rwiederrich
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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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Looking great George....but I see a slight issue with your forestay. Donald McKay used the same rigger for many of his clippers(he even did the designs himself). The issue is the placement of the forestay on the fore mast. With its insertion point being below the tops...it will drastically interfere with the for main lards motion around its truss. McKay....and others....would bring that forestay up on top of the tops....reason being, is the distance from the stays deck mounting on the forecastle to the foremast top is considerably shorter then the main mast stay...from its origin on the foremast fife rail and up to its insertion just below the main mast tops. This shorter distance causes the stay to be too low and the yard will either rub against it, or its chain sling can come in contact with it....creating a big problem. Most modelers follow the kits rigging plan....however, design and physics, just doesn't permit it. Other then this issue...your efforts are wonderful. Rob
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Yeah...you worked up from driver to loader then, if you were good, to gunner. I was a gunner on a command tank and half the time I was the commander, cuz the officer was off tank. Served in Wildflecken.
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That is not hung as the example you made or the one in the B/W images. Seams simply hung from a line that cane raised or lowered. Interesting. Rob
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Indeed, I saw that metal eye……..and probably it was for a down haul…….but I was making my reference from the block…….by looking at your modeled representation, it appears there are several lines coming from the block or some other origin. Not just the two guide ropes. Your pint in a valid one……..a foul at the halyard, would require intervention with some form of a downhaul. Rob
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Keith.....Upon reading my response....I didn't mean to say, *Cept for*..to imply any error on your part....but that if you used a single line from deck level up to the single block, supporting the lamp and back down through the block to the lamp saddle/chair. You could eliminate that second downhaul line. The halyard line could be placed just aft of the lamp elevation axis....keeping it far away from the hot lamp chimney. That is what I meant. Rob
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It appears to be a simple mechanism. Two guide ropes and a single halyard. From the images of the actual lamp...there are no downhauls....just a halyard to raise the lamp. The weight of the lamp will easily bring it back down the guide ropes. And since the halyard is inserted back behind the lamp chimney to the metal *saddle*or chair.....the halyard rope will not be in danger of heating. Your model is well executed....cept for the downhaul(which could be problematic if damaged by the chimney heat. My 5 cents. Great detail to your model...by the way. Rob
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Newly discovered info is exciting for sure......remembering that many Naval customs did not find their way into civilian practice....or vise-versa. I just wanted you to feel comfortable with the slight diversion....though it did pertain to your subject....originally. Like many sub-subjects.....group think, can sometimes run amok from the original posters log direction. Sall-good, it appears, since old nautical oil lamps are, sometimes the only artifact we can acquire for our personal collections that fit in our limited display space. Rob
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Indeed I see it and am surprised at myself that I hadn't realized this from the beginning, by not looking closer. Aging a lamp can be aided by realizing this particular fact...that thin plates of curved *interior* glass would have been the preferred method and not, as in later designs that used more expensive colored Fresnel lenses. Even more modern lamps used clear Fresnel lenses and colored electric bulbs. Thanks for the clarification. And I'm sorry we have pushed the envelope on the subject in Keith's log. Rob
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One interesting note. I have several lights as well and the starboard Fresnel lens is red and the port lens is blue. 🤔 That is because the oil and wick used burned bright yellow...thus against the blue lens it shown green. The starboard still shown red. Bob...in your one image with the light open, is appears the lens is red....but no other image shows a lamp with a red lens. Rob
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Yep…… looking closely you can see the technique here….. in each belay pin. pretty nifty. The only issue I see is that the pin could be pushed off axis slightly. But once the rope coil is applied it is all good. Rob
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Just something I noticed..... You apparently ran the lines down through the belay pin hole...then pressed in your belay pin to hold the line in place. After secured...you then added your rope coils. Interesting method....I never thought of doing that....I just belayed using the protypical way myself. Your final look is very nicely done and clean....with appropriate addressed rope coils to boot. Good job for sure. Rob
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Sorry to hear. But it is your build and you are the Master of its direction. I can understand the trepidation you may be feeling...as you are learning and developing your skills......all on the same model. This can be positively looked at as a Test bed model....one where you learn technique.....hone your skills and develop new and better ways to create a model you are satisfied with. Don't look at it as a failure....because you have not failed....you have learned. And surely do not worry about any of us....we are merely observers as you travel this road on your modeling adventure. I'm looking forward to your next log. Rob
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Just joining now. you've make exceptional expeditious progress....from research to her current state. Wonderful job indeed. Rob
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Many good points are brought up...and some good ideas too. Natural fibers are easiest to work with and as mentioned have less of a stringent memory. Gluing gives ample time to make any corrections, and or adjustments to the final look of the coil, while in place. Best part about the entire process...of adding rope coils...is the plethora of methods that can be employed. Pick the best method for your skill set/what you are comfortable with and gitt-er done. Good luck, in whatever method and or approach you choose. I've used my method for about 50 years...after much experimentation. I find it to be the fastest and easiest...not to mention cleanest when finished. Rob
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Yeah ……I’d get a more pliable thread for your rope coils. A Technique I use sometimes is to lay down a pool of wood glue……. Smear it out, then take your line and coil it up in the glue…..forming a nice little coil of rope. Then using a pic….you lift up the glue soaked coil (dabbing off the excess) and lay it over the pin on the rail. Once done, use the pic to pull it down into shape. Let it dry…..it dries clean. There you go Rob
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Keith....how flexible is your running rigging line? You can make a jig to make your rope coils....tie them off in the middle and then simply place them over the pin on the rail. If the line you are using is too stiff....then perhaps you can find a more subtle cotton line, in the same size and shade to make your coils from.. Here is a pic of my Great Republic forecastle and some belayed rope coils. I used a cotton rope to get the coils soft and supple.
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Rob...your masting is coming along very nicely. Your work is clean and precise. Not to mention the time and attention you are spending on your cloth sails. Probably some of the best cloth sails I have seen. Rob
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Glad ……are you going the full meal deal, with furled sails? Rob
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Oh good.....I like surprises. I suspected you were on a block making fest or a line seizing fest. Can't wait for an update. I too have been away from the bench, due to summer maintenance work schedules. I'll probably be trolling more often then not...these spring/summer months. Good to hear from you. Rob
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Good day Vlad…. How are you doing? Haven’t seen much advancing or any updates. I pray all is well. I suspect you are working on the yard braces by now…….if you’re keeping on your rapid pace. watching…… Rob
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Hey……Bruma……you may have mentioned this earlier, but where do you get your chain, and is it 42 lpi…....? Rob
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I would love nothing more then to dedicate this model to what ever museum would wish to display her proudly along with artifacts contributed by Mike and possibly copies of his books for display value. A complete display can be arranged with NRJ publications as well. I think it could be a fascinating historical display. A one of a kind display any museum would value in their collection. It’s locating a cooperative established museum interested enough to see the models shipment to and display at their museum that just might be a problem. Rob
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