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Bill Gormley

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  1. It's been months since my last update, but I'm still chugging along with my build (and enjoying it immensely). I've been watching other Syren builds in the meantime in the hopes of avoiding pitfalls. Unfortunately, I'm a zero when it comes to woodworking, so every little thing becomes a side research project. Going back to my previous update, I needed to correct the frames on one side where I had drastically over faired them. I finished that task and went on to frame the ports and sweeps and sand both sides to an equal degree. Per the instructions, I then added the stern and supporting pi
  2. I'm back with the latest edition of the world's slowest build log. At this point I have faired the sills and lintels and cut (but not attached) the 'green' framing for the port side. As I was doing this I realized I created a problem for myself. As you can see in the photo below, I sanded some of the frames far too much. Not sure how I did this without noticing or breaking the frame, but I noticed it in time not to create the problem on the starboard side. Do I need to find a way to fill in the convex area circled in red to strengthen and restore the tumblehome shape? If so, what would b
  3. Thanks everyone for the input and tips above. I didn't respond at the time 2-4 weeks ago, but it helped me keep moving. Very much appreciate the help. Since my last post I have made a couple trips to Home Depot for stain. I wasn't happy with how the lower deck turned out using straight Minwax Golden Oak, so I mocked up a small section of planks and tried again using Minwax Pre-Stain Conditioner followed by a 3:1 mix of Minwax Natural and Golden Oak. The stain has a much more uniform appearance and the lighter color looks a lot better (at least to my eyes).
  4. What beautiful work - I could look at the photos of the hull all day. I'm seriously challenged when it comes to tying knots so I'm eager to see what (and how) you do.
  5. Minimal update here ... but some progress. I laid the planks for the lower deck and stained them Minwax Golden Oak. I'm not happy with the look compared to the reference photo in the instruction manual (see below). The color isn't in the same zip code and the stain penetrated very unevenly. Any thoughts or suggestions? I did not use the Minwax Pre-Stain Conditioner I mentioned in my previous post, so I may conduct a quick experiment to see if it makes a difference. Is it possible the wood in the instruction manual is a difference species than what is included in the kit? Sepa
  6. Patrick and Mr. Walrus - Thank you both for the step-by-step guidance. I'll give the interior deck a go tomorrow and post progress pictures when I can. I'm trying to absorb as much as I can from all the build logs on this site, but it's like drinking from a fire hose. I climbed the same learning curve on the plastic modeling side too so I understand it's par for the course, but I feel like I could read forever. I have to keep reminding myself to stop stalling, get in the basement, and make some progress. A question about staining planks before I do that. Would you (or others f
  7. Well, it's been over a month since my last update ... I knew this would be slow going but I'm surprising even myself. It's been great fun so far and that's the point, right? I've been pleasantly surprised by how forgiving wood is as a working material. Sanding can get tedious but I like how much control you have if you take your time. Working with brass and photo etched parts and super glue in the plastic model world could get nerve wracking. Anyway, just a couple progress photos below. Major progress points are that I have created a basic building board, faired the bulkhead
  8. Thanks for the clear responses, Patrick! I'm going to have many more to come, I'm sure. Below a few progress photos. Apologies for the poor quality ... I should have changed the lens. Q1 - I'm at the point where I need to bevel the bulkheads. The instructions say to bevel the outer edge almost but not exactly to the dashed line. I'm clear on that. They also say to bevel the inside of the bulkhead and to keep the angle consistent. Can I confirm the red arrow is pointing to the correct area to bevel (with the blue dots highlighting the other three corners)? Also, i
  9. Hi Jamie - Nice start. I'll be following along as I recently started Syren as well. Good idea to work on the ship's boat a project within a project. I have been scratching my head a bit as I glue and clamp something and then have to wait 24 hours. Very different from the plastic models I'm used to where you can keep going.
  10. Thanks for all the input so far. I have managed to attach the rabbet strip, carve the rabbet, taper the stem knee, test fit the figurehead, and glue and clamp the stem knee to the bulkhead former. It took quite a while to taper the stem knee and get the figurehead to fit but I have thoroughly enjoyed the work thus far. Below are a few progress photos with circles where I have questions. Hopefully they post in order ... Q1 - A lot of build logs show an orange color or substance where I have circled. Any idea what that is? Also, should the bearding line still be vi
  11. Thank you all for helping me push this thing out to sea. Patrick and WalrusGuy (should I call you that?), I've been eagerly catching up on both your builds. Really nice work, and motivational to see what can emerge from the pile of wood on my table. One question for the group - should I try to find a long, flat plastic container for the wood? I wouldn't characterize the basement where I am working as overly damp, but still I wonder whether the wood will warp over time.
  12. I'd welcome you to MSW but I'm brand new around here too. Good luck on your build. I'm glad you started a build log and will be following as I get my own Syren underway.
  13. Hi everyone. Long time modeler but first time wooden ship builder here. I have waited patiently to finish two projects - IJN Yamato and USS New Jersey, both in 1/350 scale - before starting this kit. Now they are done it is time to start on Syren. I can't hope to match the beautiful renditions of Syren created by others here, but I do hope to learn from them. By way of background, I have been making plastic models from kits for the past 10-12 years. I started with 1/35 scale armor, dabbled in 1/48 scale aircraft, and then gravitated to 1/350 scale ships. Along the way I acqui
  14. The timing for me to stumble across this thread is perfect. I'm a newbie to MSW although not to modeling in general. I've been on the plastic side of the hobby for the better part of a decade and just finished a two-plus year build of the Japanese battleship Yamato. After a few months off it's time for me to select my next project. I want it to be a wood ship and I have two options: La Confiance (Constructo Modelismo) or Syren (Model Shipways). The former is an orphan kit I rescued from my father's basement years ago. It's a solid hull French fishing trawler by a company I haven't be
  15. I have the Pontos set for the USS New Jersey so I know exactly what you mean. The instructions look pretty good but you do hear complaints from time to time that they are insufficient. I just finished Tamiya's new Yamato kit using the Pontos wood deck plus Tamiya's AM railings, degaussing cable, and 18" guns. I have never drilled so many holes in my life. Took me a couple years but after finishing and taking a break I'm ready for my first wood project. Yikes.
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