garyshipwright

Completed cockpit and Locker.  Man, am I a slow builder.
 
            Bob R.

more photos

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now it begins to outline the final form of this corvette, at least on the starboard side: I fixed the piece of plank molded bow, prepared and glued the other strip molded, smaller, which limits the performance of the formwork and I started to cut and trim oarlocks of double coasts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks guys. Here is my story in pictures of how I built up Montagu hawse timbers. If you have any question please ask. To give one some ideal, the were attach to each other and also to the first cant frame and knight head and then as a assembly was taken off of her stem and sanded down to shape, on the outside and inside. Made it a whole lot easier  when it came to sanding the inside, thats for sure. Gary

After the holidays it starts again with the square frames
 

 

 

 

Hi Mark.  Confusing isn't it. To make this simple for my self, when I made the template for the mid ship beam, all of my beams were cut to the same length as the mid ship beam in length, and all beams were given this round up using a template of the mid ship beam. This way, as the beams were fitted going aft or fwd the round up didn't change but length did bringing the round up under control. I know that when I got to my last beam, being short in length, when I looked at it doesn't seem that there is a lot of round up, but it was right.  Mark you may of already thought about this but the sheer of the deck also comes in to play with the round up of the beams  as they go forward or aft. Hopefully this makes sense. 
 
Gary

As an addition to the previous images here illustrations showing the gun ports lids on the hull.
Please enjoy them:
 

 

The chocks were fitted next.  The edges were highlighted with pencil to make the seams stand out.
 

 

 
The assemblies were then glued in place.  The aft partner was glued using the log pumps to help alignment.  
 

 
After the glue was dry, I cut the mortises for the ledges between the partners carlings and the middle carlings.  Because of the locations of the pumps and the main topsail sheet bitts, only two ledges would fit.  The multiple bolts were added and a coat of finish was applied to seal the bolts in place.  I typically dry-fit the bolts, only using glue if the hole is too large.  The last photo shows how it will look with all six pumps in position.  
 

 

 
 
 
 

Thanks everyone for the "Likes".  
 
My next project is beam set 12, which includes the main mast partners.  The beam set itself is straight-forward.  The main mast partners is similar to the fore mast partners...only larger.  The carlings are half- mortised into beams 11 and 12.  I had previously made the decision not to cut the mortises on beam 11 ahead of time because any mistakes would be very obvious.  My intention was to cut them in once I had the mortises cut on beam 12 so they would be exactly parallel.  I could not cut them to my satisfaction because the upper well was in the way of the chisel.  I did not wish to remove the upper well and possibly damage it so I faked the fore tenon.  In the pictures you can see the recess cut into the carlings for the partners as well as the difference in the thickness of the fore and aft tenons.
 

 

 

 
The next pictures show the fore and aft ends of the carlings after they were installed and before final sanding.
 

 

 
The aft partner was addressed next.  This has octagonal holes cut into it for the pumps.  Now comes the tricky part.  These log pumps extend through the previously cut holes in the lower deck main mast partner and insert into the pump intake lateral to the keel.  They also need to be perpendicular to the keel and slightly canted away from each other.  The holes in the lower deck partner needed to be "adjusted" to accommodate this three dimensional arrangement.  That's a euphemism for totally trashing the holes.  After the aft partner was temporarily glued in place, I inserted the logs down to the hold.  I made a veneer of boxwood and planked over the lower deck partners to disguise the error.  In the third photo you can see the widened hole in the lower deck partner before the repair.  The fore partner was made and the last picture shows it in place.
 

 

 

 

Hi Remco.
I may have a answer for you. According to David Lyon's book The Sailing Navy List, Kingfisher was built in 1770 which and was  burnt in 1778. My  reason for bringing up the 1778 date is the English Navy didn't start using the Brodie stove untill 1781, when the enter into a contract to buy them.  She probably had the fire heath of the old type. From looking in Goodwin's book, The Sailing Man of War, there is a  fire hearth  of 1770, on page 161. From looking at it, one would not need to get all the way around it. Hope this is of some help sir. Ron I do believe that the u shape is were the fire heath it self set sir, and the one grate aft of the Chimney was a steam grate as you said, I do believe. The big pot of the fire hearth probably sat right below it.  
 Gary

Hi all, Thanks for stopping by and all the likes!
 
It’s really nice having a couple of days off with no obligations. You can really get some fun
stuff done. I assembled the main mortar carriage. It was pretty straight forward and like
the deck and beams below, very thick and rugged.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I have held off on the cap square and hinge until I have a cannon to match it to.
 
Now looking ahead to the chain plates here are two pictures showing how the plans depict them.
 

 

 
My question to you is would they be like that or would they be “links” like I did on the Confederacy?
 

 
Thanks
 
 

Hi Alistair. Your very welcome sir. At the moment am still probably go with the frapping and some gun's in different placement like being tied up  but that is hopfully in the near future.
 
Have a small update guys. The planking of the gun deck is finish  and should not be adding any more at the moment. The Captain did come around and talked about overhauling the pumps and bearings and a few other things. The old bushing set was wooden,  and figure I would try to make some metal ones. Figure that if I don't work more with metal, won't ever get any better at it. Do believe I finally figure out and got myself some good drill bits, for drilling very tiny holes in metal. With the sensitive drilling attachment  it helps me big time, from breaking a ton of the small bits. Any way I milled out the shape of the roding's, believe thats what they are called and drilled the holes for the bolts to keep them in place.
 
  The pump housing tubes and main mast partner was taken out and given a new look and then reinstalled , the partner and pump tubes that is. Also added the aft scuttle hatches with the cover some what just sitting on the bottom half. Now I did come across a item and thought it would be nice to add. On Montagu and other 74 gun ships they had this half circle cover, which I believe was made of wood, had one small door in front, just big enough to hand out cartridges,  and covered the scuttle hatch that was used to hand up the cartridges from the orlop deck. This hatch was between the aft riding bitt's.  It probably was stored when they were working the anchors and cables. Another up date in the works folk's.
 
Just something to think about  folks,the next time you have to glue something in place. If you can just peg the item to the hull or deck with maybe a bit of glue on the peg, it just might save you from having a headack on your hands. Just to give you a ideal of this, all of Montagu gun deck planks are only held in place with a tiny bit of glue on the pegs. If I had to tear out or remove some planking all one has to do is pry up the plank sand down the peg's and your ready to go. When I first installed the main partner and pump's very little glue was used and things were more or less just pegged in place. Made removing them a whole lot easier and clean up was a snap. Just something to keep in mind folks. 
Gary 



 

Hello Friends,
many thanks for your nice comments. This is the motivation for the next work.
 
Here is the continuation of the construction of the gun ports lids.
Based on the following pictures the next steps are clear.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 33 – Aft Keelson/Deadwood
 
In the first picture a section of upper keelson tier is being glued to the lower tier.
 

 
I have been using pins with small wood blocks as opposed to clamps when gluing pieces like this.  It is working well, but it is important to size the blocks (or drill the holes) accurately so just enough pin head has to be driven into the wood.  Too much and the pin will bend or be hard to remove.  Not enough and the piece will not be secured.
 
The next picture shows some of the lower keelson pieces glued in place.
 

 
The frame cross spalls are being removed as this works proceeds.  With the lower keelson glued and bolted to through the frames into the keel, the  hull frames are quite secure and no longer need them.
 
The next picture shows the fitting of the last keelson section.
 

 
The last step in fitting these last pieces is to carefully trim the aft ends of the slightly over sized piece for a neat fit against the sternpost knee.  All of the scarph joints were cut before either adjacent piece was installed.  The next picture shows the final fit.
 

 
As I mentioned earlier, the keelson in these long clippers was the main longitudinal member and so it was installed in a straight line from stem to stern, with the deadwood at each end built up on top of it.
 
The next picture shows the first two deadwood sections cut out and and set in place between the keelson and the inner post.
 

 
Once these have been roughly fit, the patterns are removed for final trimming as shown below.
 

 
The last picture shows an upper piece ready for gluing.
 

 
Glue is placed in the gap and the pins driven down for a tight joint fit.  There is still one section above this – in two pieces – that will form the curved top of the deadwood.  All of the sections are also later secured with epoxied copper bolts into the sections below and the inner post. 
 
 
Ed

Hi Remco.  
 
Sorry about that sir, seems that I stopped after I read about when the Brodie came in to the English Navy. There I went again and not looking in these other books. for infomation. For the last couple of days I have been researching Alfreds stove and how to make all the parts and pieces that go in to making one. Figure that I need some practice on my metal work, so why not make a Brodie stove for Alfred. Have been looking in HMS Victory by Bugler on help with this and after you mention Lavery's book, I find all kinds of Dimensions for the stove, so I have to thank you for pointing this out to me.  Do look forward to seeing more on your build, but first I have to go get some more popcorn.   
 
Gary

Hi Remco.
I may have a answer for you. According to David Lyon's book The Sailing Navy List, Kingfisher was built in 1770 which and was  burnt in 1778. My  reason for bringing up the 1778 date is the English Navy didn't start using the Brodie stove untill 1781, when the enter into a contract to buy them.  She probably had the fire heath of the old type. From looking in Goodwin's book, The Sailing Man of War, there is a  fire hearth  of 1770, on page 161. From looking at it, one would not need to get all the way around it. Hope this is of some help sir. Ron I do believe that the u shape is were the fire heath it self set sir, and the one grate aft of the Chimney was a steam grate as you said, I do believe. The big pot of the fire hearth probably sat right below it.  
 Gary

Hi Remco.
I may have a answer for you. According to David Lyon's book The Sailing Navy List, Kingfisher was built in 1770 which and was  burnt in 1778. My  reason for bringing up the 1778 date is the English Navy didn't start using the Brodie stove untill 1781, when the enter into a contract to buy them.  She probably had the fire heath of the old type. From looking in Goodwin's book, The Sailing Man of War, there is a  fire hearth  of 1770, on page 161. From looking at it, one would not need to get all the way around it. Hope this is of some help sir. Ron I do believe that the u shape is were the fire heath it self set sir, and the one grate aft of the Chimney was a steam grate as you said, I do believe. The big pot of the fire hearth probably sat right below it.  
 Gary

Continuing work on the cutter
 
 
After installing the footwaling, the aft platform needed to be cut and installed.  This was made as a "solid" platform.   I cut a guide out of card and used it to trace the rough shape--
 

 
 
This was sanded until it fit reasonably well--
 

 
 
Unfortunately, the platform didn't sit low enough.  Furthermore, and after looking at other model photos, I concluded that the "filler" piece I had put between the platform and the footwaling was a figment of my imagination (but wouldn't it be good to have something there to keep things from rolling under the platform and getting lost?).   The best way to get the platform to sit lower was to notch it around the hull framing, and also notch the upper piece of footwaling.  So, along with removing the filler piece, this I did--
 

 
 
The underside of the platform is not pretty or correct, but that doesn't matter--
 
 
 
 
Looking at these posted photos, the difference in elevation of the platform is hard to see, but it is actually significant, at this scale and detail level.
 
I've put a coat of finish on the platform, footwaling, and interior framing, and the next step will be to install the rising pieces--they support the thwarts.  To the left are some spacing jigs that I made to help me get the risings placed correctly--
 

 
 
Ron

Hi Remco.
I may have a answer for you. According to David Lyon's book The Sailing Navy List, Kingfisher was built in 1770 which and was  burnt in 1778. My  reason for bringing up the 1778 date is the English Navy didn't start using the Brodie stove untill 1781, when the enter into a contract to buy them.  She probably had the fire heath of the old type. From looking in Goodwin's book, The Sailing Man of War, there is a  fire hearth  of 1770, on page 161. From looking at it, one would not need to get all the way around it. Hope this is of some help sir. Ron I do believe that the u shape is were the fire heath it self set sir, and the one grate aft of the Chimney was a steam grate as you said, I do believe. The big pot of the fire hearth probably sat right below it.  
 Gary

Hi Remco.
I may have a answer for you. According to David Lyon's book The Sailing Navy List, Kingfisher was built in 1770 which and was  burnt in 1778. My  reason for bringing up the 1778 date is the English Navy didn't start using the Brodie stove untill 1781, when the enter into a contract to buy them.  She probably had the fire heath of the old type. From looking in Goodwin's book, The Sailing Man of War, there is a  fire hearth  of 1770, on page 161. From looking at it, one would not need to get all the way around it. Hope this is of some help sir. Ron I do believe that the u shape is were the fire heath it self set sir, and the one grate aft of the Chimney was a steam grate as you said, I do believe. The big pot of the fire hearth probably sat right below it.  
 Gary

Hello Mr Frolick. Outstanding sir and will come in handy. Am quite sure sir that a lot of modelers will find this information very very usefull such as myself. Once again thank you sir and Happy New Year. Gary

Hi Alistair. Your very welcome sir. At the moment am still probably go with the frapping and some gun's in different placement like being tied up  but that is hopfully in the near future.
 
Have a small update guys. The planking of the gun deck is finish  and should not be adding any more at the moment. The Captain did come around and talked about overhauling the pumps and bearings and a few other things. The old bushing set was wooden,  and figure I would try to make some metal ones. Figure that if I don't work more with metal, won't ever get any better at it. Do believe I finally figure out and got myself some good drill bits, for drilling very tiny holes in metal. With the sensitive drilling attachment  it helps me big time, from breaking a ton of the small bits. Any way I milled out the shape of the roding's, believe thats what they are called and drilled the holes for the bolts to keep them in place.
 
  The pump housing tubes and main mast partner was taken out and given a new look and then reinstalled , the partner and pump tubes that is. Also added the aft scuttle hatches with the cover some what just sitting on the bottom half. Now I did come across a item and thought it would be nice to add. On Montagu and other 74 gun ships they had this half circle cover, which I believe was made of wood, had one small door in front, just big enough to hand out cartridges,  and covered the scuttle hatch that was used to hand up the cartridges from the orlop deck. This hatch was between the aft riding bitt's.  It probably was stored when they were working the anchors and cables. Another up date in the works folk's.
 
Just something to think about  folks,the next time you have to glue something in place. If you can just peg the item to the hull or deck with maybe a bit of glue on the peg, it just might save you from having a headack on your hands. Just to give you a ideal of this, all of Montagu gun deck planks are only held in place with a tiny bit of glue on the pegs. If I had to tear out or remove some planking all one has to do is pry up the plank sand down the peg's and your ready to go. When I first installed the main partner and pump's very little glue was used and things were more or less just pegged in place. Made removing them a whole lot easier and clean up was a snap. Just something to keep in mind folks. 
Gary 



 

Actual pics:

Happy New Year to all of you!
 
Hi Grant, Like I’ll have any issues wanting to get more accessories! OK I’ve been looking at the 
three and four jaw chucks and I realize that I will eventually need both types. The one thing I am
unsure about is if the self centering chucks are better than the regular jaws chucks. From what
I’ve read self centering is nice and handy but the independent jaws allow for more “accuracy”.
What types do you use?
 
Hi Ben, Thanks for stopping by. As I said above I will get a 4 jaw chuck just not sure which type
yet. You know you don’t have to wait. We can take that plunge together!
 
OK onto the fun stuff.
 
Here is the starboard side with all the assorted ring bolts in place. I made them from some 20 gauge
wire I had on hand.
 

 
I also figured I don’t need cannon barrels to make the carriages so I started on them. They are
made from swiss pear. I made two just in case I decided to add a second cannon. I figured it was
easier to make them together instead of having to go back and make a second one.
 
 

 

 

 

 

Hello Gary,
I am very impressed reading your post.
Thank you a lot for your attention to my model and kind words.
 
In the meantime I have continued to work on the hinges.
Here are a few pictures.
 

 

 

In the last photograph every 48 hinges are now visible for the gunports lids.