lmagna

Touch up finished. 

Thank you @oneslim, @Siggi52, @lmagna, @Jack12477, @Omega1234, @paulsutcliffe, @mtaylor, and @BANYAN for you responses. Much appreciated.
_________________________________________
It is getting close to creating the river. However, everything in and around it needs to be completed. This includes the Buoy Tender.
So I went back to the Buoy Tender. It needs to be completed so it can have the crane and new buoy on deck.
Besides making deck furniture (so-to-speak) the boat needs to be painted.
 

 

 
In between coats of paint I got busy building a small boat for transporting crew to shore.
Chose to make a rubber dinghy, with outboard motor.
Used off-cuts of wooden dowel, MDF board, matchsticks, paddle-pop stick, paper clip, and Masonite.
 

 

 

Hello all,
 
Here is an update to the "Java" build.  Beris Mulenko  from "Pacific Crossroads" gently informed me that I made an error with the deck paint.  Sources in the Netherlands told him that the deck was painted in dark grey paint for camouflage purposes.  Thus, no matter how much I like that wood deck color I have to go by what the ship looked like in 1942 to keep it authentic.
So, we put the ship back in the dockyard and called up a bunch of painters and a lot of paint and proceeded to paint all the deck areas. The paint job came out very good and it should stand out against the blue sea.
 
I made a start with the diorama base a few days ago. I used a 1/4 inch thick cabinet door for the base, 28 inches long by 8 inches wide. I am using the same molding for the sides as I used for the O19 model display base, except I removed 1/4 inch from the bottom part of the molding. After the molding is glued and nailed to the sades it'll make a tub of 1/2 inch depth.  I am using brass trim nails for it to lend some support for the glue as i did with the O19 display board.  
 
I had to buy a few additional clamps that can open up to clamp the side molding to the base plate.  For the side pieces I'll have to rely on the nails to secure the molding to the base as the glue cures.
 
This is as far as I got. Next order of business is the polymer sea material. HobbyLobby sells the stuff for about $30 a pint.  I also need the blue coloring material to mix it into the polymer to make it opaque. They also sell a polymer material to make the waves and other water features such as the shell splashes, bow wave, the turbulent water at the hull sides and stern. Like I mentioned before, this'll be an experience for me, a first time effort and hope it comes out okay.
 
Okay, here are a few picks.
 
 
Hr. Ms. Java with her decks painted dark grey. Hmmm, she does look more war like.
 

The base of the diorama with the molding pieces loosely placed along side and on top of it. It's a very simple molding material that I'll stain in maple.
 

Here I have st "Java" on the diorama base as I like to display her.
 

Another view.
 
Cheers,

Greg,
I love the oil canning.  Tedious but effective.
 
On the brass deck, I'm not familiar with brass decks but would roughing up the surface a bit with some extremely fine sandpaper or steel wool work?   I had to do that once on a metal car model.  

Now this brass deck is a gift that keeps giving. No matter how clean little bits keep peeling off with the masking. 
 
Little bits of patch up to do, then more little bits of masking to do the visible deck hatches. Once that is done, I can start on filters and washes, then the dreaded decals. 
 
The clear coat coat on the fire deck bleached the paint for some reason so I have to mess around with that for a bit too. 
 
 

DUM DUM DE DUM, DA DE DA DA DA DA DA!!!! (Need sound) 
 
Lou

Brass plated pedastals which came with the kit and wood base.   The prepainted hull has discolored a bit in  the box and the.copper color has a slight greenish patina now.  Have not decided.yet to leave as is or repaint.   

I understand what you meen  - this shot I took also shows the frames and texture of the hull plating.
 
OC.

It’s not hard to replicate, just a tad tedious; think treenailing! 
 
That being said, there are panels on the hull with no ribs, which I read were ‘aftermarket’ additional armour on the hull or strengthening plates. Nearly there. 

Now, to answer the question of What is oil canning? You can see the side of the hull in this photo that shows the ribs. 

From the looks of it ,I am missing six holes. 

DUM DUM DE DUM, DA DE DA DA DA DA DA!!!! (Need sound) 
 
Lou

DUM DUM DE DUM, DA DE DA DA DA DA DA!!!! (Need sound) 
 
Lou

DUM DUM DE DUM, DA DE DA DA DA DA DA!!!! (Need sound) 
 
Lou

The hawse holes are drilled.
I apply a layer of teak oil on the wales and on the black strakes.
I'm ready to apply the black color on the wales and the red color on the inside planking. I will keep the natural wood for the waterway.
And as I just received the acrylic colors, it will time for the painting phase...
 

Thank you @BANYAN, for your response.
Thank you @mtaylor, @paulsutcliffe, @druxey, @KeithAug, @Jack12477, and @BenF89 for your 'likes'.
______________________________________________
It has come to my attention that the whole display / diorama has not been seen for a while.
So here are some photographs:
I found it quite difficult to take single photo of the whole lot. It's like cramming myself into a corner to take the shot.
 

 

Just wow!  After only seeing bits and pieces, I had no idea....  

Thank you @mtaylor, @oneslim, @prutser, @BANYAN, @Omega1234, @Jack12477, and @paulsutcliffe for your reactions and comments.
________________________________________________________
Well Pat, that is a problem. We need to fix that up somewhat...with The Whopper!
 

 

From the bird's eye view, very convincing.

Thank you @BANYAN and @druxey for your comments.
Thank you @Omega1234, @BANYAN, @michael mott, @KeithAug, @BenF89, @Jack12477, @oneslim, @mtaylor, and @prutser for your 'likes'.
_______________________________________________________
A fair bit of the ground will be covered with trees, especially the south-west side (other side of car park).
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DIY static grass applicator. It works very well for small dioramas (1 or so square feet max). Any bigger and the charge gets overly dissipated and becomes weak.
 

 

 

 
Experimented with grass applicator on the diorama. Results were mixed, but generally poor. Ended up using a small vacuum cleaner to assist in raising any loose grass into a vertical position. Repeated this application on the same area while the glue was still wet. This helped.
 
The shire council applied lots of wood-chip mulch over the north-side of the bridge. I did the same, and for both sides of the bridge to even up the display.
Grass, plants and trees will cover much of the mulch.
 

 

 

 
Added previous grass sample (patch) to diorama. It peels off the baking paper and then glued where you want it (great for clumps of grass).

Thank you @oneslim, @BANYAN, @prutser, @Jack12477, and @mtaylor for your 'likes'.
___________________________________________________________________________
 

 

 

 

part 2 of the oilcanning process, horizontal lines, then a light diluted overspray. I’ll leave it for at least 12 hours to dry then add a few ‘Hard’ panels to represent armour additions, then a filter coat. 

Well... there is a certain theme music I hear when I looked at those blaste... err... guns. 

I couldn't wait. I wanted to paint tomorrow so I had to do some shading tonite. my girl says It looks like somthing that belongs on starwars.