GemmaJF

I am not rich, but not really constrained so much by the cost of a kit. Much more constrained by the realization I have far more to build and finish than lifetime remaining to finish it all. Lots of nice kits on my shelves gathering dust. Never the less, if a big temptation comes along, I will succumb to the emotion.   

GemmaJF
 
Is your Bounty one of the kits?  If so which kit and at what scale.  Perhaps there are examples on MSW we can look at.
 
Phil

IMHO most models show an exaggerated pattern: usually too raised and prominent. Actual examples (Cutty Sark, Victory, etc) show nail heads virtually flush with the plates.

Just finished the Kate Cory late last year... used copper tape cut into plate-sized strips and applied onto a varnished surface. They do not have the nail or rivet pattern. I have done nothing to maintain their shine, and will enjoy seeing it darken with age.   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6842-kate-cory-by-jablackwell-finished-model-shipways-scale-164/?p=211568   At this scale, nail patterns would be just too much, in my opinion. 
 
~john

I havent posted on here for over a year but my build is still going, it is my first scratch build, a 1/72 HMS Victory. My problem lies in the lack of challenge, It all started with a monthly subscription of the AL HMS Victory 6 years ago, it was well advertised in Britain. Started the kit along with many others at the time on a slowly but surly monthly build, time went by and I started to feel a lack of challenge that I was expecting from the kit, so I bought McKay`s book and jumped into a scratch build.
I decided to make it at 1/72 simply because I could buy 3rd party cannons anchors and all the stuff I couldn`t make, as I merrily carried on with my build not hitting any problems. So I decided to have a go at making the cannons, turned them out of ebony and found yep I can do that.
So thinking a little deeper I split the cannons in two so I could build the entire cannons on every deck then remove the bit of the barrel that sticks out any replace it when the build is finished. Then my old mate the LACK OF CHALLENGE was again tapping on my shoulder so OK going to have a go at carving the stern decorations and again did that, next carved the figure head, built a the barge with anchor and oars and again no challenge, so as the challenges fall so does my enthusiasm.
 
So advice for a beginner… dont think one day, right gonna build a wooden model ship, no keep the idea in your head and let your enthusiasm grow, and when your really keen and ready thats the time to jump in, as for the rules there is none. Pick as big a scale as you can this makes the detail much easier but keep in mind the space you need to build it, another point is the time it will take to finish the build, the longer it takes the more your mind will go through different phases, so I think a 3 to 6 month build would be ideal, one last point and I use this one, is if you find you need a break, cover you build up with a towel, this stops you catching sight of your model on a regular basis, then when your ready to start again, you will find removing the cover will give the model a fresh look..
 

Hi Steve,
 
Great work on your Bounty! Lots of progress made and the results are very nice indeed. The hull planking is especialy good, considering the bluff bow is a challenge. I once read that the white applied to the bottom of the hull was some kind of coating to discourage marine growth. Quite toxic in fact. I don't know how effective it was. I like the white too and used it on my Unicorn.
 
Anyhoo, thanks for all the great photos, and I'll continue to follow your log.
 
Peter

Self-adhesive paper
 
Also for simulating cooper sheating
 

 
And after march of 4000 pieces, playing with thin acrylic and mat lacquer looking for color of Muntz metal
 
 

I disagree that a kit is "just a bundle of wood". A good kit, at least, has had quite a bit of thought put into it by the designer and can save the builder quite a bit of mental energy. Having done both scratch and kit models, I enjoy the mental stimulation of designing and preparing everything myself in a scratchbuild, but also enjoy the relaxation of knowing that someone else has thought through the process for me in a kit. I think that dismissing kits as "just wood" does a disservice to the significant skill, art, and research that goes into kit design.
 
Now, a bad kit like my current build is more trouble than it's really worth. I should have scratchbuilt this one, given the amount of mental and physical work I'm doing to make up for its shortcomings. But not all kits are the same.
 
As for the original question, as I have a very limited disposable income (a few hundred US dollars a year for modelling), I keep things simple. No power tools, basic hand tools, try to re-use anything I can in future work, try to find workarounds for purchases (like making sails out of bond paper left over from Mrs. Cathead's graduate thesis over a decade ago rather than buy fine sailcloth). I would rather my models be enjoyable and cost-effective to build than perfect, and so allow myself a certain amount of leeway in the accuracy/perfection department to achieve the other goals.

Its really not a fair question.   It depends on what you will be satisfied with in the end result.  The old motto is true...."you get what you pay for".
 
You can spend 5 bucks for a chisel or you can spend $150 for a better one.   My guess is you will not be happy with the $5 chisel and will end up throwing it away.   You can spend $30 for a bandsaw blade or $225.   Etc. Etc....
 
You get what you pay for.  This hobby is certainly not going to allow you to build models like this one below for $200   - $300.  Its an expensive hobby once it grabs hold of you.  It just depends on what you will be satisfied with in the end.  Again its not really a fair question because some folks are willing to invest much money (if they can) and much time tobuild a model like this....but many are just as satisfied with a less ambitious result.  
 
If you are going to spend $1000 bucks on something that will take you maybe three years to complete I would say that is a very reasonable and inexpensive hobby.   How many people spend just $335 dollars a year on a hobby for decent results.   Especially if its something that will give you years of pleasure and enjoyment.   I know guys that drop 100's every month bowling on a league......for me its just not worth it.  I think that kind of money is better spent on ship modeling is.....so again....its not really a fair question.  It more about how much do you really want it.   You spend money on what you are passionate about and everyone is different.....I spent 200 dollars on a cheap saw once because I couldnt afford a good one.  It was a terrible decision.  Finally I saved enough to buy a Byrnes saw and it makes the hobby much more enjoyable.  And that saw will last me a lifetime while the cheaper one was good for nothing out of the box.
 

It sure does Doug thanks for following.
Thanks ej I'm enjoying the colour scheme it's a nice change from looking at my victory
I was tempted to copper plate but liked the white hull often depicted on bounty .
I have no idea why the hull is painted white on bounty and some other ships is it just white paint in real life or does it represent some sort of coating ?

Thanks Gemma if there is anything I can help you with don't hesitate to ask .
I have found instructions lacking so have done a few things my own way so don't take anything I do as gospel but I do hope the photos help and you can see how things turn out my way before committing to my approach

Hello all welcome back for an update.
I have completed planking and must say after going at it with a proper plan and layout have really enjoyed this sometimes frustrating part of the build
I have sanded the hull lightly filled the pin holes I used to hold the planks and re sanded.
as you can see from the photos there is no need for expensive keel clamps  and water line type drawing devices
I have simply held the ship plum by clamping a block of wood to the keel and I screwed a pencil to the top of a piece of wood tested height on wall then cut wood block to apropiate  height.
after fitting the whales I begun paint starting with the stain because if I go over the lines I can paint over the stain but cant stain over the paint
 
For months before I started the build I have struggled with how the bulwarks are fitting in a billings kit they seem to show me in the drawing laying a plank flat and building on top of this however it then does not marry up with the scale drawing.
also I think they want me to just use the bare plywood .
So I have taken matters into my own hands cut the tabs off I so tried to protect from damage from start of build .
I then planked the bulwarks inside and out and will add thin strips on outside and inside of bulwark so it looks like it is on top of these and marrys up with scale drawing.
also stern cabin mouldings are going straight in the bin forcing myself to come up with something more accurate.not sure how that will go watch this space.
finally ive begun work on framing the inside of the bulwarks .
Thanks for viewing
 
Steve.
 

Been a bit since the last update.  Thanks for following along on this journey of discovery and sawdust and for the likes and the comments.
 
A bit of a minor/major milestone... the ship is in the cradle... YIPPEE!!!!!
 
The next step is start removing the build board and trimming down the frames to the sheer strake(s).  
 
I considered pedestals versus a cradle as I didn't want to stress the keel, etc .nor did I want to attempt to put a large baseboard on at this point.  The cradle just seems (to me) to be steadier and stronger.  I noted that I do seem to get some wobble on my Constellation which is on pedestals.  It could be my method of mounting is faulty or just the way it is with them.
 
The cradle is 1/4" mahogany (see photo).  After finessing it into position, assembling it and re-finessing, I drilled a 3/32" hole through the cradle and inserted a brass tube of the appropriate diameter.  I mounted the cradle into position, and drilled (using the tubing as a drill guide) a 1/16" hole through the keel, frames and keelson.  A brass rod was inserted with a light coating of epoxy.  When set, the cradles were set into place with more epoxy on the brass rod and in two places on each end of the cradle.  The structure seems sound and steady. 
 
I tried to design the cradle so as not to hide the lines of her and I think I pretty much succeeded.   At some point, the hole where the crosspieces go through the cradle will be covered by a small carving on each.  I'm leaning towards a fleur de lis.
 
Anyway, here's the pictures.
 

 

 

 

I also decided to run the wiring/switch/battery outside the boat, to later be hidden in the display stand.

Now on to the some deck accessories and cannon rigging.  I went with something different for the rigging, as I was having a very hard time twisting wire to make loops for the little blocks.  So I used the loop attached to the side of the boat as a makeshift block because it can't really be seen.  On the upper deck I will use a different approach that will use a little hook attached to the block. 

While working on the inside planking and gunwale covers(lots of difficulty with the bow end) I decided to have more fun by doing the decorative parts to the backend.  Not in the right order, but I'm the boss lol    And I also made sure it wouldn't cause issues with any preceding steps. 

The book is a replica of Darwins famous book, not period correct but I don't care about that stuff as much.  Its fun, and that is what this build is all about.  Scale wise, I just tried to make stuff close, as long as it passed the eye test it was good for me.  As you may notice, I used a mini dremel bit to drill through the leg of the table, which is where i plan to run the LED wiring for the candle. 

Howdy,
 
This is my first build and thought I would share the experience on here as I am sure there will be lots to share with others new builders and lots learn from you folks. I know the forums suggest going easy with the first build, but I inevitably regret not getting what my heart is set on with these types of projects, and will all of the online support and my own commitment to doing a good job and researching plenty, I just jumped right in with the HMS Surprise kit. These were the main reasons(for those new builders grappling with the same situation)
 
-I wanted something in as large a scale as possible and 1:48 was appealing
-I wanted something imposing, artful and sentimental to display in the home
-I thought the Surprise was very visually appealing and had enough detail and accessories to be interesting, but wasn't as daunting as 100+ HMS Victory cannons for instance.
-The kit had very good reviews, online support, build logs and INSTRUCTIONS:)
-I wanted the kit to have a full complement of rigging and sails.
 
So that's it. On to the build.
 
Note: I started the build 2 months ago and took tons of pics along the way in case I decided to do a build log. I'm currently finished with the upper decking and inside planking, and starting the many upper decks accessories. I'll post pics and comments in chronological order until caught up, then it'll slow down significantly to real time progress lol.
 
I appreciate any comments and tips...thanks.

Sorry to hear what happened to you.  One should never glue down the planks while they are wet.  The results are what happened for the reason you gave.   You can wet the wood and then pin the plank in place and let it dry.  After it completely dry it is removed and then reset and glued in place. 
 
There is no fix for this except maybe filling, sanding and repainting. 
 
Allan

After the mutiny, Capt Bligh's voyage and the trial of the mutineers the Bounty had become one of the most famous vessels in history.  It was big news several times years apart. Had she been painted in any but the most normal colors of the day surely it would have been mentioned.  You could picture some old harbor drunk saying"I knew that bright pink ship would come to no good" But all the sources are silent on her appearance, so it must have been plain as can be. I wouldn't get to decorative. If you look at William Dodd's aquatint of Captain Bligh being put into the boat, there is not a drop of blue on her. Dodd was contemporary with the events but I do not think he could ever have claimed to have seen her. He could have met some those who sailed on her though  color scheme used on the recent Endevour  replica would probably serve. Here is one I think might not be too far off:
http://www.stephensandkenau.com/ship/hms-bounty/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Bligh#/media/File:Mutiny_HMS_Bounty.jpg