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michaelpsutton2

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Everything posted by michaelpsutton2

  1. I do not mean to jump the gun but............... what color/colors will you be using for the upper works.? I have seen black. dark gray, blue, and even green in various models and paintings. The Storck painting of the Four Days battle seems to show the dark gray. I would like to do a painting
  2. Really fine the carved frieze work is great. Would you mind sharing with me how you have obtained that "muted" finish. I would love to be able duplicate it
  3. For a guy who claims limited skills, faced with details beyond his ability that's nice work. I will watch with interest
  4. I can only think of one or two occasions when I have ever had a list of how many clothes there are in the sails of a particular ship. But it would be fantastic if I did. If you read Steele, he has some rules about how many clothes but gives some wiggle room as in this from the section on main topmast staysails: there are from 1 to 3 cloths more in the foot than the leech is yards in depth. That would give you the room to adjust the number of seams
  5. First I am a painter not a model maker... So when drawing 18th & 19th century British naval vessels at 16' to the inch or 1/192, I draw the sail seams as a single line. I just don't have a pen fine enough to do a double line seventy-eight ten thousandths of an inch apar. The clothes usually start out at 24" wide minus the lap at the seams. Steele & Lee call for a 1.5 inch double flat seam. Should I be drawing the seams on my sails scaled to represent 22.5 inches apart or is there other losses in a double flat seam? Thanks as always
  6. Although they are in black & white almost every picture I have seen from that period shows the hoops as lighter than the masts. The masts were pine and spruce treated with oil. So it was lighter than that. I too have read thant they were of ash which is a pale wood
  7. Howard I Chappelle has an excellent book "The Baltimore Clipper" If you are going to research and then decide for your self it would be wise to have as many examples as possible. At least here in New orleans it is available from the library.
  8. I think that as with most things, the practices would have varied over time. There is an addtional factor that brings some confusion to the issue Take just a few quiet minutes to peruse the collections on the Nataional maritime Musuem Website: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections.html#!cbrowse You will find that almost none of the draughts show brackets for the channels, yet almost all of the detailed models do have them. Maybe the guys who drew the plans felt it it was unnecessary to tell the carpenter/shipwrights how to do their jobs.
  9. The plan set for the Cutty Sark by Campbell have a detailed coppering layout for what would have been a very similar vessel. Google "Cutty Sark" Plans Here is a link to the museum shop at Greenwich for the plan, Cheap at 4 pounds http://shop.rmg.co.uk/cutty-sark/collections/cutty-sark/product/cutty-sark-general-arrangement-plan.html
  10. the yacht corsair
  11. An example for your consideration The main mast is too short (some sort of error in converting to scale), the fore topmast is too long (one look at the fore topsail should have told me the proportions were not right). The steps of the fore and mizzen masts are placed too low (I found a interior profile after the painting was finished)
  12. It is singularly unforgiving. It is the moment just before the pen touches the pen touches the board for the first time that is so addictive. At that moment I just know this painting is going to be perfect. Once I begin, each brush stroke is a kind of compromise. And in the end my own limitations force me to have to continue the quest for the ultimate work from the beginning all over again. Last night I began an illustration of HMS Rose 1757 based on the original draughts not on the replica now in existance and iI told myself as I sat in front of that prisine white canvas that just maybe, God willing and a fair wind, this will be the one.
  13. In Petrejus' book on the Irene there is some information on her spars in the Dutch service as well as a comparison with the general purpose sail plans for brigs at the NMM. And there are differences to be seen. You might look at the sail plan http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/84439.html The caption says it is from the 20th century. Diagramatic sail plans are rather uncommon but I would hope for a written list of spar lengths. Is it unreasonable to believe that with so many vessals in the class that at least one such list would make it's way down to us? Some may think that I am splitting hairs here. I am primarily a painter not a model maker. Subtle difference in the spar dimensions can make major differences in the look of my paintings. You model guys get all particular about deck plans which make a huge difference in models and none at all the paintings. In the end though I think all of us hate, absolutley hate to go through a project that takes months and then find some previously undiscovered piece of significant information that contradicts what he have done. I guess models can be corrected, my paintings cannot
  14. The National Maritime Museum at Greenwich has any number of draughts related to the Cruizer class and as you say with a little researchone could reproduce almost any one of them. But to the best of my knowledge there is no definitive set of spar dimensions or sail plan that is positively identified as belonging to a Cruizer class vessal either brig or ship rigged. There are a number of sail plans listed as being "generally suitable for the smaller classes of ships". They would apply equally to Cruizer, Cherokee or other classes. Does anyone know of a document that lists masts and yards or a drawing? It is of course possible, even easy to calculate the spar dimensions from Steel's The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship, or Edyes Elements of Rigging & Seamanship, or even Lee's Masting & Rigging English Ships of War. It would be great though, to have a set of numbers that was actually put into service to confirm one's approximations.
  15. Good morning Scott I have been a fan of this forum for some years although I have been up to now a painter not a model maker. Tonight I will be starting my first wooden model......the phantom. I look forward to you encountering and then solving all the problems ahead of me, so keep it up
  16. I would like to reinforce the need to end seal as the wood diess. I dry my own wood for other projects I get the best results cutting in the winter drying at least till the following fall with the bark on and the end sealed. My wood dries under cover but not temperature controlled The end seal "ruins" about 1/4 to 1/2" of the ends so cut longer than you need.
  17. I think that you will find linen, flax & hemp were the most common up to about 1830. They tended to be creamier or slightly yellowed. After that, European sailors claimed that they could identify American vessels by their whiter cotton sails
  18. I might suggest consulting "Modeling the Brig of War Irene" by E.W. Petrejus. It contains a lot of info on the HMS Grasshopper 1806. She was a cruizer class brig taken into the Dutch navy as the Irene.
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