Jim Rogers

To scupper or not to scupper.
 
Most contemporary models do not show the scuppers.   In fact the contemporary model of Speedwell doesnt show the scuppers. I didnt add the scuppers on my Winnie build which was typical.  But I am going to show them on my speedwell.   Nothing fancy.   These arent too crazy to do.   Not like the hawse holes will be.  But you do have to be careful.  You need to carefully measure them inboard and outboard so they look like they line up.  You can actually use the deck planking templates because I have marked the inboard locations for all of the scuppers.
 
When I drill my scuppers I dont even try to drill them all the way through.   That adds unnecessary difficulty.   I drill shallow holes only about 1/16" deep or slightly more.   Inboard, I start with a small pilot hole with a small drill bit.   Then in this case, I used a #47 drill bit afterwards to make them larger.   Finally I used a round file to smooth out the hole’s insides.   I lightly sanded the inboard bulwarks over the scuppers with some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out any fraying.  This will require some paint touch-up later when they are all done.  The scupper holes were made flush with the deck level or just a hair above.
 
I prefer to use a soft pencil to darken the inside of the holes.  I made sure to cover the entire inside surface of the scuppers including the back of the hole.   Then I touch up the red bulwark paint.  On this model I drilled the scuppers before I added the waterway.  I just wanted to try something new.  It worked out really well for me.  No chipping or fraying of the water way at all.  You can do it whichever way is more comfortable for you.
 
The picture below shows the holes drilled and darkened with the pencil.   They are nice and dark.  I touched up the red paint as well on the bulwarks afterwards.  You can see the waterway strip also prepared in advance and ready to be glued into position.
 

The waterway is a 3/64" x 3/64" strip of cedar.  I sanded one of the four corners of the strip down its entire length.  I used an Emory board or sanding stick.   Basically I made it triangular in profile.  Then I held it in position so I could mark the positions for the scuppers along its length.  I really tried to get these exactly where they should be located.  I used a round mini file to make the half round openings along the length of the waterway where the scuppers were marked out.  Once in position this really looked good.   I used the same soft pencil to darken the round notches I made along the waterway as well.   Below you can see how the scuppers inboard turned out.  I made the waterway in two pieces for the gun deck rather than use one long strip that spanned across the whole length.
 

I also prepared the waterway for the poop deck, port and starboard.   This was easy...no scuppers, LOL.   Just make the strip triangular.  Dont worry about trying to make it concave or anything fancy.   
 
Here is a photo.
 

Finally to the outboard side.  No difference here really.   I used those outboard templates we used way back when....remember those.   If you have to shift the template fore and aft a bit to line them up with the inboard scuppers you made on the opposite side of the deck/hull its no big deal.   But this template will give you a really good start and can be rested atop the wales.
 

 
I drilled with a small drill bit first and again made the holes larger using the #47 bit.   I cleaned them up a bit and darkened them with a soft pencil.  Once again...no need to drill all the way through and hope you meet the same scupper hole you drilled on the inboard side.  Fake it ...till you make it .....I always say.   I drilled part way through once again.   Make sure you really darken them inside the holes nicely and completely.
 

Dont add the waterway on the fcastle deck yet.   I think it best to drill the hawse holes first.   I will be doing that next me thinks.
 

I started on the Stem assembly next. Everything fit well. Took a LOT of sanding and tapering to get Mercury in proper position.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

Next I painted the figurehead. I plan on painting and staining my model as I always do. 

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

Looks awesome! Is there a reason you do not fit, pre-paint and then install?

Looks awesome! Is there a reason you do not fit, pre-paint and then install?

Looks awesome! Is there a reason you do not fit, pre-paint and then install?

Started assembling frames next. Some of the lasered identifiers are hard to read for me. Took them off the trees one at a time.  Make SURE you check identifiers and orientation prior to assembly. Check the PLANS, make sure the ARROW in the jig faces forward. I assembled five frames and dry mounted them on the keel. Some are REALLY tight and I was afraid of issues so I sanded the char off. Fit nice after that. The jig is ingenious.

I started on the Stem assembly next. Everything fit well. Took a LOT of sanding and tapering to get Mercury in proper position.

I have reached another small milestone.  All of the below deck fittings and cabins are completed.  The gun deck is fully framed as well.   Next up I will start planking the inboard bulwarks.   That should make a huge difference.  
 
I hope to see many of you this weekend at the New London show.   It should be a very enjoyable weekend.   I am looking forward to it.
 







 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Chuck

Thanks guys….
 
Yes I have mailed a few.  It depends on the country.  Some countries wont allow first class mail or the cheapest option and only allow priority mail.   It weighs about 9 pounds give or take.
 
I just shipped one to Italy for $99 US shipping.
 
I sent others which were around $85
 
So far the most expensive was $149 but I charge $99 usually so I take the hit if its more.
 
So probably around $99
 
 

Next I painted the figurehead. I plan on painting and staining my model as I always do. 

Just a quick update.  It might not look like a lot of work was done since my last post but you would be surprised how involved the deck beams can be.
 
With the cabins on the fore lower platform completed,  you can start adding deck beams above them.  No reason to wait until everything is built below deck to do so.  In fact, waiting to do it all at one time wont be very enjoyable.  Doing it this way breaks up the task a bit.
 
This kit will be very simplified compared to the books.  Because we will be planking the gun deck in the "classic" contemporary model style,  there is absolutely no need to make and add the hanging and lodging knees.   In fact, this would up the difficulty factor by about ten.   So we will just be adding the deck beams with all of the carlings and ledges.  You can however follow the Seawatch books and scratch build the knees should you really want the total experience.
 
 
The photo below has a lot going on that was completed.
 

First, The first four deck beams were glued into position...
 
Then the carlings were added between them as shown on the plans.  The carling are cut to length using 3/16 x 5/32 strips.   
 
Lastly you may notice that the after most beams have a column under them at the center.   These are just 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length.  The corners are chamfered as shown on the plans.
 
With the first four beams added you can now add the ledges.   These are the thinner "partial beams" that extend from the carlings to the deck clamp.  They are laser cut for you with a special "leg" on the outboard ends.   This raises each ledge to the perfect height so it will be flush with the top of the gun deck beams.  So when you are cleaning the char off these...DONT sand the bottom or even the end with this "leg" on it.  Otherwise you wont have level ledges with your beams.    Hope that makes sense.
 
Now in that same photo above you can see the first few ledges (cleaned of laser char...no need to clean the bottom at all actually) resting in position.  All you have to do is cut the end that sits against the carling and glue it on position.
 
NOTE:  Now yes indeed...all of the carlings should be notched in the deck beams.   All of the ledges should be notched into the carlings.  But you know what...I am not going to do that.  And you dont have to either.  It simplifies things so much this way and those many mortices and notches are not so easy to make.  They will also mostly be completely covered up.   So you can decide.
 
 
Now this may all seem simple enough.  But finding the exact locations for these beams, carlings and ledges is super important.  Time and care must be taken to get their location correct....otherwise you will end up with hatches in the wrong  position and mast holes too!!  It could get ugly.
 
So use the plans.   If you have a second set printed.  Go ahead and cut them up.  You can see strategically placed cut outs on the template that allowed me to mark the locations of the carlings on the beams....and the ledges on the carlings.   This template also helped me position the deck beams properly which is the very first thing you need to do.  Finding you center line on those deck beams after they installed is also a huge help.  Gluing the parts in is easy enough...but the marking, measuring and planning takes time and patience.

 
Then its just a matter of cutting all of those ledges to length and gluing them in position.   There are a lot of them.  I believe 86 in total.   Note that these would also be down the center between the carlings and hatches also.  But once again they will be entirely covered up and its just a repetitive exercise that nobody will ever see.
 

To show you how the knees and other details like the ledges wont be seen...here is a look at this area with the deck planking cut and placed on the model as a test.  This shows what will be very close to the final appearance using the "classic contemporary model appearance".   But everyone can always deviate from that should they want to.