Derek C

Finished planking the lower hull a few minutes ago! Some sanding to do but overall I'm happy with it. Now I will set her back right side up and continue the upward planking. Plus side is this is the easier planking as it is mostly straight runs with very little if any to bend. More to follow soon!

I made the rudder today, I used a spare I had from the kit version of this boat as a template I started by tracing the template then sanding and filing until I got it to match
 
Then I mounted the rudder and got the stays rigged 

 
next I will rig the boom and gaff and start to mock up the sails. I have read that there are a couple different rigging plans for the sails   One for a short gaff and one for the gaff in the plans I used for this build. I will do a bit more research on this before I commit to either way.not that I have kept the build period correct using the colored rigging on the stays. 

I made the rudder today, I used a spare I had from the kit version of this boat as a template I started by tracing the template then sanding and filing until I got it to match
 
Then I mounted the rudder and got the stays rigged 

 
next I will rig the boom and gaff and start to mock up the sails. I have read that there are a couple different rigging plans for the sails   One for a short gaff and one for the gaff in the plans I used for this build. I will do a bit more research on this before I commit to either way.not that I have kept the build period correct using the colored rigging on the stays. 

Lol Tom
Dont you hate that feeling , but what ever pops up can be overcome with a bit of thought and planning . Looking good so far  

Morning, 
With the stern "in progress", thought I would start the waterways.
I ended up gluing the first two forward sections together, formed, and glued them in.
From the aft section I adjusted the length needed to complete the waterway into the stern.
 
I've heard stories of the waterways not being long enough. Had plenty of length to play with, not a problem.
It was harder to do in my head than the actual operation.
 
 

 
 
Installed the waterways.
Kept the bowsprit in mind for final placement.
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
The supplied waterways were plenty long enough.
Simple adjustments at the very end, and they slid right in.
 
Seems an easy part of the ship.
That make me feel uneasy!!!!!!!! 
Wonder what I've forgotten, overlooked, or missed?!?!?!
 
What ever it is, It'll pop up somewhere down the line!
 
 

 
Tom E 
 
 
 
 

I tried heat nada, got really frustrated put the deadeye on a board put the chain plate on top and just hit the damn thing with a hammer. Low and behold  it went on. Thought it was a fluke so I did it again with the same result. As  Torpedoman we where always told to get a bigger hammer and it is still true.

Next I added the individual bay framework of three bays across the hull. First I added the lateral support beams and then the shorter longitudinal beams. These form the deck support structure with each opening having coaming around them onto which the hatches were located. 
The short beams required notching into the cross beams to have a level surface.
 

 

 
I should mention that when adding the cross members care had to be taken to make sure they were level to each other as added.
 
 

 
Next I started adding the coaming using 1/32" x 1/16" doing the outboard ones first. I drew a pencil line aligning with the existing coaming on the bow section. I laid down 1/4" tape which provided an edge to "bump" the coaming against but also kept any excess glue from the finished surface.
 

 
Once the outboard coaming was set I added the lateral ones fist on one side of the frame surface and allowed the glue to set. This allowed using a spacer when adding the second side to the frame.

 
This shows the using of the spacer.
 

 
Once all the coaming was in place and the glue allowed to set after adding CA to all the outside perimeters the entire frame work was sanded smooth and even.
 

 
Next all the joint gaps were cut carefully with the tip of a #11 blade and filed with a needle file to make sure there was an even spacing. Here is an overall view showing all the bay openings.
 

 
Next will come the tedious process of cutting and fitting of all the hatches. The hatches will form the water tight decking for the containers stowed below them and the surface for the containers open above the deck. I may address some of the accommodation tower to break up the boredom of making over 50 hatches. 
 
 

Part 2 of the stern:
I removed the quarter stanchion supports.
 
 

 
 
 
Made some new supports and made them level with the top of the timbers and sanded down the corners.
 

 
 
Looking much better.
With continued sanding this will level out more.
All is starting to take shape and align......for the most part.
 
 

 
 
I don't think the curve shown below is true, the photo may be emphasizing it. 
In the flow of the ship, it works.
And with continued sanding it will come down. 
 
 
 
 

 
 
Tom E
 
 
 
 

Evening, 
I think I've made some good progress on the stern.
Below, you'll see I had to glue the Quarter Stanchions on top of the filler block. I think in the instructions and on other builds this was shaped and "hugged" the back of the filler block.
Couldn't do this. If I formed an hugged the filler block my stern it would have stuck out way to far. It just rubbed my craw for the longest time on what to do.
The stern would be about 2 inches thick, and seemed to wreck the scale. 
I decided to glue on top of the filler blocks. In doing this I could keep my quarter stanchions aligned to be used for planking.
The timbers are really just there as a guide for the where the open areas will be. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
A rear view with some supports installed.
 
 

 
 
 
The only bad thing about gluing the quarter stanchions on top of the filler blocks is it sent the curve, of what will be the main rail area, shooting straight up!
Need a ski lift to get the top of these things!!!!
 
 
 

 
 
 
Yikes!
I can fix this.
 
 

 
To be continued, 
Tom E
 

Planking looks real nice B.E. 👍🏻👍🏻

Planking looks real nice B.E. 👍🏻👍🏻

I cut , drilled and shaped all the 1/8 "blocks I need for the rigging today and for some reason building the blocks went so much better than the dead eyes.
 
I started of with a piece of wood cut to 1/8 " I then cut out pieces to  aapproximately the size I needed and drilled the holes for the rigging
 Then I sanded and filed until I got to the size and shape I was looking for . Then I filed in my grooves. I used a block I had left over from the ms kit to use as a example but now that I went back and saw chucks technique  in his log he put two holes in his and they look sweet so I will have to go back and fine tune  these 
I am getting close to doing rigging and making the sails I need to start thinking about acquiring something to make the sails out of . I need to go back and find the forum I got the sail and rigging plans from and see if they mentioned anything about the materials used . If anyone has any suggestions please speak up 
Thanks
Derek 

I made the dead eyes and chain plates, not the best but if I never have to make dead eyes this small again it will be to soon  I needed  9 total but I bet I made 20 and got 9 semi successful ones out of them . I started with a small square and cut out the general shape then finished them with sanding and filing.

 
Then I used a small brass nail " the same diameter of the nails I will use to mount them once there done  "with the head cut of to form the 1.5 " long piece of 28 gauge wire to make my chain plates .
 
I then twisted th wire until the desired length and added the dead eyes using a drop of glue to secure  them into the chain plates.

 
i also finished the gaff and applied the paint . I used white and black to accent pieces of the boat . Trying to leave as much of the natural teak showing . I plan on using a two part clear coat used on autos for the final finish 
 
i am pretty pleased with the way she is looking for my first scratch build model 
 

Evening, 
Started on the stern filler blocks. I used Onion Paper to transfer the dimensions to the blocks. 
I don't have a scroll or band saw, just yet - waiting on Admiral approval, so it was all done with a Dremel to remove the bulk of the material.
As seen below, we can easily see which was my first and second attempt.
As stumpy as Port side looks, its actually workable....well, will be.
I try to be very OCD when it comes to alignment. You can see the notched area, for the Arch board, on the bottom of the stern timbers aligns with the top of the filler blocks for the most part. Port side will need some love tho!
My build board has a slight left side lean, so its not helping the photo, but I think I have a way to make this work.
Since the timbers are there purely for reference, I'll plank around them. Some shims and creative sanding should help.   
 
It sounds good in my head.
 
 

 
The second attempt below, 
 

 
 
My first attempt below.
The blocks are still kinda thick by the bearding line, but that's by design.
They will get a good sanding when I start the overall fairing process.
Yes sir! I have a lot to learn and I love it!
 
 

 
Tom E
 
 
 

I cut , drilled and shaped all the 1/8 "blocks I need for the rigging today and for some reason building the blocks went so much better than the dead eyes.
 
I started of with a piece of wood cut to 1/8 " I then cut out pieces to  aapproximately the size I needed and drilled the holes for the rigging
 Then I sanded and filed until I got to the size and shape I was looking for . Then I filed in my grooves. I used a block I had left over from the ms kit to use as a example but now that I went back and saw chucks technique  in his log he put two holes in his and they look sweet so I will have to go back and fine tune  these 
I am getting close to doing rigging and making the sails I need to start thinking about acquiring something to make the sails out of . I need to go back and find the forum I got the sail and rigging plans from and see if they mentioned anything about the materials used . If anyone has any suggestions please speak up 
Thanks
Derek 

I cut , drilled and shaped all the 1/8 "blocks I need for the rigging today and for some reason building the blocks went so much better than the dead eyes.
 
I started of with a piece of wood cut to 1/8 " I then cut out pieces to  aapproximately the size I needed and drilled the holes for the rigging
 Then I sanded and filed until I got to the size and shape I was looking for . Then I filed in my grooves. I used a block I had left over from the ms kit to use as a example but now that I went back and saw chucks technique  in his log he put two holes in his and they look sweet so I will have to go back and fine tune  these 
I am getting close to doing rigging and making the sails I need to start thinking about acquiring something to make the sails out of . I need to go back and find the forum I got the sail and rigging plans from and see if they mentioned anything about the materials used . If anyone has any suggestions please speak up 
Thanks
Derek 

Tom,
 
Good progress.
 
The dreaded timbers.  All I can say is that I am a Browns Fan, (going back to the days when Bill was our coach), and I can honestly say that we are so bad, there is nothing the Browns could do to break one of my timbers.
 
Good luck going forward. I used the 2 diagrams of the filler blocks from the plan sheet, cut them out, transposed them on my basswood block, and rough cut it out with the band saw.  I then attached the blocks to the stern and did all of the rest with a file. It took me more than a few to get two right.
 
I also placed filler blocks inside the first couple of bulkheads, aft and bow. I used balsa wood. It was very helpful when it came to planking.  I strongly recommend it.
 
 

I cut , drilled and shaped all the 1/8 "blocks I need for the rigging today and for some reason building the blocks went so much better than the dead eyes.
 
I started of with a piece of wood cut to 1/8 " I then cut out pieces to  aapproximately the size I needed and drilled the holes for the rigging
 Then I sanded and filed until I got to the size and shape I was looking for . Then I filed in my grooves. I used a block I had left over from the ms kit to use as a example but now that I went back and saw chucks technique  in his log he put two holes in his and they look sweet so I will have to go back and fine tune  these 
I am getting close to doing rigging and making the sails I need to start thinking about acquiring something to make the sails out of . I need to go back and find the forum I got the sail and rigging plans from and see if they mentioned anything about the materials used . If anyone has any suggestions please speak up 
Thanks
Derek 

Finished up the inner walls and container racks and cut the solid hold walls and installed the hold wall in the bow section. One of the challenges I am having is that in the plans provided there are no view drawings, just a great deal of sub components. Evan, showed me where the solid hull walls were located. He goes back to sea on Tuesday and will be taking the ship into dry dock for some serious maintenance and updating and new paint. He will be sending me a bunch of photos to use.
 
Here are two pictures showing the hold walls.
 

 

 
 
I then sanded and fitted the bow section to the main hull just a little bit of fussing to get the three reference points to touch without any pressure to assure a good tight level fit.
 

 
Once fitted I glued the two sections together and once the glue set overnight I then sanded the hull section to match the hull. The bow section plank ends splayed a little which I had thought would happen since they were not glued to anything and required a little sanding to blend before adding the filler plank pieces.
 

 
Here I am adding the filler pieces and here is where cutting the beveled ends comes in handy for a tight fit on the hull section.
 

 
Now back to finishing filling the gap.
 
 

I made the dead eyes and chain plates, not the best but if I never have to make dead eyes this small again it will be to soon  I needed  9 total but I bet I made 20 and got 9 semi successful ones out of them . I started with a small square and cut out the general shape then finished them with sanding and filing.

 
Then I used a small brass nail " the same diameter of the nails I will use to mount them once there done  "with the head cut of to form the 1.5 " long piece of 28 gauge wire to make my chain plates .
 
I then twisted th wire until the desired length and added the dead eyes using a drop of glue to secure  them into the chain plates.

 
i also finished the gaff and applied the paint . I used white and black to accent pieces of the boat . Trying to leave as much of the natural teak showing . I plan on using a two part clear coat used on autos for the final finish 
 
i am pretty pleased with the way she is looking for my first scratch build model 
 

Looks real nice Bluto

hello every body
 
I am finished with my langoustier, name plates and lanterns are added, and put in display case

I slide the tube into a hole in a brass plate of the thickness needed for the slices. I then use a razor saw to cut off the protruding tube. This prevents distortion and makes for consistent slices. A few passes with a fine file over the surface cleans up the ring. If there are any protrusions in the hole, a small pointed burr will clean them out. I then take out the ring, place it on a brass block and (gently) flare each side with a centerpunch.

I made the dead eyes and chain plates, not the best but if I never have to make dead eyes this small again it will be to soon  I needed  9 total but I bet I made 20 and got 9 semi successful ones out of them . I started with a small square and cut out the general shape then finished them with sanding and filing.

 
Then I used a small brass nail " the same diameter of the nails I will use to mount them once there done  "with the head cut of to form the 1.5 " long piece of 28 gauge wire to make my chain plates .
 
I then twisted th wire until the desired length and added the dead eyes using a drop of glue to secure  them into the chain plates.

 
i also finished the gaff and applied the paint . I used white and black to accent pieces of the boat . Trying to leave as much of the natural teak showing . I plan on using a two part clear coat used on autos for the final finish 
 
i am pretty pleased with the way she is looking for my first scratch build model 
 

The first six bulkheads were shimmed port and starboard. This allowed the next plank from the garboard a better fit into the rabbet. The port side plank remains to be fitted. After this is complete the hull will be lined off.
 
Each plank fitted is a small victory.
Steve