michaelpsutton2
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Everything posted by michaelpsutton2
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I think that there were some transitional ships built in which the middle strake was thicker than the regular plank but not yet as thick as the wales theselves. All three strakes would be paintied black and would give the appearance of a solid wale. At what point were the wales constructed with the anchor stock pattern? -
Ok so I measured the sheer on the plane a 23' radius and figured that the plank would spring back some when released so I bent a 21'
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How do I find the planking tutorials?
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The instructions say at the bottom of page 3 column 2 " You could also make the center of the sheer plank lower if you prefer a more curved sheer'
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So now I think the frames are square and mostly beveled, might need a little more work where the garboard is going to go. So I have questions about planking. 1.) According to the directions, the sheer is actually a little variable so long as it meets the upper edge of the transom aft, and the upper edge of the fairing blocks foreward ? 2.) The first two upper strakes are put on full width. But they need to be bent in two dimensions. for the sheer and also around the ribs. Do you bend them in one direction at a time? The sheer first? And does rewarming them for the second bend undo the first?
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I am fairing the frames with 320 in my bare hand. Do you recommend a sanding block?
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The yellow glue did give a minute to adjust. They are not perfect but I will live with it. Do I put the bow chocks in before or after I fair the frames?
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Thanks , I am on it!
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Under way with the fair-a-frame! When the frames are fully inserted, I assume they come right down to the rabbet?If anyone out there sees me going wrong please speak up! The pencil tick should be center of frame. Are the center tops of the frames parallel to the keel or do they follow the sheer?
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I really like the look of the pencil in between the planks to accentuate the seams. Will that work in the scarf joint between the stem and the keel or will it interfere with the adhesive? Also how do you feel about a little satin poly on the flat surfaces before assembly. I want all the parts to look separate. Chuck when you talk about reinforcing the stem, do you mean the stem itself or the joint with the keel?
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And by the way if I could get mine to come out anything like Tigersteve's or so many others. But I fear my eyes have overplayed my hands.
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So........this is my first build and to kinda bring up my woodworking skills a bit (did I mention I am primarily a researcher, painter, & illustrator) I have spent every evening since Christmas sanding building and varnishing a "Fair-a Frame". I certainly can do the filler blocks and understand how they would work but just have to ask why? I thought the filler blocks were used by guys who didn't hve ready access to a new, softly glowing "Fair-a Frame".
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Hi! I looked at Bob's build log. Should I use his rabbit as a good example? I see how narrow it is on the stem. Thanks! Mike
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Doesoes the bearding line basically parallel the bottom of the false keel forward of where the scribed line ends ? Or to put it another way is the tapered section the same width all the way along the false keel and up around the stem
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Good afternoon, it is so cool to be 64 years old and still be getting toys for Christmas. In this case the Model Expo 18th Century Longboat kit. I did not really intend to take up a lot of time on a build log that has been done a dozen times but still need a little bit of advise from time to time. I just opened the box a couple of hours ago and already I have questions. 1.) There are two identical laser cut keel and two stems, both cut from extremely this stock. There is nothing in the instruction book about this. Should they be glued face to face in order to reach full thickness. The false keel is twice as thick. 2.) What is the best glue for the planking? I am intending to use yellow caprenters for the frame because of the slow set up time. I have a "Fair-a frame" to get them straight. 3.) I have seen some builds where a long piece is glued across the tops of the frame centers to help stiffen them during the fairing/planking process. I this a good idea? Thanks Mike
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Does anyone know how old the sails are?
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It will be interesting to see what Grant Walker has to say about the "Fair American" in what should be his third volume on the models at Preble Hall. I understand that there is some question as to what vesel the model actually depicts.
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ancre Le Fleuron by juzek - 1:27
michaelpsutton2 replied to juzek's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I have always liked this ship and am looking forward to see how it goes -
You might look at: "Period Ship Modelling: An Illustrated Masterclass" by Phillip Reed. There is a detailled explanation about making sails for his model of the Prince of Neufchatel
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Introduction of royal yards to the Royal Navy
michaelpsutton2 replied to Mark P's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You can imagine that the royal yards were introduce gradually. By this I mean early on they were lash up affairs made with spare spars. There was almost certainly a period when they were set "flying" with no braces or clue lines and were taken down poles yards and all instead of being furled. Think about the gunter skysails on the USS Constitution early in the 19th century as compared to the permanent ones on McKay's and Webb's clipper 25 years later. It is a maturing and refining process at work. -
Working on a drawing of the Fife yacht Mariquita. Tons of photos available. So with enough care and patience it should be possible to get each sail seam, reinforcement and gusset in just the right place. But............ No one photo has a perfect view of the complete set of sails. So it takes multiple pictures. You got to make sure the different photos you use were taken at the same time. The sail plans on yachts are always being tweeked. So if you have a sail plan from 2006 and you are trying to put the cloth arrangement from a 2014 photo, it may not work. The 2014 sail may not be the exact same shape as the 2006 plan shows. No reason in the world to go into how I have come by this particular "epiphany"
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That railing is very cool
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It is hard to tell does the ship in the painting have trailboards. McKay's ships di not have trailboards. That would be more common in British ships.
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The single topsails say American 1850's clipper. The flag is British. A vessel from 1850-1865 for sure. The painting has something of the "feel" of a Montague Dawson painting.
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Pennants Flown from Mastheads c1770
michaelpsutton2 replied to BANYAN's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Over the years I have found "Flags:for Ship Modellers and Marine Artists" by Alec A Purves to be most helpful. Particularly the sections on how to size flags and pennants
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