Poppa Ace

I agree with you whole-heartedly. I'm a beginner by forum standards .....I want to build the " The USS Constellation "   but realized that there were skills that I didn't possess and needed to lean.  Thus I picked the 18th Century Longboat  Model Shipways.   Because the instructions are in english ......which helps immediately. And the kit would cover planking, rigging, etc.    
 
I found reading this forum and personal experience that I would consider not beginner model  for me because of length of model.  My hands being compare to a gorilla are small.   I broke the false keel and tried to re-engineering ....which started progressive failure and ended bad.  Model Expo are sending me replacements......this is another reason going with Model Shipways is a win-win in my book.
 
I guess to finish this post without being to verbose is that I should have maybe picked a little more larger vessel to give myself some room. 

Kurt I was wondering about the port & starboard stringers.  did you install each .... the entire length ..... or splice them.  Materials in the kit are to short and in the manual I don't see splices either.  Splicing would seem to me to contradict the purpose of the stringers in the first place.  Did I not get the proper stock or is it not supplied with the kit and you used you own stock.  I've checked my shipyard supplies but don't have the right dimension.

Thanks Bruce,  I'll start that tomorrow...... I'm going to like this build a whole lot.   

Hey Bruce,  good work by the way.   I have a question relating to the  Strbrd / port  bulkhead stringers.  I have found that I don't have stock in the kit to make these one piece.  From the photos I don't see any splice ....  so I wanted to inquire if I've been shorted in materials .... splicing these would be counterproductive to the purpose they were intended.  I have looked in my shipyard and don't have the size.  No splice is shown on the ship plans so I think it was a packing area.  

I have added all 13 (P & S) 1/8 inch wide strakes to the Chaperon, which brings me up (or down) to the flat bottom which will be finished with 3/8 inch planks.
Here is the planking to date prior to any sanding. Minimal filler will be needed, mainly at the very front of the bow where the planks meet the stem, for clamping related dings, and one short area of slight separation of adjacent planks. The rest should sand smooth. I'm quite pleased with the planking job thus far.
Will paint white, but I would like the planking to be subtly visible. Likely will add a "mud line" if I can do it well.

First I want to commend on your workmanship and some of your advice .....which I have used extensively, with that of others members to numerous to mention all.  Thank you much for your build logs.    Now about the gaps at corners .......and old cabinetmaker secret is ...... to cut the miters  and  Iota  shy of 45 degrees .  this results in the points of the miters to mesh before the back ...... which removes the gap.      
 
Poppa Ace 

First I want to commend on your workmanship and some of your advice .....which I have used extensively, with that of others members to numerous to mention all.  Thank you much for your build logs.    Now about the gaps at corners .......and old cabinetmaker secret is ...... to cut the miters  and  Iota  shy of 45 degrees .  this results in the points of the miters to mesh before the back ...... which removes the gap.      
 
Poppa Ace 

First I want to commend on your workmanship and some of your advice .....which I have used extensively, with that of others members to numerous to mention all.  Thank you much for your build logs.    Now about the gaps at corners .......and old cabinetmaker secret is ...... to cut the miters  and  Iota  shy of 45 degrees .  this results in the points of the miters to mesh before the back ...... which removes the gap.      
 
Poppa Ace 

First I want to commend on your workmanship and some of your advice .....which I have used extensively, with that of others members to numerous to mention all.  Thank you much for your build logs.    Now about the gaps at corners .......and old cabinetmaker secret is ...... to cut the miters  and  Iota  shy of 45 degrees .  this results in the points of the miters to mesh before the back ...... which removes the gap.      
 
Poppa Ace 

First I want to commend on your workmanship and some of your advice .....which I have used extensively, with that of others members to numerous to mention all.  Thank you much for your build logs.    Now about the gaps at corners .......and old cabinetmaker secret is ...... to cut the miters  and  Iota  shy of 45 degrees .  this results in the points of the miters to mesh before the back ...... which removes the gap.      
 
Poppa Ace 

S.Coleman,
Tanks for the heads again .....  I appreciate this site far beyond what words can describe.  I've not started a build log :  being just a tadpole ....have just been keeping focused and taking pictures to share later with commentary.  One thing I will say for all the modelers on this site .....without you build logs .....I probably would have crashed and burned out.  But now I'm   hooked .....actually I've swallowed the hook.  Many thanks to you and all.
 
Donald W. Harris   

No worries. The tabs that these two rooms slot into the deck are out as I was told by another member a few years ago.  Thus avoiding me making this mistake as well. So there you go, Information passed on from one modeler to another over the years.

S. Coleman,  said: " 
Hey there. Nice start. I have also built this model awhile ago and had a ball with it. I hope you enjoy it too. I'm seriously contemplating building it again.
All the best and P.S Watch out for the location tabs on the boiler and engine room not lining up.
  Appreciate your comments and thanks for the  heads - up on boiler and engine room lineup ...... I probably wouldn't have notice until  oops to late ....where's my debonder. I have the Older Model of AL's  " The King "  I got in the auction ...... all intact still in package......    I don't know if it's ok to send pics ......once I figure out ....how.   i   Hey Eddie thanks again ......just what the Dr. ordered.   One more thing I've been looking at the white railings ....I'm thinking about going with blackening the photoetch to resemble Wrought Iron.  I think the white is gaudy.  I'd like opinions ......from Ya'll ......That's Texan  eubonics. LOL   Donald W. Harris         " Only The Lead Dog Sees a Different View "    circa 2001  Poppa Ace

S. Coleman,  said: " 
Hey there. Nice start. I have also built this model awhile ago and had a ball with it. I hope you enjoy it too. I'm seriously contemplating building it again.
All the best and P.S Watch out for the location tabs on the boiler and engine room not lining up.
  Appreciate your comments and thanks for the  heads - up on boiler and engine room lineup ...... I probably wouldn't have notice until  oops to late ....where's my debonder. I have the Older Model of AL's  " The King "  I got in the auction ...... all intact still in package......    I don't know if it's ok to send pics ......once I figure out ....how.   i   Hey Eddie thanks again ......just what the Dr. ordered.   One more thing I've been looking at the white railings ....I'm thinking about going with blackening the photoetch to resemble Wrought Iron.  I think the white is gaudy.  I'd like opinions ......from Ya'll ......That's Texan  eubonics. LOL   Donald W. Harris         " Only The Lead Dog Sees a Different View "    circa 2001  Poppa Ace

Eddie , and all others that might read this.        I being new at this ...I'm presently building the  The King   have finished planking the hull  I'm impressed with the precision of the assembly  kind of relaxing after building the AL's   Swift Pilot Boat 1805   manufactured in 1982  .....  anyway I've assembled the hull and deck  and forgot to cut out slots for mounted boiler room and engine room....in my eager haste.  If you or anyone has the lower deck layout to trace .....and send in pdf   so I can print to right scale and use to locate slots.   Any help is appreciated .    Thank you.
 
Poppa Ace             " Only the Lead Dog Sees a Different View "    circa  2001  Poppa Ace 

Eddie , and all others that might read this.        I being new at this ...I'm presently building the  The King   have finished planking the hull  I'm impressed with the precision of the assembly  kind of relaxing after building the AL's   Swift Pilot Boat 1805   manufactured in 1982  .....  anyway I've assembled the hull and deck  and forgot to cut out slots for mounted boiler room and engine room....in my eager haste.  If you or anyone has the lower deck layout to trace .....and send in pdf   so I can print to right scale and use to locate slots.   Any help is appreciated .    Thank you.
 
Poppa Ace             " Only the Lead Dog Sees a Different View "    circa  2001  Poppa Ace 

I agree with you whole-heartedly. I'm a beginner by forum standards .....I want to build the " The USS Constellation "   but realized that there were skills that I didn't possess and needed to lean.  Thus I picked the 18th Century Longboat  Model Shipways.   Because the instructions are in english ......which helps immediately. And the kit would cover planking, rigging, etc.    
 
I found reading this forum and personal experience that I would consider not beginner model  for me because of length of model.  My hands being compare to a gorilla are small.   I broke the false keel and tried to re-engineering ....which started progressive failure and ended bad.  Model Expo are sending me replacements......this is another reason going with Model Shipways is a win-win in my book.
 
I guess to finish this post without being to verbose is that I should have maybe picked a little more larger vessel to give myself some room. 

I agree with you whole-heartedly. I'm a beginner by forum standards .....I want to build the " The USS Constellation "   but realized that there were skills that I didn't possess and needed to lean.  Thus I picked the 18th Century Longboat  Model Shipways.   Because the instructions are in english ......which helps immediately. And the kit would cover planking, rigging, etc.    
 
I found reading this forum and personal experience that I would consider not beginner model  for me because of length of model.  My hands being compare to a gorilla are small.   I broke the false keel and tried to re-engineering ....which started progressive failure and ended bad.  Model Expo are sending me replacements......this is another reason going with Model Shipways is a win-win in my book.
 
I guess to finish this post without being to verbose is that I should have maybe picked a little more larger vessel to give myself some room. 

I agree with you whole-heartedly. I'm a beginner by forum standards .....I want to build the " The USS Constellation "   but realized that there were skills that I didn't possess and needed to lean.  Thus I picked the 18th Century Longboat  Model Shipways.   Because the instructions are in english ......which helps immediately. And the kit would cover planking, rigging, etc.    
 
I found reading this forum and personal experience that I would consider not beginner model  for me because of length of model.  My hands being compare to a gorilla are small.   I broke the false keel and tried to re-engineering ....which started progressive failure and ended bad.  Model Expo are sending me replacements......this is another reason going with Model Shipways is a win-win in my book.
 
I guess to finish this post without being to verbose is that I should have maybe picked a little more larger vessel to give myself some room. 

I agree with you whole-heartedly. I'm a beginner by forum standards .....I want to build the " The USS Constellation "   but realized that there were skills that I didn't possess and needed to lean.  Thus I picked the 18th Century Longboat  Model Shipways.   Because the instructions are in english ......which helps immediately. And the kit would cover planking, rigging, etc.    
 
I found reading this forum and personal experience that I would consider not beginner model  for me because of length of model.  My hands being compare to a gorilla are small.   I broke the false keel and tried to re-engineering ....which started progressive failure and ended bad.  Model Expo are sending me replacements......this is another reason going with Model Shipways is a win-win in my book.
 
I guess to finish this post without being to verbose is that I should have maybe picked a little more larger vessel to give myself some room. 

Certainly there are many factors (time, ability, etc) that contribute to whether one will 'stick with' this hobby, and many of those can't be quantified until you get going.  But I do agree that the choice of kit can sometimes be a 'make or break' decision.
 
I really, really want to build the Syren.  But I think it is just a little beyond my reach at the moment, so I'm picking something else for my next build.
 
I'm still new to this - I picked up ship building about 9 months ago.  For my first build, I chose the Phantom - solid hull.  This meant no hull or deck planking, no square rigging, and no gunports or guns to build.  I chose it so that I could focus on basic skills - reading plans, cutting/sanding/shaping, and rigging.  I made a lot of mistakes.  For my second build, I'm building the Bluenose.  This adds basic POB stuff (keel, bulkheads, etc), hull and deck planking, more detail.  But I chose this particular ship because the hull is painted - my first attempt at hull planking is likely to turn out a little 'less than great', so I can learn hull planking but still use wood filler and paint to end up with a good build.
 
I was tempted to jump right into the Syren next (even had it in my shopping cart on the Model Expo site at one point), but I decided to do another build before I take that plunge, to get some experience with square rigging and gunports.
 
If you're getting into the hobby for the long haul, it doesn't hurt to spend some time working your way up.  You learn valuable skills that will pay off when you finally get to that 'big build'.  You also get a great sense of accomplishment from having successfully completed something (and that is much easier to reach with a 'beginner build').
 
All that being said, you have to be interested in the ship you are building.  It has to catch your eye.  If honestly nothing catches your eye except the Constitution, you might as well try.  Better to try something and have it fizzle out than to not try at all.  But if a first time builder is willing to start small, I do think it will pay off in the end.

I used this photo from somebody's build log (sorry, forgot which one):

 
When doing that scarf, the trick to avoid misalignment is to use a constant and predefined cut depth, because it will affect not only the "cutoff" parts, but the edges of the planks.
And keep in mind that it's a fully mirrored joint, so both sides could be cut clamped together.
 
Here is the sketch, notice that all red lines are equal (representing the cut depts).

 
 
But maybe there is some easy trick to cut that scarf quick, clean and precise. I did just a few scarfs, and hope that some experienced builder can share a trick to make such scarfs fast and easy