hamilton

Very nice rigging.

Brilliant work....and to work with all them lines at this scale "gulp" "help" mind you better than the 700 scale modern warship im working on aswel....
 
 
C.

I'll second Mark's WOW.  Gets a little hairy toward the end with all the lines.....particularly at your scale.
 
NICELY DONE!

I think "WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!" pretty much covers it....     Great job on the rigging, Hamilton.

Thank you Hamilton,
You are so victorious... Rigging details are outstanding...
You are so speedy to answer a request in comparison with me... 

Nice job edge-bending the hand rails. I cut mine out of wider stock, not having thought of the approach you took - looks very nice. 
hamilton

Hi Guys,
 
Here are a few pics of the progress so far, not that much to see but at least you will know where I am.
 
Thanks Grant for the positive remarks on the alignment of the masts, I was a bit worried.
 
Masts dry fitted

 

 
Underside of the main fighting top, I extended the length to reduce clutter, I hope. Also the mast cap with sister or long blocks

 
Topside of main fighting top

 
Underside of partly blocked fore mast also mast cap with sister or long blocks

 
Topside of fore mast fighting tops

 
So that's it guys, now you know exactly where I am.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 

First steps of this build involve the creation of anchor pockets in the bow casting. If you look at the prototype photo, you'll see the original had the anchors recessed into pockets. The model lacks these and shows simply an embossed ring where the hawse pipe penetrates the hull. Using a waterline marking tool, I marked out the top and bottom of the pocket (hopefully symetrical on each side), and then marked the sides. I drilled the four corners and then cut out the rough dimensions of the pocket with an x-acto saw.
 
Cleaned and squared up, the inside top, and outside bottom edges where beveled. Using 0.030" styrene I then created a basic pocket. A simple prismatic structure. This was then glued to the inside of the hull. I had a spare anchor from a previous build that I used for testing and reference for size. There is still a bit of refinment left to be done, mostly with some styrene shapes (1/4 round on each side and 1/2 round just below) as well as some putty work to smooth everything out.
 
It's important to do these kinds of modifications now, before hull assembly, as things get a little difficult to manipulate later on.
 
Doing this you can get a sense of some of the drawbacks of a resin kit. Very quickly on I noticed the wall thickness of the casting differed by quite a bit from side to side. Normally this wouldn't be a problem, since the kit was never designed to be treated in the manner to which I am subjecting it. This should be the last time I have to do any major modification through the lower hull. When the fo'c'sle deck goes on, I will use a piece of aluminum tubing to complete the hawse pipe connection. Although this detail can't be seen, leaving it off would leave odd holes in the deck that would not look right, and could potentially spill light where I don't want it. (Yes I am planing on illuminating some parts of the model).
 
Andy

Hi Andy:
 
Don't get too distracted, now! This should be a very interesting build - As others have said, I've never seen a resin kit before - I'm curious in particular about your finishing techniques - though if you've been involved in model railroads, I imagine you have quite a number of good techniques in your arsenal! 
hamilton

The Admiral and I moved to a new shipyard, causing progress to halt for a while.
 
I started with the side rails.  At the waist deck the planks must bent laterally to fit the curve of the bulwarks.  I didn’t think it would be possible, but it turns out the 2x5mm planks can actually be curved that far laterally.  I select a piece with a long, open grain, soak it for 20 min in water and then bend it in a jig.  Success seems directly equivalent to the amount of beer consumed while trying the stunt.
 

 
In the end it fits the top curve of the bulwarks nicely.
 


 
I did not use the other metal doors that came with the kit, so I made a door and two windows for the stern gallery as well.
 

 
I finished the pieces for the stern gallery.  In the picture below it is dry fitted.  I still turn my SFII on her side a lot when I work and I’m worried that I will break the stern gallery in the process.  I will glue it in place later.  I must also make a tiller for the rudder.
 

 
Next up (together with the side rails) is the head rails.
 

The basic kit is 3 feet long. I've added two extra midsections (at 10" each) for a total length of 56". Make no mistake, this thing will be huge. I will need a long rigid building board for this beastie. Just for good measure, in the last photo, I've included my Pegasus in the background for comparison.
 
 
I will be picking at this build from time to time. I don't expect hull construction to take very long, the fun will be in the painting and detailling. I've got a lot of work ahead of me. This has to be a showpiece model, given it's location. For more information on the club check out: http://www.railviewmrc.ca/
 
For any of you who might be intrigued enough to try a large resin kit, have a look here: http://www.sylvanscalemodels.com/
 
Andy

Well... I think it's safe to say the storm has blown over, and the skies are clearing.
 
In that light, I'll start a new log for something completely different. Sylvan scale models are known more to the model railroad community, producing resin kits of vehicles, structures and rolling stock. They also have a small line of marine models. Mostly waterline models for layout display.
 
For those of you who are not aware, I am a member of the Railview Model Railway Club, operating in Marham ON. An older club (of similar name) recently disbanded, and a few of the old members, and a ton of new members have taken over the lease of 3 office units in Markham (3400 square feet). This new club is very busy renovating the space and will be constructing a new layout shortly.
 
Getting closer to the topic at hand, part of the layout will depict operations at Hamilton, ON. including the large Stelco steel mill. I've been there many times in the past on ships, unloading iron ore, and I thought is would be a great idea, as a scenic element, to depict the same. 
 
Starting with the basic Sylvan "Canaller" model I intend to extend the hull and scratch build a self unloading system. The intent is to make a model that will look superficially similar to a vessel operated by Canada Steamship Lines from the late 1920s to the mid 1960s, and Later by Reoch Transport until around 1984.
 
Trying to replicate the full sized vessel would be an excercise in madness, and would be too large to fit in the space alloted on the club layout. Doing a quick check, the dimensions of the model I will be producing, I will end up with a model that will be roughly 70% the size of the real ship (in scale). As such the model will be over 4.5 feet long as it is. All I can say is thank G** I don't have to plank it.
 
So without further a-do, the start of my next project.

I would like to apologize to the members of MSW for my somewhat abrupt behavior over the last day or so.  In addition, I apologize to Chuck for any difficulties this may have caused.  He and I have been in contact, via PM and I hope at some point he sees fit to return to MSW administration.
 
We are, in fact, of the same mind.  This site exists for the purpose of model shipbuilding discussion while, at the same time, leaving room for a certain degree of so-called off topic comments essential to establishing personal relationships.  Others may agree or not depending on their own outlook.  But in my opinion we have long been tolerant of one another in order to have a vibrant, harmonious site.  Somehow, lines were drawn and we became divided.
 
This is not why we came here.
 
I intend to return to 'active duty', welcoming any and all commentary to my logs with the proviso that we keep things somewhat more focused than in the past.  I thank all those who intervened positively during this episode and hope that those who chose to leave will return to MSW.

Hello all:
 
First of all, for Ferit I have the photo of the port side fore lower shrouds and ratlines (first photo below) - hope this is what you're looking for.
 
The night before last I shaped, finished and outfitted the spritsail yard, and this evening I installed and began rigging it. I had hoped to add the clews and sheets as well, but I only managed to add the sling, the halliard, the lifts and braces. I also added jibboom guys and guy falls (as noted in Lees), but ended up removing them because I felt they made the model look too cluttered. I'm now cursing the absence of a fairleader block on the bowsprit - which Goodwin features, but which I didn't feel confident in making - now I'm not satisfied with the chaos of lines at the bow, and yet don't feel up for dismantling all my work.......I will live with it, I suppose.
 
Anyway, I'll hopefully have a chance of finishing the spritsail yard rigging tomorrow - from there I'll start the spars from the mizzen mast forward.....Enjoy!
hamilton
 

 

 

 

 

Thank you very much for your interest and your kind words, guys.

Rich_engr
Sorry for not having made myself clear enough. The parts of the mast have to be glued together first. Using a rectangular block of wood could be helpful with the shaping. Here are the six parts:


Here you can see the height of the mast:
 




BTW, the first planking is done. Next is filling and sanding the hull.
 

 

 
 
It seems, Amati is very generous with the kit supplied material:
 

 
Well, it's not enough for a second Endeavour, but enough for planking the hull of a small vessel.
 

The collar looks great! I tried serving mine on the Blandford, but it was far too small a scale to get it to look right, even with sewing thread. 
hamilton

Sheesh - if my blood and sweat planking looked anything like your crazy quilt planking I'd be a happy man! she's looking very fine Bob!
hamilton

A big step forward. The lower hull planking on the port side has been done. This was the big test for the success of the trial and error correction process on the hull framing. With no more than a couple of the usual very slight adjustments to the framing, the planking went on smoothly. A big sigh of relief.
 
I did change my plans somewhat. For a variety of reasons, I decided not to do the area below the wales and above the copper in natural boxwood. That area will now be painted black. As a result, I did the entire lower hull with basswood planking. I also concluded that my only goals were to finish with a well faired hull with a smooth surface. This led  me to cover the framing with what can only be described as a patch work of crazy quilt planking, rather than following strict prototype planking patterns. This allowed me to cover the area rather quickly and easily.
 
After a lot of sanding (sandpaper is your good friend) and even some use of filler (ugh!), I was quite pleased with the result and see no reason to do the other side any differently. The starboard planking will be the next step.
 
Bob
 
 
 
 

So this is my third attempt which may pass muster, thinking its probably well worth the effort to work through this although it does feel a little like jumping in at the deep end.  Made the collar and the end loops with false splices, and then served the collar in between.  Tried a few times to serve the eye but have not been successful yet!  However, as Alistair notes above its really not that visible at all so this is a corner I'll cut for now until I get more proficient.  GS Hypo glue worked really well as others have recommended.  Second photo is trial installation and I'll hold off until I've made the second collar.  Once these are installed I'll probably put some clear sealer in to help get rid of any fuzzies, but they're really only noticeable in the photos.  Hopefully I'll get better with experience.
 

I had a bit of a play around and managed to make a half decent long tackle block by gluing two different size block together after filing one end of each flat. I have also just started making the lower masts and tops.

Pinrails:
 
 
Here they are dry fit to the bulwarks--
 

 
 
Closer photo with my one homemade brass belaying pin--these (once all 80 or so are made!) will be blackened--
 

 
 
They aren't glued yet.  I'm waiting to glue these and some more cleats all at once.  I'm also waiting while I think about whether to stain the pin rails black, or leave them "natural"--
 

 
 
I think I need to finish everything else that's needed inboard on the deck, before finishing the outer hull (channels, chain plates, head rails).   That means the mast pin rails, the pumps, capstan, mast partners, bowsprit step, the lower masts; the list goes on.   
 
Ron

I'm struggling as well with the extension of Hamilton's question but found the following.  Looking at Darcy Levers "Young sea officers sheet anchor" it implies that there is only one deadeye per collar and hence two collars, but that in the merchant service it is common to have 2 deadeyes on the same collar.  The kit plans I'm looking at are no help at all.

Hi Mark:
 
Jast catching up on your build - thanks for posting the profile shot - she looks a beauty!
hamilton

Sewing progresses very slowly.  I’m still learning how to handle the sewing machine.  You would think this would be fairly simple, but no!  I’m finding that the most difficult part of sewing the seams in the sails is starting a line to stitching.
 

 
If you don’t control the top and bottom threads, keeping them taught with a finger as you begin the stitch, the bottom thread will sometimes snag the top thread and pull it under the cloth.  This causes it to be tangled into the stitching.  Of course you don’t discover this until after you’ve finished the entire line of stitching.  Sometimes I can very carefully pull the thread out and tighten the stitching.  Sometimes I can’t and then it requires taking out the entire line of stitching and doing it over again.  I’m learning!
 
Once I have the seams sewn into the sail pattern it leaves “Irish Pennants” along the hem line.  Using a regular sewing needle I bring the top thread back through the cloth and tie it to the bottom thread with a square knot.
 


 
Once all the seams are sewn in I dampened the sail cloth and ironed all the wrinkles out.  Now it’s time to start cutting out the patterns.
 

 
I’ve used Fray Check along all the sail pattern outlines to prevent the cloth from unraveling after it’s cut.  I also painted a thin solution of white glue to all the outside areas that will be folded to form the hems.  I’m hoping this will add just enough stiffness to allow for a nice crisp fold.
 
As I said; slow progress, but, “softly, softly, catchee monkey.”
 

Tonight I decided to work on some parts that I was really not looking forward to doing. The nature of kit means that these bits are very fiddly and, in my opinion, hard to make look good.
 

 
The bottom of the doors is made from 2mm wide ply which doesn't fit the opening very well and will mean the frame will need to be fitted to support it.
 

 
Working on one of the windows. At least there is some play with the plastic 'window glass'. The sides and base of the frame are being sanded flush with the planking. I tend to use grits 240 - 600 paper and then 0000 wire wool to lift the dust from the grain and leave a nice sheen.
 

 
After this I need to split more plywood rings to complete the tops of the window frames.