rwiederrich

This is one reason why I rig from the top down and I rig the yards on the mast OFF hull. Once I install the mast...I can easily trace out the lines and were they go. Sure it's a lot of them, but when you work down you can secure those lines first down through the mast rigging and when you arrive at the main course yard...you have just its lifts and bunt, sheet lines to belay at the fife and rail.

Twisting of the block tackle is a real pain...that can be illiminated if you thread each block with the line straight. Cotton lines works best for staying off twisting. Especially when you're dealing with hundreds of lines.

Jerad. There is one thing I can see that will give you more grief if not addressed first. You need to pay special attention to the installation of all your running rigging blocks....especially the ones at the foot of the mast. They should have been installed before you fixed the fife rail in place. They are way easier to get to once in place then if you have to add them after the fact. Running Rigging, unlike standing rigging requires a lot of preplanning. Your main course blocks should all be placed before hand. Before you get too far along..... Review your rigging charts and see your block layout. Place all the blocks needed for the rigging for the foremast on the mast and tops before you begin the rigging of lines. You still need to place the bunt line blocks under the tops. This would have been far easier with the masts still off the model. No real problem.....keep this as a learning experience. Rigging takes a lot of pre-thought.....so take your time. And undersized line is easier to use then over sized line. Plus is scales better. Keep up the good work. I posted an image of Glory of the Seas. Note: the larger lift lines and all the smaller bunt, leach and braces. Also notice the number of lines coming down the main mast to the fife rail. These lines have to be about an 1" diameter at scale to work with so many other lines. Now, mind you, I fully rigged Glory. Every line short the stunsail lifts and sheets.....cuz I didn't place stunsails or booms on Glory....she spent most of her time on the West coast, not in tropical seas where the light winds blow. Rob

I typically use a fly fishing line for the standing rigging. It mimics hemp cable real well. I also use several sizes of cotton embroidery thread. Pretty much anything I can find in the right size and shade. I like to alternate shades to represent aged and younger lines. I don't use nylon for running rigging ....it has a memory and is tough to get to hang naturally. I do use small black nylon for the deadeye lanyards. It is more resilient to fraying. Rob

I used line that represented about 3/4"~1" in diameter at scale. The smaller the better. Running rigging used for purchases and double blocks typically was smaller in diameter...especially if you were using the line for sheets and buntlines. It is easy to use over scaled lines...then they become over bearing on one another at the belay point. I use larger running rigging line for lifts...but the lines for purchases and blocks is smaller. If you ever look at real pics of sailing ships....you can hardly make out any of the lines....because they are so small in diameter. Personally, I would caution against using over sized rigging line. Rob

Tool conversations are always circlic. Who doesn't like talking about tools...no matter how braud the conversation goes. The original question was, *Are there better tools for drilling tiny holes?* If you want all your holes parallel...a drill press is the best solution. If you're requirement is tiny holes in tight, places...finger drills or pin vices work well.😀 Rob

Coming along nicely for sure. Rob

Thanks Rich. I was going to make these also from composite plastic...but after seeing so many dive in and do some soldering themselves....I wanted to do the same.....however, I designed mine to only need one solder joint and that included soldering the eye bolt at the same time as closing up the vertical sides. Some other examples I have seen look a bit larger...possibly as large as 1/4". but I had to fight the scale monster and even at the smallest I could make...1/8". It still means the blocks are a foot in scale size. I've seen real gin blocks and they are quite large....at around 10~12". I'll be using 3 per topsail yard for the fore and main masts, 2 for the mizzen topsail yard ...and....one for the topgallant and royal downhaul purchases. 14 in total. Rob

Yeah...what's up with that? A couple other paintings show black boats as well However....I think I'm gonna go with white. It was typical of the period and as mentioned...was far easier to see on the open ocean then black...for sure. UNLESS...it can be proven that McKay had these vessels pain these boat black....or dark green. I've got time to make this decision anyway. It's still information gathering. Rob

When I built my 1/96 Cutty Sark. I did indeed add the ships name on the bow of her life boats. Every painting of Staghound depicts her boats as black. Not sure why that is. I think that detail might be just a little too small to replicate. Thanks for the fine compliments. Rob

The extra detail is nice. Good suggestion. Rob

I finished up 15 gin blocks. One getting painted……the original and these boys and girls. Man what tiny metal work. Rob

Per Rich’s suggestion, I added name boards to the wheel box. Just for fun. They’re about 3.5 8ths long. Rob

Made six more.

There is always compromise when building in scale. Something’s just don’t scale very well….so…..you need to make adjustments. When all’s said and done, being in scale outweighs any mods you need to make to keep it so. And in my scale of 1/96, I have lots of room to fudge. 😆 Rob

And the final product. If I had made the sheeves any larger, the chain would never fit. Or I’d have to make the block waaaay to big and out of scale.

Now I’m ready to cut the metal sheeve and install it

Using micro bits, I do a little clean up.

Then comes the separation from the stock tubing. Again using my dental hand tool and separating disk.

Next ……. simply solder it in place

Next I make the eyelet by twisting brass wire. Then I insert it between the two upper frame wings.

Next I use my dental tool and separator disk and cut off two end corners. This will create the desired shape of the block.

Then I deform it by using a small hammer.

We’ll here is my tutorial on how I make my 1/8” gin blocks. First I begin with 1/8” copper tube.

Thanks Rick. Tomorrow I’ll show exactly how I make one. It’s quite easy actually. The real trick is knowing how to force the perspective of its function. You see, for a chain to properly fit in and around the sheeve, the body frame of the block must be large enough. However, if the sheeve is too large the chain binds between the sheeve and the frame of the block To prevent this from happening and to keep the block frame within the desired scale of 1/8”, you have to undersize the sheeve. The chain I use is the smallest available at 42LPI and it still needs room to move within the block. A true scale gin block is probably less then 3/32”. in this scale of 1/96. No one can make them that small and not go mad. Bluejacket doesn’t even use iron stropped gin blocks on their Red Jacket clipper model. Just large single blocks without a truck strong back tied to yard bands. So I have a ways to go. I’d like to see your gin blocks. Rob