bricklayer
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Hi Vaddoc, did you modify the original design of the tug by adding three centerboards? Or is it daggerboards?
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druxey reacted to a post in a topic:
Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Hi Mark, I referred to your pic in #79. Just wondered why those woods differ in sheen though you presumably coated them with an equal number of coats. Your latest photo clearly shows that the displaced water at the bow remains low and doesn`t wet the deck. Not even the jib gets wet. Sailing that boat seems to be a veritable pleasure for the five piece crew.
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Mark, I live in northwest-Germany, close to Netherlands and Belgium. So the timber that I know is mostly of central or western european origin. Ash isn`t the hardest, but the toughest wood. Tool handles, treads of ladders and stairways, chairs and tables are made of ash. Probably all european wood species differ from endemic australian species, even though their names are the same. I like the concept of using wood from local or regional supply. When being coated with shellac the Queensland maple looks less weathered and more cabinet-like. How come that the shellac-coated mahogany edge-strip is high-gloss whereas the QM cover-strips are semi-gloss or matt? I didn`t mean to offend your yacht by calling it bulky. To me it just looks like a longitudinally compressed racing yacht. A lady that you gotta love. Michael
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Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Hi Mark, that Queensland maple looks good to me. It looks that good that I`d use it for all wooden parts that remain unpainted. That wood looks weathered somehow. If you used it for deck planking, then you could do without simulated weathering. Is it a hardwood? As hard as ash, beech or mahogany? Regarding the stain between the 1st and 2nd strip of the hatch cover: I`m afraid that you can`t make it disappear. Take it as a reminder: "I shouldn`t have applied half a bottle of liquid CA glue to a single strip of wood ". I love the bulky shape of the yacht and the proper workmanship. Michael
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Costa Passenger Coach by yvesvidal - OcCre - 1/32
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Old Collingwood reacted to a post in a topic:
Costa Passenger Coach by yvesvidal - OcCre - 1/32
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KeithAug reacted to a post in a topic:
Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Costa Passenger Coach by yvesvidal - OcCre - 1/32
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yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic:
Costa Passenger Coach by yvesvidal - OcCre - 1/32
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht
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Hi Keith, a knob? Kind of horizontally oriented bollard? Something to attach a cable or a rope to? Is it recessed? Does it have a cross bore? I haven`t seen the real thing so it`s just guesswork. Michael
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Costa Passenger Coach by yvesvidal - OcCre - 1/32
bricklayer replied to yvesvidal's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Is it the compartment for transportation of domestic animals? Then go and get some 1/32 chickens, pigs and sheep. I don`t see any first class compartment. Do first class passengers find accomodation on the roof of the car? Now let`s get serious. I like that topic in general and your build log in particular. Did you know that the track gauge in Spain, Portugal, Russia and some other countries is wider than in Central Europe and North America? You can take that into account if you want to build a true to scale miniature. Michael -
FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic:
Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht
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Keith, have you tried to score the ply longitudinally, yet? I`d score the back of the wood with a vee-shaped rotary engraving bit at equal increments, i.e 3 to 4 mm apart and .4 mm depth of cut. This bit might do the job: https://www.sorotec.de/shop/Cutting-Tools/sorotec-tools/Engraving-bits/V-Router-Bit-164/ The uppermost one is the most pointed one. Certainly you`ll find a UK-based seller for those engraving bits. You`ll obtain consistent cutting depth since you clamp the tool in the collet of your desktop mill. My only concern would be the spindle speed of this kind of mill. It might run at too low rpm to cut properly with those tiny router bits. Good luck. I know that you`ll succeed in any case. Michael
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Atlas craftsman lathe
bricklayer replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The advertisment in #12 says it all. Hole through spindle is 3/8" and taper in headstock and tailstock spindle is mt1. So these collets should fit in: https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/Morse-Taper-Collets/MT1-Collets-Imperial-Sizes To complete the setup we need a drawbar of sufficient lenght, a corresponding nut and a washer that`s slightly larger in diameter than the spindle bore. It should work like that. Don`t know if it actually does. Michael -
Hi Vaddoc, one more question. I`m sorry to bother you. Which version of Rhino 3d do you use? I ended upgrading Rhino at version 5. I don`t think that I need something more sophisticated
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Hello Vaddoc, what degree and what number of control points did you chose for the lines? Do the station lines have a higher point count and higher degree than the longitudinal lines (buttocks, waterlines and diagonals)? According to my experience a low degree and a low number of points results in the smoothest curves. But the deviation from the points given by the table of offsets is highest. If the number of control points equals degree of curve +1 then the curve doesn`t have any abrupt changes in curvature, thus the curvature graph is smooth. What`s your approach? Do you start with a high number of control point and rebuild the curves with less points if applicable or do you start with few control points and rebuild with more points if necessary? Either curves are fair or congruent with the curves of the lines plan or points of the table of offsets. We can`t have it all. So we have to compromise. I don`t envy you in re-engineering a ship`s hull. Michael
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The drawback of image files vs ASCII is the sometimes poor detection of characters. For instance "1B" translates into "18"
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Dan, I recently used Google translator to translate russian paper prints to german. I scanned page by page with a fladbed-scanner, saved the files as images (i think it was *.png). Then I uploaded the image files into Google translator and chose german as target language. The translator detects text components of the images and translates them into chosen language. Some sequences are translated smoothly, others are rugged. There`s probably better online translators than the Google one. Scanning pages or sheets is the most tedious work prior to translation. Just try and find out yourself if it`s worth the effort. Good to hear that your project advances. Michael
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Hi Micha, the key word for measuring physical items to create digital or virtual copies of their surface is photogrammetry. The link to an article on wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photogrammetry I remember having read an article on this subject in the quarterly publication of Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau, das logbuch issue 2023/1. The link to their website: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/logbuch/logbuch-archiv/2020-2029/lg-2023-1/ This technique seems to work fine, if only you follow the rules. There`s alot that you have to take care of to obtain reliable and accurate results. Hundreds of shots are required. I don`t think that you`ll manage to do it on a boat that`s exposed on a fair like boot in Dusseldorf or elsewhere. You`d better go for a boat whose full set of lines is available to public. Just my 2 €-cents, not necessarily your opinion. Michael
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Dan, that`s a beautiful presentation. I like the arrangement of images and text. And I like your choice of colours of the background that images and text are embedded in. If you manage to find a complete and reliable set of plans then your scale build will become a proper one. You already found many sources that will guide you along the build. Michael
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Decent small clamps
bricklayer replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Gregory, you can shrink the tubing by gently moving it over a candle flame. Just don`t stall and don`t let the flame hit the tubing.
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