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texxn5

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Everything posted by texxn5

  1. texxn5
    Also got the pins painted and attached to the pinrails.
  2. texxn5
    And a few more
  3. texxn5
    A couple of more
  4. texxn5
    OK, coppering is finished. I got the starboard side done, then capped the keel, touched up some paint and here it is. Major accomplishment and I like how it turned out.
  5. texxn5
    OK, for those who aren't familiar with this glue, here's a picture...Testor's Green for Metal and Wood...
  6. texxn5
    Thanks Sjors, I could never forget you....
  7. texxn5
    Thanks Mark, getting there
  8. texxn5
    Hi Grant, you're right ..... can't forget Sjors...that would be like being lost at sea without a compass....
  9. texxn5
    OOPS, I almost forgot Sjors as a mentor also.....sorry Sjors....trying to make up here.....
  10. texxn5
    Thanks Adam, I appreciate the kind words.
  11. texxn5
    Thanks Popeye, I think I might leave it alone and let it take a natural color.
  12. texxn5
    Thanks Augie, I'm glad you like it. Your pictures in your early log really helped me. I consider you, Grant and Mark mentors, and I appreciate all your pictures and help and encouragement. One side to go and I can move on to the deck fixtures, buildings, etc.
  13. texxn5
    The start of the starboard side
  14. texxn5
    Updates have been slow the last few days. The coppering is tedious and I wanted it to look as good as I could do it. It was definitely a learning experience...trial and error emphasis on the error. I do realize that it is one of the most important visual details on the hull so it has to look good. This is not perfect, but I am satisfied with it. I found I had to use Testor's Green glue for Wood & Metal models. I'll include a picture with my next series. By putting this on the hull it prevented the lift caused by finger oil or wood imperfections and down right buggering it up with clumsy fingers which I am notorious for. The glue stopped all of that. So with further adoo, here is the port side, which now leaves the starboard side tomorrow.
  15. texxn5
    Hi Keith, where ya been? Yes miss a week or two and I'm still progressing...I think. The old 409 was fun. Had 2 AFB's also. My next car (which I still have) is a 67 Plymouth GTX which I just finished a complete Concours restoration on. Got 2 Edelbrock AFB's on it with a bad cam. I might start showing it. (1 of 2,000 made by Chrysler that year). There was a Sopwith on eBay about a week ago that went for $125. Here's the toys....no picture of the Bubble Top 62 in the computer. I have some old black and white's but haven't ever scanned them into the computer.
  16. texxn5
    Thanks Aldo, welcome aboard.
  17. texxn5
    Augie, my 62 was that Champagne Bronze color. Big tank of a car, but fast.
  18. texxn5
    Well, I tried to stay out of this one, but, just couldn't stand it any more.....we can get Moosehead all the way down here in Houston....Kroger sells it. I owned a bar in Costa Rica, and I can buy Imperial (National Beer of Costa Rica) here at Kroger's cheaper than I could buy it wholesale in Costa Rica......go figure!
  19. texxn5
    By the way Augie, when I got my first car at (13), my dad gave me a choice of a '57 Chevy 283 2 door hard top or a '62 Chevy Belaire 2 door bubbletop, 409 2-4's, 4 speed, I chose the 62.....either car would have been incredible, but the 409 was a fine choice.....got lucky wish I still had it....they are now rare antiques....I wonder if that makes us rare antiques.....don't know about rare, but definitely an antique! the Buick's were lot's of chrome! Memory lane again
  20. texxn5
    Hi Augie, thanks man. I'm trying to decide if I want it to tarnish over time, or to spray it with a clear coat. I guess I haven't seen enough of the natural aging finish yet. I do like shiny copper though, kinda like shiny brass or better yet gold! This is open for interprettion by anyone wishing to chime in. Got a ways to go yet before I have to make that decision. I do like good crisp finishes though. Meanwhile Augie, I've the sunglasses on it gets bright where I'm working on it.
  21. texxn5
    For reference, many of these strips have been 3" strips and I've started marking the center of the brick pattern, prior to printing the rivets on the plates. This is an attempt to maintain a brick pattern, and keep these plates not only overlapping properly, but to line up properly. The plates vary a little in size, but seem to be getting the correct (or close to it) pattern.
  22. texxn5
    The first 4 rows of plates are on. Working with the thin foil is tricky as is spacing. Trying very hard to maintain a brick pattern and it also gets tricky. It' better as you move away from the keel. The joint where the keel and the hull planking come together is difficult in that there is also a bend in the plateto follow the hull lines. With some work I think it is acceptable....at least I hope so. Not perfect but not bad.
  23. texxn5
    Ran the port side keel line first. Will cap it later I think.
  24. texxn5
    Sealed hull
  25. texxn5
    Started working with the copper. Those of you that are beginning to know me, will understand that I couldn't wait to go ahead and dig in. So I practiced with the pounce wheel making rivets on a 3-3/4" strip of copper. The sheets are to be 3/4" x 5/16". The copper is 1/4", so the overlap should make it just right. So at 3/4", I get 5 plates out of 3-3/4" strips. Well it wasn't too bad. So, checking that the sanding sealer had dried sufficiently I lightly sanded any bumps away and attached the first piece of copper strip on. I thought about 6" strips, however, the 3-3/4" is easier to work with since it is so thin, and has a mind of it's own once the backing is off. I learned quickly to keep my fingers off of it or then it won't stick to the hull and essentially becomes useless. Here's some pictures for anyone interested.

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