standoff rather than have the cut shoulder.
 

 
Tomorrow I will make the loops on the chainplates.
 
Michael
 

Goose-neck Part 2
 
continuing on this picture does show the roller reefing that inspired my version.
 

 
the worm was held in place with two retainers that were filed up and bolted with 2x56 round headed machine screws, the shaft through the worm is 1/8th diameter filed square at each end, so the the reefing can happen from either side.
 

 

 

 
The part of the goose neck that is fitted to the mast was inspired by one from Cockwells web site .
 
The first step was to machine up the block to mate to the boom(this needed extensive fining to allow the boom to swing when I mated the two parts together) the top and bottom straps were silver soldered to the block this also annealed the bands.
 

 

 

 
I used this same technique for the base step band.
 
The soldered and formed piece. ready for clean up, .. files, emery paper , steel wool .
 

 
Final assembly
 

 

 
end of roller reefing
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Tim, Bob, Daniel, Carl, Druxey, thank you very much for taking the time to look in and share your thoughts.
 
Mark, The Mast step was pretty straight forward I annealed the .062 brass wrap around piece first(heat to red then let cool)then folded it around the wood first by using a small clamp to hold the strip evenly in the centre of the strip. once it was u shaped then clamping across the sides and finishing the wrap. The bottom edge was cleaned up on a sheet of 240 emery paper carpet taped down on a flat board of MDF.
I then silver soldered the wrapper to the base sheet with the lowest melt temp easy-flo solder ( I forget the temp)
 
The clean up was done with sanding sticks and the hole was slotted by clamping in the mill vice and using a 1/8th 2 flute end mill cut the slots which entailed rotating to do the stern abd port and starboard sides. The relief on the bow or clamping side was fretted out with a jewelers saw.
 
a final clean up with medium steel wool.
 
Here are some step by step pictures of the roller reefing and the goosneck.
 
The roller reefing was inspired by a photo on the web and I cannot remember the site so I cannot show the photo.
I had a worm drive in the scrap box and needed to make worm gear to match (loosely) so I stuck the worm into some Milton Bradley mock up clay(auto-body design clay, plasticine would have worked equally well) to see the angle to rotate the vice. I have the mill vice sitting on a 12 inch rotary table on the mill. then using a 30 tooth clock gear out of the scrap box  as an index I used a 1/16 end mill to rough cut the teeth.
 

 

 
The worm was relieved at each end to leave just a few turns in the centre.
 

 

 
The end of the boom was drilled out by using a bushing jig that was turned up on the lathe.
 

 

 
Next the goose-neck piece for the boom, this was machined from a 1 inch cube of brass and had a 3/8 drill rod shaft soldered in with soft solder.
 

 

 
The section slide into the boom the boom was held to the gear with a piece of brass tube machined down to the right diameter from a 3 inch brass 3/4 inch plumbing nipple. the boom was chiseled to accept the brass tube-like sleeve the gear was attached with brass machine screws. and the boom with #1 wood screws.
 
End of Part 1
 
Michael
 
 
 

A bit more work on the big build today. I started to bring the rough bulwark rail into shape, while waiting for paint to dry.
 

 

 
This evening I started the base of the mast, the mast will be stepped on the deck with the king post underneath to the keel.
 

 
Fretted out the base sheet and annealed a strip and bent it around the base, Cleaned up the parts with a file and silver soldered them together, It still needs a bit of clean up I do that tomorrow.
 

 
I drilled some drainage holes at the base to let any water out of the base of the mast.
 

 
Now a long shot, the mast is a snug fit in the fitting. so I was able to get a sense of the whole thing.
 

 
and big me checking things out.
 

 
Michael
 
 

Alfons thank you for your kind remark.
 
A little milestone today i finished the scraping of the deck and then a polish with some Medium Steel Wool
 

 

 
The deck is smooth enough now that it shines in the right light. I can see the stanchions reflected in the deck, so I am pleased with the overall finish of it, I won't put any oil on it until the structures that need gluing have been glued down.
 

 

 
Now I am able to work on the cockpit and cabin structures.
 

 
The main cabin sides are beginning to come together I set the curve of the cabin roof and tapered the length from 12 to 8 scale inches from stern to bow. It just feels better somehow.
 

 
an overall shot I had to use a strap at the bow to stop the hull from sliding around in the cradle while I was scraping
 

 
Michael

John you mean like this.
 

 
I also did a better job on the splicing after revisiting the eye slice that Remco did.
 

Longridge talks about passing the rope through a flame of a spirit lamp to get rid of the fluff, it is amazing what the camera sees that i can't.
 
I had fun with the 4 inch block it has a working sheave but I couldn't find my jar of miniature bearings so opted for a simple shaft through the brass.
 

 
I will do a little more experimenting with the strops, once i get it all figured out I will be able to set up some jigs.
 
Michael

John, Thanks for the info.
Sherry, that you for your kind words.
 
Today I took a break from the treenailing and had a bit of fun with some English Boxwood that I purchased in 1972 it was a small log billet about 24 inches long by about 3 inches in diameter.  Now I know why people use boxwood for model shipbuilding. What a lovely wood to work with.
 

 
1) a small piece cut off the billet

 
2) made a slot with a shortened zip bit that I ground the tip to cut like a fly cutter.


 
3) fretted out an oval with the jewelers saw

 
4) machined up a sheave out of brass and pressure fitted it to the ball race and did some final shaping of the boxwood

 

5)assembled the sheave with a piece of 1/8th brass rod that is a press fit
 

6) added some 1 inch diameter rope which is 1/8thinch  in 1 1/2 inch scale
 

7) tomorrow I will figure out how to attach the blocks rope for attaching to the boom.
 
This was a lot of fun, all the blocks will be made this way. luckily it is not a fully rigged 3 master or I will be 100 before this "tub" gets finished.
 
Michael

Frank thanks for you kind comment.
 
John, I have no Idea what I am going to use it for I just tried it out. What would left hand rope normally be used for?
 
Today I put the rope machine away so that I can concentrate on the boat. I drilled out the holes for the treenails and started to glue them in I decided to use the ordinary carpenters glue without colour.
 

 

 
A slow task but somebody has to do it , It is good to be building again.
 
Michael

Ron glad you are enjoying this.
Daniel thanks.
Sherry, yes that was a fun movie.
Mark, well we needed some bigger rope, so this evening I fixed the bug in the rope walk and made this new 3/4 inch rope for such tasks. as rappelling.
 

 

 

 
Michael
 

Daniel, now my secret is out.
 
Carl don’t tell everyone!
 
Druxley thank you, Your comment gave me an Idea.
 
Russ thanks for looking in.
 
Dafi I am glad that you like it.
 
Well because I spent all day building a rope walk, mini me
wanted to get in on the action so I gave him the rope. At least he has a way of
getting down now Mark
 

 
I heard him muttering all day.
 
Michael


 

Ok here are a few pics showing the relative scale of the pilot cutter.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
It was tough going through the shrinking machine but I managed to stay calm. Normally I am 6 foot 2 inches here I am at 9 1/4 inches tall.
 
Michael

Mark Thanks.
Remco, Thanks I am pretty pleased with it myself.
 
I did a little more work on the cockpit walls today.
 

 
The groove is visible for the gasket around the walls.
 

 
Chiselling out the corner blocks to create the rounded corners.
 

 
The shaping is in the first stage so that I can fit the floor plate.
 

 
Michael

Well that certainly was a bit of a shock.
 
I will not try to rebuild everything back to the begining but here is a brief overview of from there to here.
 
This pilot cutter is based on some plans that were published by MAP
(Model and Allied Press) back in the early 70's and those plans were actually
based on the fishing smack CK482. Those of you who have seen the build in the past
will already be familiar with what I have done so far.
 
The model is

LOD 63 inches

LOA 84 inches

Beam 18 inches

Draft 10 1/2 inches

My intention is to sail this model here are a few pics of the build





The frames are Jellutong, and the planking on the hull is Cedar.





 
The roller reefing is custom built around a worm gear on hand.

The mast is Clear Fir and the boom is Spruce.


 


The deck is double planked the lower planks are white pine glued and treenailed
into place the top planks are clear Fir the caulking is coloured Carpenters
glue the top planks will also be treenailed in place.
 
The cockpit surround is Honduras Mahogany as is the forward hatch and the cabin
sides.
 

 
The underside of the
cockpit coaming the walls will drop into the opening 2 1/14 inches and there
will be a gasket around the edge of the deck under the coaming. The cockpit
will be fixed into the hull with a couple of brass machine screws then a teak
floor grate will cover those. this way I can access the rudder controls and
keep the water
 

 
I have learned form this experience to back up everything and am now building my log in MSword and posting to the site.
 
It is great to have the site back.
 
Michael
 

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary 

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary 

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary 

Hi Alistair. Your very welcome sir. At the moment am still probably go with the frapping and some gun's in different placement like being tied up  but that is hopfully in the near future.
 
Have a small update guys. The planking of the gun deck is finish  and should not be adding any more at the moment. The Captain did come around and talked about overhauling the pumps and bearings and a few other things. The old bushing set was wooden,  and figure I would try to make some metal ones. Figure that if I don't work more with metal, won't ever get any better at it. Do believe I finally figure out and got myself some good drill bits, for drilling very tiny holes in metal. With the sensitive drilling attachment  it helps me big time, from breaking a ton of the small bits. Any way I milled out the shape of the roding's, believe thats what they are called and drilled the holes for the bolts to keep them in place.
 
  The pump housing tubes and main mast partner was taken out and given a new look and then reinstalled , the partner and pump tubes that is. Also added the aft scuttle hatches with the cover some what just sitting on the bottom half. Now I did come across a item and thought it would be nice to add. On Montagu and other 74 gun ships they had this half circle cover, which I believe was made of wood, had one small door in front, just big enough to hand out cartridges,  and covered the scuttle hatch that was used to hand up the cartridges from the orlop deck. This hatch was between the aft riding bitt's.  It probably was stored when they were working the anchors and cables. Another up date in the works folk's.
 
Just something to think about  folks,the next time you have to glue something in place. If you can just peg the item to the hull or deck with maybe a bit of glue on the peg, it just might save you from having a headack on your hands. Just to give you a ideal of this, all of Montagu gun deck planks are only held in place with a tiny bit of glue on the pegs. If I had to tear out or remove some planking all one has to do is pry up the plank sand down the peg's and your ready to go. When I first installed the main partner and pump's very little glue was used and things were more or less just pegged in place. Made removing them a whole lot easier and clean up was a snap. Just something to keep in mind folks. 
Gary 



 

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary 

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary 

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary 

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary 

Thanks Ed and druxey. It has come a long way from just a picture in a book and thanks to you guys for the gentle push to do even better. Of course build's like yours help to set the bar. As far as the scale pig, I just may go to the railroaders to find one and maybe a chicken and cow.  Gary

Hi Greg. It was a mixture of both sir. Gary

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary