
king derelict
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Craig. Thanks for the kind comment and the helpful advice on weathering. I bought a set of artists oils but haven't tried them yet. Do you use them diluted or apply from the tube in very small dabs and wash with a thinner? Moving into some interesting stuff for me now but lois of fun too. Alan
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Moving forward after putting on the primer paint yesterday. The hull has been painted white and hopefully will be masked and the brown paint added. All other elements that have white were painted. The gun turrets, boats and deck fittings had the 507C sections painted and the non wooden decks had the 507A painted added. For me the big moment was peeling the masks off the main decks and adding the wooden decks. I was a bit nervous given the thinness of the wooden deck and the feeling that it would be a one shot effort but it went on quite well. The accuracy of the deck registering on the Flyhawk deck was outstanding. Even the smallest details lined up. I need to think about weathering the deck and experiment on the remains of the wooden sheet. Weathering in 1/700 bothers me a bit. It looks very easy to overdo it. I realised that the Flyhawk small parts sprues (searchlights, paravanes, AA guns etc) are stackable which is great for saving space on the table while the paint is drying. Thanks for looking in Alan
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That is beautiful work. Its almost a shame to paint it. Alan
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Not much to show today. Grey primer on grey plastic but it means I'm ready to start putting some colour onto the parts tomorrow. I had a frustrating morning prior to getting the primer on. The last item I wanted to do was to complete the antenna on the top of the foremast. It consists of two PE diamonds and I added the first last night. I cut out the second this morning and placed it in the first diamond. Nudged it into final position and it dropped out. It looked like it fell right onto the work surface but I couldn't find it. Two hours of looking everywhere on teh work desk , the floor a sweep with the dustbuster - nothing. I don't seem to have any PE that resembles the lost part so I made up a diamond out of 0.2 mm wire. It looks a bit untidy n the photo but in real life its only 1/8 inch high so I think with a bit of pant it will pass muster Alan
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I just received their Panzer Mk1 (early production) 1/72 kit today. It's a tiny gem. I'll start a build log in the appropriate folder as a placeholder and show off the unboxing. For a fairly cheap kit it is very only Alan
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Only a small update today mostly adding small details. At risk of being repetitive I am amazed by the detail on the basic Flyhawk plastic. The masts are fine enough that I don't think they need replacing. I added the PE to the foremast and left it at that. I think it is time to start the primer Alan
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Hi Craig Thanks for looking in. Your work sets a very high standard but I'm learning and i hope improving. Most of all I'm enjoying it. These Flyhawk deluxe kits are so well produced any frustration is of my own making. Your PE handling is giving me some great insights. Thanks Alan
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That is excellent work at such fine detail. It looks so accurately applied. I like the Gators Grip for the extra working time and because it dries with a bit of flexibility so a slight knock doesn't ping the PE off the plastic Alan
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Hi Popeye Many Thanks for looking in and the kind comment. The build log was an attempt to make me scrutinise and improve my efforts. The PE is a whole new world for me but I love how it dresses up a model. Just a set of railings on a ship lifts the model to a whole new level. I last built a kit in 1970 (Airfix 1/72 Harrier as I recall). Then you built what was available in the local shop (all Airfix) and painted with what they had (Humbrol). No aftermarket details; I remember it being exciting when they started stocking matt colours as well as gloss! A serious modeller was someone who knew to stretch melted sprue to add aerials etc. Revisiting the hobby now is amazing; seeing the range of subjects and scales available and what can be done to them; the range of finishes, aftermarket parts in resin and PE, 3D printing. It seems like every week I see something new I want to try or build. The internet provides amazing opportunities and this forum has such a great range of expertise and knowledge. Its a world away from building on teh kitchen table with the box top as the only reference material. Thanks to everyone for sharing the skills and knowledge Alan
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Thank you kindly OC. I used the smallest two of these drill bits. I bought them for general modelling use a while ago and found they break extremely easily but they were really good for drilling the holes for the brass barrels. I didn't use them in any sort of holder; the coloured collar was sufficient to rotate the drill bit and allowed me to use very gentle pressure and avoid the bit skating off the part. I'm sure there are more sensible ways but this seemed to give me the best control and least chanced of accidently drilling my finger Alan
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Thanks Mark You are correct. At the time of the camouflage scheme Penelope was under repair after running aground and under frequent air attacks so its unlikely she was all squared away for inspection. Actually I went back to look at correcting the alignment this morning and had to look hard to find it. The camera is a very exacting eye. those barrels are maybe 1/3 inch long total.
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Another first today. I made up the brass gun barrels for the first time. The six inch guns went quite well although it feels like a irrecoverable step cutting off the plastic barrels. The four inch guns were very fiddly. I nearly decided to go with the plastic barrels. The plastic is actually quite well detailed and not too fat for scale but I wanted to try to improve on this build. So ithought "Well I'll try one." In the end with a diversion to find and retrieve three barrels that somehow escaped I made all four. I see in the photo that I knocked one set of barrels out of alignment so that will now be fixed. I started the Seafox and it just needs the propeller and the floats. The PE rigging is overscale but I think its better than nothing and may look more subdued when painted
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Real life got in the way for most of the day but I did manage to complete the forward funnel and its walkways I also tackled one of the elements I was very nervous about, the catapult. In the end it was quite straightforward although a bit nerve wracking. I used the folding / bending tool from The Small Shop and that really made a huge difference in getting nice square folds. As a result everything fitted together nicely. The PE version is a big improvement over the plastic part Tomorrow I think its time to add the brass to the guns The painting is a bit of a way off but I'm starting to think about some elements of it. It was an ad hoc scheme and Im thinking that it is unlikely that the smaller deck equipment would have been painted. Some of that stuff had moving parts and I don't see matelots with six inch paint brushes slapping brown paint all over it. I don't think the deck railings would have been worth it either so I think I will see how they look in teh original grey and make some artistic judgment based on teh appearance. Thanks for looking and liking Alan Thanks for looking and the likes
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I just bought the USS Wasp and HMS Malaya books so many thanks for the link. I may get the Jupiter and Niaid books if these live up to expectations Alan
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if you can paint buttons on the Rifles you would walk all over a 1/700 Flyhawk kit. They are beautifully designed so everything fits and their PE integrates seamlessly
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Many thanks OC. I have bought some of the Flyhawk kits from China and they have generally shown up much earlier than advertised, maybe about a month. I've used a guy Yanworld who has always delivered early. I'm trying to work up to HMS Good or Prince of Wales
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I can see me using this a lot. Many Thanks
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The accumulation of brass continues. The bridge is about complete, the funnels are in progress and I worked up the courage to make the derrick. I am quite happy about how it came out. I still have the crane hook to add to complete it. The Flyhawk PE is very nice to work with. The fold lines are deep enough that the bends come out nice and clean although the downside is you don't get too many attempts before the part fails at the fold line. The fit with the plastic parts is good too. So far I'm thoroughly enjoying the kit. There are a lot of elements to work on. I need to start the brass guns and the Seafox. Thanks for the likes and support Alan
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Thanks Ken Yes I installed a pair of LED strips above the work table as well as a focussed desk light. I use a pair of 3.5 x magnifiers for most of the work.
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