
king derelict
Members-
Posts
2,754 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by king derelict
-
I was very happy this morning to remove the dust cover and check the resin and find it it glassy, tack free and hard. I removed the tape and cleaned up the rim that formed at the dam with a a sharp knife. I put the diorama to one side to fully cure (72 hours) before the next step but I couldn't resist seeing how HMS Penelope would look on the water It looks promising. I also checked the resin anchor chain against the foredeck and it may be a tad big (but the same size as the flat PE chain) so I think I will paint it and look at it again but it may well be useable Thanks for looking in. Alan
-
Thank you Ken. I was very nervous about the resin. It seemed like an opportunity to ruin the scene with few recoveries available. Alan
-
Thanks for the kind words OC. I'm really enjoying working on a new aspect of the hobby. I would like to make more dioramas but space is a major consideration.
-
The resin pour happened this morning. I mixed one batch which hardly covered the "sea" base so without thinking I mixed up another batch of the same size; I was nervous about letting the first batch start curing and create a visible interface. I also only had the one size mixing cups at hand and it seems that accuracy in measuring resin and hardener is critical. Once I had poured the second batch I realised I had overdone things and it was too deep. The "tide" line is submerged and the weight of the resin has caused the masking tape dam to bulge which might give me problems with the fit in the display case. I had a few minor leaks past the tape (again due to too much resin but thankfully I had put some scrap card underneath which caught it all. I should have planned the pour in a little more detail and had some smaller cups ready to do small batches if necessary. The learning process continues. On the positive side I like the resin. It is very low odour, it is glass clear and it did not entrain a lot of bubbles, The few that were present after pouring were seen off with a few passes of a mini butane torch. It is supposed to cure in 24 hours so it will be interesting to check tomorrow morning. Possibly because of the extra resin I seem to have go a very nice sense of depth and I really like the reflection of the mountains in the still fjord water. I was going to add some movement to the water surface but I am not so sure now. So the cats are banned from the area until this is fully tack free. Their long and light hairs get everywhere and I'm too proud of the resin surface to risk hairs or worse paw prints. Thanks for looking Alan
-
Thanks Craig. It will be interesting to see if resin supplants PE. The chain was probably no more expensive than a PE fret and the three dimensional look is much nicer. It takes away the PE skills needed and becomes paint and plonk in place but possibly the reality is somewhere in the middle. PE railings look great radar arrays and girders lend themselves to PE. weapons are maybe better in resin. The PE Oerlikons on Kujawiak are fiddly in the extreme and when done you still have a barrel that is noticeably flat instead of round. Alan
-
Every time I end up on the floor looking for a lost part I find one or two brass 6 inch gun barrels. I'm not aware I've lost any. I think there is something under the bench making them. Id really like some 4 inch QF barrels for my destroyers though. Alan
- 127 replies
-
- Akitsushima
- Pit Road
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Meanwhile, somewhere in Norway. I added a few more white highlights and stippled white around the margins of the bare patches to blend things together. I think it looks reasonable now, I painted gloss medium into the waterfall gully and dry brushed some more on the ridges to give a bit of sparkle to the snow and ice. Its not very obvious in the photos but I like the effect in most lighting. I laid some strips of clear silicone caulk onto a bit of scrap acrylic and spread and shaped it a bit with a cocktail stick and let it dry then peeled it off Selected pieces were then laid into the gully with white glue to build up the frozen waterfall. Close up it looks quite nice but it is not as noticeable as i thought it might be at a distance. I then taped the base with masking tape to form a dam ready for the big moment - the resin pour. The bottom of the masking tape was sealed with white glue. Tomorrow is big day! On other fronts I received the YX resin 1/700 anchor chain and compared it with the PE supplied with the kit. The size is very similar so I'll look at it on the model and if it doesn't overpower the foredeck I may end up using it. Thanks for looking Alan
-
Thanks Jack I've made a note of this for the next diorama. Woodland Scenics look like a great resource for diorama building. I've been watching Youtubes from Luke Towan (railroader in Australia) and High Eye Workshop in the UK and they do amazing work and make it look extremely easy. I have borrowed / adapted some of their ideas although I find it tougher to get the results than I expected in some cases. Thanks again Alan
-
Many Thanks Craig. Its a bit trial and error but its a fun change from breath holding PE manipulation. I got the corner clamps from Amazon and they have been used quite a bit without any problems. They work well with material 3/16 inch or thicker, below that they tend to slip although I have packed the jaws out to compensation on 1/8 inch sheets. These are the chaps Angle Clamps, 4PCS Right Angle Fixing Clip, Multi-function woodworking right angle clamp Adjustable Swing Corner Clamp, Corner Clip Fixer for Welding, Wood-Working, Drilling, Making Cabinets (A) - - Amazon.com There are other similar brands too. I have been very happy with TAP; their cutting is accurate and their delivery is fast. They have a good range of other acrylic products like rods, cylinders and shapes. I've used them quite a lot in recent years. Hope this helps Alan
-
My home made case is made of 3/16" sheet 6" x 1 2" x 2 0" and worked out at about $ 60. It's probably cheaper if you buy the uncut sheets and cut them yourself. I'm not good enough at cutting accurately to go that route. You have to get a very clean square edge to the cuts so the acrylic cement gets drawn into the joint and welds it together. TAP prices are reasonable enough that I would rather leave the cutting to them. Alan
-
Don't panic Craig. I just put an order on EBay so I'm going to be behind OC but I'm in no danger of running out of kits before it arrives. I read on a site it was due to release on June 30th but then how quickly they ship I don't know. Alan
-
I continued refining the hillsides today. I dry brushed white highlights back into the snow and added snow back into the bare areas and stippled white into the edges to try to reflect melting snow. I'm still not happy with it but it is looking better and I think I'm going in the right direction. I'm toying with adding a small amount of gloss medium in places to look like ice or water. I'm working on ideas for the frozen waterfall too.
-
I just got a package from Hong Kong this afternoon. Four little cases of the YX 1/700 chain. I was expecting some acupuncture needles for moving glue around and opened the bag to find four little plastic cases with apparently nothing in them. A closer look revealed the tiny detailed chain. It is amazing. I had almost written off the order because I had no emails confirming teh order or confirming shipment but here it is in less than two weeks. Looks great and they will be getting more business especially as shipping was entirely reasonable. If the chain is too big for the Penelope it might work for Prince of Wales - and I just got on the Hood bandwaggon and ordered the Flyhawk deluxe kit. Thanks Alan
-
Hi Mike Thank you for the very kind words. I learning a lot as I go along. I started 1/700 as a trial before investing in 1/350 scale but I really like the 1/700 kits and seem to generally be working down in the destroyer end into the bargain; Penelope is the biggest subject to date. I really like the Flyhawk kits especially the deluxe ones which just need a wooden deck and are then fully set up. I have a number of Flyhawk kits on the shelf and a resin kit from Niko which looks quite good. I agree about the diversity of subject matter. I really like that seaplane tender that Craig (CDQ) recently completed. I may try to copy that but then the shelf of future kits just keeps growing. The diorama is fun but is very much experimental. So far so good though. Your tool tips and their sources have been very helpful in improving my PE so thank you very much for that Alan
-
Thank You OC. I'm kind of finding my way here but overall I am quite pleased with it so far. More tweaking to come. Alan
-
The gesso was dry this morning so I started adding the base colours for the mountain sides and the sea. Im using craft acrylics and they are going onto the gesso well. After painting on the bare earth and the rock faces I felt the white snow didn't look like snow; it looked like an unfinished diorama. So I mixed a very pale blue and a dilute wash and started working it into the white. While the paint was drying I made up the display case. I haven't found a cost effective case source so I have been buying the acrylic sheets from TAP Plastics who custom cut the sheets at a reasonable cost and have a very fast cutting and delivery time. Mine was shipped the day after I ordered it. They have a great range of thicknesses and colours too. The acrylic cement has the viscosity of water and they recommend using a syringe to run it down the joints and it will wick into the joint by capillary action. I find there is a risk of drops marring the panels so I use a brush. It takes longer but I have more control. The corner vices are indispensable. The finished product is basic but they work well for me. The dimensions allow them to be stacked and they fit in the deep shelves of my bookcases. I gave it a trial fit over the diorama and it fits nicely So back to the dry diorama. I thought the snow wash was too blue so I added a very dilute black wash which gave a result I liked. I dry brushed black into the channel of the waterfall and the cliff faces. I darkened the base colour of the barren snow free areas and then dry brushed a lighter colour over them. I'm still not happy with those area and will try some more washes. At 1/700 scale I am a bit nervous of adding textures than would rapidly get out of scale. I plan to dry brush some white back over the snow and in patches on the bare areas and the cliff face. I think a few iterations may be necessary before it looks good. Its fun but its a lot harder than I expected. I have a lot to learn from the masters. Thanks for looking in Alan
-
This fascinates me. 3D printing and Flower class corvettes. It combines two areas in interested in. I've been contemplating going down the 3D print rabbit hole and this may be the push I need. I've wanted to build a corvette too so I'll be following closely. Alan
- 321 replies
-
- Finished
- Flower-class
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Today I thought the Sculptamold felt completely dry so I brushed on a layer of white gesso to seal the Sculptamold and improve the surface finish. The web is varied in opinion for the drying time of gesso so I'll review in twenty-four hours. In the meantime the acrylic sheets for the display case have arrived so that will be started. Thanks Alan
-
Its been a paint-and-wait day on all fronts. I sprayed the 507A dark grey paint onto the decks and now will wait twenty-four hours for the paint to harden before starting the masking marathon Thanks Alan
-
I finished adding the last elements of the PE to the hull. One of the drivers hatch handles disappeared while I was cutting it from the fret and I can't find it so a scratch one was made from 0.2 mm brass wire. I have sprayed grey primer onto the assemblies and will now wait twenty-four hours before starting the paint scheme. Thanks Alan
About us
Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
SSL Secured
Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured
NRG Mailing Address
Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917
Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)
Helpful Links
About the NRG
If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.
The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.
The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.