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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    Go over to my Build log in scratch build models..under Great Republic and see the tools and process. Rob
  2. rwiederrich
    Lastly..you have a perfectly processed copper tape with the individual seam lines represented....just lay the tape down on the hull and there you go. If you really want the nail impressions...you can add them later. However I am not going that far, since the tape will incure some defects and at this scale will become too over exaggerated and become a distraction. This process, that would normally take weeks to months(Cuz I work in spurts) will now take days if not hours. And cost me about $1.95 a roll of copper tape....Yippy. Fast and inexpensive..who doesn't like that? Rob
  3. rwiederrich
    Place it in the roller and then begin to roll the tape in. It is quite easy and very effective. Here it is coming out pressed with the seam..replicating the individual plates
  4. rwiederrich
    Next..take your tape of copper and lay it under the wire mesh with the lead edge over the wire..This helps align the tape with the mesh and the rollers of the roller. You want to have your copper tape under the horizontal wires..so they can press against the copper tape forming the necessary seam. By the images you can see how this works.
  5. rwiederrich
    Here is a close up of the wire tool in the press. I cut out a section of wire mesh just the size to work the copper tape. This fencing wire can be bought at any well supplied hardware store.
  6. rwiederrich
    Today I also finalized my design and subsequent manufacture of all my copper plates. I ain't buying $350 forth of prefabed plates that require weeks if not months to install. So I invented a means to press copper tape into individual plates. First you need an old fashioned clothes roller. Like this. With some meshed wire for the pressing tool.
  7. rwiederrich
    Nils....The pine is cut as a veneer..NOT plywood. That is why it bends and forms so well. I finished up planking the starboard side..letting it dry. I plan on using a bit of ill on several places...just to verify the smooth curves. I'll be adding the plank sheer and rail in my other shop and final woodworking before any paint is applied. The 3 howes holes will be added and trimmed as well. Most likely, I'll add the deck so I can build up the subrail/waterway which will directly tie into the outerhull. NOTE: the picture of the drawing of the rail timbers posted earlier.
  8. rwiederrich
    Jeff...yep I checked that out already....and it cost money to read...or to be a member... so you can read. I've read Forbes book on the subject but he wasn't clear from what I could gather from the copy I read. I want to see a drawing of his design...if anyone happens to have one....just lying around.... Rob
  9. rwiederrich
    I'm sure this will be of no help to you...not unless you have the tools. And the gumption. Personally...I'm exhausted by laying 1600+ individual copper plates.....so I've devised a way to save myself a ton of time and aches. First you'll need an old fashion clothes ringer......a piece of fine mesh wire or screen that represents the approximate distance/length of each plate...and your copper tape. Set the clothes ringer to a snug contact...then run in your wire mesh/screen...after your mesh is in and the ringer has a good hold of it...then run in your tape in between the opposite direction mesh wire of the creen..... then roll the clothes ringer. Being careful to make sue the tape tracks between the wire mesh. You're basically feeding it. It will impress a regular crease on the copper tape....in essence, giving you an entire lengths strip of pressed copper tape ready to be placed on the hull. I have experimented with this idea and it works. Mind you..it is technique sensitive and will require some practice to get it right. I'm waiting myself for more tape to arrive so I can proceed with this for my own current build. I hope this lunacy is helpful. I thought this idea up cuz 1600 individual acid etched copper plates cost nearly $352 plus shipping. An that ain't happening. Good luck and fair seas. Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    Research HELP: I've been back and forth many times and until my copy of Crothers fine book *The Masting of American Merchant Sail in the 1850's an Illustrated Study* arrives...does anybody have any technical drawings of the differences between the Forbes Double topsail design and the Howes design? I've read Forbes depictions and those of Howes..but no actual drawings of the Forbes design. One depiction states that the bottom topsail yard is fixed to the main mast top cap(Similar to the Howes design), but that the doubling space is greatly extended to compensate for the depth of the sail. So are both topsails fixed in the Forbes design? I'm not getting anywhere fast. Also Forbes claims he reversed the topmast to be inbound of the main on several of his first design builds(1846ish)....but there after he arranged the doublings in a typical fashion with the topmast forward. Which would correspond with the etchings of the GR in her original rig. Help! Rob
  11. rwiederrich
    Today..I spent an hour (before work) laying more starboard planking...I finished the bow and cutwater and working my way amidships, I had to make a repair where the plank fractured. Apparently the wood at that point had a defect and could not stand the strain of bending along the extreme curves. No problem...I simply cut out the defect and patched in a new piece. I have to do some more work on the section were the spar deck and hull meet aft of the midsection...not to mention the finality of the elliptical stern. So I'm getting there...I plan on doing a bit more planking after work...Oh at about 1:00 in the morning when I get off work. No pics for this last session....no time to edit them and post them. Pics will return tomorrow. Rob
  12. rwiederrich
    Thanks for your responce Roger. No I didn't have to steam the planks.....the wood is very pliable and it bends very nicely...that is why I use 1/16" to 1/32" material. I do have to cut radiouses to make the curves easier..but that is it. Now I had to wet the aft sections to make the curve around the stern..that is all. I kept this wood for this very purpose from my doll house manufacturing days...the wood was actually too thin and was throw away. Rob
  13. rwiederrich
    Some last images before I have to wait till tomorrow. The hull is really shaping up..though I do admit my approach is all but typical and can be viewed as sloppy...crude even lunacy.... However, I'm only after the finished look...not how I got there. Once the hull is finished at this stage I will take it to the other shop and begin the fine detail on the hull. Rob
  14. rwiederrich
    The staining of the wood gives it a weird look...but the hull is pretty finely sanded...some fill will be applied as well.
  15. rwiederrich
    I'll be painting and coppering. Here is some images of the starboard side being planked.
  16. rwiederrich
    One on her side showing the smooth hull transitions. I should be done with this side by tomorrow and then onto the other. I'm *Clipping* along with 12 hours invested in this build currently. I hope I can keep up the pace. I tend to work in spurts..due to my work schedule. 2~3 hours on the hull planking this side...so I hope it pans out for the other side as well. Rob
  17. rwiederrich
    This image shows the contours of the aft exit. Pinning down the wood.
  18. rwiederrich
    Well the Great Republic was a wood hulled vessel popeye.....I've yet to determine if I want to add a second layer of planking. This planking is 1/16"..amply strong for the build. Plus it will make the seams at the cutwater and exits appear bulky. On the other hand some builders apply a second layer of planks over a sublayer to create the final finished look...if they are using colored woods for detail and or paint simulation. My GR will be painted black. However..the main deck will be replanked to provide the individual planking for the spar deck. I did some pore planking. Note: the darker discolored areas are staining on the wood...I've had them for some time and they traveled from here to Europe and back. The hull is contouring very well. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    Back in the 80's I worked in a doll house factory in Oregon..so I have lots of great cut scale wood ..and boxes of oak and mahogany veneer. Plus I mill my own maple. I'm almost done with one side..pics tomorrow. Rob
  20. rwiederrich
    Today I'm spending time planking the hull. I',m using be milled clear white pine..that is nearly a veneer...at 1/16" . I can contour it very easily around the bulkheads to form nicely the hull. Here are a few images.
  21. rwiederrich
    Yeah.....it looks that way..heehee All of that over hang will be removed. Rob
  22. rwiederrich
    Well....I've cut the pre or false deck and glued the sections on. It may appear out of sorts but when dry I will trim the edges and ends and sand the curved deck smooth. I over extend the decking so I can trim it back nice and flush...controlling the contours This sub-deck is needed to give the deck a solid base to be built upon...similarly to the sub planking laid down before the final layer of finished planking is laid. I think I'm done for the day..I spent over 10 hours in the shop today...plus the deck needs to dry..... Thanks for looking in. Rob
  23. rwiederrich
    Indeed. Her sharp extreme clipper lines are very clear. One thing that is very nice about this ship(from a builders perspective) is there are no bulwarks. Crothers provides a nice depiction. Rob
  24. rwiederrich
    Well I finished all the frame work and the hard pine aft...now I'll let everything dry and then I'll begin sanding/chamfering the bulkheads..preparing them for planking. Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    Done cutting all the rest of the major bulkheads...now I will glue them into place and then cut and install the bulkhead spacers that will give strength to the framing. No pics right now my battery is dead and is being charged........ Rob

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