hamilton

A bit more progress on Echo. I took some time over the weekend and studied the framing tables supplied by Admiralty for the cross-section, sorted through wood, made copies of the frame patterns and started work on the deadflat frame. I also made the framing square jig, the pattern for which is also included with the other documentation for this build - it is suggested to use heavy card for this, but having an ample supply of 1/16" basswood strip, I decided to use that. 
 
For the deadflat frame, I first cut out templates of the individual frame elements, but realised that cutting and refining the chocks and cross chocks might be done more precisely and efficiently if I made billets for this purpose. The chocks and crosschocks are made from different thicknesses of boxwood depending on their location - 10.5", 10" and 8.25". The cross chocks for the forward frames are all 10". So I made 4 billets - 1 10.5" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 10" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 8.25" x 5/8" x 2 1/4" and for the cross chocks 10" x 1 3/4" x 2 1/2". I cut these billets over long for the number of chocks required so I could use the excess as a handle to refine the angled portions of the chocks on my disc sander. The straight edge will be cut using a chisel and refined by hand.
 
I have yet to refine the futtocks so the images below show them as I rough cut them on the bandsaw.
 
Enjoy and bye for now!
hamilton
 

So over lunch today I walked up to the local hardware store (located dangerously close to my house) and picked up a tap & die set to resolve the mounting question asked above - thanks again Dave and VTHokiEE! It took about 1 minute to tap the mounting holes I drilled out yesterday and I was very relieved to find that I hadn't drilled the holes out too wide for the 6-32 tap. A small step, but this lightened up a huge area of ignorance for me in terms of this aspect of modelling. Here are some photos, just to liven things up a bit, though they may not be of much intrinsic interest. The second shot is of the tiny puncture made by the awl - hard to get focus on this.....
hamilton

Over the last several days I constructed the building board for the Echo cross-section - a fairly straightforward process, though aligning the mounting holes in the keel with their positions on the building board tested my eyes and patience....I used 3/4" MDF for the board, painted with 3 coats of matte white acrylic, with two 1 x 2 strips for support.
 
To trace the centre line, I first extended the centre line markings on the breadth plan drawing supplied by Admiralty models. I then positioned this drawing centred on the building board and extended the centre line from the plan sheet to the top and bottom of the building board. Once the plan sheet was removed, I could then connect these two short lines, scribe them with a #11 blade and retrace for emphasis. In a way this process was unnecessary, since the plan sheet is fixed to the building board, but having the centre line on the board provided the necessary reference for aligning the plan sheet with the centre line once I was ready to adhere the plans to the board.
 
I ended up threading the holes in the building board as my 6-32" machine screws were not able to fit through the holes as drilled, but fit perfectly once they were properly threaded. I was quite satisfied when the keel assembly fit nice and snug on the mounting screws along the centre line of the board! At this stage, I am considering making some right angle squares since the ones I have are either too large or too small for the scale of the cross-section. I made some right angle squares from 1/8" acrylic sheet a while ago and these might serve - but I have to find them first!! If your workshop is like mine then you know what a challenge this can be!
 
I also cut out the various parts that make up the framing square that slides over the keel assembly to ensure verticality of the frames - but I've yet to complete this stage....once this is done I'll be moving on to the framing, which is both exciting and a little nerve-wracking...Going to spend some time studying the information provided by Admiralty models, sort out the frame components and boxwood sheets appropriately and set up for constructing the frames....
 
Enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton
 

Minor update on the deadflat frame. The chocks and cross chock are now cut out and I think my approach to doing this (at least provisionally) works ok. As noted above, I made a few billets of boxwood for the cross chocks and the chocks, since I felt that it would be very hard for me to make these if I was just trying to cut them out of the larger sheets along with the futtocks.
 
I position the template of the chock/cross chock at the end of the appropriate billets - in this case, they were all cut from 10" stock - with the angled side at 1 edge. I then use the disc sander to shave the angled portions down - not quite fully, so I can finish them off more carefully by hand with a sanding block. I then cut along the straight edge on the scroll saw to release them from the billet - I was worried that this would be really hard to achieve since the pieces are so small, but it actually proved not too difficult. Some light final finishing with sanding block and files and presto! I now only need to refine the futtocks and then get into the joinery....the kind of finnicky work that normally defeats my lazy and distracted nature, but that I'm determined to really get right! The final shot, below, shows the chocks loosely put together with the futtocks, and it shows I've got some ways still to go before I can finalise the assembly and raise the frame....but I'm enjoying this far more than I feared I might! Hopefully that feeling lasts!!
hamilton

Minor update on the deadflat frame. The chocks and cross chock are now cut out and I think my approach to doing this (at least provisionally) works ok. As noted above, I made a few billets of boxwood for the cross chocks and the chocks, since I felt that it would be very hard for me to make these if I was just trying to cut them out of the larger sheets along with the futtocks.
 
I position the template of the chock/cross chock at the end of the appropriate billets - in this case, they were all cut from 10" stock - with the angled side at 1 edge. I then use the disc sander to shave the angled portions down - not quite fully, so I can finish them off more carefully by hand with a sanding block. I then cut along the straight edge on the scroll saw to release them from the billet - I was worried that this would be really hard to achieve since the pieces are so small, but it actually proved not too difficult. Some light final finishing with sanding block and files and presto! I now only need to refine the futtocks and then get into the joinery....the kind of finnicky work that normally defeats my lazy and distracted nature, but that I'm determined to really get right! The final shot, below, shows the chocks loosely put together with the futtocks, and it shows I've got some ways still to go before I can finalise the assembly and raise the frame....but I'm enjoying this far more than I feared I might! Hopefully that feeling lasts!!
hamilton

Minor update on the deadflat frame. The chocks and cross chock are now cut out and I think my approach to doing this (at least provisionally) works ok. As noted above, I made a few billets of boxwood for the cross chocks and the chocks, since I felt that it would be very hard for me to make these if I was just trying to cut them out of the larger sheets along with the futtocks.
 
I position the template of the chock/cross chock at the end of the appropriate billets - in this case, they were all cut from 10" stock - with the angled side at 1 edge. I then use the disc sander to shave the angled portions down - not quite fully, so I can finish them off more carefully by hand with a sanding block. I then cut along the straight edge on the scroll saw to release them from the billet - I was worried that this would be really hard to achieve since the pieces are so small, but it actually proved not too difficult. Some light final finishing with sanding block and files and presto! I now only need to refine the futtocks and then get into the joinery....the kind of finnicky work that normally defeats my lazy and distracted nature, but that I'm determined to really get right! The final shot, below, shows the chocks loosely put together with the futtocks, and it shows I've got some ways still to go before I can finalise the assembly and raise the frame....but I'm enjoying this far more than I feared I might! Hopefully that feeling lasts!!
hamilton

Minor update on the deadflat frame. The chocks and cross chock are now cut out and I think my approach to doing this (at least provisionally) works ok. As noted above, I made a few billets of boxwood for the cross chocks and the chocks, since I felt that it would be very hard for me to make these if I was just trying to cut them out of the larger sheets along with the futtocks.
 
I position the template of the chock/cross chock at the end of the appropriate billets - in this case, they were all cut from 10" stock - with the angled side at 1 edge. I then use the disc sander to shave the angled portions down - not quite fully, so I can finish them off more carefully by hand with a sanding block. I then cut along the straight edge on the scroll saw to release them from the billet - I was worried that this would be really hard to achieve since the pieces are so small, but it actually proved not too difficult. Some light final finishing with sanding block and files and presto! I now only need to refine the futtocks and then get into the joinery....the kind of finnicky work that normally defeats my lazy and distracted nature, but that I'm determined to really get right! The final shot, below, shows the chocks loosely put together with the futtocks, and it shows I've got some ways still to go before I can finalise the assembly and raise the frame....but I'm enjoying this far more than I feared I might! Hopefully that feeling lasts!!
hamilton

Minor update on the deadflat frame. The chocks and cross chock are now cut out and I think my approach to doing this (at least provisionally) works ok. As noted above, I made a few billets of boxwood for the cross chocks and the chocks, since I felt that it would be very hard for me to make these if I was just trying to cut them out of the larger sheets along with the futtocks.
 
I position the template of the chock/cross chock at the end of the appropriate billets - in this case, they were all cut from 10" stock - with the angled side at 1 edge. I then use the disc sander to shave the angled portions down - not quite fully, so I can finish them off more carefully by hand with a sanding block. I then cut along the straight edge on the scroll saw to release them from the billet - I was worried that this would be really hard to achieve since the pieces are so small, but it actually proved not too difficult. Some light final finishing with sanding block and files and presto! I now only need to refine the futtocks and then get into the joinery....the kind of finnicky work that normally defeats my lazy and distracted nature, but that I'm determined to really get right! The final shot, below, shows the chocks loosely put together with the futtocks, and it shows I've got some ways still to go before I can finalise the assembly and raise the frame....but I'm enjoying this far more than I feared I might! Hopefully that feeling lasts!!
hamilton

A bit more progress on Echo. I took some time over the weekend and studied the framing tables supplied by Admiralty for the cross-section, sorted through wood, made copies of the frame patterns and started work on the deadflat frame. I also made the framing square jig, the pattern for which is also included with the other documentation for this build - it is suggested to use heavy card for this, but having an ample supply of 1/16" basswood strip, I decided to use that. 
 
For the deadflat frame, I first cut out templates of the individual frame elements, but realised that cutting and refining the chocks and cross chocks might be done more precisely and efficiently if I made billets for this purpose. The chocks and crosschocks are made from different thicknesses of boxwood depending on their location - 10.5", 10" and 8.25". The cross chocks for the forward frames are all 10". So I made 4 billets - 1 10.5" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 10" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 8.25" x 5/8" x 2 1/4" and for the cross chocks 10" x 1 3/4" x 2 1/2". I cut these billets over long for the number of chocks required so I could use the excess as a handle to refine the angled portions of the chocks on my disc sander. The straight edge will be cut using a chisel and refined by hand.
 
I have yet to refine the futtocks so the images below show them as I rough cut them on the bandsaw.
 
Enjoy and bye for now!
hamilton
 

A bit more progress on Echo. I took some time over the weekend and studied the framing tables supplied by Admiralty for the cross-section, sorted through wood, made copies of the frame patterns and started work on the deadflat frame. I also made the framing square jig, the pattern for which is also included with the other documentation for this build - it is suggested to use heavy card for this, but having an ample supply of 1/16" basswood strip, I decided to use that. 
 
For the deadflat frame, I first cut out templates of the individual frame elements, but realised that cutting and refining the chocks and cross chocks might be done more precisely and efficiently if I made billets for this purpose. The chocks and crosschocks are made from different thicknesses of boxwood depending on their location - 10.5", 10" and 8.25". The cross chocks for the forward frames are all 10". So I made 4 billets - 1 10.5" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 10" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 8.25" x 5/8" x 2 1/4" and for the cross chocks 10" x 1 3/4" x 2 1/2". I cut these billets over long for the number of chocks required so I could use the excess as a handle to refine the angled portions of the chocks on my disc sander. The straight edge will be cut using a chisel and refined by hand.
 
I have yet to refine the futtocks so the images below show them as I rough cut them on the bandsaw.
 
Enjoy and bye for now!
hamilton
 

Beautiful work!
hamilton

A bit more progress on Echo. I took some time over the weekend and studied the framing tables supplied by Admiralty for the cross-section, sorted through wood, made copies of the frame patterns and started work on the deadflat frame. I also made the framing square jig, the pattern for which is also included with the other documentation for this build - it is suggested to use heavy card for this, but having an ample supply of 1/16" basswood strip, I decided to use that. 
 
For the deadflat frame, I first cut out templates of the individual frame elements, but realised that cutting and refining the chocks and cross chocks might be done more precisely and efficiently if I made billets for this purpose. The chocks and crosschocks are made from different thicknesses of boxwood depending on their location - 10.5", 10" and 8.25". The cross chocks for the forward frames are all 10". So I made 4 billets - 1 10.5" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 10" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 8.25" x 5/8" x 2 1/4" and for the cross chocks 10" x 1 3/4" x 2 1/2". I cut these billets over long for the number of chocks required so I could use the excess as a handle to refine the angled portions of the chocks on my disc sander. The straight edge will be cut using a chisel and refined by hand.
 
I have yet to refine the futtocks so the images below show them as I rough cut them on the bandsaw.
 
Enjoy and bye for now!
hamilton
 

A bit more progress on Echo. I took some time over the weekend and studied the framing tables supplied by Admiralty for the cross-section, sorted through wood, made copies of the frame patterns and started work on the deadflat frame. I also made the framing square jig, the pattern for which is also included with the other documentation for this build - it is suggested to use heavy card for this, but having an ample supply of 1/16" basswood strip, I decided to use that. 
 
For the deadflat frame, I first cut out templates of the individual frame elements, but realised that cutting and refining the chocks and cross chocks might be done more precisely and efficiently if I made billets for this purpose. The chocks and crosschocks are made from different thicknesses of boxwood depending on their location - 10.5", 10" and 8.25". The cross chocks for the forward frames are all 10". So I made 4 billets - 1 10.5" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 10" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 8.25" x 5/8" x 2 1/4" and for the cross chocks 10" x 1 3/4" x 2 1/2". I cut these billets over long for the number of chocks required so I could use the excess as a handle to refine the angled portions of the chocks on my disc sander. The straight edge will be cut using a chisel and refined by hand.
 
I have yet to refine the futtocks so the images below show them as I rough cut them on the bandsaw.
 
Enjoy and bye for now!
hamilton
 

Over the last several days I constructed the building board for the Echo cross-section - a fairly straightforward process, though aligning the mounting holes in the keel with their positions on the building board tested my eyes and patience....I used 3/4" MDF for the board, painted with 3 coats of matte white acrylic, with two 1 x 2 strips for support.
 
To trace the centre line, I first extended the centre line markings on the breadth plan drawing supplied by Admiralty models. I then positioned this drawing centred on the building board and extended the centre line from the plan sheet to the top and bottom of the building board. Once the plan sheet was removed, I could then connect these two short lines, scribe them with a #11 blade and retrace for emphasis. In a way this process was unnecessary, since the plan sheet is fixed to the building board, but having the centre line on the board provided the necessary reference for aligning the plan sheet with the centre line once I was ready to adhere the plans to the board.
 
I ended up threading the holes in the building board as my 6-32" machine screws were not able to fit through the holes as drilled, but fit perfectly once they were properly threaded. I was quite satisfied when the keel assembly fit nice and snug on the mounting screws along the centre line of the board! At this stage, I am considering making some right angle squares since the ones I have are either too large or too small for the scale of the cross-section. I made some right angle squares from 1/8" acrylic sheet a while ago and these might serve - but I have to find them first!! If your workshop is like mine then you know what a challenge this can be!
 
I also cut out the various parts that make up the framing square that slides over the keel assembly to ensure verticality of the frames - but I've yet to complete this stage....once this is done I'll be moving on to the framing, which is both exciting and a little nerve-wracking...Going to spend some time studying the information provided by Admiralty models, sort out the frame components and boxwood sheets appropriately and set up for constructing the frames....
 
Enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton
 

A bit more progress on Echo. I took some time over the weekend and studied the framing tables supplied by Admiralty for the cross-section, sorted through wood, made copies of the frame patterns and started work on the deadflat frame. I also made the framing square jig, the pattern for which is also included with the other documentation for this build - it is suggested to use heavy card for this, but having an ample supply of 1/16" basswood strip, I decided to use that. 
 
For the deadflat frame, I first cut out templates of the individual frame elements, but realised that cutting and refining the chocks and cross chocks might be done more precisely and efficiently if I made billets for this purpose. The chocks and crosschocks are made from different thicknesses of boxwood depending on their location - 10.5", 10" and 8.25". The cross chocks for the forward frames are all 10". So I made 4 billets - 1 10.5" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 10" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 8.25" x 5/8" x 2 1/4" and for the cross chocks 10" x 1 3/4" x 2 1/2". I cut these billets over long for the number of chocks required so I could use the excess as a handle to refine the angled portions of the chocks on my disc sander. The straight edge will be cut using a chisel and refined by hand.
 
I have yet to refine the futtocks so the images below show them as I rough cut them on the bandsaw.
 
Enjoy and bye for now!
hamilton
 

A bit more progress on Echo. I took some time over the weekend and studied the framing tables supplied by Admiralty for the cross-section, sorted through wood, made copies of the frame patterns and started work on the deadflat frame. I also made the framing square jig, the pattern for which is also included with the other documentation for this build - it is suggested to use heavy card for this, but having an ample supply of 1/16" basswood strip, I decided to use that. 
 
For the deadflat frame, I first cut out templates of the individual frame elements, but realised that cutting and refining the chocks and cross chocks might be done more precisely and efficiently if I made billets for this purpose. The chocks and crosschocks are made from different thicknesses of boxwood depending on their location - 10.5", 10" and 8.25". The cross chocks for the forward frames are all 10". So I made 4 billets - 1 10.5" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 10" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 8.25" x 5/8" x 2 1/4" and for the cross chocks 10" x 1 3/4" x 2 1/2". I cut these billets over long for the number of chocks required so I could use the excess as a handle to refine the angled portions of the chocks on my disc sander. The straight edge will be cut using a chisel and refined by hand.
 
I have yet to refine the futtocks so the images below show them as I rough cut them on the bandsaw.
 
Enjoy and bye for now!
hamilton
 

A bit more progress on Echo. I took some time over the weekend and studied the framing tables supplied by Admiralty for the cross-section, sorted through wood, made copies of the frame patterns and started work on the deadflat frame. I also made the framing square jig, the pattern for which is also included with the other documentation for this build - it is suggested to use heavy card for this, but having an ample supply of 1/16" basswood strip, I decided to use that. 
 
For the deadflat frame, I first cut out templates of the individual frame elements, but realised that cutting and refining the chocks and cross chocks might be done more precisely and efficiently if I made billets for this purpose. The chocks and crosschocks are made from different thicknesses of boxwood depending on their location - 10.5", 10" and 8.25". The cross chocks for the forward frames are all 10". So I made 4 billets - 1 10.5" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 10" x 5/8" x 3 1/4", 1 8.25" x 5/8" x 2 1/4" and for the cross chocks 10" x 1 3/4" x 2 1/2". I cut these billets over long for the number of chocks required so I could use the excess as a handle to refine the angled portions of the chocks on my disc sander. The straight edge will be cut using a chisel and refined by hand.
 
I have yet to refine the futtocks so the images below show them as I rough cut them on the bandsaw.
 
Enjoy and bye for now!
hamilton
 

Another (hopefully quick) question for you, @dvm27. I've been studying the document called "Echo Cross Section Frame Components", which provides tables giving info on the sided dimensions of frame components, and the drawing of the disposition of frame, and I think I must be missing something in relation to Frame 2 (Aft).
 
On the Frame Components document, there is information given for the 3rd futtock (cut from 9" stock), but none given for the chock or second futtock - this is the case both port and starboard. If I read the table correctly, I'm to attach the 8" 3rd futtock of frame 2 to the 10.5" floor of frame 2 directly using a 10.5" chock - is this right? I know this frame is line with the gunport, so perhaps that explains things.
 
But when I checked this against the disposition of frame drawing, I noticed that a) there are 2 measures given on the 2nd futtock - 8.5" in the lower part and 8" at the upper part - I assume this indicates a taper, rather than two futtocks, since there is no line dividing a 2nd & 3rd futtock as can be seen in the other aft frames.....is that right?
 
Thanks for any clarification you can provide - I hope my explanation of the problem I'm having is clear.....
hamilton

Over the last several days I constructed the building board for the Echo cross-section - a fairly straightforward process, though aligning the mounting holes in the keel with their positions on the building board tested my eyes and patience....I used 3/4" MDF for the board, painted with 3 coats of matte white acrylic, with two 1 x 2 strips for support.
 
To trace the centre line, I first extended the centre line markings on the breadth plan drawing supplied by Admiralty models. I then positioned this drawing centred on the building board and extended the centre line from the plan sheet to the top and bottom of the building board. Once the plan sheet was removed, I could then connect these two short lines, scribe them with a #11 blade and retrace for emphasis. In a way this process was unnecessary, since the plan sheet is fixed to the building board, but having the centre line on the board provided the necessary reference for aligning the plan sheet with the centre line once I was ready to adhere the plans to the board.
 
I ended up threading the holes in the building board as my 6-32" machine screws were not able to fit through the holes as drilled, but fit perfectly once they were properly threaded. I was quite satisfied when the keel assembly fit nice and snug on the mounting screws along the centre line of the board! At this stage, I am considering making some right angle squares since the ones I have are either too large or too small for the scale of the cross-section. I made some right angle squares from 1/8" acrylic sheet a while ago and these might serve - but I have to find them first!! If your workshop is like mine then you know what a challenge this can be!
 
I also cut out the various parts that make up the framing square that slides over the keel assembly to ensure verticality of the frames - but I've yet to complete this stage....once this is done I'll be moving on to the framing, which is both exciting and a little nerve-wracking...Going to spend some time studying the information provided by Admiralty models, sort out the frame components and boxwood sheets appropriately and set up for constructing the frames....
 
Enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton
 

Over the last several days I constructed the building board for the Echo cross-section - a fairly straightforward process, though aligning the mounting holes in the keel with their positions on the building board tested my eyes and patience....I used 3/4" MDF for the board, painted with 3 coats of matte white acrylic, with two 1 x 2 strips for support.
 
To trace the centre line, I first extended the centre line markings on the breadth plan drawing supplied by Admiralty models. I then positioned this drawing centred on the building board and extended the centre line from the plan sheet to the top and bottom of the building board. Once the plan sheet was removed, I could then connect these two short lines, scribe them with a #11 blade and retrace for emphasis. In a way this process was unnecessary, since the plan sheet is fixed to the building board, but having the centre line on the board provided the necessary reference for aligning the plan sheet with the centre line once I was ready to adhere the plans to the board.
 
I ended up threading the holes in the building board as my 6-32" machine screws were not able to fit through the holes as drilled, but fit perfectly once they were properly threaded. I was quite satisfied when the keel assembly fit nice and snug on the mounting screws along the centre line of the board! At this stage, I am considering making some right angle squares since the ones I have are either too large or too small for the scale of the cross-section. I made some right angle squares from 1/8" acrylic sheet a while ago and these might serve - but I have to find them first!! If your workshop is like mine then you know what a challenge this can be!
 
I also cut out the various parts that make up the framing square that slides over the keel assembly to ensure verticality of the frames - but I've yet to complete this stage....once this is done I'll be moving on to the framing, which is both exciting and a little nerve-wracking...Going to spend some time studying the information provided by Admiralty models, sort out the frame components and boxwood sheets appropriately and set up for constructing the frames....
 
Enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton
 

So over lunch today I walked up to the local hardware store (located dangerously close to my house) and picked up a tap & die set to resolve the mounting question asked above - thanks again Dave and VTHokiEE! It took about 1 minute to tap the mounting holes I drilled out yesterday and I was very relieved to find that I hadn't drilled the holes out too wide for the 6-32 tap. A small step, but this lightened up a huge area of ignorance for me in terms of this aspect of modelling. Here are some photos, just to liven things up a bit, though they may not be of much intrinsic interest. The second shot is of the tiny puncture made by the awl - hard to get focus on this.....
hamilton

Another (hopefully quick) question for you, @dvm27. I've been studying the document called "Echo Cross Section Frame Components", which provides tables giving info on the sided dimensions of frame components, and the drawing of the disposition of frame, and I think I must be missing something in relation to Frame 2 (Aft).
 
On the Frame Components document, there is information given for the 3rd futtock (cut from 9" stock), but none given for the chock or second futtock - this is the case both port and starboard. If I read the table correctly, I'm to attach the 8" 3rd futtock of frame 2 to the 10.5" floor of frame 2 directly using a 10.5" chock - is this right? I know this frame is line with the gunport, so perhaps that explains things.
 
But when I checked this against the disposition of frame drawing, I noticed that a) there are 2 measures given on the 2nd futtock - 8.5" in the lower part and 8" at the upper part - I assume this indicates a taper, rather than two futtocks, since there is no line dividing a 2nd & 3rd futtock as can be seen in the other aft frames.....is that right?
 
Thanks for any clarification you can provide - I hope my explanation of the problem I'm having is clear.....
hamilton

Over the last several days I constructed the building board for the Echo cross-section - a fairly straightforward process, though aligning the mounting holes in the keel with their positions on the building board tested my eyes and patience....I used 3/4" MDF for the board, painted with 3 coats of matte white acrylic, with two 1 x 2 strips for support.
 
To trace the centre line, I first extended the centre line markings on the breadth plan drawing supplied by Admiralty models. I then positioned this drawing centred on the building board and extended the centre line from the plan sheet to the top and bottom of the building board. Once the plan sheet was removed, I could then connect these two short lines, scribe them with a #11 blade and retrace for emphasis. In a way this process was unnecessary, since the plan sheet is fixed to the building board, but having the centre line on the board provided the necessary reference for aligning the plan sheet with the centre line once I was ready to adhere the plans to the board.
 
I ended up threading the holes in the building board as my 6-32" machine screws were not able to fit through the holes as drilled, but fit perfectly once they were properly threaded. I was quite satisfied when the keel assembly fit nice and snug on the mounting screws along the centre line of the board! At this stage, I am considering making some right angle squares since the ones I have are either too large or too small for the scale of the cross-section. I made some right angle squares from 1/8" acrylic sheet a while ago and these might serve - but I have to find them first!! If your workshop is like mine then you know what a challenge this can be!
 
I also cut out the various parts that make up the framing square that slides over the keel assembly to ensure verticality of the frames - but I've yet to complete this stage....once this is done I'll be moving on to the framing, which is both exciting and a little nerve-wracking...Going to spend some time studying the information provided by Admiralty models, sort out the frame components and boxwood sheets appropriately and set up for constructing the frames....
 
Enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton
 

So over lunch today I walked up to the local hardware store (located dangerously close to my house) and picked up a tap & die set to resolve the mounting question asked above - thanks again Dave and VTHokiEE! It took about 1 minute to tap the mounting holes I drilled out yesterday and I was very relieved to find that I hadn't drilled the holes out too wide for the 6-32 tap. A small step, but this lightened up a huge area of ignorance for me in terms of this aspect of modelling. Here are some photos, just to liven things up a bit, though they may not be of much intrinsic interest. The second shot is of the tiny puncture made by the awl - hard to get focus on this.....
hamilton

Aha!! My Greyhound had this exact same issue at this exact same location.
 
I did not have the tools and Corel does not supply the resources to make new bullkheads here, so I heavily veneered the outboard edges of these bulkheads during the fairing process to create decent hull lines - this is a MUCH cheaper and equally effective solution to the ones you propose above, and to keep your wife happy, I would strongly recommend it - happy wife, happy life!
 
The following is the post from my build log where I identify this same problem:
 
And here is the solution I came up with - using .6mm strips leftover from a previous build.
 
 
Hope these help - since I built Greyhound as HMS Blandford you can search for the log using that as a search term. I tried to make it quite detailed and it might be helpful as a reference.
hamilton