Jim Rogers

Yes!  With a flashlight whilst also swearing.  Now THAT would be an authentic scene.  

Darn, these Hollywood product placement deals are going to a whole new level! First it was fast food, soft drinks, and cars ... and now ship models! I'll bet Artesania is green with envy that they chose Syren and not Artesania as a subject. To make it extra realistic, you should tell Ed Harris to crawl around looking for a tiny part he dropped on the floor ... 

What is the name of the flick. I was a safety diver in Jaws 3D.

What is the name of the flick. I was a safety diver in Jaws 3D.

What is the name of the flick. I was a safety diver in Jaws 3D.

Finally finished up the stern details today.  At least up to the point I would like to do them for this chapter.
 
First up was to paint the top of the transom before adding the actual carvings.  I didnt have to paint all the way to the upper edge.  I didnt want a painted seam to show afterwards.  I also marked the lower areas so I knew where to stop the painting as well.  You cant tell in the photos but its not black at all.  Its a very muted brown black and even gray.   I didnt want it to be too stark a black.  I also dusted some blue on there as well.  So much for my photo skills, LOL.
 

The two figures (port and starboard) were removed as they wont be added till last in this series of steps.  Then the actual carved transom was glued into position.  Once again this was after some initial cleanup and staining to make it match the wood color.  Old masters gel stain (fruitwood) was used once again.
 

With the transom carving secure it was time to focus on the forward side of the carving.  Basically the thickness of the carved transom is thicker port and starboard.   Where it hangs over on both sides.  There is a little carved detail in the center of this as well which can be seen on the contemporary model.  My solution was to build up this area with two layers.  The first middle layer is laser cut in boxwood.   This layer was cleaned up of it laser char and then shaped a bit with some sandpaper and files.  The edges were rounded off and I just had some fun with it.  You can see my example being held in the clamp.  You guys can do as much as you like with this piece.  Photo is below.  Then the most forward layer will be glued on as well.   This is a resin casting.
 

When gluing them on you must finesse them a bit.  Meaning you may have to trim some of the hull molding etc.  You can fill any cracks or seams with wood filler and generally speaking try to blend them all together.  The photo below shows these two layers on the model.  They were glued to the forward side of the transom.
 

Next up was to add the columns.  This is pretty straight forward.   All of these pieces are laser cut for you.  The tops and bottoms of the columns are 1/16" thick.  They were cleaned of laser char and filed to suit.  Then glued on the transom.  The long fluted columns are thinner but laser cut as well.  The laser char sanded from these and the each column was sanded to length for a tight fit between the tops and bottoms we just added.  This takes a while to do but isnt difficult.  You may also notice some molding at the base of each window.  They are between the columns bases.   These are laser cut too.  Just remove the char and round off the top edge like a quarter round.  Then glue them in.
 

Lastly we can put those two standing figures back where they belong.  But before you do...there are tiny laser cut bases made for them.  These bases or the floor...rock...the ground...whatever you would like to call them need to be shaped.  They are shaped like a little step.  I did this rather than incorporate them into the casting.  Everybody's model is slightly different.  You can customize this base so your figure fits perfect on your model.   See the photo...
Just sand it free of char and file some bumps and grooves into it.  Mine are hardly noticeable in the photo but they are there.  Make it look like a stone or rock base.  Using this keeps the nice run of the molding that wraps around the stern while covering the seams between all those layers we created.   It covers up where the figures will stand while creating the correct angle for the figure to match the transom.  It will be hardly visible.   Shape yours to suit.

Here the figure is glued in place but not until after the tiny base was glued in position first.  You can see the figure stepping on the small rock carved base.  This pretty much finishes up the stern to the point where I want to be in this chapter.  Its for the most part complete except for some very small features we add much much later.  I think it came out rather nice considering this is a kit.   But my goal was of course not to make it look kit-like at all.
 


 


 
The contemporary model...
 

 

She is a real beauty Chuck. Can’t wait to get started.

She is a real beauty Chuck. Can’t wait to get started.

She is a real beauty Chuck. Can’t wait to get started.

She is a real beauty Chuck. Can’t wait to get started.

She is a real beauty Chuck. Can’t wait to get started.

Unfortunately when you are using the woods we use it becomes impossible to outsource.  That creates another huge problem.  Getting enough wood milled in Boxwood or Yellow Cedar is tough enough.  Having it shipped to supply another laser cutter is impossible.   The costs would increase by another 30 to 35%.  I Have gotten quotes for laser cutting and its ridiculous.   In fact I do outsource some laser cutting where I use plywood,  the Winnie bulkheads for example.  But the limited woods they carry are problematic unless I start using Basswood like every other manufacturer.    I may laser cut one Speedwell in Basswood just to see how it looks.   But I have to find someone willing to build it.   If it works I could have a dozen ready to go in no time at all!!!  But if someone is spending this money they dont want to use basswood.
 
If I were to use Basswood or any other wood not suitable for better ship models it would be an easy solution.  
 
I would be cutting more Speedwell parts right now if I had the milled wood on the shelf.  Logistics are awful.
 
But like I said…I wont limit the number of Speedwell kits but they will be slow in the making.   Getting regular shipments of 100's of milled yellow cedar sheets or Boxwood sheets is not an easy task.  And its super expensive.   I will always keep one or two of each chapter on the shelf.  Remember at the same time I am still laser cutting Winnie parts and Cheerful parts and a whole host of others.   Laser time is the easy part...getting material is another.
 
 
 
 

This is a water feature I did for the Morgan. This was in the Whaling Museum in Lahaina and got burnt up in the fire. A friend of mine built the model. The case was designed as a display and transport case.

I like that. Have looked at doing that base finish for one of my cases.

You could get some iron on veneer from https://www.veneersupplies.com. They have a great supply. Then get some inlays from https://www.inlays.com. Pretty easy fixes with a beautiful result.

Here is a couple ideas. First one is a knock down, very easy to transport and ship. Second one is maple and pauduck, 

This is a water feature I did for the Morgan. This was in the Whaling Museum in Lahaina and got burnt up in the fire. A friend of mine built the model. The case was designed as a display and transport case.

I like that. Have looked at doing that base finish for one of my cases.

This is a water feature I did for the Morgan. This was in the Whaling Museum in Lahaina and got burnt up in the fire. A friend of mine built the model. The case was designed as a display and transport case.

This is a water feature I did for the Morgan. This was in the Whaling Museum in Lahaina and got burnt up in the fire. A friend of mine built the model. The case was designed as a display and transport case.

I like that. Have looked at doing that base finish for one of my cases.

Here is a couple ideas. First one is a knock down, very easy to transport and ship. Second one is maple and pauduck, 

Here is a couple ideas. First one is a knock down, very easy to transport and ship. Second one is maple and pauduck, 

You could get some iron on veneer from https://www.veneersupplies.com. They have a great supply. Then get some inlays from https://www.inlays.com. Pretty easy fixes with a beautiful result.

Here is a couple ideas. First one is a knock down, very easy to transport and ship. Second one is maple and pauduck,