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Paul Jarman

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About Paul Jarman

  • Birthday 04/11/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Emmer Green, Caversham, Reading, Berkshire,UK
  • Interests
    looking after my dog Cassie. Building model ships both wood and plastic. building model aircraft.

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  1. Thanks,I will admit it was a bit scary at first. But once you get used to working with the PE it comes out fine. I find it helps to spray on some CA glue activator which bonds it instantly. You will be fine adding PE. It will just be a bit smaller that's all. My biggest problem as I have mentioned before is the shaking hands. The stage that will get me will be adding the rigging across the two masts . Good Luck when you start to build your version.
  2. The top part of the main mast. This is made with the MK1 kit and replaces all of the Trumpeter parts. It is OK but I put the yard on the wrong side and am not going to take it apart to fix it. The hand rails are alright but the ends broke. As with these things it does look impressive when seen normally. Now onto the bottom part which will also have a lot of replacement and extra parts.
  3. After much thinking about the yard I decided to change it. I did not like the way it bent down. Or that the cord was way out of scale and drew your attention to the rigging. So I have used the rolled brass yard from the MK1 kit. The only downside was how fragile it was. Even this would bend down with to much tension. So I added the line to give it more strength at each end of the yard. this has stopped it pulling down. There was very little surface for it to bond to either. So I left the centre part of the plastic mast in place to act as a brace and that has worked out fine. I also swapped the 0.4mm cord foe 0.2mm. It should be 5 double lines but that was way to finnicky to do. But it does look far better and more like how it looks on the ship. I have also added a few more stays to the funnels. Just the main mast to do and a few bits that will added to the hull and it will be finished.
  4. I've added the funnel stays and rigged the bottom spar. The biggest problem was not having smaller scale cord. So it is out of scale. And the tension has pulled one side down. It does not look as bad as the photo makes it look. But it is still not perfect. Will have to decide if I should pull it all apart and start again. The biggest problem as I mentioned previously is the shaking hands.
  5. The bridge and masts completed and in place. This was a real problem because the masts fitted perfect when I dry fitted them. However once I added all the parts they would not hold in place with CA glue because of the tension in them. So I have glued them in place with Araldite. This has glued them in firmly. I then realised I had not added a part that goes below the starfish and holds the spar in place. So I have had to add half of it and luckily it does not show up to much. Just have to work out the rigging now and decide how much to add. My problem now as the Doctor is always telling me when I bring it up is the age related hand trembling. Tring to tie off rigging in close quarters makes it appear as if there is a earth tremor going on. I will also see is I can add some of the funnel stays. Although I should have done so before adding all the parts around the funnels.
  6. I'm priming with E-TECH Technik self etch primer.Which is excellent for PE and only needs one coat. And I am using Tamiya colour for all the grey PE. Any that is painted black I am using Tamiya Lacquer paint.
  7. Thanks Alan,I've lost count of just how much I have added to the model using the MK1 upgrade kit. Paul
  8. The top part of the bridge is finished ready for the masts to be added. There are so many ladders and hand rails in this one section. Half of which can't be seen. Could have looked better but it will do. I will remember in future not to build the complete section and then add the extras. I should have added a lot of the hand rails before gluing the various parts together. I have made a few alterations as recommended on the HMS Hood web site. Mostly adding small parts such as columns and removing sections that where open on the ship. There are also quite a few added extras from the MK1 upgrade kit added to it.
  9. With my previous wooden models i chose ships that i liked the look of. And I built the Amati wooden model of Titanic because I had a built 5 plastic Revell kits over the years and wanted to build a more challenging model. I am currently building HMS Hood so have chosen to build models of Bismarck, Prinz Eugen and HMS Prince of Wales because of the historical connection of the four ships.
  10. Thanks I will keep that in mind when using it. Thank you for the like.
  11. I have added over 50 more parts to the model. All of them using the MK1 upgrade kit. The two main derricks, the two davits for the sea boats, which have more PE if I want to hang them and the booms that went down the side of the hull. These are in their stored position but I have added the Jacobs ladders and Lizards which I believe where used to drag the paravanes along the side of the hull. I am now starting on the top part of the bridge. Once that is done and the two masts added it will be all but finished. On another note I may be a closet masochist: in this context before anyone asks, 'a person who enjoys an activity that appears to be painful or tedious' Throughout my posts I have been saying that enough is enough with the PE kits because they not only add many hours and months to the build but they are also so infuriatingly unbelievable to work with. And then I go and treat myself to the following aftermarket kits. The MK1 Bismarck upgrade kit, the Eduard Prince of Wales and Prince Eugen upgrades. I have never used Eduard PE before but it does look like good quality if not a bit small.
  12. Ships boats completed and in place. These took far longer than they should have. The problem was every time I photographed them the paint job did not look perfect when viewed close up. So I kept repainting them. In the end I made the decision that they look just fine and I am happy with the way they look.
  13. Woking on the ships boats. I am using some PE but mostly they look just fine built out of the box. The one colour I was finding hard to source was the Navy Blue. I came across this one from Follkart. This is excellent paint. It has a very good constituency and covers really well. Will be looking at using this in a lot of my painting in future.
  14. I believe it is all down to personal choice. I personaly prefare to paint my models. The ones I have made from wood do look nice unpainted, but I find them much better looking painted. And also what type of ship you are building. I look at a lot of models here on MSW and online and usually find that most of the masted ships do look better unpainted. However when I go on holiday to a coastal area and visit one of the harbours, especially a working fishing harbour I enjoy lookig at all the boats in all their different colours and find a lot of inspiration for my own models. Paul
  15. Double checking through the instructions and I had omitted one small detail. There are various ladders going down from the deck which I had fitted. For some reason I forgot to add the hand rails and have now added them. Luckily I managed to add them in the cramped space on the deck and only knocked one very small part off. I have also added the lumber to the funnel bases as suggested on the HMS Hood web site. Also have been adding various hand rails around the hull. All the guns and rocket launchers are in place. I am adding various details to the deck before starting on the ships boats then the bridge and masts. I will also have to make a decision on the ladders going down the hull. They where dismantled and stored when at sea. And I have to admit I don't like them as they take away the sleek lines of the hull when the model is displayed. I may add them on the side that will not be seen once displayed and decide if I like them or not.
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