MORE HANDBOOKS ARE ON THEIR WAY! We will let you know when they get here.
×
rwiederrich
-
Posts
5,502 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by rwiederrich
-
Thanks Rich. I was going to make these also from composite plastic...but after seeing so many dive in and do some soldering themselves....I wanted to do the same.....however, I designed mine to only need one solder joint and that included soldering the eye bolt at the same time as closing up the vertical sides. Some other examples I have seen look a bit larger...possibly as large as 1/4". but I had to fight the scale monster and even at the smallest I could make...1/8". It still means the blocks are a foot in scale size. I've seen real gin blocks and they are quite large....at around 10~12". I'll be using 3 per topsail yard for the fore and main masts, 2 for the mizzen topsail yard ...and....one for the topgallant and royal downhaul purchases. 14 in total. Rob
-
Yeah...what's up with that? A couple other paintings show black boats as well However....I think I'm gonna go with white. It was typical of the period and as mentioned...was far easier to see on the open ocean then black...for sure. UNLESS...it can be proven that McKay had these vessels pain these boat black....or dark green. I've got time to make this decision anyway. It's still information gathering. Rob
-
When I built my 1/96 Cutty Sark. I did indeed add the ships name on the bow of her life boats. Every painting of Staghound depicts her boats as black. Not sure why that is. I think that detail might be just a little too small to replicate. Thanks for the fine compliments. Rob
-
The extra detail is nice. Good suggestion. Rob
-
I finished up 15 gin blocks. One getting painted……the original and these boys and girls. Man what tiny metal work. Rob
-
Per Rich’s suggestion, I added name boards to the wheel box. Just for fun. They’re about 3.5 8ths long. Rob
-
Made six more.
-
There is always compromise when building in scale. Something’s just don’t scale very well….so…..you need to make adjustments. When all’s said and done, being in scale outweighs any mods you need to make to keep it so. And in my scale of 1/96, I have lots of room to fudge. 😆 Rob
-
And the final product. If I had made the sheeves any larger, the chain would never fit. Or I’d have to make the block waaaay to big and out of scale.
-
Now I’m ready to cut the metal sheeve and install it
-
Using micro bits, I do a little clean up.
-
Then comes the separation from the stock tubing. Again using my dental hand tool and separating disk.
-
Next ……. simply solder it in place
-
Next I make the eyelet by twisting brass wire. Then I insert it between the two upper frame wings.
-
Next I use my dental tool and separator disk and cut off two end corners. This will create the desired shape of the block.
-
Then I deform it by using a small hammer.
-
We’ll here is my tutorial on how I make my 1/8” gin blocks. First I begin with 1/8” copper tube.
-
Thanks Rick. Tomorrow I’ll show exactly how I make one. It’s quite easy actually. The real trick is knowing how to force the perspective of its function. You see, for a chain to properly fit in and around the sheeve, the body frame of the block must be large enough. However, if the sheeve is too large the chain binds between the sheeve and the frame of the block To prevent this from happening and to keep the block frame within the desired scale of 1/8”, you have to undersize the sheeve. The chain I use is the smallest available at 42LPI and it still needs room to move within the block. A true scale gin block is probably less then 3/32”. in this scale of 1/96. No one can make them that small and not go mad. Bluejacket doesn’t even use iron stropped gin blocks on their Red Jacket clipper model. Just large single blocks without a truck strong back tied to yard bands. So I have a ways to go. I’d like to see your gin blocks. Rob
-
I definitely have to work over my towel in my desk drawer to keep from losing them, when they eventually slip from my fingers. Thanks for looking in. Rob
-
Finished up 5 more gin blocks. That makes six. Still need 10 or so more. Painted them and still need to clean them up and finish them off. It only takes about 35 minutes a piece. A little hammering, 3 cuts, one soldering of the eyelet, micro internal grinding, place the sheeve and TaDa…… Rob
-
Goodness John, I'm just now getting a good look at your restoration log. Very fine work and refurbishment indeed. What a task for sure. As usual,......research, research, research. Very impressive endeavor.. Rob
-
About 15 or so. 🤪. Thanks Rob
-
I began soldering the next one. Final grinding is next. Rob
-
I blackened the gin block. That is 42LPI chain. Rob
Our Emblem ®
