bricklayer
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TAIG Mini Lathe Table Saw Conversion?
bricklayer replied to DerekMc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
May I suggest a 4th solution to convert your micro lathe into a "poor man`s table saw"? Place the motor below the lathe. Build a box whose inner cross section is slightly bigger than the diameter of the motor. Leave the left side of the box open. Put the motor into the box and the lathe on top of it. Then transverse clearance will be virtually unlimited. The only limit is the walls of your room . Alternatively you could obtain a big square steel tube where the motor fits in and put the lathe on top. 200x200x500mm? It`s just a guess because I don`t know the actual diameter of the motor and the length of the lathe`s bed. Michael -
FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic:
Atlantica by Wintergreen – Scale 1:30 - POF - sail training ketch - a smack of English heritage
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Atlantica by Wintergreen – Scale 1:30 - POF - sail training ketch - a smack of English heritage
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"how should I know if he really loves me" Hakan, certainly you love her. Not Whitney (it`s too late to do so) but Atlantica. You give her love and affection. She`s grateful for it. At least most of the time . Michael
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FlyingFish reacted to a post in a topic:
Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Arthur Goulart reacted to a post in a topic:
23ft Launch (1785) by Arthur Goulart
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Hercules by vaddoc - 1:64 - Steam Tugboat
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Arthur, doesn`t the free trial of Rhino expire 30 days after 1st installation on your computer? If you learned the basics and modeled the boat`s hull within 30 days, then I really admire your skills. Michael
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grsjax reacted to a post in a topic:
Fridericiana Alexandrina Navis, 1st century Roman Danube River boat
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dcicero reacted to a post in a topic:
Fridericiana Alexandrina Navis, 1st century Roman Danube River boat
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dcicero reacted to a post in a topic:
Fridericiana Alexandrina Navis, 1st century Roman Danube River boat
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Hi Vaddoc, did you modify the original design of the tug by adding three centerboards? Or is it daggerboards?
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druxey reacted to a post in a topic:
Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Hi Mark, I referred to your pic in #79. Just wondered why those woods differ in sheen though you presumably coated them with an equal number of coats. Your latest photo clearly shows that the displaced water at the bow remains low and doesn`t wet the deck. Not even the jib gets wet. Sailing that boat seems to be a veritable pleasure for the five piece crew.
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Mark, I live in northwest-Germany, close to Netherlands and Belgium. So the timber that I know is mostly of central or western european origin. Ash isn`t the hardest, but the toughest wood. Tool handles, treads of ladders and stairways, chairs and tables are made of ash. Probably all european wood species differ from endemic australian species, even though their names are the same. I like the concept of using wood from local or regional supply. When being coated with shellac the Queensland maple looks less weathered and more cabinet-like. How come that the shellac-coated mahogany edge-strip is high-gloss whereas the QM cover-strips are semi-gloss or matt? I didn`t mean to offend your yacht by calling it bulky. To me it just looks like a longitudinally compressed racing yacht. A lady that you gotta love. Michael
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Hi Mark, that Queensland maple looks good to me. It looks that good that I`d use it for all wooden parts that remain unpainted. That wood looks weathered somehow. If you used it for deck planking, then you could do without simulated weathering. Is it a hardwood? As hard as ash, beech or mahogany? Regarding the stain between the 1st and 2nd strip of the hatch cover: I`m afraid that you can`t make it disappear. Take it as a reminder: "I shouldn`t have applied half a bottle of liquid CA glue to a single strip of wood ". I love the bulky shape of the yacht and the proper workmanship. Michael
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Hi Keith, a knob? Kind of horizontally oriented bollard? Something to attach a cable or a rope to? Is it recessed? Does it have a cross bore? I haven`t seen the real thing so it`s just guesswork. Michael
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Costa Passenger Coach by yvesvidal - OcCre - 1/32
bricklayer replied to yvesvidal's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Is it the compartment for transportation of domestic animals? Then go and get some 1/32 chickens, pigs and sheep. I don`t see any first class compartment. Do first class passengers find accomodation on the roof of the car? Now let`s get serious. I like that topic in general and your build log in particular. Did you know that the track gauge in Spain, Portugal, Russia and some other countries is wider than in Central Europe and North America? You can take that into account if you want to build a true to scale miniature. Michael -
Keith, have you tried to score the ply longitudinally, yet? I`d score the back of the wood with a vee-shaped rotary engraving bit at equal increments, i.e 3 to 4 mm apart and .4 mm depth of cut. This bit might do the job: https://www.sorotec.de/shop/Cutting-Tools/sorotec-tools/Engraving-bits/V-Router-Bit-164/ The uppermost one is the most pointed one. Certainly you`ll find a UK-based seller for those engraving bits. You`ll obtain consistent cutting depth since you clamp the tool in the collet of your desktop mill. My only concern would be the spindle speed of this kind of mill. It might run at too low rpm to cut properly with those tiny router bits. Good luck. I know that you`ll succeed in any case. Michael
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Atlas craftsman lathe
bricklayer replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The advertisment in #12 says it all. Hole through spindle is 3/8" and taper in headstock and tailstock spindle is mt1. So these collets should fit in: https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/Morse-Taper-Collets/MT1-Collets-Imperial-Sizes To complete the setup we need a drawbar of sufficient lenght, a corresponding nut and a washer that`s slightly larger in diameter than the spindle bore. It should work like that. Don`t know if it actually does. Michael -
Hi Vaddoc, one more question. I`m sorry to bother you. Which version of Rhino 3d do you use? I ended upgrading Rhino at version 5. I don`t think that I need something more sophisticated
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Hello Vaddoc, what degree and what number of control points did you chose for the lines? Do the station lines have a higher point count and higher degree than the longitudinal lines (buttocks, waterlines and diagonals)? According to my experience a low degree and a low number of points results in the smoothest curves. But the deviation from the points given by the table of offsets is highest. If the number of control points equals degree of curve +1 then the curve doesn`t have any abrupt changes in curvature, thus the curvature graph is smooth. What`s your approach? Do you start with a high number of control point and rebuild the curves with less points if applicable or do you start with few control points and rebuild with more points if necessary? Either curves are fair or congruent with the curves of the lines plan or points of the table of offsets. We can`t have it all. So we have to compromise. I don`t envy you in re-engineering a ship`s hull. Michael
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The drawback of image files vs ASCII is the sometimes poor detection of characters. For instance "1B" translates into "18"
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Dan, I recently used Google translator to translate russian paper prints to german. I scanned page by page with a fladbed-scanner, saved the files as images (i think it was *.png). Then I uploaded the image files into Google translator and chose german as target language. The translator detects text components of the images and translates them into chosen language. Some sequences are translated smoothly, others are rugged. There`s probably better online translators than the Google one. Scanning pages or sheets is the most tedious work prior to translation. Just try and find out yourself if it`s worth the effort. Good to hear that your project advances. Michael
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