rwiederrich
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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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Next I added the main yard down hauls and their purchases. Next will be the mizzenmast braces. Rob
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I opted to add the Down haul and lift rigging for the stays. Simple but appropriate. Rob
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These little guys(No more then a 1/4" long) are problematic in their installation. But they have to go in pretty much as the line gets belayed....because of space restrictions. I can spend an hour just planning out the next series of installs. Do I run the mizzen yard pennants and their braces down to their main mast blocks and then down to their belay pins......or do I do the same for the main mast yard pennants and their braces down to the mizzen mast blocks and down to their belay pins.........or lastly...do I run all the haulyards and their purchases for the main mast yards first? This mental process takes time....but really what is happening, is I'm trying to devise the easiest systematic process for install of all these elements, in the easiest sequence. For my mental stability's sake. I chose to run the main mast haulyards first....because, I had to reach deep within the build to add the deck eye bolts for the haulyard origin and the return blocks on the opposite side, mounted on the pin rail cap. 8 holes drilled for 4 eyebolts and 4 blocks-n-eyebolts. Thank the Lord I have small 90deg drill heads for my dental hand pieces......Or I would never have been able to successfully drill the holes for all those eyebolts. Foot long sharp tip tweezers are essential. One final note. I'm not sure if I will be adding the stay sail rigging....most of the time, these sails and their rigging where un bent and brought down while the vessel was in port. I'm still thinking about it. All of this before I install the backstays Rob
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The 70’s I think, it has the plastic sails. The hull isn’t painted copper, like my 50’s versions. Rob
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Good job, very clean. I was out yesterday and I found a CS kit at a local steam tractor museum for sale(believe it or not), and it is still in its original plastic wrap. I’m gonna use it for parts. Rob
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That’s a quick and easy solution. Make sure the eye is on the bottom that you have on the top. Proper deadeye position. Good move. Rob
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Yeah……those fair leads are smaller then a 1/16” and with 3 leads through them that thread like needles. Tiny stuff. I had to add two more belay pins at the rail to accommodate all the additional lines coming in from the mizzenmast yards. Calculating the sequence of line install takes as much thought at actually installing the lines……so I have no mishaps with tangling and crisscrossing. Thank for the confidence. Rob
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Indeed, that is why I use foot long tweezers and good agility. Still it takes a steady hand. Rob
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Yes… the GR was much smaller in scale, 1/128…….but because of her size she is still longer then Glory is at 1/96. Man GR was. Handful to rig. I left off no detail. I’m hoping to do the same or near the same with Glory. Rob
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Couple extra images from the flipped models stern. Rob
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Worked on finishing the port bunt line fairleads and belaying of the lines. Sweewww. What a web. Rope coils will follow. Rob
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Indeed, the miniature nature of our models makes tanglement of lines more difficult, do to the difficulty of viewing the issue from the deck up. Sometimes my vision goes wonky and I see weird depth phenomenon. Thanks as always. Rob
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Spent some time finishing up the rat lines and belaying bunt lines and adding rope coils. Lots of little details. Soo soo much more to do. Rob IMG_2863.MOV
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No...no specifics. I opted to use dead reckoning.........and visuals. Those items are so *iffy*, but if you use your head and determine from other ships...you can make a pretty close proximation. Rob
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Yes...you can easily fare out the inner edge to reduce the *flaring* of the lanyard. Still it is no real problem....remember not all of these bullseye's lanyards have to be the same length...they are indeed meant for tightening. But to keep things shipshape and Bristal clean...do your best. I'm currently reading the book *before the mast in the clippers*....to compilation of diary entries of a young man....and on several occasions he notes hours of painting the rigging and his hands were black as coal. Even historical accounts demonstrate the practice. So if the most accurate and detailed model is your aim...why not continue to be correct and rig properly too. Great job on your CS. Rob
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Just paint the ones you already did black..... Rob
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Just look at mine and see how they just blend in. Look at my finished Great Republic. Look at any painting or photograph of an old ship to be convinced. Rob
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After 4-5 years of construction you might become an assassin. Rob
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Even professionals make artistic calls…….however historical practice can never be re-written…….no matter what you call yourself. The images I provided mimicked tarred rope but was black nylon. Nothing yucky to get on you, while staying with historical accuracy. Rob
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The use of my words mean no disrespect to anyone. Through the years, most that I have encountered have simply and unknowingly mistaken the lanyards as running rigging…….therefore they rig them in tan rigging……unbeknownst to them it is inaccurate. Being ignorant of something does not imply anything but lack of knowledge. Now if they rig the lanyards out of choice or by way of artistic license…….then that is all together their right as the builder to do so. No judgments from me. Rob
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Poetic ignorance, if I may boldly say. If a model shipwright wants to build his model to the finest, remote detail...and they boast of their accuracy, then, he/she must not distract from the detail of properly weathering the lanyards on their models. they are not and have never been running rigging. Standing rigging is always protected against the weather...bullseye's, deadeye's lanyards are no different. Note the re-rigged Constitution...the naval architects and shipwrights new this and followed suit.
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Great job Bob...but remember...any lanyards used on bulleyes or deadeyes were considered part of the standing rigging...even though they, at times were used to tighten the system. These lanyards were coated in dark to black preserving tar material. They would not be left untreated. So, light lines are not typical of these systems. This is a common mistake most folks make because they think the lanyards are running rigging. they are not.. Rob
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Printing when all the cad work is done on the computer is done sounds fun. Watching your item materialize in front of you is cool for sure....but designing it on the computer isn't. Reminds me of astrophotography....you don't just aim your scope and camera at a celestial object and *click*. you have to stack hundreds if not thousands of images....add in *blacks* to keep the dark dark and *lights* to keep the lights light...then a little(A lot actually) computer wizardry...you can produce a wonderful image of a galaxy, or some other deep space object. The process is more computer work then actual photography as we know photography. Same goes for 3D printing. And the cost of a good printer is problematic for some. However, my 50 years of acquired kills, makes most scratch building easy for me. Rob
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