Don9of11

Most likely you are dealing with a copy of a copy of a copy and as such nothing is likely parallel or straight. I found the best thing you can do is establish your perpendiculars, the correct length, breadth and depth of your ship and scale your plans to fit as best you can to those parameters. You'll then need to make some assumptions and educated guesses, create you own water lines and diagonals and make the best of it. In the end your plans will be fair and workable.
 
Warning... with CAD there is a danger of wanting make everything supper accurate and super fair. Little deviations here and there can slow your work down to a crawl and drive you mad...lol.

Whether manually drafting or on computer, never completely trust anyone else's draughts! There is always at least some re-fairing required, I've found. That example thlbaultron has posted is not that unusual. A proof diagonal is an excellent way to check fairness.

Theres nothing on the back of the canvas Don, I have already looked, no backing there.
 
Norman

Is there any way to unmount the painting to see if any information is contained on the back of the canvas? Sometimes there is information under the backing.

Is there any way to unmount the painting to see if any information is contained on the back of the canvas? Sometimes there is information under the backing.

Purchased this oil painting a few months back of a sailing ship in full sail -its oil on canvas, Reeves branded canvas on what looks to be very professionally mounted in a frame all brass screws, my thoughts maybe 50's/60's painting. The artist has signed the picture - H Rowen. The ship is flying the Red Duster so shes British. I have no other details. At first I thought maybe the Cutty Sark but shes not carrying enough canvas, any thoughts guys on her name?
 
Oh I paid the huge sum of £12 a bargin I thought from a local antique centre a few weekends back, its in very good condition with just one small fleck of missing paint. It was complete with a very tidy professional frame as well.
 
Thanks
 
Norman

I thought this might be of interest to all of you following this post
 
https://www.onshape.com/cad-blog/onshape-goes-to-sea

Since my first post a little over a month ago, I have been working with Onshape. I created a Free account and I have been steadily learning how to use the program. Anyone with 3D modeling experience should have no difficulty working with this program. There is absolutely no software to download and none of the programs functionality is withheld. I did have to purchase a new graphics card as my old ATI Radeon card did not support webgl. I spent about $60 on a new card. I can pretty much do any task I want on my PC, stream video or music and the modeling is not in anyway hampered by my multi-tasking. I'm have a dual core pentium processor and it handles things very nicely. I can only imagine what the new i3 and i5 chips can do.
 
Anyway, I have spent the last two weeks remodeling my 74 gun ship in Onshape and I have modeled some other interesting parts. The starship Enterprise was an assembly of a SW model I had created several years ago.
 
This is really exciting technology be cause a doing a group build or in this case a group design is a real possibility. Several people can be working on the same part at the same time and all the changes are saved. That's another nice thing about onShape, you never have to save your work, it saves it for you. You can also go back and review every change you ever made or review your entire modeling process. 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Chuck, these carvings look very thin. What precautions did you take to keep from breaking them?

Chuck, these carvings look very thin. What precautions did you take to keep from breaking them?

Chuck, these carvings look very thin. What precautions did you take to keep from breaking them?

Thank you Jason.
I would have responded earlier but I threw my back out Friday morning and this is the first I could sit at the computer.
It is aching a bit so I going to be gone a bit yet.

Sunday 16 Oct 2016
 
Some minor progress.  This is much harder than it seems.  I hope to be better at framing soon.
 

Sunday 9 Oct 2016
 
I did manage to steal a few hours for myself (between peeling potatoes and washing dishes... and eating... Happy Thanksgiving to all fellow Canuks out there) to complete the last group of three pairs of short cant frames.
 
There were three scrapped pieces and a fourth that flew away from me from the sanding belt.  I searched for it for about 10 minutes and finally gave up and cut out a new piece. As I turned around to go back to the other end of the room I saw it in the chippings on the floor around the planer.  I made a new piece and as it was better I threw the old one out.
 
I have a magnifying glass attached to my scroll saw table to help me focus on my cuts. I find it helps tremendously as I also have early stages of macular degeneration in my left eye and it plays havoc with lines. 
 
Here are some photos.  Going to try frame 28 today.  It is a long one with one bevelled joint.

Saturday 08 OCT 2016
 
It took me three tries but the third was the charm.
The secret seems to be measure 50 times and cut minuscule slices and sand microscopic bits off until it fits.
 

 
Following that rule of thumb the others worked out fine!
 

 
Had to stop after three sets as my upper back, between my shoulder blades is getting sore.  It all relates to my neck fusion.  I'll be good to go again after a short bit of rest.

Sunday 25 Sep 2016
 
Suffered a minor heart attack today.... not really... but I was transferring measurements from my prints and they were all out by a foot!
I nearly died.
 
Then I realised I was reading the 1:64 scales incorrectly.
After 40+ years experience I was reading scales incorrectly.
What a dumb a$$ !
 
Then I remembered my stern post was short and thought HOLY CRAP I did it back then too.
Double checked and I hadn't.  That one was wrong.
 
I must be tired
 
I managed to attach the upper most wing transom and the one just below it.
I had to make both twice before it was right.
I also didn't use any fancy supports as they were more of a hindrance to my access than any help.
I put a tick mark on tape affixed to my squares to get the height correctly
(Not show is the cardboard card used to set the outboard height of the slanted transoms)
 
The gap between the upper most wing transom and the next lower is about the thickness of my paper towels so that is what I used to maintain the gap.

October 02 2016
 
I managed to glue all the transom pieces to the stern post this weekend.
 
Notching the transom pieces to slide over the post was so tight that the glue was scraped off when sliding them together so I file a couple grooves on the sides of the transom piece notches to retain some glue when assembled.
 
Doesn't look half bad and starting to look like a ship.   
 
I'l have to add a few more bolts to the stern post.

Your work is awesome! To have completed what you have done so far is amazing. Are you switching CAD programs or staying with Sketchup? I wouldn't worry too much about having to start over, it's the mark of a good shipwright and what you have learned so far will aid you in your new efforts.

19 AUG 2016
 
Completed the shaping of the stem assembly.
Chiselled in along the lower/middle/upper stem post to get the relief depth then sanded to shape.
Then did the same to the knee of the head and extension as it is narrower yet again.
Did a little damage on the edge of the filler pieces with the last step.
A little cleanup to be done on her... a few passes with finer grade paper and a tack cloth.
 



 
I have yet to add the cutwater strip to the stem assembly and the last pieces of the rising wood on top of the keel.
Then I will start building at the stern, adding the transom pieces.

SEP 17 2016
 
Yesterday was a good day to work in the shop, raining all day with thunder later in the afternoon.
 
I worked on finishing the installation of the brackets and horseshoes.
First I had to make the bolts.
 
I followed the method posted elsewhere on the forum
(  Making nail s with rounded nail heads
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11204-tiny-fake-nailsnail-heads/?hl=%2Bbolt+%2Bhead#entry341045 )
 
I managed to acquire a short length of multi strand wire with strands measuring 0.031" diameter (1.98" to scale).
The snipping created a burr that I tried to file off but what was left tended to help hold it in place.
The rolled head was very tiny and barely noticeable but it was round and for the scale looked very good.
I needed 26 bolts but made 30.
 
I cleaned everything in white vinegar, rinsed in water and dried with a paper towel.
Separated everything in clearly marked containers so I wouldn't try to put the port bracket on the starboard side (as the relief are cut to match the bracket).
 
Wearing latex gloves the brackets and horseshoes were glued in place using Gorilla Glue (10 seconds time to work).
Getting the bolts assembled with tweezers and my smallest hammer was a real treat.
I mixed up a weaker batch of blackening agent and used a cotton swab to apply.
Then, of course, disaster.
Some glue must have seeped around an edge or through a bolt hole and the blackening was not over the whole assembly.
 
I then spent considerable time re-cleaning in place and re blackening.
The final outcome is not what I'd hoped for but it is not completely terrible (or am I trying to convince myself?).
 
I've thought (all night) of removing them but any second item will not fit perfectly into the existing recesses and bolt holes will not align.
 
I am going to have to stare at it a bit and decide if I can live with this, my second attempt at blackening.

Cut the recesses for the brackets and horseshoes.
 
The brackets set just above the staples left a sliver of wood at the top.
I pinned these but still had to hold them down with my thumb to scribe along the edge with a scalpel.
I then removed the bracket and followed the cut line with a carving knife to get it deeper.
I used a mini chisel to remove the material and needed to wear my magnifying headpiece to see what I was doing otherwise it would have been much worse.
My eyesight is not what is used to be and is just getting worse.
 

 

 
I couldn't pin the horseshoe as the pins would have been in the way of scribing and holding with my thumb... ended up tracing the outline with a pencil and then scribing with the scalpel and knife just inside the line as best as I could.  I also had to remove the fore most staple as it would have been under the horseshoe.  I will reinstall these after they get shortened a wee bit.
I am happy with the outcome.
 

 

 
I marked the pockets and the back side of each piece with coloured markers so I know which goes where as they are not identical... just like the real build would have been.
I may install these and blacken them in place using a much weaker solution than the first time I tried with the staples.

Sept 10 2016
 
Drilled and glued fishing line into the aft face of the Outer Stern Post, top face of the Gammon Piece and Extension, and forward face of the Stem Post assembly to simulate bolts.  Snapped two drill bits in the process... one is still in there.  I will cut flush and sand once the glue has time to dry.
 
There are some references to some bolting but seems to always be side views so I used my common sense (and artistic modelling license) to lay them out.  I'm using yellow wood glue and I've roughened the line with sand paper to allow the glue to grip and hold.
 
Next is the horse shoes and knee plates.

Sept 05 2016
 
Completed sanding, relief cutting the stem and stern... and dry fitting the wing transom (to figure out how I might do it).
 
I need to add bolts to the stem post assembly and then add the horseshoe at the bow and the L (angle) bracket (knee plate) at the stern.  Attempted to make these from wire (flattening and filing) but this didn't work very well for me.
I've ordered some gauge plate to use instead and expect it to arrive this week.... so the transom pieces should go up permanently next weekend.

I just found this build, very impressed with the care and quality of your work Karl.

I just found this build, very impressed with the care and quality of your work Karl.