Derek C

G.L. You do fine work ,thanks for the detailed log and thanks for getting me straight on my beams and carlings  
Derek

I layed down the planking up to where my lower deck will be placed . I used my soldering iron to blacken up all sides of the planks and then glued them down . I then marked out where I wanted my butt joints and nail holes and used my iron again to mark them out. I then rubbed it with 220 grit then 1000 grit paper and rubbed on a coat of clear poly.
This is how she is looking ,

 
 


 
She is coming together slowly but surely ,I believe I will start on the lower  deck tomorrow .
 Thanks for checking in 
Derek

I was moving right along today sanding the frames with 80 grit to get close to the final shape I only had a couple more to go when I decided to get a refill on my coffee.stood up ,grabbed my cup and slung #5 frame across the room . Apparently it had hooked the cup 🤨.
 
so to fix it .I drilled holes in the center of each of the frame pieces,using a #72 bit.

 
i then cut two pieces of wire 3/4 of a inch in length ,and inserted them with glue into the holes of one piece then filled holes of other pieces with glue.
 
then in I assembled the pieces and set on a flat surface to dry.

 
tomorrow I will sand and see if it will hold up or if i need to cut and assemble a new frame.i feel pretty confident in the repair.
 
Here is a pic of the ones that are ready to get rubbed with 220 grit paper before assembly begins .
 
i will post a pic of the repaired frame tomorrow to show how it came out whether it’s good, bad, or ugly lol
Thanks for looking in .👋🏻
 
Derek

Happy Thanksgiving fellow MSW Members 
Just a little update on my progress. I am still gluing frames together as I sit here smelling all the good things cooking in the kitchen . I had planned on finishing the gluing today but I fear once I eat the gluing will stop and the napping will proceed.

 
Thanks for looking in.
Derek

Here it is all glued up tight , you can see the nuts in there new home .I will use these to mount the keel to the build board ,and later to mount to the base .

I decided to put in the nuts to mount the keel assembly to my build board . 
 
first I ground down two sides of the nuts,using my dermal
 
Then I clamp the false keel and keel together in the vise and drilled through the false keel , and approximately half way into the keel  .

 
using a 11 blade and files I cut out the recessed notch in the keel for the nuts to fit in flush 
 

 
I then added glue to the keel and applied the false keel to the keel covering the recessed nuts I used a couple of screws to assure alignment and clamped it all together to dry.

 
thanks for for looking in 
Derek

Now that the holidays are over , here is where I’m at on my build . 
I decided to scrap those deck beams and make new ones , after G.L. got me back on track .
 
then s started cutting the and dry fitting the other pieces for the lower deck 


 
Thats where I’m at so far . I have quite a bit more pieces to install, but with the holiday season moving on I should have a bit more time to dedicate to my build.
 
Thanks for looking,and hope you have a happy and prosperous New Year.
 
Derek
 

Bulwarks looking good Tom.
 
Getting a little ahead but based on your decisions and while I'm thinking of it. If you glue your structures to the deck, don't forget the centerline slope (can't recall the nautical term for that). Your deck will slope from the centerline down and out to the waterway. The bottom of your structures need to account for that otherwise they will rock like a see-saw. They will be sitting right on the fulcrum.

Mike, 
I appreciate all of the helpful words, Thank you!
You have basically given me direction about going forward. I thought about things I haven't even considered yet.
Some things I can easily answer. Example, the deck furniture will most likely just go on top of the decking. With my limited experience, I feel that will give this learner a better chance at a respectable looking deck. I do think I wont lay the deck down until I plank the hull. Like you said, just being able to hold the hull by the ribs tells me to do the deck later, I know exactly what you mean.
In the manual it mentions that if you do this approach, reduce the height of the furniture. That I shall.
Plus, with the deck in, and while doing the hull planking, I can see the deck taking a lot of dings that will really show when stained. 
 
Other things, I'll address as I approach that part of the build. 
 
 
As for the build, I think its time for an update!
With the holidays winding down, I can finally get a few hours in the shipyard.
Still just methodically planking the gunports.
While planking the outside, I started laying a 1/16 thick stringer just under the deck on the inside.
All planks under these will be 3/64 wide down do the waterways.
 

 
These will get a good sanding and should have a better "flow" in relation to the curve of the ship.
 

 
 
Love these little clips. 
Instant kick stand!
 

 
Below is my first "ceiled" bulwark. Hope that's the correct term!?
With some sanding, and repetition, they should look better. 
 

 
Each piece is cut one at a time. No two are alike.
Measure, cut, shape/sand, glue in place, repeat.
 

 
Got 4 bulwarks planked.
Its slow, but I'm getting there.
 

 

 
She's coming together.
Happy New Years MSW!
 
Tom E
 

Happy new year, everyone! While I wasn't able to make quite as much progress as I was hoping, the Revenue Cutter is still starting to look more like a ship now. I didn't do a good job of taking photos along the way as I got on a good roll but I'll walk through what happened with the photos I have.
 
The first step was trimming the lower deadeyes to match the plans (and not spill over into the copper section of the hull) and assembling the pintles and gudgeons. These were painted black and attached to the hull.

I did have an issue with the alignment on the rudder getting all three pintles/gudgeons flush with the angle of the stern post and the pre-drilled hole in the deck. This is likely driven by the decisions I made earlier on but I decided the best course of action was to break the highest one so that the more visible lower two were good to go. I'll try and force the two pieces a little closer together later on but just leaving it as in the photo for now.

I also had to trim the length of the tiller prior to installing to fit within the space leading up to the cabin. This is because the hole for the rudder on the plans is situated much further back than what was pre-drilled into the hull and the deck.

I then stained and shaped the toe rails with hot water and rather than taping them to the hull, I used the cutout from the deck so that I didn't have to worry about the tape ruining any of the hull painting.

It worked really well. I then attached the toe rails to the deck and that went well. I left a gap at the bow to ensure space for the bowsprit. I may have left this a little wider than necessary but once the bulwark piece is added, it probably won't be noticeable. If it keeps bugging me, I've saved the scrap from the stained wood and I could extended it slightly at that time.

I've also painted and installed the forward hatches and the carronade track. While one direction fit perfectly within the printed template on the deck, the other direction wasn't perfect. I decided to have the slight discrepancy be on the fore/aft portion instead of the sides as the carronade base may cover it up for those looking at a quicker glance.

I'm working through priming and painting all of the blocks and between coats will be starting to create all of the stanchions for the life rail.

Now that the holidays are over , here is where I’m at on my build . 
I decided to scrap those deck beams and make new ones , after G.L. got me back on track .
 
then s started cutting the and dry fitting the other pieces for the lower deck 


 
Thats where I’m at so far . I have quite a bit more pieces to install, but with the holiday season moving on I should have a bit more time to dedicate to my build.
 
Thanks for looking,and hope you have a happy and prosperous New Year.
 
Derek
 

Now that the holidays are over , here is where I’m at on my build . 
I decided to scrap those deck beams and make new ones , after G.L. got me back on track .
 
then s started cutting the and dry fitting the other pieces for the lower deck 


 
Thats where I’m at so far . I have quite a bit more pieces to install, but with the holiday season moving on I should have a bit more time to dedicate to my build.
 
Thanks for looking,and hope you have a happy and prosperous New Year.
 
Derek
 

Now that the holidays are over , here is where I’m at on my build . 
I decided to scrap those deck beams and make new ones , after G.L. got me back on track .
 
then s started cutting the and dry fitting the other pieces for the lower deck 


 
Thats where I’m at so far . I have quite a bit more pieces to install, but with the holiday season moving on I should have a bit more time to dedicate to my build.
 
Thanks for looking,and hope you have a happy and prosperous New Year.
 
Derek
 

Mike, 
Thru out the entire build I've been using both wood glue and CA.
The planks have been glued in almost entirely with CA.
 
If CA does the trick, that saves me the whole step of soaking and bending.
I'll try it this weekend.
Sounds like I was over thinking it.
 
Tom E 

Tom - I wouldn't worry about bending the bow planks too much. Yes they will wrap around the frame. They will also need a slight twist but you should be able to do that as you glue them. You shouldn't have to do that beforehand.
 
I don't recall if you mentioned how you are gluing the planks or what glue(s) you are using. In those areas a dot of CA on a frame can hold the twist in the stick until white glue dries. Kind of like a nail. Basswood is easy to work with for tasks like that. The nice thing about CA is it dries quick so you can move on to the next plank, even while the white glue is drying. If you use just white glue and a clamp you may have to wait a while before continuing so that the glue can set. Of course if you don't like using CA then none of the above matters

The reason I brought it up is you have to paint some very thin strips around the ports. To make it worse the colors you will use have a high contrast so ANY little overage or spot really stands out.
 
I noted to a friend here that the masking (for just one side) is about 90 minutes of work and the painting is about 5 minutes. After a coat or two you'll tear it all off and likely have to mask the painted part so you can paint the rest. Another 90 minutes.
 
When you do mask, be sure to seal the tape edges up with some clear paint. It'll keep the real paint from wicking up under the tape.
 
Tamiya (maybe others) makes some good tape in several different widths. Get some really thin - I think it's 1/8" - some medium and some wide.

I'm sold on the purple filler. I'll definitely pick some up. 
Sounds like something Home Depot might have, or good ol' Amazon.
 
As towards how to paint the bulwarks...sheesh, I haven't even given it one thought at all.
To be honest, never thought I would get that far. 
 
Since I re-started modeling, I've been a "by hand" painter my entire time.
Really want to upgrade that to an airbrush.
Been doing some research and I know I want a Dual Action. 
As towards compressors I am oblivious, still researching those. 
Paasche (spelling?) seems to be a common name.
 
I've been watching a Bismarck build (SeymoreButts) and his paint work is fascinating.
Sounds like he will only use an airbrush, nothing else, and his work backs that up. Great results.
 
I figure I'll invest in one when I get my tax return.
 
Tom E
 

I got the deck beams clean and true then soaked them in hot water, for approximately a hour . Then I used a piece of 1/4 inch board under the center of the beams and clamped them down .

I decided to dry them quickly with my Dewalt heat gun , 
 

 

Once they dried I cut out the template for the beams to know where my notches needed to be ,and then glued them .

 

Then I broke out my files and started cutting in the notches .
 
Here they are dry fitted in place .
 



 
thanks fir looking in !

Derek
 
 

 

I am building this now , thanks for the posts your log has been very helpful and your cross section is beautiful 
Derek

Thanks for the inquiries G.L.
I cut the keel ,false keel 3/16 shorter to better show how the frames set in place . And the notches cut all the way through the main deck beam is purely a oversight. I did not realize that the Carlings where thinner. Guess I will have to try to repair or toss them and start over . I try to follow the plans a bit ahead of what I’m working on but for some reason I couldn’t find info on the thickness of the carlings or I overlooked them . Thanks for bringing that to my attention.
Derek

I got the deck beams clean and true then soaked them in hot water, for approximately a hour . Then I used a piece of 1/4 inch board under the center of the beams and clamped them down .

I decided to dry them quickly with my Dewalt heat gun , 
 

 

Once they dried I cut out the template for the beams to know where my notches needed to be ,and then glued them .

 

Then I broke out my files and started cutting in the notches .
 
Here they are dry fitted in place .
 



 
thanks fir looking in !

Derek
 
 

 

Thanks for the inquiries G.L.
I cut the keel ,false keel 3/16 shorter to better show how the frames set in place . And the notches cut all the way through the main deck beam is purely a oversight. I did not realize that the Carlings where thinner. Guess I will have to try to repair or toss them and start over . I try to follow the plans a bit ahead of what I’m working on but for some reason I couldn’t find info on the thickness of the carlings or I overlooked them . Thanks for bringing that to my attention.
Derek

I got the deck beams clean and true then soaked them in hot water, for approximately a hour . Then I used a piece of 1/4 inch board under the center of the beams and clamped them down .

I decided to dry them quickly with my Dewalt heat gun , 
 

 

Once they dried I cut out the template for the beams to know where my notches needed to be ,and then glued them .

 

Then I broke out my files and started cutting in the notches .
 
Here they are dry fitted in place .
 



 
thanks fir looking in !

Derek
 
 

 

You Rock MrBlueJacket,
i will definitely purchase from you guys as I can see customer service is top notch.
 

I got the deck beams clean and true then soaked them in hot water, for approximately a hour . Then I used a piece of 1/4 inch board under the center of the beams and clamped them down .

I decided to dry them quickly with my Dewalt heat gun , 
 

 

Once they dried I cut out the template for the beams to know where my notches needed to be ,and then glued them .

 

Then I broke out my files and started cutting in the notches .
 
Here they are dry fitted in place .
 



 
thanks fir looking in !

Derek