garyshipwright

Nice job Toni, you done a heck of a job and enjoyed watching you build it. Thanks for sharing. Gary

I added the copper mending plate McKay noted in his keel drawings. ⅘

The stern post and transom deadwood are attached to the keel and the angled rabbit has been cut into the stern.
 
The next step is the copper fish mending plate that is bolted into the sternpost and keel.

I added the false keel pieces and the simulated tar as well, then sanded and polished everything.

It was funny because I had to remake the Gripe ha.

Yeah, so Bounty is a bit different from what I thought, #7 is the lower stem and your apron is further in.  This is from the AOTS book, right?  If you are interested the Royal Museum has original line plans for the Bounty, a deck plan for her, and a plan for one of her launches. They might be of help, maybe not to buy but just for reference.

I'm going to use Van Dyck Crystals to darken the pva wood glue for use in the scarph joints to simulate the tarred felt they would have used in those joints.

The stem is coming along slowly. I've had to re-do every piece to accommodate all the sides that have to fit.
When I get them all to the right shape I will sand them to the same 13 inch width of the keel (or .2078 inches in 1:48 scale).

Since this is the first time I've built one of these from scratch I was not thinking about how close the tolerances were for the sides that meet. As a result I'm on my second attempt for all the pieces of the stem. 
 
First I'm using the band saw to get the piece roughed out.
 
Then I shape them to the line on the drum sander.
 
Then I use a razor saw and chisel on the angled areas, very carefully using the neighboring pieces to be sure I've got the angle right. This is a deliberate process that. If you rush and "hope for the best" you'll be redoing it haha.
 
I rely on the bench vice to stop my razor saw at the correct point and to stop my chisel at the right depth.
 
As an aside, you MUST keep your chisels sharp. Doing it dull causes the chisel to jump and pull chuncks of wood out. I added a picture of my wet stones.

Thank you for all the likes,  Michael, I think the notations are a new feature of the forum software.  

Upper Deck Planking cont.
Despite encouraging words my eye is drawn to the mistake like a tongue to a newly filled tooth!!
So I changed the outer Binding Strake. The inner one now has a gap issue but I find this less noticeable and my conscience feels better.

Planking the Upper Deck
The planks are 1.6mm thick except for the Central or King plank, which is 2.12 mm.
The Binding Strikes are also 2.12mm thick but Let Down to be level with the rest- ignoring this Let Down will allow use of 1.6mm planks as well.
( As previously noted, it seemed to me easier to make and fit the various hatches and Riding Bitt Standard, after fitting the King Plank)
After fitting the Inner Strikes, the Binding Strikes (2 each side) are fitted. Noted is the widening to compensate for the difference in width of the Hatches.
Note also that the Planks taper and curve.
I simply used printed copies of the planking pattern of TFFM, cutting out each section, with some spare, and shaping them using my Proxxon Belt Sander, which I found quicker and more accurate than a plane.
After these planks, I decided to jump ahead and make the outer 4 plank lines which are Top and Butt jointed.
I did this because I thought this aesthetically important feature should be made as accurately as possible, any adjustments will be made to the intermediate plans later.
I started from the outermost Plank line (next to the Hull).
Again, using cut-outs from the pattern, these were made and fitted fairly quickly. (Only had to remake one of them)
By using the patterns and fitting the wood directly, I didn’t have to side bend the planks, and avoided multiple calculations to decide the widths.

I could get a job at IKEA....

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Giampie -Fabulous work as always - Looking forward to your next post and seeing my first ever 1/36 skeleton - let me see... an average femure diameter say 2.4cm at 1/36 about 6.6mm "No Pressure" 🙂  Cheers Pete

Looking good Alan. Now were have I seen this hull before? When it came to Alfred those many years ago I broke up a glass from a picture frame and use the pieces to help me with all the differnt angle's and tight places.  Do be carefull if you do. Can't ever remember cutting my self, not sure were I read this.

Bitao, that is one outstanding build you have going. She is looking great and ship shape. Look forward to your next update. Gary

Bitao, that is one outstanding build you have going. She is looking great and ship shape. Look forward to your next update. Gary

Looking good Alan. Now were have I seen this hull before? When it came to Alfred those many years ago I broke up a glass from a picture frame and use the pieces to help me with all the differnt angle's and tight places.  Do be carefull if you do. Can't ever remember cutting my self, not sure were I read this.

Good afternoon, everyone.
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

Looking good Alan. Now were have I seen this hull before? When it came to Alfred those many years ago I broke up a glass from a picture frame and use the pieces to help me with all the differnt angle's and tight places.  Do be carefull if you do. Can't ever remember cutting my self, not sure were I read this.

RUDDER

 
I have been making the rudder and tiller. Looks like this was my first really big screw-up. As you can see in the photo, I attached the pintles to the stern post and the gudgeons to the rudder. This is bass-ackwards according to normal boat building practice (I knew that!). But it is the way Phil's boat yard made it. Next time I should spend more time on research before becoming engrossed in the building!
 
CORRECTED IN POST # 121!
 

The gudgeons were made with a 0.017 inch thick copper strip from the Mantua kit.  There wasn't enough for the pintles, so I used a strip of 0.015 inch brass. The pintle pins were 12 mm brass nails that came with the kit. I also used some of these to pin the two parts of the rudder together. The "bolts" that attach the pintles and gudgeons were cut from 7 mm brass nails I had in my parts collection. The gudgeon bearings were short pieces of a 1/16 inch diameter brass tube. The pintle pins and gudgeon tubes were soldered into their respective strips.
 

 
The tiller was carved from a 0.095 inch square mahogany strip. I thought the reddish mahogany would make a nice color for the finished tiller. After fitting it into a hole in the rudder head I carefully tapered it to a scale 3 inch handle and trimmed it to an octagonal cross section.
 
Then I boiled it in water for 15 minutes. This producd a surprise - when I fished the wood out of the water it was black! I bent it around a form I made from scrap wood and clamped the ends. After it sat all night the wood resumed some of it's natural color and the piece retained the curved shape. However, the wood is noticeably grayer than it was before boiling. I don't know if steaming would have retained more of the natural color.
 
 


These images show some of the construction detail. I cut the narrow strips around the rudder head from 0.003 inch thick brass sheet. The rudder head and tiller design was taken from the brig Lady Washington that sails the west coast out of Aberdeen, Washington. I have visited this ship several times and had the pleasure of taking a short sailing excursion from Newport, Oregon, fulfilling a dream of sailing on a square rigger!
 
I added three pieces of wood above the gudgeons to my original shape. These fill part of the space between the rudder and stern post. White putty was used to fill in the gaps. The picture shows all of the construction details - after it is painted many of these details will be hidden.
 
 
 
 

 
I cut a hole in the deck planks and inserted a new surround piece for the rudder hole. This is also similar to the way the rudder shaft opening is done on the Lady Washington.  The tiller is a bit long, maybe two scale feet. I will trim it back a bit and reshape the end. The handle will be about three scale feet above the deck.
 
There should be a binnacle somewhere behind the deck house on the center line, but I have found no references about how it would look on the original revenue cutters. In the early 1800s binnacles were typically boxes with the compass in the center and room for lanterns or candles on either side. The kit does include pieces for a box binnacle and instructions for building it. But there isn't much room in this build for it to fit between the deck house and tiller. Chapelle's drawings do not show a binnacle.
 

DECK PLANKING 3
 
Planking the deck is mostly finished. I still need to trim the planks around the deck house and hatches and build up the coaming around these features.
 

 
These photos show the nibbing method. The planks were tapered from half the plank width back to where the outboard edge of the plank intersects the margin board. Then I glued a narrow strip of black construction paper along the inboard edge of the plank. The paper strip continued around the nib and back to the end of the taper. I applied glue to the bulkheads below the plank and a small bead along the full length of the paper "grout" and then pushed the plank into place into the nibbing slot.
 


I am surprised that it came out as good as it did, considering that this is the first time I have "nibbed" a deck. The grout lines are very thin and mostly regular. If you look closely you can see a few places it isn't perfect. I used a one-in-four planking scheme. The very long taper planks at the outboard edge were the most tedious to create.
 
I did not expect to get the nibbing to be symmetrical port to starboard - that seemed like asking for too much luck. However, it came out (almost) perfectly symmetrical! I did discover that when I built the hull 35 years ago the stern came out skewed a bit wider on the port side. The margin board is wider on the port side, but I cut the starboard side nib a bit deeper and made the planking come out symmetrical at the stern anyway.
 
The deck has been coarse sanded to get all the plank tops to come out to a smooth camber. It would have been easier if all the planks had been close to the same thickness. But because the thickness of the planks supplied with the kit varied greatly I ended up with a lot of wood dust before I had a smooth deck. I still need to sand with a fine grit sandpaper to eliminate all of the scratches from the coarse sandpaper, and then polish the deck with #0000 steel wool. But I am satisfied with the results.

Good Evening Mark and thank you. That's not good, search results being very limited. Seems it could cause a big traffic jam and long waiting list.  I spent a few hour's today and yesterday looking through their plans but never found one of the Queen, accept a deck plan. Well the search goes on.  Once again thank you. Gary

Good Evening Mark and thank you. That's not good, search results being very limited. Seems it could cause a big traffic jam and long waiting list.  I spent a few hour's today and yesterday looking through their plans but never found one of the Queen, accept a deck plan. Well the search goes on.  Once again thank you. Gary

Hi Clay. Well good sir my thought process on the framing  was I used butt's to hold the parts of the frame together that is shown on page 18 in Goodwin's book. Being a expert , thank you for that, but call my self more of a student who will never finish school.  When i started building my frames I did use chocks to hold the parts together but being that you make  about  a 130 frames it takes awhile  which is why I used the butt and dowel that hold's those parts together. Not as time consuming and once the planks  are installed on the outside and inside you can't see the chocks but if I had to do it again I would have installed the chocks, but today that is just a bit of hind sight on my part. Installing the chocks does take a while and after three years of framing figure chocks would have added 2 years to their building, for me anyway. Chock's would be more accurate doing our time frame. Now the sister frames  would have been called bends and it seems that He shows this on page 14,16 and 18. What they usually did, as far as I can tell in Alfred's/Warrior time frame,  would be to to build one bend( two frames put together as one) two single filling frames that did not touch each other and then another bend. Some where around the dead flat there was a changing of the floors so at that place you would have a floor, a first futtock and then another floor.  What they did is at the forward part of the hull the floors would be on forward side and aft the would be on the aft side. I added  a photo of Alfred's framing plan and my framing ,  they are about as close as I can get them. If you look at station 1 and the dead flat you will see the switching of the floor. How you can tell is that there is three filling frames between the two bend's and usually you only had two filler's.  Now the bend's didn't touch as the went up but was pushed apart with blocks of wood , so the upper parts of the frame's could make up the side of the gun port. Those parts of the frame were bolted together were the blocks were installed . I colored those blocks black and shows that this was a station and the filling frames did not have those blocks. Hope this makes sense Clay. Gary