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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    I suspected you would need to experiment with the fit...looks like you might be able to crimp the deadeye strap with a plier to further tighten the stap.....fine work. Rob
  2. rwiederrich
    Great Scott! Ed... fine work for sure. I made a chain plate model a long time ago..and pretty much mimiced your own technique and procedure. How did you tackle the issue of the deadeyes lazily rolling around within their respected wire strap..once they were soldered to the chain? Personally..I didn't solder them myself..becaue I found that the loose dedeye rolled while I was rigging the lanyards..causing miss alignments...I had to glue them fixed. Great job
  3. rwiederrich
    Dang...I just buy the size of deadeyes I need now....after I labored and made them for my scratch built Cutty Sark 40 years ago, much like Ed is here. Way too labor intensive for me. But I can surely appreciate the hard work and attention to detail that Ed is putting into this build. However...from another point of view...making the entirety of the model from stock material is in of itself a real accomplishment. Rob
  4. rwiederrich
    Fantastic attention to detail....... Rob
  5. rwiederrich
    Well the time you spend on the project is paying off in dividends...... Great job. Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    Looking great.......
  7. rwiederrich
    OH..and of course my mancave........the Library, where all the magic happens. Rob(Kinda like an eye spy room)Lots to see.
  8. rwiederrich
    Here are some of my Morgan......
  9. rwiederrich
    I just purchased a completed version of this model at a second hand store for 100 bucks. It needed some desperate repair to rigging and broken top gallent yards...plus several boat davits were broken and missing...not to mention some oddly placed rigging...that needs repairing. Not with standing, the model was part of a larger collection that sold separately for nearly $600 a model. This one was damaged enough...I got it for a song. The builder who is now deceased actually did a fairly good job...not requiring too many changes, and the errors are not that noticeable. He coppered the entire hull...very nicely too. I'll post images when I get home. Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    Mike...yes it does. I use alcohol stains...it evaporates quickly and leaves a simple opaque stain...if I want more depth I use india ink added to the alcohol....great effects....and fast. Paper nearly turns into a fine old looking cloth once wrinkled enough....mimicking old tired sails....quite natural looking...plus the scale pleats and wrinkles accepts alcohol staining well adding additional depth and dimension. Rob
  11. rwiederrich
    Here is another example of drying sails. Rob
  12. rwiederrich
    Actually I don't have any images of a furled sail(Just wasn't thinking about images then)...but I do have some of a drying sail on a scratch built Ferreira)AKA Cutty Sark.
  13. rwiederrich
    Not sure if cloth enthusiasts would like this but I use paper sails. First by crumpling the death out of a sheet of simple copy paper...then I crumple it again...I (If I wish), then draw in with pencil the seam lines and paint in any discolorations I want. I then cut a shorted sail(Similar to what has already been demonstrated). Then I edge with thread and furl on yard. I add additional staining if desired at this time. The paper looks amazingly in scale, crinkled and stained liker a real sail. Not an overly white toy sail.
  14. rwiederrich
    Interesting...I personally use gun blue..found in stores such as Cabalas or Pro Bass type shops. The product is a cold blue system....I simply dip my items in the blueing agent for several seconds....some times suspended with hemostats. Great looking blackening. One issue...is you can leave it in too long and literally dissolve the metal part. Ooops! Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    I'm very impressed...what a fantastic build...I love the metal work..for sure. Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    Yes he did..and it sold at auction recently........ Thanks for posting and the comment... Rob
  17. rwiederrich
    I have secured my ratlines to the shrouds with this technique for years and an extremely sharp surgical knife cuts off the ends nice and clean. A dab of flat black on the ends finishes off the job. Working on the same side of the vessel, with pre cut lengths of ratline you can rig these quite quickly actually. Good job. Rob
  18. rwiederrich
    Fantastic progress Nils....... Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    I agree with some posts here. The shrouds are in of themselves(along with the backstays) a modeling project all by themselves. You can approach their installation in the same manner as you did with painting the fine scroll work or cannon work on your vessel. It's simply lacing lines to form semi-rigged structures. Work the lowers first or one mast at a time....what ever you do, establish a *Method* that works for you. Personally I rig the shrouds for a single mast first...then the next mast and so on. Then I tackle the ratlines...one mast at a time...in short..I compartmentalize my efforts..so the entirety of the shroud install process doesn't become to overwhelming. Good luck in the next faze of your build. Rob
  20. rwiederrich
    Thanks Dave...Capturing the *Mood* of the water in all its intricacies...with foam and sleets and to capture depth is a real trick. I started with a clean white pallet of dental plaster and created the deep blue/green troughs first then added lighter green to the caps....it took a while, I then added gloss white for the white caps and trickled some foaming details and there you go. Thanks for the fine comments. Rob
  21. rwiederrich
    Great job Ed. I made a steam cabinet to bend all my timbers. Kinda like a double boiler..with the timbers laying on a rack. 15 minutes and you could nearly tie them in a knot. Good luck
  22. rwiederrich
    This is why Elton John hired 50 proof readers for the *Yellow Brick Road* album....and they still left errors. It's tough keeping all the details in order..with such a complex system. Still it is a great book..... Rob
  23. rwiederrich
    Thanks for all the likes everyone and thanks Frank for the fine comments. Sometimes I'm questioned as to those techniques..since they deviate from typical scratch building. Some suppose that that means from all wood construction. I prefer to save time by re-engineering what others have toiled over..to gain my desired effect. In the ultimate end..it is the builder who is to be rewarded..and since a true scaled model is never truly accurate(Meaning: we don't actually build with oak, or use tree architecture for fashioning knees, or cast real iron for all the structural particulars, I don't know anyone who has access to muntz metal either...) I guess I'm lazy...just wanting an end result...for me. Again..thanks Rob
  24. rwiederrich
    Thanks Doug..after becoming a grandpa, again...I had taken a break on the Glory...but I hope to return to her to finish up her ratlines and begin the tedious work of rigging her yards and ironworks for them. Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    fine work Ed. Very Fine. Being in the dental Field..the lost wax cast method of reproducing quantity is a great direction if you have the oven and the casting machine. Many Dental supply houses have older/used equipment that can be had relatively inexpensively. But like you said...it's kinda tough asking folk to do that. I usually make/fashion a master and then duplicate it in silicone and then pour/cast plastic/acrylic replicates myself. I gave up on fashioning metal parts for my vessels a while ago(Unless it's a special part)......High impact acrylic is easier to work and finish and once painted is just as convincing. IMV I applaud your skill and application of it. Rob

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